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wesleybeks
Fireman
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Posted - 05/05/2010 : 03:29:58 AM
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Great technique Andy
They look great together.
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Country: South Africa
| Posts: 2829 |
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andykins
Fireman
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Posted - 05/05/2010 : 04:39:39 AM
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thanks guys, in fact rick posted the link to where i saw this technique, have a look, lots of other good ideas for weathering on there
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Country: United Kingdom
| Posts: 4279 |
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Rick
Administrator
Premium Member
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TRAINS1941
Engineer
Premium Member
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 Posted - 05/05/2010 : 08:40:24 AM
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Rick
Good fine.
Jerry
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Jerry
"And in the end, it’s not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 11404 |
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darrylhuffman
Crew Chief
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Posted - 05/06/2010 : 1:27:41 PM
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There has been discussion of the type of container to use when staining wood.
I simply pour my stain, shoe dye, into a bottle of alcohol and shake.
The stripwood is then dunked into the bottle, taken out, turned around, and then the other end dunked into the bottle.
Very simple.
If the wood is long, then I break it in half to do the dunking.
Or, if I am doing a bundle of wood, I just use a soft paint brush dipped into the bottle alcohol/shoe dye and flow the stain onto the bundle.
The stained wood is spread out on newspaper to dry.
I remember when I first did this in 1971 that I got carried away with making a "chart" with small pieces of wood stained with fixed amounts of black and brown mixed together in different portions.
Now I just tape a piece of stained wood on the outside of the bottle.
I have tried all kinds of trays and containers over the years and always go back to this nice basic way of doing things.
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Darryl Huffman
darrylhuffman@yahoo.com
You can follow my blog here:
http://ghosttownmodels.blogspot.com/ |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 722 |
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deemery
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/07/2010 : 3:23:19 PM
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If you buy pre-cooked ribs, they tend to come in a relatively long and skinny plastic container. I have one that's about 14" long (full rack) and about 6" wide. This is pretty handy for soaking long (12" or longer) pieces of stripwood. I've used A-West's "Weather-It" a lot, and I'll put the wood into the rib container (after the ribs have been eaten and the container is thoroughly cleaned :-), add "Weather-It" and let the wood soak for a while. Then I remove the wood, setting it on paper towels to dry and pour the "Weather-It" back into the bottle. I remember reading somewhere you shouldn't return "Weather-It", but I've had no problems doing so. This stuff does lose its potency over time (regardless of whether it's fresh or 'recycled')
dave
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| Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 7649 |
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lab-dad
Fireman
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Posted - 05/07/2010 : 4:01:42 PM
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I use PVC tube with caps on the ends then sawed in half.
I have 2" and a 1". I made mine 25" long to do full lengths.
-Marty
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1543 |
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hon3_rr
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/07/2010 : 4:10:04 PM
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I order stripwood from Kappler in 24 inch lengths. The wood comes in bags which are a little bit larger, and of course longer, then the standard bags which most folks are used to seeing their stripwood in.
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-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to. |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 7124 |
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andykins
Fireman
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Posted - 07/21/2011 : 10:39:00 AM
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found this on youtube, called "weather dippin" by big al mayo, it looks like quite a neat way to speed things up, less if you where doing just one car, but a whole fleet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBOyvS1hBg8&feature=related
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Country: United Kingdom
| Posts: 4279 |
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visman48
Fireman
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Posted - 07/21/2011 : 10:51:01 AM
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I use plastic bags for small wood lengths, cut off and scrap, and a pvc pipe for longer units. As far as drying I take out groups at different times in the staining process to dry. Also you get a very different look if you can dry your wood in the Sun...that bleached look really comes out well, hard to do in the Winter.
Les
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6031 |
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TearAPin
Section Hand
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Posted - 07/24/2011 : 9:20:39 PM
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Does anyone have a preferred brush for applying the Bragdon powders? Brand and spec? I have a couple of old paint brushes but they must be too soft for working the powder in. It is not sticking all that well.
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visman48
Fireman
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Posted - 07/24/2011 : 9:38:18 PM
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For powders that are going to be rubbed or scrubbed in I use stencil brushes, the are short and stiff, get them at Michaels or AC Moore type places...you can get them in different sizes.
Les
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6031 |
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deemery
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/24/2011 : 9:57:59 PM
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Don't use expensive brushes for chalks and weathering powders. The powders are kinda abrasive and they'll wear out brushes pretty quickly. Besides stencil brushes, I have a few well worn out brushes that are short and stiff, and work great for applying chalks.
dave
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| Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 7649 |
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Chuck Doan
Fireman
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Posted - 07/25/2011 : 12:35:22 PM
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Dave is right, they chew up brushes. I look for the packets of cheap small soft paintbrushes at a local art store. Tearapin, the surfaces usully need to be flat, not glossy for best adhesion.
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Edited by - Chuck Doan on 07/25/2011 12:37:10 PM |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1559 |
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TearAPin
Section Hand
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Posted - 07/25/2011 : 9:56:48 PM
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I tried the cheap brush thing but they seem to soft. I cut the bristles down which helped a little but not enough. I am working on a flat non-shiny surface. Some of it sticks but not as much as I would think.
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| Posts: 77 |
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