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Author Previous Topic: My HO scale Nativity scene. Topic Next Topic: Doodling after breakfast
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dDaudio
New Hire



Posted - 06/17/2008 :  2:05:13 PM  Show Profile  Visit dDaudio's Homepage  Reply with Quote
On ACC application:

I use a dissecting needle from Perfect, with the tip blunted with a file. And a glass slide to stage the ACC.

Apply a drop of ACC to the slide, pick up a little with the dissecting needle, and apply it to the model parts.

If you use a good quality, fast and thin ACC ( like Vigor CE-480QO, 10-20 sec.) on well mating surfaces, the glue joint will be invisible.

After a while the dried glue builds up on the slide, but can be popped off easily by sliding a #11 blade between the glass and glue for a new clean surface. I use the edge of a small piece of paper towel to soak up excess ACC.

I have been using this method on plastic, brass, and soft metal combo models for years with excellent results.


Dave
http://daveayers.com
http://brassbackshop.com

Edited by - dDaudio on 06/17/2008 2:10:32 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 6 Go to Top of Page

Bob Hunt
New Hire

Posted - 06/27/2008 :  3:46:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Maybe its just too obvious that no one has mentioned it, but from the pictures I have seen herein [no pictures from me yet] lots of folks are using those "self-healing" cutting boards found in sewing shops. I model in both wood and styrene when scratchbuilding and I originally got the idea from Bob Hundman's articles in the now-defunct Mainline Modeler and I use it with an inexpensive T-square to line things up. Those, together with an old PFM HO gauge vernier caliper make accuracy a live option for me. Now for my question: Who here models in predominately styrene and uses those "Hundman" techniques? I know Mr Nehrich was/is a proponelnt of those methods for some exquisite modling in both HO and N scale.

Bob Hunt
Shadow Valley Short Line

Country: USA | Posts: 15 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 06/27/2008 :  5:48:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob,

I'm not familiar with the 'Hundman' techniques, but I have used the 'etch and snap' techniques that John Nehrich wrote about to make window and door openings in structures. It is a great technique, especially if you are laminating a 'brick' surface over the styrene sub-wall.

I used it on this project: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8143&whichpage=1&SearchTerms=Welding



Country: USA | Posts: 31496 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/27/2008 :  6:13:28 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I, for one, was on the major bummer list when MainMine Modeler stopped printing. I used to take the magazine just for the styrene tips and techniques which Bob (and others) used to describe in the building articles. I really enjoyed the scratch building aspect always presented. I really, really miss the magazine!! And this is comming from someone who has only done narrow guage for some 35 years. So, I guess that even though I use mainly wood, I am also comfortable with styrene.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7212 Go to Top of Page

Bob Hunt
New Hire

Posted - 06/27/2008 :  7:06:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
KP: Add me to the major bummer list when suddenly Mainline Modeler [July, 2006?] stopped printing with little to no warning. I took MM for exactly the same reason you did. I didn't subscribe but made that my justification for a monthly trek to my LHS. They were the ones who told me. I loved the every expanding list of methods for getting styrene to look like wood. My eyebrows would go up and I would find myself murmuring, "Oh, so that's the way you do that!!" I even called MM once with a question and had a nice conversation with Robert L. Wonder what happened. Anyway, the T-square, precision measurements, and extremely sharp blades seem to be the secret. I go back and re-read lots of those articles. I really need to get to that stock of Evergreen products I have on hand. Bob

Bob Hunt
Shadow Valley Short Line

Country: USA | Posts: 15 Go to Top of Page

belg
Fireman



Posted - 06/27/2008 :  9:33:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Guys, I don't do much modeling with styrene but have just gotten my feet wet with a couple of barn doors, which I'm pretty happy with now that I have just about finished coloring them. I would like to expand on this did you guys accumulate any of these articles? I like to keep all these kinds of things in a looseleaf notebook and wonder if thats something you do as well. Thanks Pat


