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jknapp
Fireman

Posted - 01/16/2007 :  08:09:36 AM  Show Profile  Visit jknapp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks.....

OUCH!! In looking again at the photos I posted last night, they're of horrible quality!! Sorry, photography is not my strong suit.



Country: USA | Posts: 2550 Go to Top of Page

Bigdon
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/16/2007 :  09:12:56 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The pics are fine. What were the steps required to yield the great rust effect on the corrugated panels? I would love to be able to get the same look that you've achieved in this case. Very nice work.

Don



Country: Canada | Posts: 290 Go to Top of Page

essodee
Fireman



Posted - 01/16/2007 :  11:26:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John,

Very good rust and beat signs on the corrugated. It really looks good in place supporting the overhang. Great job so far.

Stevie O'D



Country: USA | Posts: 1561 Go to Top of Page

jknapp
Fireman

Posted - 01/16/2007 :  5:38:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit jknapp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks Stevie, thanks Don....it's appreciated.


quote:
Bigdon Posted - 01/16/2007 : 09:12:56 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The pics are fine. What were the steps required to yield the great rust effect on the corrugated panels? I would love to be able to get the same look that you've achieved in this case. Very nice work.

Don


Don....I, for the most part, followed George's directions in the kit. This is how it was done:

1. Prep the corrugated panels by first "priming" them with Polly Scale D&H Gray. But any gray of that shade will work.
2. Once dry, put in the nail holes with your pounce tool and then glue 'em where ever you plan on putting them.


Here's a pic of the panels after those two stages:



3. After that, tone it down with a brushing of alcohol and ink stain.
4. Next, in my case, I scraped off two chalk colors: a Burnt Umber color and a Raw Sienna color. George uses the same colors but he uses "paint pigments" instead of chalks.
5. He advises to mix up six teaspoons of plain water; one drop of dishwashing detergent and one teaspoon of Elmer's White Glue. This will serve as the medium to hold the chalk colors.
6. When you have those things set, simply start by dipping your paint brush into the glue/water mixture and then into the Burnt Umber chalk. Start brushing it onto the panels. Go back and forth between the Burnt Umber and the Raw Sienna colors (..and the glue/water mixture). Obviously you kinda just go with what is pleasing to you.
7. Sometimes you can go with more of the chalk powder and less of the glue/water mixture. This will give it more of that "gritty" textured look.
8. Let it dry. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Once dry, you can apply a wash of the alcohol and ink mixture to tone it down. That's what George's directions say, but I didn't do that.
9. After that's done, you can add the signs/posters, etc. and that's about it!


I took some better pictures this afternoon of the finished rusted corrugated panels (...at least I think the pictures are better!). Here they are:





By the way, this technique is described and shown by George on Allen Keller's 'Great Model Railroads' video/DVD of the F&SM. It's on Volume 39.

Thanks again for the words of encouragement.



Country: USA | Posts: 2550 Go to Top of Page

postalkarl
Fireman



Posted - 01/16/2007 :  6:13:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi John:

What the heck are you doing up there I thought you'd be done by now. Chop Chop Lets go I want more photos.

Karl S.



Country: | Posts: 6934 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/16/2007 :  6:52:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John, it's looking good. As an alternative to George's water/detergent/Elme's recipe, cheap hairspray (from a pump-type sprayer) works well as an adhesive for applying chalk powder (and probably paint pigments as well). I spray a bit in a plastic bottle cap and use either a small brush or one of those sponge-type makeup applicators to apply the "adhesive" and chalks. I've found that it's sometimes better to dab the color on rather than brushing it on. It really depends, though, on what I'm weathering.




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

onl26
Fireman

Posted - 01/16/2007 :  6:59:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John
The corrugated looks awesome and the signs are just right, really nice job.
Kevin



Country: USA | Posts: 1283 Go to Top of Page

railmus
Fireman



Posted - 01/16/2007 :  7:34:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit railmus's Homepage  Reply with Quote
John:
Especially wonderful work on the corrugated metal.
Thanks for taking the time to add the technique to your post!



Country: Canada | Posts: 1982 Go to Top of Page

mikethetrainman
Fireman



Posted - 01/16/2007 :  11:33:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John the finished sway brace looks great. Great job on the weathering of the metal siding. That's one of the things I have alway like about George's kits is that the instructions are like going to a mini scratch-building clinic.

Mike Mace
Northern Division of the Santa Fe

Country: USA | Posts: 1714 Go to Top of Page

jknapp
Fireman

Posted - 01/17/2007 :  09:04:44 AM  Show Profile  Visit jknapp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks for all the nice comments! MikeC...I'll have to try the hair spray alternative. Thanks for the tip.


quote:
John the finished sway brace looks great. Great job on the weathering of the metal siding. That's one of the things I have alway like about George's kits is that the instructions are like going to a mini scratch-building clinic.


Michael D. Mace
Northern Division of the Santa Fe
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-ndsf


Michael....yeah, I agree. George's instructions are excellent. If I can do it anyone can!! He just needs to get rid of the "poster style" instruction sheet. But that probably won't happen....he appears set in his ways.



Country: USA | Posts: 2550 Go to Top of Page

RichBeau
Fireman



Posted - 01/17/2007 :  09:12:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Excellent job John!

quote:
George's instructions are excellent. If I can do it anyone can!!

This is why everyone says to get one of these kits. It's a great course in structure building, not just kits. What you learn from George can be applied in all of your work.

--Rich B.



Country: USA | Posts: 2715 Go to Top of Page

Tabooma County Rwy
Fireman



Posted - 01/17/2007 :  09:27:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Most excellent, John!


Country: USA | Posts: 4630 Go to Top of Page

jknapp
Fireman

Posted - 01/17/2007 :  5:32:10 PM  Show Profile  Visit jknapp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks Al & Rich.

I'm gonna try to get the cupola done tonight. I don't forsee that taking too long. After that, it's on to the water tank which, from what I recall reading in past posts in this thread, it was kind of a challenge? We'll see how it goes....



Country: USA | Posts: 2550 Go to Top of Page

jknapp
Fireman

Posted - 01/18/2007 :  07:57:28 AM  Show Profile  Visit jknapp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Man, was I wrong about that cupola!! That thing, for some reason, took me a while to complete. It's basically done, I just need to attach it to the main building. Once I do that, hopefully I'll snap some update pictures tonight.


Country: USA | Posts: 2550 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/18/2007 :  09:13:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John,

Very nice work, indeed!


Bruce

Country: USA | Posts: 31813 Go to Top of Page
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