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Author Previous Topic: Quick Tip #6 and #7 Topic Next Topic: Final pics of FSM JS #18 Westside Auto
Page: of 26

PaulD
Crew Chief



Posted - 06/14/2005 :  6:29:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Pat,
I hear you, I just need to take some more better quality shots, this one is a little blurry but bigger.



Country: Australia | Posts: 935 Go to Top of Page

belg
Fireman



Posted - 06/14/2005 :  7:04:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Paul, thats much better now I can see it. Thanks Pat


Country: USA | Posts: 4503 Go to Top of Page

n/a
deleted

Posted - 07/10/2005 :  05:57:37 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Grandt Line 55 Gal Drum Experiment:

Floquil "Roof Brown" base coat
Polly Scale acrylic sides (Yellow)
Tamiya Acrylic top (White)
Blackwash
Rembrandt Oil paints for rust
Bragdon's Black and Ruddy Red powder
Tamiya "Smoke" for oil stain/spill



Marc
(...needing to get a better camera)



Country: | Posts: 1147 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 07/10/2005 :  07:45:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Marc,

I would say that the experiment was a success!



Country: USA | Posts: 31273 Go to Top of Page

Rick
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 07/10/2005 :  08:00:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Marc, I agree with Bruce, the experiment was a success. How did you do it?


Country: USA | Posts: 22862 Go to Top of Page

TrevorCreek
Fireman



Posted - 07/10/2005 :  08:08:56 AM  Show Profile  Click to see TrevorCreek's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Marc,

Nice drum. Did you dry brush on the yellow/white coat or did you peel off some of the paint. The dark rust appears to be the initial roof brown undercoat. Thanks.

Frank



Country: USA | Posts: 1028 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 07/10/2005 :  10:50:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Marc, that's very nicely done! It looks like my old burn barrel that I posted photos of a few weeks ago.




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

n/a
deleted

Posted - 07/11/2005 :  05:19:06 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mike, I saved all those photos of your burn drum.....I want to try to model that effect. Thanks for posting them.

Thanks all for the kind words on the drum, it was an interesting experiment……..I really did it to play around with all the different materials….especially the artists oil paints. I thought it would be a small and easy to do project…and if I messed it up it was no big loss. It took about 30-45 minutes to do (not counting initial drum assembly and Roof Brown base coat)…..however I do not look forward to doing a dozen or so that I may now need [:-grin]. To answer some of the questions; The scale is O, after the roof brown was cured (this was airbrushed on the slightly ry side to give it some light “tooth”), I gave the entire drum a wash of “Blackwash”, when dry used rubber cement for the areas that would be peeled, then brush applied the yellow Polly Scale acrylic….which I have to say, I absolutely hate their paints….it went on too thick and with lousy coverage, so I took a brush with water and worked with it till stopped looking “gloppy”, and started showing the base coat through in a worn/faded paint manner. When dry I removed the RC with tape, this also lightly lifted the edges of the acrylic where the peels/chips were. Then using/adapting a technique favored by armor modelers, I mixed a small amount of Raw umber and Sienna artists oils and using a small pointed brush, I dabbed this into the peeled/chipped areas added a bit of turpentine to let it flow outward to the lifted acrylic edges and with another brush lightly pulled streaks downward…then intermittently blow- dried when happy with the look. The top was done with Tamiya acrylics (which are absolutely great paints)white, much in the same manner as the side. Once all the oils were applied, I gave the entire drum another coat of Blackwash….then applied some Bragdons dark rust chalk at the ridges, and top and bottom edges. Lastly came the Tamiya “Smoke” for the oil effect on top, and a slight amount was streaked down the side at a couple of areas, and some Bragdon,s black powder at the areas where dirty hands would grip/handle the drum. ……it took almost as long to write this, as it did to do the drum [:-grin]. I also use Mic Greenberg’s method of blow drying between each application, to speed the process along.


Marc



Country: | Posts: 1147 Go to Top of Page

Rick
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 07/11/2005 :  07:25:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Marc, thanks for the lengthy explanation.


Country: USA | Posts: 22862 Go to Top of Page

RodH
Engine Wiper



Posted - 07/11/2005 :  07:32:10 AM  Show Profile  Visit RodH's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MikeC

It looks like my old burn barrel that I posted photos of a few weeks ago.

Mike, Can you point me to the barrels mentioned above?


Rod Hutchinson
Growing Old Disgracefully
Australia

Country: Australia | Posts: 340 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 07/11/2005 :  09:59:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by RodH

quote:
Originally posted by MikeC

It looks like my old burn barrel that I posted photos of a few weeks ago.

Mike, Can you point me to the barrels mentioned above?



Rod, here's the link:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9065




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

RodH
Engine Wiper



Posted - 07/11/2005 :  7:11:53 PM  Show Profile  Visit RodH's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:

Rod, here's the link:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9065


Ah Mike! Real barrels not models ones. I remember the link. Thank you.


Rod Hutchinson
Growing Old Disgracefully
Australia

Country: Australia | Posts: 340 Go to Top of Page

n/a
deleted

Posted - 07/19/2005 :  5:47:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Last night I decided to scrap one of the half built buildings from a current diorama project, and start over....I wasn't quite happy with my previous peeling paint siding,...which was done board by board...for expediency, I decided to experiment using Mt Albert lap siding....and was actually pleased enough with the result, that I think I will now build it using manufactured siding...here is the result.

This is O scale, and the exposed boards are 6",
Paint is Tamiya "White acrylic, over a Silverwood/Floquil "Grime"/Walnut drawing ink, undercoat/primer....peeling was done using masking tape.

This is an overall view of one of the future building sides:


this is a detail view of an area at the top:




Marc



Country: | Posts: 1147 Go to Top of Page

nalmeida
Fireman



Posted - 07/19/2005 :  6:11:10 PM  Show Profile  Visit nalmeida's Homepage  Reply with Quote
That looks very real Marc, I must have missed it before, could you elaborate on the masking tape part? Did you also used rubber cement? If you already explained it could you show me where?


Country: Portugal | Posts: 2040 Go to Top of Page

n/a
deleted

Posted - 07/19/2005 :  6:52:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Nelson,

The process I used is as follows:

Cut siding to size +/-
Drill knot holes, and shape/distress knot holes
With a #11 xacto, cut/score "splits/cracks into boards and board ends. Unevenly trim and split Bottom edge/board.
With a wire pencil create grain...taking care to grain each board individually
Clean-up fuzz with steel wool, and then with a fine sandinf stick sand each board individually (this helps remove any reamining fuxx, and "square" the board edge.
Stain entire side with "Silverwood", using a 1/2" wide sofft brush...pulling in direction of/paralell to boards.
Stain Backside also....to prevent/reduce warping. Let Dry
With an old T-shirt rub Floquil "Grime" across the siding...in the direction of the boards. Let dry.
Apply another coat of silverwood...again hkeeping in direction of boards. Let Dry.
With the soft 1/2" wide brush...apply "Walnut" drawing ink....then immediately wipe off with soft rag. Always working in direction of siding/boards. Let Dry.
With the soft 1/2" wide brush, apply the Tamiya acrylic...working in direction of boards....density of paint,and amount of coverage can be irregular, or "skipping"...this is where your own personal preferences/experimenting will have to come in.
Then when almost dry...place 1" wide masking tape across side..in direction of boards...run finger tip over it to press onto "flat" surface...and then run with fingernail along lap undeside/corners...then pull up, again in direction of boards...repeat till entire wall is done. This step also will be up to you insofar as to how much peeling you want.

Hope this helps.

Marc



Country: | Posts: 1147 Go to Top of Page
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