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Author Previous Topic: The SP&S in Indiana Topic Next Topic: Control panel for my layout.
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Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 03/01/2020 :  12:28:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This project started when a friend gave me and old Detail Associates roundhouse kit. Due to missing pieces I kitbashed it into a single stall enginehouse:




I did plan to place it on a predetermined spot on my HOn3 logging line but it turned out to be just too crowed in the spot




So then I looked for another spot in the same area and figured that it I added a bit more real estate I could easily fit it towards the rear-side on the layout.




That also meant pulling up the track in that area and when I started to do that I just kept pulling track until It was all gone. Now my plan is to pretty much reno or re-do the entire 5X2' section. It was originally built over 10 years ago and I would like to think that my scenery skills have improved a bit since then.

Country: Canada | Posts: 2422

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 03/01/2020 :  9:29:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well that is pretty much the backstory to what I'm up to.
I also plan (hope) to hand relay the track except the turnouts, as well as change the trackwork slightly.
Since I as going to attempt hand-laying the track I decided to remove the old cork roadbed as well.


I had sheeted all the rear area as well as all the other roadbed with cork and time had not been kind to it. It had turned rather wavy and undulating. Luckily I hadn't glued it down, just tacked it with track nails. It came up fairly easily. I did have to cut some of the scenery on the edges to free it up but that wasn't too hard.




I then added a 7X16" extension to the layout that will accommodate the enginehouse with a bit of room to spare.




I also decided that cork might not be the most stable thing to hand-lay track onto so I used some 1/8" plywood instead. I started with the enginehouse area and worked my way forward.



I used some blank newspaper to make templates the replacement roadbed and transferred them to the plywood. When those parts fit I glues and tacked them to the layout.




After the glue set up I filled all the gaps around the new roadbed with carpenters wood filler. Then sanded everything smooth when dry.





The last thing I did today was to set the first turnout back into place. It needed a shim in the middle but it went in okay otherwise.
I don't know if this hand-lay thing is going to work, I've never done it before and I don't know any modellers close-by that have done it either. I think I'll try laying just the bit between the turnouts first and see how that works. I just hope that the choice of plywood roadbed doesn't come back to bite me later.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2422 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 03/01/2020 :  11:22:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It is good to see this project proceeding, Glen. If the plywood gives you trouble inserting the spikes, the worst case scenario is that you pre-drill holes a bit under size.

Bruce

Country: USA | Posts: 32679 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 03/07/2020 :  11:32:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Bruce.
I did complete a bit more prep work before I start the handlaying attempt.




I tacked down the third and last turnout and drew in where the two tracks will go. The enginehouse track is just a straight few inches but the other track will be at an 18" radius. That track will be my reload from narrow gauge to standard. I also took a bit of the hill on the side out so I can have room for manual turnout throws.



Edited by - Glen Haasdyk on 03/07/2020 11:33:34 AM

Country: Canada | Posts: 2422 Go to Top of Page

Philip
Fireman



Posted - 03/07/2020 :  12:12:56 PM  Show Profile  Visit Philip's Homepage  Reply with Quote


Nice remedy Glen!


Philip



Country: USA | Posts: 3231 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 03/10/2020 :  12:27:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I started to handlay some track. Just the short 2" piece between the two turnouts so I could figure it out:



I used some standard gauge ties that I cut down in my NWSL chopper. They had the same height as the shinohara turnouts so they lined up just right.







I first added the two sections of rail, soldered them in place and then glued the tires down , slipping them under the rails. When that was dry I spiked down the middle tie, using a Kaddee and Kemtron gauges to ensure everything stayed in place.
Bruce is right, I did have to pre-drill the spike holes to get the spikes to go through the plywood.





Before I start the attempt to lay a longer piece of track I decided that I needed a bit more practice and to see if the spikes will hold properly with my pre-drilling. I made a 4X4" sample of my benchwork with a 1/2" + 1/8" plywood sandwich. I figure it's better to screw-up this that waste a whole bunch of time on the layout.




I glued some ties to the 'benchwork' and cut four pieces of code 70 rail. I'll practice on these and see how it goes. I'm using 5/16" spikes that will go through the ties and into the 1/8" plywood.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2422 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 03/10/2020 :  09:14:28 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Doing a test piece is a good idea, Glen. When I did some handlaying of track, I put a little bit of contact cement on the botton of the rails and let it dry. (Walther's Goo, Pliobond, or Weldwood Contact Cement). Then laid and spiked the track, and finally ran a hot soldering iron over the tops of the rails to make the contact cement melt. I'm sure that spiking alone is fine, but I tend to 'over engineer' everything.


