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 Weather or not: Discussion, Tips, Techniques
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Author Previous Topic: Quick Tip #6 and #7 Topic Next Topic: Final pics of FSM JS #18 Westside Auto
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lab-dad
Fireman



Posted - 04/07/2005 :  11:47:40 AM  Show Profile  Visit lab-dad's Homepage  Send lab-dad a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Mike I'm so glad you posted this!!!
I love the colors that S&S gave me.
Particullarly the great contrast from one side to the other (inside vs. outside)
I also used the peroxide to bring out the reds.
However......the S&S obviously has a shelf life.
the batch I used had been sitting for months, turned clear, when shook though clouded up rust again.
But...when I used it the boards just turned a tan/green color not grey on the hidden side.
So after a week do a bunch of boards and then I guess its done.
I wonder what actually (chemically) happens to the S&S after a while?
Anyway I gotta make some more now.
-mj



Country: USA | Posts: 1543 Go to Top of Page

PaulD
Crew Chief



Posted - 04/07/2005 :  7:12:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Gidday All,
Loved the threads here on weathering, I've learnt a lot and have lots to try out. I would like to comment on the Terri Towel method for peeling paint. I don't know who can claim this method first, doesn't really matter, we all copy each other to some extent. In the instructions for S.W. Shelby's Marine, Brett covered this topic well and I was super pleased with the results I obtained. The only thing I would add to KarlS's description on Hectors Tavern would be to: Put the first layer of Teri Towel swabs on but don't attempt to cover the whole area, leave a lot of gaps, after it has dried in a few hours go back and repeat this again. This then gives lots of depth and layering to the effect. This can be repeated another time and this really reinforces the effect. I used Floquil Reefer white but have also tried this with Acrylics with similar results but probably not the depth of the Floquil. Brett had suggested that a few boards having very little paint be introduced and although look pretty lame on there own, look great on the final model which is true. I use very cheap face flannels from a $2 shop instead of old socks. New terri towel has lots of loops, this is a key to the right effect (though the socks work as well). I'll post some clips over this weekend to show what I mean. Oh also make sure you have pre stained the wood as this shows through and is important to the overall effect, lighter here than normal as really dark grey weathering looks a little unrealistic as evident in the great siding photos MikeC posted earlier.
Regards
PaulD



Country: Australia | Posts: 935 Go to Top of Page

davidray
Engine Wiper



Posted - 04/10/2005 :  6:26:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I tested the sweet and sour batch I finally got to work. It took a looooooong time for the steel wool to dissolve. But it finally did.

So I used it on some coffee stirrers and laid them on glass to dry.

Here's a shot with untreated wood, treated wood top side, and treated wood bottom side.



I like the results. Easy to do.


David Ray
Cumming, Georgia, USA

Country: USA | Posts: 287 Go to Top of Page

Rick
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 04/11/2005 :  07:51:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That looks good David.

I wonder if anyone has tried sandwiching the strips between two pieces of glass? Will both sides be gray?



Country: USA | Posts: 22747 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 04/11/2005 :  10:00:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It looks like you got some fairly consistent (and repeatable) results, David. Thanks for the photo.

I was gone all weekend and haven't had a chance to check my s/s mix. When I looked at it last Friday, it had a thick rusty scum on top of the solution, so I guess it's working away.

Rick, your idea is a good one. I think - if I can find a couple pieces of glass around here - that I'll try that.




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

davidray
Engine Wiper



Posted - 04/12/2005 :  3:22:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My batch took weeks to dissolve. I was afraid I had the wrong steel wool. But the vinegar finally kicked through whatever was on the steel wool and then the wool was gone. I strained the stuff through a coffee filter and painted the wood with the results.

I like the sandwich idea, especially for wood that would have both sides exposed to the weather.


