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Dutchman
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Posted - 09/19/2004 : 3:13:48 PM
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I have been working on Schmiege's Little Dutch Store kit from J.L. Innovative.

Unlike some of the previous kits from this company, this kit (and I assume all future kits) are laser cut. It comes with two packages of white metal detail castings as well.
The only problem that I have found so far is with some of the laser cut roof and porch supports, which curled and warped severely when painted with polyscale paint. Here is a picture of what I mean.


As you can see, these parts were cut with the grain running across the vertical supports instead of lengthwise with those supports. This led to the warping, and made them very fragile. I decided to make my own with stipwood.
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Bruce |
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MikeC
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Posted - 09/19/2004 : 3:17:26 PM
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Now, that's what I call warped! 
I think you made a good decision to make your own, Bruce.
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Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm a busy man. I have a railroad to run.
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Bbags
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Posted - 09/19/2004 : 3:24:43 PM
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Thanks Bruce for starting this thread. I agree that stripwood is the way to go. One of my biggest gripes with laser cut structures is that on many parts the grain in going in the wrong direction and also it is quite obvious even after painting. Again thanks for starting this thread since it will keep me occupied until I can get back to modeling in a serious way.
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 John Bagley Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia. |
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Dutchman
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Posted - 09/19/2004 : 3:46:07 PM
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I think that this proves that just because something can be lasercut doesn't mean that it should be lasercut. Anyone building a kit by J.L. Innovative should be able to handle making those supports out of stripwood. Here are my renditions (bottom) and the originals (top).

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Bruce |
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Marken
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 09/19/2004 : 7:59:15 PM
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That is some serious warpage Bruce. I wonder how many complaints, if any, they have had.
Like you said, some things should be left to stripwood.
BTW, good job on those supports
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postalkarl
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Posted - 09/19/2004 : 8:49:41 PM
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Bruce:
Thats why I don't use water based paints. I very much dislike them for a lot of reasons. It causes warpage and I just can not get the same results. Call me old fashioned but I very much like solvent based paints and will continue to use them. I always said why fix it if it isn't broken. Well thats my 2 cents worth.
Karl S
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TrevorCreek
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Posted - 09/20/2004 : 07:34:17 AM
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Bruce,
The problem really lies with the manufacturer. Those parts should not have been cut from basswood. It should have been made from plywood if it was to be laser cut. You did a great job in replicating the parts using stripwood.
Frank B
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Rick
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Posted - 09/20/2004 : 08:25:43 AM
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Bruce, I agree with Frank, you did a great job of recreating the warped parts.
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___________________________________ All the things that others want for me... Can't buy what I want because it's free... |
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Climax1880
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Posted - 09/20/2004 : 08:52:37 AM
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This looks like another good one Bruce. Can't wait to see some more photos and descriptions so that I can plagerize the hell out of it .
JR
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Dutchman
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Posted - 09/20/2004 : 7:29:35 PM
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At this point, everything is painted, the windows and doors are installed, and the signs are glued on.

But those windows were just crying out for some store goods behing them. So, even though the front roof will probably diminish the future view, I decided to build some display cases a put some cases of fresh fruits and vegetables out in view.

BTW, seeing this closeup photo, reminds me of something for anyone building this kit. Those egg and meat signs are laser etched on some acetate. You simply rub paint into the etching, cut them out, and glue them to the acetate windows. What the closeup points out is that you should cut them to fit the full lower window pane, or the edges will be visible in closeup photography. (It is not obvious when looking at them in person.) 
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Bruce |
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TrevorCreek
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Posted - 09/20/2004 : 8:07:11 PM
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Bruce,
Looking good. BTW, is the etching on the front or the rear of the acetate? I think that the back would be the best since you would not see the etching and would only see the paint. It would look like it was painted on.
Frank B
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Dutchman
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Posted - 09/21/2004 : 07:30:26 AM
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quote: Originally posted by TrevorCreek
Bruce,
Looking good. BTW, is the etching on the front or the rear of the acetate? I think that the back would be the best since you would not see the etching and would only see the paint. It would look like it was painted on.
Frank B
Frank, they give you a small piece of acetate with the sign etched into the front. They want you to cut them out and glue them to the back of the acetate that you have used for the windows. (I used the Testors canopy glue for that.)
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Bruce |
Edited by - Dutchman on 09/21/2004 07:32:15 AM |
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TomPM
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Gerry
Engine Wiper
 
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Posted - 09/21/2004 : 10:27:30 AM
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This is pretty interesting, since I'm friends with the guy (David Proell) who owns J.L. Innovative. He just got a laser cutter about 6 months ago, and all his kits (future and previous) will be laser cut in the future. I don' t know if he's aware of this problem or not.
I'm forwarding this topic to him and I'll post any replies from him.
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Gerry (MMR #346)
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MikeC
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Posted - 09/21/2004 : 10:41:41 AM
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It's looking good, Bruce! I really like the idea of the laser-etched acetate. That's a very nice touch. I wonder if anything like that is available separately for scratchbuilders. Maybe I'll put a bug in Rusty's ear. He's always looking for new product ideas to add to his laser line. 
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Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm a busy man. I have a railroad to run.
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Rusty Stumps
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Posted - 09/21/2004 : 2:42:06 PM
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Another dang bug in my ear! Wap, wap, wap, there that got it out. Strange it sort of looks like an Ozark Bug to me. Hmmm.
Fellas, the problem is finding the right plastic that will laser cut properly. I've tried various kinds with mixed results. Unfortunately they all act differently from the heat of the laser. The laser isn't a cutter but a torch. That's an actual flame at the focus point and it burns the material being cut. 
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Walt
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