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 Weather or not: Discussion, Tips, Techniques
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Author Previous Topic: Quick Tip #6 and #7 Topic Next Topic: Final pics of FSM JS #18 Westside Auto
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teejay
Fireman



Posted - 08/02/2004 :  10:40:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That should come in handy when I ( ever ) get to the SW Boiler House . Thanks Mike , I hadn't seen that one before .

TERRY



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

n/a
deleted

Posted - 08/03/2004 :  05:35:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Today Bill Davis, friend and fellow modeler, sent me photos of a rusted ore car that he did using the 2 part rusting solution from Michaels Art Supply (also avail at other sim art/craft stores). Thought they might be of interest, and show a different technique. Photos a can be seen at:

http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/davis_OreCar_end.jpg
http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/davis_OreCar_Top.jpg
http://www.rbadesign.net/TERRAPIN/davis_OreCar_side.jpg

Marc



Country: | Posts: 1147 Go to Top of Page

Will Robinson
Section Hand



Posted - 08/03/2004 :  10:19:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Terry and Mike.
I have saved these techniques, both look great and will come in handy.
Will



Country: Canada | Posts: 71 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 08/08/2004 :  1:55:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It is probable that everyone knows this already , but I'll post it for the record .

We all know that weathering stripwood with acrylics will cause warpage so many of us use Floquil , suitably thinned , to darken and age the wood .
I simply use my dirty thinner from cleaning brushes . The crud from cleaning many brushes settles to the bottom of the bottle while the thinner on top is cloudy .I don't shake up the bottle when weathering , I dip the brush periodically into the muck on the bottom and brush it on for a while . Then I go back to the cloudy stuff on top .
This produces an uneven weathering pattern such as on the retaining wall I'm building .



The thinner/cleaner bottle is about ten years old and has never been emptied or cleaned .It's cheap , easy and produces pretty good results . I didn't rough up the wood surfaces for this photo , I simply wanted to illustrate the weathering .
The wall boards will be further treated from here , but the dirty thinner provides a good basis.

TERRY



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

n/a
deleted

Posted - 08/09/2004 :  04:49:16 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Terry,

I too us this method, but with a variation in that I first do an alc & shoe dye wash, let it dry,...then I use Nash & Greenbergs method from an old NG&SLG ........ before dabbing or washing on the dity Diosol, I use my fingers to sprinkle/layer some very finely sifted dirt over areas of the wood. I then use a blow-dryer to speed up the drying proces [outside...so that my head doesn't feel like fizzy gingerale, and the wife doesn't complain ;-) ]. When this is dry I use a brush to lightly dust off some of the coarser dirt....leaving a dusty and dirt stained finish on the boards.

I do this same method on black construction paper to simulate scale tar paper.

Marc



Country: | Posts: 1147 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/09/2004 :  09:39:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Another (Nash & Greenberg?) method I recall reading about many years ago involved mixing the dirt directly into the Diosol bottle to create a solvent-based mud. I never tried it, so I can't speak to its success. If anyone has actually tried it, I'd like to hear about it.




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/09/2004 :  10:15:00 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Moderator's Note: the following information was orginally posted in a separate thread about weathering Campbell's paper shingles. By request, the relevant info from that thread has been copied here.

jkristia:I finally got the Campbell shingles for my little pizzeria and got them installed. Now I'm not sure the best color to paint them and the best way t weather them. I was thinking of giving them a semi drybrush of burned umber and the drybrush with probably other lighter brown colors and finally drybrush with white.

Any other color or weathering suggestions are more than welcome

Thanks
Jesper

Postalkarl:Jesper:

Heres how to color your shingles.

1 Paint them with Floquil earth solvent based. Allow to dry.

2 Apply I&A wash allow to dry.

3 Drybrush with antique white and rust.

4 Thats about it. If done right they will look like a million bucks.

Karl S.

jkristiaThis is how it turned out.
I used Polly Scale earth instead of Floquil, but besides that I followed the step you gave.
For some reason it looks greenish in the picture, while it's more brownish in real life, maybe it's because I did a color cast in photoshop, using the background as 'reference'.

