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ETinBH
Fireman
Premium Member
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 Posted - 07/19/2004 : 7:53:04 PM
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Thought I would start a thread as we seem to have a real good interest by some members. Here are my phase one pictures.
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| Elliott (ET) |
Edited by - ETinBH on 08/24/2004 9:20:17 PM
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Country: USA
| Posts: 3189 |
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Dutchman
Administrator
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/19/2004 : 10:23:38 PM
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Elliott,
I have the Suds Bucket on my infamous shelf (the to-do shelf, not the completed model shelf), so I will watch your progress with interest. Does the stone foundation on that porch come with the kit?
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Bruce |
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Country: USA
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LLayton
Section Hand
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Posted - 07/20/2004 : 02:41:54 AM
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Elloit, looks wonderful so far, nice job. I noticed your already adding lots of original ideas on the kit, like your roofing material (looks great!), and the window signs. The side wall large sign looks awesome ... betcha that took a lot of work.
I'm working on this kit right now also, and I already ran into a ton of trouble. I messed up the clapboard siding while trying to sand off the fuzz (I'm sure that doesn't surprize anybody, if they read about my Willy's project, hehe).
I ended up cutting new siding from MicroMark "Board-on-Board" material, then stained it with B.I.S. "Silver Wood Stain", then a final wash of thinned down Floguil Rosewood stain (I got 1 bottle left, MY PRECIOUS!).
I also ran into another problem (any help or advise would be GREATLY appreicated): I can't find a Poly-S color that looks similar to real wood. I tried "Earth" on 1 window (plastic), but it turned out way to dark and a little greenish too. Anybody have some tips for painting plastic windows/doors, so that they look like weathered wood?
Here's a picture of my Sud's. I only have the walls stained and inside bracing done so far. I taped the walls together for this photo, so you could get see how I'm going to tweek the roof.
P.S. I finally figured out how to compress JPG's, this new picture is under 100k (sorry everybody about my earlier large pictures).
-Larry
Edit: Had to correct picture code.
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Edited by - LLayton on 07/20/2004 02:52:00 AM |
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paulbrockatsf
Fireman
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Posted - 07/20/2004 : 03:56:09 AM
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It will be interesting to watch this thread. Both of you are doing something different with this kit.
Larry,
I can't help you with wood color. I have use earth before as well as concrete but just used them as a base coat. I always have used other colors over them as peeling paint.
Paul
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MikeC
Administrator
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/20/2004 : 10:17:55 AM
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Elliott, you're doing a great job on this little structure. That big Harley sign must have take a while.... and some real patience to get on so perfectly.
Larry, I like the color of your siding with the rosewood added. Now the structure resembles one that is just starting to weather. It's a nice touch! About painting your plastic windows/doors: have you looked at the "craft" acrylic paints carried by Michaels and Walmart (among others)? Brands such as Apple Barrel, Ceramcoat, Folk Art, and Americana have literally hundreds of colors - many of them are exact color matches for the Polly colors and they can be blended to create "custom" colors. To get the wood appearance you're looking for, you might try starting with a few drops of burnt umber and mixing a drop or so of Ceramcoat's "Mudstone" or "Sandstone." These craft acrylics are very cheap (especially compared to Polly/Floquil), so it's easy to "experiment" until you find or create the color you want.
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Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm a busy man. I have a railroad to run.
Visit the Central Missouri & Southern
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Country: USA
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ETinBH
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 12:21:09 PM
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Some progress. BTW, the stone dock comes with the kit as a casting. The wood on top is strip also in the kit.
The HD logo on the building front is history as it really looks lousy.
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| Elliott (ET) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 3189 |
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teejay
Fireman
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 12:34:25 PM
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It's looking great Elliott , and the signs are a distinctive touch .
TERRY
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Country: Canada
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Bbags
Administrator
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 1:18:16 PM
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Elliott,
I really like what you have done with this project to this point.
I agree with Terry that the signs really are quite interesting to read and will definitely make this model distinctive.
Larry,
I like what you have done so far with your model and I agree with Mike give the craft paints a try.
They work very well for all surfaces.
For both,
Please keep posting your pictures.
