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 Weather or not: Discussion, Tips, Techniques
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Author Previous Topic: Mike Chambers Wit and Wisdom Topic Next Topic: Idaho Hotel limited edition construction thread
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Crew Chief

Posted - 10/31/2005 :  12:47:17 AM  Show Profile  Send Dreamweaver a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Terry (teejay) had a post on the second page of this thread where he shared a technique for painting a bridge using Krylon paint and water.
This is a great technique. Terry good job, now terry said he could not do a photo progression so I did one.

1st. Spray the parts with the flat black first.

2nd. Immediately spray with water while the black is still wet.

3rd. Then immediately spray the red oxide primer, now this is where some creativity and restraint comes in to play, you don't want to cover the whole part with the red oxide you want to vary it.

now at this point I hit the parts on the side to throw the water off and this seemed to give me a different look than the one terry got I got a more blotchy look that looks more like the original black paint of the bridge has come off.

Now here is some pictures of the finished thing.

This is a extremely easy technique to do and the turn out is awesome. But make sure you have every thing ready to go because this is a really fast job every thing must be done while it's wet.

so to recap black then while wet spray water then while still wet spray red oxide then knock water off and let dry.

Country: USA | Posts: 864 Go to Top of Page

New Hire

Posted - 11/04/2005 :  08:39:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Mike, I really like your method of rusting things and I intend to give it a go, but there are a few things that I need to clear up first. You mention Krylon paints? well here in the UK we do not have access to these so are these paints acrylic or enamel or oil / watercolour????? when you say FAST just how fast must this be with regards VERY fast or ASAP????? Thanks for bearing with me on this Mike. Keep your tracks clean and your stock rolling. All the best Harry C. Wales, UK

Yes Dear, I'll do it Tomorrow

Country: United Kingdom | Posts: 12 Go to Top of Page

Crew Chief

Posted - 11/04/2005 :  08:46:42 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Krylon is brand of spray paint for cars. Halfords would stock an equivalent, if they don't have Krylon.


Country: United Kingdom | Posts: 516 Go to Top of Page

New Hire

Posted - 11/04/2005 :  08:55:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Tony for your help, I see that most of the car spray paints are for metallic or laquer colours but I know where I can still get access to a limited range of Acrylic cols; Harry

Yes Dear, I'll do it Tomorrow

Country: United Kingdom | Posts: 12 Go to Top of Page

Crew Chief

Posted - 11/06/2005 :  06:33:57 AM  Show Profile  Send Dreamweaver a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Harry, Krylon is not a paint for cars, Krylon is a acrylic spray paint for general purpose use, and as far as how fast is fast, I mean you had better not have to walk across the room to get the spray bottle of water or the next color or it will be dry by the time you get there about the time it takes to set the can of paint down and pick up the spray bottle and then the next can of paint is all you have. and credit of this technique has to go to teejay it's his technique I just did the how to on it.

Country: USA | Posts: 864 Go to Top of Page

New Hire

Posted - 11/06/2005 :  12:50:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Many thanks to you Mike, I'm glad that they are acrylic paints as I much prefer to use these because I am used to using them in my art dabbling class. I am sure that tony was right in saying car paints though as most car paints on the market here are Acrylic.... Still! it's nice to know.
All the best to you and your family. Harry

Yes Dear, I'll do it Tomorrow

Country: United Kingdom | Posts: 12 Go to Top of Page

New Hire

Posted - 12/16/2005 :  04:38:55 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Harry I think the Halfords sprays here in UK are now acrylic - I use them a lot

Modelling New England in the old one...

Country: United Kingdom | Posts: 32 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 12/16/2005 :  05:53:57 AM  Show Profile  Visit dave1905's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The key is that the paints are solvent based, not water based. The 'splotching" is caused by the water beads prohibiting the 2nd coat of paint from sticking to the model. If you used a water based spray paint the splotching would not turn out the same.

For chipping paint, let the base coat dry, mist with water, sprinkle rock salt onto the model and let dry. then spray on the topcoat and brush off the rock salt. Chipped paint.

Dave H.