David Ray
Cumming, Georgia, USA

Country: USA | Posts: 287 Go to Top of Page

PaulD
Crew Chief



Posted - 04/12/2005 :  8:29:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi all,
I did some close up shots to illustrate what the peeling paint effect should look like. The Boxcar Red works well for this as it has a lot more contrast than reefer white. I'm not sure you can see the 3 passes I used to get the effect though they are there. This wall is part of the Hoist House for Shelby's, one of the few times Brett has used Grandt windows instead of his laser cut ones. What do you all think?





Country: Australia | Posts: 935 Go to Top of Page

davidray
Engine Wiper



Posted - 04/12/2005 :  10:15:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The wood looks great! The window will, I presume, be weathered to match. I'd like to see the final.


David Ray
Cumming, Georgia, USA

Country: USA | Posts: 287 Go to Top of Page

PaulD
Crew Chief



Posted - 04/12/2005 :  11:05:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David,
You are right, the window does need to match, thats where it is easier to paint the Laser Cut windows with the terri towel. Not to worry, the terri towel does work on surfaces that aren't flat you just need to be more careful guiding on the blotting, making sure you don't just blot the high points, a very small dry-brush works well for this, you just have to blot rather than paint. Point taken, I will post another shot as I progress. I may turn this into a `Shelby's' topic seeing no one else has up till now.



Country: Australia | Posts: 935 Go to Top of Page

Rick
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 04/13/2005 :  07:52:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks good to me too. Nice work. Keep us posted on more progress.


Country: USA | Posts: 22747 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 04/13/2005 :  10:35:11 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Paul, I'd say that wall badly needs a fresh coat of paint!

Nicely done with the peeling paint effect. And if you want to start a Shelby's thread, feel free to do so. Shelby's is one of those SW kits several of us drool over but do not have. It will be fun watching yours go together.




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 04/13/2005 :  11:14:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Paul,
Great work.
I also like to use the method you describe but I am an old sock kind of guy.

Please do start a new thread on the construction of Shelby's as this is one of my favorite structures but unfortunately it was sold out before I got into modeling and the prices on eBay are out of sight for me.
I will be watching your progress with great interest.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13306 Go to Top of Page

PaulD
Crew Chief



Posted - 04/13/2005 :  9:11:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John,
Socks are fine, in fact looking again at my wall,I probably should have used socks to get a smaller loop to blot as my loops look a bit large. BTW thanks for the link to the Washington photo archives there was some great stuff there, lots of donkeys. I would like to pose another weathering question. Those brass wires supplied with most rolling stock kits for handgrabs and brake wheel wire, how do you clean them enough to get the blacken it to stay on. Last time I tried this was a disaster, I couldn't get Blacken-it here in Australia, the hobby shop had a french product called Black Magic, I washed my wire in Diosol and then detergent and water and left it to air dry, (handled it with disposable gloves) trouble was, when I put it in the Black Magic it came up nice and black, I left it to dry and when I came back to have another look and see how it adhered it all came off with the wipe of a rag, when it came off there were tell tail finger prints under the Blacken it. (I don't think they were mine!! were are CSI when you need them!) What do I have to do to clean this so the Blacken it sticks?



Country: Australia | Posts: 935 Go to Top of Page

MikeC
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 04/14/2005 :  11:59:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Paul, nothing I have done causes Blacken-it to stick to brass. I've tried cleaning the brass with extra fine steel wool, soaking it in an alky bath, drawing it through a soapy cloth, etc. None of it made any difference. The brass wire would blacken up nicely, but when I cut and bent it, much of the blackening would come off. My "work-around" was very simple: I used a #0000 detailing brush and carefully painted the shiny areas with flat black acrylic. After dusting with raw umber chalk, the touch-up painting blended in with the original blackening.




Country: USA | Posts: 21584 Go to Top of Page

lab-dad
Fireman



Posted - 04/15/2005 :  09:01:03 AM  Show Profile  Visit lab-dad's Homepage  Send lab-dad a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
I've given up on brass & blacken it. Just dont work.
Either use music wire & blacken it, or....
Paint the brass (this is also hard and often less than satisfactory)
Mj



Country: USA | Posts: 1543 Go to Top of Page
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