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 PRR 'FM' 40 foot flat in HO
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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 02/28/2021 :  4:06:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking Good from here, James, and a nice SBS as well. Keep plugging!

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7584 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/02/2021 :  10:56:40 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Pete. Despite 5 on-line meetings since I burned the brush and pruned the orchard Sunday, there's been some progress:



Top view.



Bottom view.

Next I have to decide in what order I should apply:

- bottom flanges of the crossbearers
- side sills
- end sills
- longitudinal stringers that support the plank deck.

I'm leaning toward bottom flanges first, then stringers. Next solder the side sills on while the frame is resting on the stringers so the deck is flat, and follow with the end sills.
Before I decide I'll look where the brake gear is mounted: I'll guess cylinder off the center sill, valve and reservoir off the stringers but I chose Porter's article for the excellent artwork.



James

Country: USA | Posts: 6913 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/05/2021 :  10:23:53 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I did some experimental fitting and decided to go ahead with attaching the side frames.



Top view above, bottom below:



My current puzzle is how to do the frame ends: Porter calls for 8" channel. 3/32" would be close but I don't see it in the K&S price list. I could either fabricate it from flat stock or try bending it from sheet.


James

Country: USA | Posts: 6913 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 03/05/2021 :  10:37:58 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
James,

Your flat car is a thing of beauty. You’re doing a fine job.

Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 7486 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 03/05/2021 :  11:05:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking good, James. It sounds like you're having to spend more time planning than actual soldering.

George


Fly Army

Country: USA | Posts: 16946 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/05/2021 :  12:02:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A third alternative would be 3/32 L and 3/32 bar stock... Save you the bends :-)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8980 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/05/2021 :  11:04:34 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Mike and George. Dave, the issue with a solder joint in the end sill is keeping it at right angles while soldering the sill in place. If I spent a while making a mostly heat-proof jig, I could do it, or I could use Tix low-temp solder for the 2nd joint. But it would be touchy.

I laid out the parts and tried the stock I had against the side sills. I decided to thin the flanges of K&S 1/8" channel:



Happily, my PanaVise gripped it well enough to do a clean job. Then I assembled the end sills to the rest of the frame:



The upper right corner joint is off; I'll fix that tomorrow. Then I'll add .015 plates to support the Kadee #158s I've decided to use. Then I'll mess around with my Kadee gauge and stock on hand to figure out the thickness of the bolster center plates.


James

Country: USA | Posts: 6913 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/08/2021 :  11:11:37 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I decided I should insulate the trucks from the frame: A high-resistance DCC short could draw 2 amps without tripping a breaker. And there are plenty of 25- and 30-watt soldering irons on the market; they take a minute or two to warm up.



I used Kadee #158 'scale head' couplers. It had been years since I'd assembled a Kadee box. I marked and drilled #50, then tapped 2-56.

I soldered 1/16" brass pads to the bolsters and step-drilled the centers out to 1/8". The photo shows one time the drill found a spot maybe .020 off-center to start; I should have cut my marking lines deeper. I press-fitted 1/8" styrene tube in each hole and adjusted the height of the car. Then I tapped them 2-56. The truck screws expand the tube a bit for a very firm fit.



Next step was to test operation. I wasn't going to add more parts till it ran right.



I operated it over most of the layout. It was bothered by two spots, but not badly. That might be the off-center truck mount, or it might just be the lack of weight. The rest of the parts might increase the weight 25%. I could remove and replace that bolster pad....


James

Country: USA | Posts: 6913 Go to Top of Page

Terrell
Fireman

Posted - 03/08/2021 :  5:39:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice work, James!


Country: USA | Posts: 2389 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 03/08/2021 :  5:53:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice brass work, James.

George


Fly Army

Country: USA | Posts: 16946 Go to Top of Page

Guff
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/10/2021 :  10:39:47 AM  Show Profile  Send Guff an AOL message  Reply with Quote
James,
Very impressive build! I'd be lost on a brass scratchbuild but I sure admire your work!


David Guffey

Country: USA | Posts: 2144 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/10/2021 :  10:28:39 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Terrell, George, David. This is by far the largest model I've built with solder. I've soldered switches, repaired a couple of brass steam locos and built a dozen mast signals mostly out of brass. But for this, I've had to fabricate and fit all the parts (so far). Practice scratchbuilding structures certainly helped, but it must operate, so requires more precision. I do have an article and drawings to work from, but it's taking a while:



Here I've finished the stringers that support the floor. They're 1/32" bar. The two in the middle will be completely invisible so I used offcuts.


James

Country: USA | Posts: 6913 Go to Top of Page

robert goslin
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/11/2021 :  12:58:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice work James. Your soldering looks very neat.
You mentioned, with weight it should run OK through a couple of bad spots. I hope so, otherwise it become annoying. But as long as it's not derailing should still be OK I guess.
Hope you can sort it out.


Regards Rob

My current build.
http://railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53468

Country: Australia | Posts: 2953 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/14/2021 :  10:29:22 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thank you Rob, but some of the cleanliness is because all the parts (so far) are tough enough that I can scrub the nasty bits off with a stainless brush. Recent progress has been impeded by NMRA activity, meetings and plumbing, but I'm more than half way there on the brakes:



I'm going to model the pipes coming out of the AB valve in two halves. The hand brake rod is installed but I won't be able to add the brake staff etc. till the deck is on.


James

Country: USA | Posts: 6913 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/14/2021 :  11:59:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice job so far on it James. Make sure you put a great looking and appropriately tied down load on this flat car.
"Loads count!" in the evaluation. You would lose points in "Paint and Finish", but it would look good as a static model
in brass. Make sure you include the "build photos" in your documentation, and make sure your evaluators understand the complexity. Look at the bright side, only 3 more SB's after this one.

Jim


Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 6333 Go to Top of Page
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