Dave Husman

Iron Men and wooden cars
Visit my website : www.wnbranch.com

Country: USA | Posts: 1146 Go to Top of Page

New Hire

Posted - 12/17/2005 :  8:28:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I am new in this forum I would like to say halo every one, i used till now floquil for weathering , i use to weathering all , i heard abuot the powder that work properly but i have no an Idea how to use, as they will be sisolved by wather or alchool, cain i apply with the airbrush or can be apply with a somple soft brush?
cannot find avaliable in te shop here in australia and i have to order that in USA but before toorder i would like to learno how to waether my models I have mostly steam locos my fist try will be a vagon so i will not risk to ruin an expencive model, so nay one may help me?/ i am at my first weathering also finding an easy to follow instruction page on the web
Thank you in advance

Country: Australia | Posts: 1 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 12/21/2005 :  6:59:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Just thought I would throw this in here...I have been playing around with chipped/worn steel surfaces since doing my Billet car, and planning on doing an armor model.

Rather than doing the Rubber cement "removal" method which is not very "fine"...I have been experimenting with the "paint on" chips & scratches. I had always thought that this would not work well for 1/48 because I thought you would see the second "chip"layer of paint over the base coat, and it would look wrong....but working with the Valejo acrylics to do the chipping, seems to work.

These are two quick pics of the method used on a scrap/test part to see what it would look like. The base color was just real crudely done with a brush to get a surface to work on, but the chips were done using Vallejo black-grey/green acrylic, applied with a 10/0 and 5/0 brush. Bragdons powders were then used for some rust. The entire side was then lightly dusted with Bragdons beige colored powder...whereafter I came back and hit a few areas with the acrylic and rust powder to ad some variation to the wear. The edges of the openings were then rubbed with a pencil to represent new/constant wear.


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Posted - 12/21/2005 :  7:22:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Welcome to the Forum. Many people use Floquil for weathering and get great effects. I personally like Floquil also, but feel that there are subtle effects that canít be achieved as well with paint, as they can with chalk/powders, or washes.

You do not need to buy commercial Powders such as Bragdons or MIG, (although I highly recommend them)Ö..you can just as well use Rembrandt pastels, that you grind into a fine powder by rubbing them on fine sandpaper. The pastels are available in hundreds of colors, at a good art supply store.

You do not want to spray pigment through an airbrush. There are several ways to apply powders/pigments depending on the effect you wish to achieve. They can either be:

Drybushed on
Brushed on and then diluted spread with alcohol or turpentine
Mixed with alcohol or turpentine to create a wash
Mixed with water or alcohol or turpentine to create a slurry/paint that is then painted onto certain areas/surfaces

Here is a page with a brief description/overview of how Miguel Jimenez uses his powders to get the effects. (I consider Mig and Chuck Doan among, if not the, foremost modelers in their areas of modeling.


Country: | Posts: 1147 Go to Top of Page

Bill Martinsen
New Hire

Posted - 01/27/2006 :  8:23:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Marc -

Thanks for posting the link to the work of Miguel Jimenez. I think we could all learn some things from military modelers. I know I have.

Bill Martinsen

Country: | Posts: 5 Go to Top of Page

trainfan 13
New Hire

Posted - 03/02/2006 :  1:53:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
after using an A/I solution on a white front building it turned a dark gray. sure i used too much ink. is there any way to lighten? can you tell me the amount of ink to alcohol that will give me a light weathered affect? thank you

Country: | Posts: 10 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 03/02/2006 :  2:08:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
trainfan, I use three different dilution ratios. Which one I use for a given project depends upon the "look" I'm trying to achieve. Here they are:
1 tsp. India ink or black drawing ink to 1 pint of 70% or 91% alcohol
1.5 tsp. ink to 1 pint alcohol
2 tsp. ink to 1 pint alcohol

More often than not, I use the first mix (1 tsp. : 1 pint) because it's the lightest and I can always reapply it as a second wash if I decide something isn't dark enough.

Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

trainfan 13
New Hire

Posted - 03/09/2006 :  10:08:31 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
i purchased sierra scale cedar shingles and have finished a roof. the weathering directions are to get a copy of model railroader, 1969 issue, pages 68 and 69. i do not have an issue that goes back that far, do you have any idea what they used in that article? thank you

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