Bruce

Country: USA | Posts: 32679 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 03/12/2020 :  12:43:55 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the tip on the contact cement, Bruce. That will come in handy, especially for the curves.
I did complete one of my test sections.



I started by spiking the ends of the rails to the first tie. Again, I used the Kadee gauge to hold the rails at the proper gauge.
I thought I might show how I drove the spikes into the ties.





I found it almost impossible to drive the spikes into both the ties and the plywood roadbed without predrilling the holes. The ties are 0.023" so I chose a 0.019" (1/64) bit to pre-drill. At first I thought that it would be too close in size to the spike and wouldn't hold but I turned out okay.





Then I used a small pair of needle-nose pliers to set the spike into the hole.







Then I used the tip of the pliers to drive the spike home.





After doing some reading I decided to spike to rail to every 4th tie. this 4 inch section took 16 spikes to complete and the rail is firmly held. I'll repeat this with the second line of ties to get some extra practice in and then try it on the layout.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2422 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 03/15/2020 :  9:13:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I completed the second test section of track:



It took me about 20 minutes to lay the second piece, two rails with 20 spikes. I'm fortunate to have a speed-driver drill set that makes short work of all those holes I'm pre-drilling.



Now that I'm fairly confident that I can lay track (on straight sections at least) I switched to the next problem, laying ties that are evenly spaced and I won't have to lay them one-at-a-time.
I came up with this tie-jig. I can't really take credit for the concept. I found that Former MR author John Olson had something similar when he built The MR project layout The Jerome and Southwestern. (one of my favorite project layouts)
I built mine on a piece of 1X4, using 9/64" square stripwood as spacers, and a 1/8" piece as a backstop. I gave it a 1/8" gap between the spacers and the backstop so I can run a piece of tape.


After I placed the ties into the jig, I ran a piece of masking tape over the gap and pressed it down, then I gently lifted the tape and ties out of the jig.




Then I could bring the tie strip to the layout and glue it down with white glue. I then used a small square to hold the ties down as I pulled the tape off. You could leave the tape until the glue dries but this way you can do a bit of custom work, slightly mis-aligning ties to give it a bit more 'rustic' look.
The Jig took a couple hours to build and it can be used for both HO and HOn3 ties. I glued three strips of ties down today and it only took about 15 minutes. I figure that I can save quite a bit of time using this jig.




I also added the floor of the enginehouse, spiking it down thoroughly to avoid warping. I plan to spike the rail down to the floor as well. I painted all the roadbed in a light brown -tan before I added the ties. Next I'll finish adding the ties and get on to spiking some rail down.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2422 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 03/15/2020 :  11:09:52 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Your track laying seems to be going very well. Nice looking track.


Country: USA | Posts: 6519 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 03/19/2020 :  01:17:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Mike, I hope the rest turns out okay.

I completed laying the ties today.






My tie jig made the job considerably easier. I also added some code 70 insulated rail joiners to the turnouts. I'm going a bit old school and powering the line using DC since I'll only be using one or two powered engines.
I have to sand some of the ties in a few places to smooth out some elevation transitions but other than that it's ready for rail. I think I'll start with the enginehouse/reload tracks.

After a laid all the ties I found I had a far amount left over:



I'm thinking of using them to make a 2' long test track for when I build my HOn3 Shay.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2422 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 03/19/2020 :  09:46:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice work, Glen. I'll second Bruce's suggestion on using contact cement on the bottom of the rails.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 16199 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/19/2020 :  10:41:41 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Good progress, Glen. I used Goo on the bottom of Code 100 on an open-deck bridge about 25 years ago, to reduce the number of spike holes I'd have to drill. Most of the Goo joints have broken, but the track is OK because it's straight and the spikes persist. I think what did it was thermal expansion of the rail and humidity changes in the wood roadbed. But it is on a widely-traveled module.


Country: USA | Posts: 6518 Go to Top of Page

Philip
Fireman



Posted - 03/19/2020 :  10:52:46 AM  Show Profile  Visit Philip's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nice work Glen!

Philip



Country: USA | Posts: 3231 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 03/19/2020 :  11:18:42 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looking good, Glen.

Iíve used the Goo/Pliobond trick myself, usually on bridges or trestles where spiking can be a problem. I just checked one I did about 15 years ago where I used just Goo and no spikes; the rail is still firmly glued down to the ties.

Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 6519 Go to Top of Page

Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 03/19/2020 :  7:15:53 PM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote

Someone's been very busy messing with the way things were. Nice going.


Frank

Country: USA | Posts: 5909 Go to Top of Page
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