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Author Previous Topic: In-ko-pah RR: New project Topic Next Topic: 36 / 42 TON SHAY DRAWING
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Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 12/06/2019 :  08:43:13 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BurleyJim

With that short length, and the softer material, I think your manual jig is going to be the only answer. I can see those 'shorties' launching off that saw. Not a pretty sight.

Jim



Actually they wouldn't fly far. The blade isn't turning that fast. There's just no way I can think off to hold all those sticks down. I could come up with a sophisticated holding jig, but then I don't need that many for just this project. Maybe some where down the line I'll hit on an idea.

Bernd



Country: USA | Posts: 3373 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 12/06/2019 :  08:45:45 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Pennman

Looking swell Bernd, nice cutting jig too.



Rich



Thanks Rich. Many would have made a wooden/styrene jig since they don't/haven't work with metals much. It probably took longer to make the aluminum jig than it would with wood or styrene. It's functional for what it's go to do.

Bernd



Country: USA | Posts: 3373 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/06/2019 :  11:15:19 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bernd,

Here's a possibility for you to knock out...I tossed this together, use your dimensions. The retainer plates should settle the 'sticks' down. Maybe another thumbscrew toward the cutting slot as the sticks get shorter (manually moved). Just a thought.


Jim

Looks like I forgot to add the stop plate, oops!



Edited by - BurleyJim on 12/06/2019 11:17:31 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 4820 Go to Top of Page

Rail and Tie
Section Hand

Posted - 12/06/2019 :  1:15:36 PM  Show Profile  Visit Rail and Tie's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Very nice work on the jigs and fixtures front!. Not sure if this would help with corner break outs or not because of crumbling material. Would a hit of thin CA soak into the material or not. It might give the soapstone enough strength to give you cleaner corners.

I am just not sure if CA will soak into the stone or sit on the surface.


"Leonard, check it out. I've bought an N Gauge locomotive. Half the size of HO. Look...it fits in my mouth!"

Country: Canada | Posts: 57 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 12/06/2019 :  4:20:14 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BurleyJim

Bernd,

Here's a possibility for you to knock out...I tossed this together, use your dimensions. The retainer plates should settle the 'sticks' down. Maybe another thumbscrew toward the cutting slot as the sticks get shorter (manually moved). Just a thought. Jim

Looks like I forgot to add the stop plate, oops!



Hey Jim, great idea. I think it would work great. Don't think it needs a top plate. Just a front retainer plate would work. No need for a second one. I've got some ideas of some modifications on it.

Bernd



Country: USA | Posts: 3373 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 12/06/2019 :  4:23:29 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Rail and Tie

Very nice work on the jigs and fixtures front!. Not sure if this would help with corner break outs or not because of crumbling material. Would a hit of thin CA soak into the material or not. It might give the soapstone enough strength to give you cleaner corners.

I am just not sure if CA will soak into the stone or sit on the surface.



R & T,

The reason for the chipped corners is I was to aggressive with the saw. Lighter strokes worked better. No broken corners.

As far as the CA glue. I don't think it would work. I think it would leave a shinny surface. Thanks for the tip though. Never know it might work on something else.

Bernd



Country: USA | Posts: 3373 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 12/09/2019 :  2:46:12 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Its time for an update before I forget what Ive done.
We left off with the sticks of soapstone being cut to length in a jig I made. Ive got all of the sticks cut to length now and gave them a bath to get the dust from cutting off of them.

Heres the pile after a nice cold bath.



The mock up of the crusher building was made from a foam board with paper backing and just plain foam. I thought Id try the just foam board to glue the blocks to using Aleenes original tacky glue. I used .010 thick styrene spacers between the blocks for motor lines. There will also be one long strip of .010 laid on top of the blocks give a horizontal motor line. The large foundation white block is one of the soapstone used for marking metal.



The glue stuck to the soapstone pretty good, but not so good to the foam board. Notice the third block from the left has come loose just from pulling out the horizontal strip I used for a motor line. Time for some contemplating on what to use. I needed something also that is less flexible than the thin, 1/8 thick, foam board.