Jesper

The other side.
Not sure if you would actually see rust and lime? (the white stuff) running down a shingle roof like this. Also, not sure if tar is used as seal around chimneys etc. But in this case it is
Jesper


TrevorCreek:Jesper,

As an alternative to painting with earth colored paint, I use a gray base coat. I then hit it with india ink wash, twice. The first time is the ink wash alone. The second time, I dip the brush in some paint pigments. I use burnt umber and raw sienna. This gives a nice finish to the shingles. I then dry brush with antique white, gray, and brown. I then hit it with various shades of chalk ranging from black (very sparingly) to gray and rust colors. I will take a picture tomorrow of the shingles that I just did with this technique.

Frank



Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

n/a
deleted

Posted - 08/09/2004 :  4:22:43 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
For those that don't already belong to enough groups/forums, this is one that I have found interesting.....It's all weathering...all the time.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/weathering/?yguid=88772795

Mike.....I haven't come across the Diosol "Mud" method....but sounds interesting...I'll have to figure out where to try/implement this. (I understand that you can also get a sim effect by mixing Misourri red and white wines together)

Marc



Country: | Posts: 1147 Go to Top of Page

teejay
Fireman



Posted - 08/09/2004 :  5:21:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the tip , Marc , I just joined . The Yahoo format is not a favourite of mine , but i do daily digest with several Yahoo groups .

TERRY



Country: Canada | Posts: 5853 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/09/2004 :  6:38:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by marc_reusser

(I understand that you can also get a sim effect by mixing Misourri red and white wines together)

Marc



Yes, but it's usually several hours after the mixing has taken place.




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

n/a
deleted

Posted - 08/10/2004 :  01:12:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thought these photos of Bob Santos' work might be of interest. His rust technique is as follows "I used Fantastic Finishes Rust kit on the truck, I've had some photos of it".

Marc







Country: | Posts: 1147 Go to Top of Page

belg
Fireman



Posted - 08/10/2004 :  08:01:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Marc all I see are the red X's


Country: USA | Posts: 4503 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/10/2004 :  08:26:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by marc_reusser

Thought these photos of Bob Santos' work might be of interest. His rust technique is as follows "I used Fantastic Finishes Rust kit on the truck, I've had some photos of it".

Marc








Marc,
I also am getting the red X.
I think the reason is that you are trying to link to a picture from a Yahoo Group and Yahoo does not allow you to do this.
The picture must be saved to your hard drive and then posted from there.
I think I found one of the pictures since I am also a member of the group.
Yahoo also requires you to be a member of a group before you can view the files section of that Group.
So hopefully this is one of the pictures you tried to post.





John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13306 Go to Top of Page

n/a
deleted

Posted - 08/10/2004 :  3:33:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sorry for any trouble with the photos....I actually didn't save them on my hard disk/server I merely linked them.....and they work fine when I view the page, so it must be as John mentions, because I'm a member of the group. thanks for reposting the pic John. I have not yet been able to figure out (get it to work) how to post my pictures located on my drive to this forum. I always seem to have to load them to a temp. page/site and then link them....maybe somone can enlighten me on thy apparent mental block [:-Grin]

Marc



Country: | Posts: 1147 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/10/2004 :  4:34:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by marc_reusser

I have not yet been able to figure out (get it to work) how to post my pictures located on my drive to this forum. I always seem to have to load them to a temp. page/site and then link them....maybe somone can enlighten me on thy apparent mental block [:-Grin]

Marc



Here are links to two tutorials on photo posting.

The first link explains how to upload photos from your hard drive to the forum and display them.
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4761

This second link explains how to resize photos (if necessary) to meet the forum's 80kb file size limit:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5383




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page
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