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 SRMW's kit No. 240 HO Car Shop - Diesel Shop Build
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Author Previous Topic: River Dam Model kits - Assembly and review Topic Next Topic: Choices Challenge: B&O Tower Kit
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Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 02/25/2021 :  10:27:39 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote

Hey Greg, nice brick work.


Frank

Country: USA | Posts: 6163 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/25/2021 :  3:52:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You guys with the egg cartoon trick. Do Not, Do Not forget to save your toilet paper tubes!!!!!!!

Jerry

"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 13390 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 02/25/2021 :  4:09:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by TRAINS1941

You guys with the egg cartoon trick. Do Not, Do Not forget to save your toilet paper tubes!!!!!!!



TP tubes are also great tools for holding a freight car, passenger car or locomotive shell for airbrushing. Not so much for flat cars, though!

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7584 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Engineer

Posted - 02/25/2021 :  10:05:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey everyone, thanks for your comments & posts.

I figured since I've shown the egg carton stripwood organizer a few times in other builds, that this would be old news by now.
Nice to see that some of you haven't seen this yet, or else you weren't paying attention in my other builds.

So tonight I'm going to show you how install the large front doors.
I started by drilling out the top & bottom strap hinge(I did the middle one as well) on the large door castings.
Using a 0.18 drill bit, and carefully drilling a straight hole down through the end just like a real hinge would have.
The photo below shows my doors already painted up, however I drilled all of my doors before painting them.
I'm just showing where you need to drill after the fact.
I also used Gallery Glass for the windows in these doors.





These doors hinges also have a second component that needs to have 2 more 0.18 holes drilled into them, to allow the .015 wire that will eventually hold these 2 parts together.





So these hinges will look like this when completed.
I bent my .015 wire into little L shapes, turned upside down so this pin would not slip out. I added a speck of CA to the top of my L pins to hold them in place.





Once I had all of the hinges in place, it was time to glue them to the front wall casting.
Along the sides of each door opening are little pockets for the hinges to fit into.
I test fit each door before gluing into place using Weldbond white glue.





The part of the hinge that goes into the brick has little bumps on their backs that should line up with the holes in the brick.
However this isn't always the case, so you might have to adjust some of those holes in the front wall casting.
Using a brush I apply glue into the pockets where the hinges will sit into.
I also add a bit of glue to the backs of the hinges where the bump out is located.
I start with the 2 outside doors first, propping then upright using a bottle of paint & stir stick to get the right open position.





Then the same thing for the right side.









I let these 2 outer doors dry, and then I repeated this process for the 2 inner doors.
This is how they came out looking, I still need to paint the hinges in the wall pockets black to match the rest of the hinges.






I painted up the hinges, and I installed a Canadian National sign above my shop doors.





Here's a side angle shot to show you some of the painted hinges in their brick wall pockets.





The instructions suggest to eventually glue these doors in the open only position, because the wear & tear of opening & closing those doors will eventually wear out(break) the soft cast hinges.
The instructions also suggest putting the doors in the closed position and tape them in that position during the rest of construction.
Since I opted to do all 3 hinges per door I find my doors very stiff to move.
So I might leave them in their open position since they don't seem to swing around like they would with only 2 hinges being done.

That's all I have for tonight.

Greg



Edited by - Ensign on 02/25/2021 11:06:36 PM

Country: Canada | Posts: 9161 Go to Top of Page

robert goslin
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/26/2021 :  12:33:55 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Working hinges in HO scale. Now I've seen it all. Just brilliant Greg.
And they are really nice looking doors.
Great looking CN sign, where did that come from.


Regards Rob

My current build.
http://railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53468

Country: Australia | Posts: 2953 Go to Top of Page

sgtbob
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/26/2021 :  05:48:43 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I normally I am against moving parts such as your doors because they eventually give you
problems or they invite onlookers to see how well they move.
However, you have done such a great job I believe you will get away with it.

Nice work my friend,

Bob


http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=51837

Country: USA | Posts: 4308 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Engineer

Posted - 02/26/2021 :  08:23:01 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rob & Bob, thanks for your nice comments and for your posts!

Rob, the sign came from Bar Mills.
I modified it a bit, to suit my needs.

Bob, I agree with your observations regarding the problems with working doors eventually giving you problems.
I plan on having my doors always in the open position, no playing with them.

Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 9161 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/26/2021 :  08:30:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Shucks, Greg. Bonnie and I were just getting ready to sneak across the border just to play with those doors.

Very nice work, BTW.



Bruce

Country: USA | Posts: 33524 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/26/2021 :  08:35:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Greg, those hinges are amazing!

George


Fly Army

Country: USA | Posts: 16946 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Engineer

Posted - 02/26/2021 :  09:07:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bruce & George, thanks for your interest & posts!

Bruce, our borders are still closed to would be door openers on both sides.

George, I thought Bob at SRMW put alot of thought into making those hinges work like they do.
So I agree with you, they are amazing little things!

Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 9161 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 02/26/2021 :  10:01:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nicely done indeed, Greg! Thanks for the SBS, too!

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7584 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 02/26/2021 :  11:36:42 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Excellent work on those door hinges. They look great.

Bernd


New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

Country: USA | Posts: 4004 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Engineer

Posted - 02/26/2021 :  11:35:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks! Pete & Bernd for your nice comments and your posts!

Hi everyone, well tonight I started working on the large window sidewalls for this shop.
They are mostly laser cut wood panels that will eventually hold all the large window castings for this kit.
However before we get to placing all of those window castings into these walls, we need to do a few things to them first.
Here are all the laser cut parts we will be getting ready tonight.




The 2 largest laser cut glass walls W1 is the back piece 3/32" thick and the second one W2 is the front piece 1/8" of an inch thick.
You glue W2 on top of W1 making sure they are even all around their edges.
Also make certain to wipe away any glue that may ooze out from between these 2 panels.
I use a damp brush to wipe away glue.





You repeat this same process for the next largest window wall W3 3/32" thick and W4 1/8" on an inch thick.





while those were drying I worked on the clerestory W5 pieces.
I clamped a metal ruler to my workbench, to ensure I glued these pieces together straight.





After I had the clerestory pieces glued together, I added the 10" x 10" bracing to the backside.
You must leave about 1/32" of the 10"x10" sticking out past the top and the bottom of these panels.
Here are mine showing the back of one and the front of the other.





Next I located the clapboard walls that will eventually get used as part of these sidewalls.
First I marked off 2 foot intervals for the nail holes I would add using a pounce wheel.





I then stained these walls with "Hunterline stain" on both sides of the wood to help prevent warping.
Then set these aside to dry.





I then went back to the 2 large window walls, you need to glue a 2"x10" piece of stripwood on both glass walls. Have the panel laying flat in front of you, and at the very top and in the middle as I have shown below.





You then add 2"x6" pieces at the ends of these window panels.
Then use 2"x4" pieces added to each vertical post between the 2 ends, and then added to the horizontal pieces between the verticals.
Just like I have done here shown below.





I then painted my clapboard pieces and my clerestory window walls the "Black Green" that I've been using.





That's all I have for now.

Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 9161 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 02/26/2021 :  11:54:05 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Very well done, Greg.


Country: USA | Posts: 7486 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/27/2021 :  12:04:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Greg great job on the doors. Besides the hinges nice paint job on them.

Jerry

"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 13390 Go to Top of Page
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