Thanks
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John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia. |
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Country: USA
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Gerry
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 1:45:46 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeC
have you looked at the "craft" acrylic paints carried by Michaels and Walmart (among others)? Brands such as Apple Barrel, Ceramcoat, Folk Art, and Americana
Mike (and others) -- have you ever found that those paints are too thick and/or obscure any minute detail? I've always shied away from them because "they" say that the Polly Scale/Floquil pigment grind is the finest available. I've always been worried that that paint is too thick.
How about for airbrushing? Do-able with those?
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Gerry (MMR #346)
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Country: USA
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Bbags
Administrator
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 1:55:03 PM
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Gerry,
I as well as many others use these paints and have no problems.
You can thin them with Blue(not green) windshield washer fluid and this will thin them out considerably which does not obscure the details.
The blue color of the fluid does not change the final color of the paint.
I know Mike and Tom PM airbrush frequently with these but since I do not own an airbrush I will let one of them explain the thinning ratios.
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John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia. |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 12561 |
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MikeC
Administrator
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 2:06:44 PM
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Gerry, I use the craft acrylics all the time. (Most of the detail parts in my photos posted here or on my website were either brushpainted or airbrushed with craft acrylics.) Some of them are too thick straight out of the bottle, but as John noted, they can be thinned with windshield washer fluid. I've also had good success with using Polly Airbrush Thinner, and Ceramcoat makes a specially formulated thinner (as well as a brush cleaner and a pigment float) for their products.
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Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm a busy man. I have a railroad to run.
Visit the Central Missouri & Southern
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Country: USA
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LLayton
Section Hand
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 2:49:21 PM
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Mike & Everybody .... thanks for suggesting acrylic paints. I found some old "Model Railways" acrylic paints I had in storage.
They were super thick, so I watered them down with tap water, and they worked beautifully! (I'll try bug-juice thinner next time).
Things I love about these acrylics:
1) Its super easy to clean-up, which also makes mixing new colorways easy (easy to clean-up spills).
2) Very low cost, and cheap thinner costs too (I used water this time).
3) I really like the results, I think they actually stick to plastic better then Polly-S maybe, and after thinning them down a little, they didn't hide any details too.
4) They were very easy to use for hand-painting, they went on smoothly, and with good coverage too.
P.S. I mixed up some Brown, Rust and White colors I had .... and found it very easy to match the "old cherry wood" color I wanted.
Thank you for the advice, you've converted me! I love the acrylic's now too! 
-Larry
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postalkarl
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 3:08:40 PM
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Llayton:
Go to the craft store and buy the acrylic colors the women us on ceramics. Not sure of the manufacturer but there is a color called barnwood. It's a dead ringer for Floquil driftwood stain. Could be Folkart Apple Barrel or one of the others. They have hundreds of colors to choose from. Go to the stor and have fun.
Karl S.
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postalkarl
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 3:11:33 PM
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Hi All:
You can also use blue windex as a thinner.
Karl S
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postalkarl
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 3:25:54 PM
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ETinBH:
Hi your roof looks good but may I make a suggestion to you for the next time you do a roof of this type. The material you are using looks a bit large to me. When picking material of this type for this type of job think of its size in relationship to an ho figures foot. There is a product on the market called High Ball Products real dirt. It is Walthers #330-510. It is very fine sifted dirt. Use regular black latex house type paint to paint your roof card as this type of paint stays wet for a while. Then sprinkle on the real dirt and allow to dry. When dry blow off the excess. The result is a nice scale looking tar and gravel roof. Some of the paint will come through the dirt and in other places it wont. Try this method I think you will like it. I hope you don't mind my constructive criticism.
Karl s.
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ETinBH
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/21/2004 : 5:28:11 PM
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Karl - super suggestion. How about now? (I don't have time to wait on Walthers, but I will get some for the future.)You are such a great modeler that your suggestions are always welcome, in fact- encouraged!!!!
Lousy picture - on the model you can see the individual grains of the #130 sandpaper. I will also be putting a bunch of stuff on the roof and the accumulation and additional weathering should bring out the details 
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| Elliott (ET) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 3189 |
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