Railroad Line Forums - Weather or not: Discussion, Tips, Techniques
Railroad Line Forums
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register
Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 0 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 116 ]  [ Total: 116 ]  [ Newest Member: Bigbandito ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 Mike Chambers' Craftsman's Corner
 Weather or not: Discussion, Tips, Techniques
Previous Page | Next Page
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: Quick Tip #6 and #7 Topic Next Topic: Final pics of FSM JS #18 Westside Auto
Page: of 26

belg
Fireman



Posted - 09/12/2004 :  1:17:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mic I would also like to welcome you aboard and say that the technique you have shown is very interesting for those of us not lucky enough to still have diosol is there a substitute? And is there anywhere in particular I could see some more of your work on line? Thanks Pat


Country: USA | Posts: 4503 Go to Top of Page

jkristia
Engine Wiper

Premium Member

Posted - 09/12/2004 :  7:32:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by terry hansley



Manual Entry A49W207

COLORANT-02 32 64 128
W1 White-- 20 - -
B1-Black-- 16 - -
Y3 Deep Gold 11 - -
Y1-Yellow- 2 - -




I'm sorry, but I don't really understand how this formular works, what is W1, B1, and what are the numbers that follows?

Thanks
Jesper



Country: USA | Posts: 317 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 09/12/2004 :  7:56:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here are some combinations , in varying degrees , of paint/water/paint ( as described earlier ) and dullcoat ( bottle and spray type ) with alcohol .







All of these structures are removable at this point . I have to take them apart to finish the pit that will eventually contain a pool of water , 3 bridges ( one girder as shown , one wood and one stonework )

TERRY



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 09/12/2004 :  7:58:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Beautifully made water tower , Terry , and thanks for the 'secret formula for zee potion '. You've done a fantastic job on that tower .

TERRY



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 09/12/2004 :  8:22:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jkristia

quote:
Originally posted by terry hansley



Manual Entry A49W207

COLORANT-02 32 64 128
W1 White-- 20 - -
B1-Black-- 16 - -
Y3 Deep Gold 11 - -
Y1-Yellow- 2 - -




I'm sorry, but I don't really understand how this formular works, what is W1, B1, and what are the numbers that follows?

Thanks
Jesper


Jesper,
If I remember correctly this is the formula that the Sherwin-Williams paint dealer must use in his computer to make the paint for you.
Therefore they are the amounts of each color to be mixed to produce the driftwood.
Therefore the numbers mean nothing to the modeler.
I also remember that the formula could only be produced accurately if they were done with a computer to mix the paint.
I hope I remember correctly.

P.S. Terry(both) great job with the staining and weathering.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Edited by - Bbags on 09/12/2004 8:25:28 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 13306 Go to Top of Page

belg
Fireman



Posted - 09/12/2004 :  9:04:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John I believe you are correct except for the computer part. I thought it was the amounts needed to make this stain by hand mixing. "Manual Entry A49W207" Forgive me if its my memory that's failed but thats how I remember it.Pat


Country: USA | Posts: 4503 Go to Top of Page

terry hansley
Crew Chief



Posted - 09/12/2004 :  9:06:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John & Jesper

Exactly right John.

The numbers mean nothing to us but everything you need to know at the Sherwin-Williams store.
They also need to know the Base as shown in the picture Pickeled White Oil Stain.

Terry, you amaze me the amount of progress you are making on the layout.It is looking great on a very difficult modeling subject.

On a side note, one of our model railroad club members is putting the finishing touches on a Great Lakes Ore carrier.I`ll post pics when I get them.

Terry H



Country: USA | Posts: 600 Go to Top of Page

Gerry
Engine Wiper

Posted - 09/14/2004 :  10:27:35 AM  Show Profile  Visit Gerry's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by terry hansley

The numbers mean nothing to us but everything you need to know at the Sherwin-Williams store.
They also need to know the Base as shown in the picture Pickeled White Oil Stain.



Ok, so this is the 2nd time in as many years that I've seen this "Driftwood" formula posted, so I ran out at lunch yesterday and had Sherwin-Williams build me a quart (about $10).

Now... I tried it last night on some stripwood and it was thick enough that it "painted" the wood gray/beige. Not what I expected.

How do you use it? Thin it down first? Drybrush it on?


Gerry (MMR #346)

Country: USA | Posts: 264 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 09/14/2004 :  10:30:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is a link to a past discussion on bleaching wood:

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6555




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 09/14/2004 :  11:07:02 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Gerry

quote:
Originally posted by terry hansley

The numbers mean nothing to us but everything you need to know at the Sherwin-Williams store.
They also need to know the Base as shown in the picture Pickeled White Oil Stain.



Ok, so this is the 2nd time in as many years that I've seen this "Driftwood" formula posted, so I ran out at lunch yesterday and had Sherwin-Williams build me a quart (about $10).

Now... I tried it last night on some stripwood and it was thick enough that it "painted" the wood gray/beige. Not what I expected.

How do you use it? Thin it down first? Drybrush it on?



Gerry,
From what I remember the paint has to be thinned.
I think it was 50/50 but I hope Terry H reads this as he will remember the ratios.
It should be more of a stain rather than a paint.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13306 Go to Top of Page

lab-dad
Fireman



Posted - 09/14/2004 :  12:03:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit lab-dad's Homepage  Send lab-dad a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
While we're at it does anyone remeber the "trick" of using vinegar to
age and then letting the wood dry on a piece of glass to give a "two sided"
effect for when both sides are to remain visable?
I'll begin work on my engine house soon and need wood that is two different
shades - inside & outside.
What about doing this with the bleach?
Thanks!
-Marty



Country: USA | Posts: 1543 Go to Top of Page

terry hansley
Crew Chief



Posted - 09/14/2004 :  9:47:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Gerry

It is not necessary to thin the stain but you can, with mineral spirits. I usually put on two of the cheap plastic gloves that you get by the package at the paint store. I dip an old rag,in the stain and draw the wood between my thumb and forefinger. This is a wipeing stain, and different wood will absorb differently. You will not be impressed at first and will swear it`s to green. Just continue on to the Ink & Ammonia wash.

I have not heard of the Vinegar or Bleach but am willing to try anything someone comes up with.

Terry H



Country: USA | Posts: 600 Go to Top of Page

Marken
Fireman



Posted - 09/14/2004 :  11:18:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Terry, I noticed you use Bombay India ink. I also have been using it because I could not find any Higgins in my area.

The problem I have been having is it seems to coagulate when mixed with alcohol and my stripwood sometimes comes out with little black spots. Do you have this problem at all with ammonia? I may want to switch to the stinky stuff if you don't.


In memory of Mike Chambers

Country: USA | Posts: 2972 Go to Top of Page

belg
Fireman



Posted - 09/15/2004 :  12:00:45 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sorry John, I stand corrected I guess my memory is not as good as it used to be. Pat


Country: USA | Posts: 4503 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 09/15/2004 :  08:00:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Marty,
When I stain my wood with Micro Mark's "Age It" products, I place the wood on wax paper to dry. I find that one side dries much darker than the other. That might give you the effect that you are looking for.



Country: USA | Posts: 31220 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 26 Previous Topic: Quick Tip #6 and #7 Topic Next Topic: Final pics of FSM JS #18 Westside Auto  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Previous Page | Next Page
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-19 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.48 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000