Country: USA | Posts: 4503 Go to Top of Page

Bob Hunt
New Hire

Posted - 06/27/2008 :  10:52:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Pat: I don't keep a loose leaf notebook but at one point I developed a directory of all the MM articles. Unfortunatley, I saved that on those old 5-1/4" floppies for an Apple II e. How's that for foresight?! If anybody knows how to convert old Apple 5-1/4' floppies to modern-day files, lemmee know. I think it would involve an old Apple standalone drive and some miraculous software for the conversion. What's really scary is that I still have those old floppies. Bob

Bob Hunt
Shadow Valley Short Line

Country: USA | Posts: 15 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/23/2008 :  8:20:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Pat, Sorry for the delay in responding to you. I don't have all that many Mainline Modeler magazines, and am always watching for them. You would really have to read about 3-4 magazines to get a 'feel' for Bob's style. Each issue seemed to have something new or different in the way the build was approached, and some small technique would be explained. I guess my best suggestion is to try to obtain a few old issues from your LHS or see if some friends can loan you a copy or two. If you can run down an index, you may be able to get copies of some of the articles from your library. As an alternative, if you would like, you can PM me your address and I'll make copies of a couple of articles for you to review.

As for coloring styrene, the best article/tutorial (IMHO) which I have seen was in the Short Line and Narrow Gauge Gazette, Painting & Weathering Styrene Freight Cars by Keith Brown on page 67 in the July/Aug '82 issue. If you can, get a color copy of the article if you do not have or are unable to locate a back issue of the Gazette. I did a scratch HOn3 CS gon using this painting technique, and fooled several folks in that the car was not wood. And that was my first attempt at the technique.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 07/23/2008 8:23:48 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7212 Go to Top of Page

UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 08/26/2008 :  9:42:51 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Bob, I dont think there would be any conversion needed as the files would be in a standard format, as long as you have the program or a compatable one, as you say all you would need to do is hook up a 5 1/4 drive to a mac and copy the files to the hard drive, then either open them or save to a CD, Do we still have "Apple Centers" ???? or maybe a Kinko's could do it.
I would imagine, but could be wrong, that even a 'pc' with a 5 1/4 could at least pull the files from the disk and copy them to a CD, even if it couldnt 'understand' the apple lingo, it is after all just a bunch of 1's and 0's.

Karl.A



Country: USA | Posts: 6276 Go to Top of Page

rtbaron
Crew Chief

Posted - 08/27/2008 :  06:51:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The most important lesson I have learned is that you WRITE EVERYTHING DOWN.


Country: USA | Posts: 634 Go to Top of Page

rtbaron
Crew Chief

Posted - 08/27/2008 :  06:53:25 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The most important lesson I have learned is that you WRITE EVERYTHING DOWN. Dont rely on your
memory to recall what stain or paint you used on a particular segment of the building process.
This is especially true when doint test pieces of wall or stain.



Country: USA | Posts: 634 Go to Top of Page

belg
Fireman



Posted - 08/27/2008 :  7:01:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
KP, thanks for the info on the coloring I did not see it till this new info was just added. Pat


Country: USA | Posts: 4503 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 10/04/2008 :  10:35:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A week ago Friday or so, in the crew lounge, I posted this picture of a use for hockey pucks. I thought I'd post it here for all to see if you might want it for yourself.
I got myself some hockey pucks and drilled out the center with a fostner drill bit, they make good holders for my Floquil paints, paint cleaners, paint thinners and also make good glue bottle holders. They hold film canisters both metal and plastic types and the green can with lid that I got at a dollar store, like four in a package. These hockey pucks keep things from spilling over after a few.




Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 2000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 17703 Go to Top of Page

CieloVistaRy
Fireman



Posted - 11/09/2008 :  11:14:32 AM  Show Profile  Send CieloVistaRy an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Louis,

I think Larry will take umbrage over this!

Arthur


Arthur

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40645

Country: USA | Posts: 5831 Go to Top of Page

BigLars
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/09/2008 :  11:38:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

How did I miss this one. Brand new hockey pucks destroyed without even being fired in anger.
I have made lots of training aids out of used pucks, maybe I will try one of these but with a well worn puck. The really good worn ones look like the dog chewed them up.
Larry


My current build:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50375

Country: USA | Posts: 11419 Go to Top of Page
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