After some head scratching and searching around the basement I came up with using .190 Lauan flooring. One side seems to have some kind of a primer on it. I figure that would make a good material to see if the tacky glue would stick to it. I also remembered to add a .010 thick horizontal strip of styrene on the base before gluing the blocks to the wood.





I remember some conversation about HO scale bricks and how its hard to tell from a certain viewing distance the mortar lines. Heres an example. Im about 75 to 100 feet from my house. Notice how the texture of the bricks sort of disappears. Even the pillar blocks that are about 25 feet away from me, its hard to tell where the mortar lines are and that they have a rough surface.



And yes, I laid all the bricks on the house. All the way around too!

So the experiment continues. Once I finish the wall Im going to try a new method of adding mortar between the blocks. Im going to try how one adds ballast to track. Im going to use dry plaster brushed over the blocks and then spray with water. Hopefully thatll give a good looking mortar lines.
Im going to try Lauan plywood for the core of the building that has the blocks glued to it. In putting it together Im going to use 45 corners. I could cut the 45 angles on the table saw except it doesnt give clean cut on the plywood. So I made a fixture to get better corners. I used a piece of wood 4 X 7 X 1 5/8 as a jig.

The piece of wood.



Two dowels.



I drilled two holes on either side before cutting the 45 angle. This will keep the two pieces aligned when slide together.



A side view to give a better idea of how it looks.



Two views of a piece of Lauan held in the jig/fixture.





To summarize things up, finish the test wall, test the use of Lauan plywood for a building core to hold the soapstone blocks. Maybe, build the top part of the crusher building while testing the core wall.

Much to do. Until next time.

Bernd



Country: USA | Posts: 3373 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 12/09/2019 :  3:48:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Fantastic looking blocks! Great job with them, and your jig/fixtures are a work of art as well. You put a lot of time just into those jigs of yours.


Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 2000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 17703 Go to Top of Page

mark_dalrymple
Fireman

Posted - 12/09/2019 :  5:06:23 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Very interesting Bernd.

Are you going to add colour to your plaster mortar before you add it?

I would have guessed your question earlier in the thread. Its one of the problems I see with all the painting techniques for stone walls. I guess you could make up a jig (like you did) fill it with individual stone pieces, colour it with the leopard spot technique or similar, take the stone blocks out and mix them up, and then build your wall. Sounds like a lot of work!

Cheers, Mark.



Country: New Zealand | Posts: 1109 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 12/09/2019 :  9:12:30 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Excellent work making the blocks. I think as long as you spritz the dry mortar well with water so that it penetrates it should work. I remember a craft in church where we would glue glass tiles to a wood backing and then add mortar, but I cannot recall if we followed your approach or applied it wet and wiped off the extra. I checked online instructions for making tile mosaics and they use tile grout applied wet and wiped off with a grout sponge. The haze is then wiped off. Tile grout seems to take several to many hours to dry so theres lots of time to clean everything off, look for problems and correct them.

By the way, one set of instructions use Weldbond to glue the tiles down.

Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 5571 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/09/2019 :  11:36:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bernd,

I knew you would figure this out, the little whiffs of smoke coming out of your ears was the hint. Looking exceptionally good my friend.


Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 4820 Go to Top of Page

brownbr
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 12/10/2019 :  05:54:55 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
An impressive build for sure.

Bryan

Country: USA | Posts: 1523 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/10/2019 :  06:15:11 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Simply an excellent tutorial to complement an outstanding technique.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7212 Go to Top of Page

sgtbob
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/10/2019 :  06:18:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Outstanding work !!!

Bob


http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=51837

Country: USA | Posts: 3890 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 12/10/2019 :  07:55:06 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys for the nice remarks. I really appreciate them.

I'll answer the questions posed in several posts.

Bernd



Country: USA | Posts: 3373 Go to Top of Page
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