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 Bachmann On30 Heisler
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brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/19/2019 :  01:14:57 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Guys. I have a On30 Heisler that ran like a dream. Slow? Gosh I could go and get a coffee and come back and it had only moved an inch. For various reason I haven't run the layout for a month or two. Today I fired up everything. Every thing ran fine except for my Heisler. Sniff. It will move a bit and stop. Lights flickers. I've oiled it. I've cleaned it. I've even used a few naughty words. Nothing seems to work.
It flickers so it's a pick up issue? Maybe. It stalls at the very same rotation of the drivers each time. So it's a drive issue? Ahhhh. Is it both?

My questions is. Where are the pickups on the Heisler? And has anyone opened up the gearbox on a Heisler?

Yes I've Googled for some hints and diagrams but not much luck. So here I am cap in hand asking for help.

"HELP".

Country: Australia | Posts: 496

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 11/19/2019 :  4:45:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If it was geared for Prototype, they only ran 12MPH anyway. So you could get a cup of coffee and return before it ran a block.
You could have gear or drive shaft problems known to Bachmann locomotives. Also, does it have sound that was added, because inside the locomotive, you will see a yellow capacitor. This capacitor MUST be removed to facilitate smooth running. The picture below is of the On30 Climax truck pick-ups, but I believe that the Heisler trucks are the same for pick-ups location. Unless I've got the locomotive in front of me I can't give a definitive answer to your questions.




Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 5000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 16043 Go to Top of Page

ironflyer
Fireman

Posted - 11/20/2019 :  8:38:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Gotta start with thatís one I donít have, but,
It ran smooth before. Though, it may be that cap.
Have you run it with just power, not on its wheels? Same sticking spot? I doubt the wheels and contacts have oxidized where they sat for a month or so.
Stopping rotation at the same point for the wheels I might think to look for a sticking or tight, burred side rod- tho it was smooth before. Could a side rod mounting screw be a bit loose to let a rod be off just enough to let the rod move and affect her gait? I wouldnít think you had a cracked axle gear, the rotation same spot stop- a speck of dirt of scenic grit in a tooth?
Hope attempting to run it has shown you something....


That's fine, it'll make another trip kid.

Paul

Country: USA | Posts: 1312 Go to Top of Page

brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/20/2019 :  10:50:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys. It runs fine. Then stops. 'Nearly' always at the same rotation spot. I think it must be in the gears somewhere. BUT. But the strange thing is that when it stops both front and rear lights will flicker. So now I'm thinking some sort of a short.

I love my trains. But my weak spot is fixin locos. I'm just not that way inclined.

By the way it's a non sound version so the yellow capacitor is still in place.



Country: Australia | Posts: 496 Go to Top of Page

ironflyer
Fireman

Posted - 11/21/2019 :  8:38:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good thought on the short....
An MMI here had one, it didnít fully stop it, it was like it struggled with it. That buggar was a puzzler. But found it was a common issue....

I hope youíve found something!


That's fine, it'll make another trip kid.

Paul

Country: USA | Posts: 1312 Go to Top of Page

brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/22/2019 :  12:22:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My layout hasn't got any easy long runs to just let a loco run. But I did find that by letting it run at a scale walking speed there was a clicking sound in the front truck. So me thinks the front gear box has gone on holidays.



Country: Australia | Posts: 496 Go to Top of Page

ironflyer
Fireman

Posted - 11/22/2019 :  07:36:02 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Iíd say youíre onto it.

That's fine, it'll make another trip kid.

Paul

Country: USA | Posts: 1312 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 11/22/2019 :  10:31:14 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well Mate, If you want to find the clicking problem, that may be the very cause of your problem, start with using an NMRA On30 standards & clearance gauge to check that the wheels are in gauge and alignment. Then, check the drive shafts and see if they bind and click in slow motion. If not, move on to check to see that when the trucks are removed from the locomotive, that the trucks run very freely, with no clicking or binding.
With the trucks still removed, check that the output shaft that drives the trucks can be run/turned, with very little effort, and no clicking sound within that unit.
Basically, the drive shafts that come off of the motor to the front trucks, go through a lot of potential problem areas with the capacity to become or develop the need to be checked for binding. Picture below of the locomotive truck shows what is inside, that could be a good cause for binding as well. Good luck with your tests and finds.









Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 5000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 16043 Go to Top of Page

brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/22/2019 :  5:46:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks. I'll have a look when I have the patience!!



Country: Australia | Posts: 496 Go to Top of Page

brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/23/2019 :  7:31:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK I didn't curse and got the trucks off. Didn't even drop a screw. They both run fine. I can't turn the drive shaft/s with the trucks off. But I guessed that was due to the gear box friction. I guess the binding is in the things that go up and down and around and around!!! (I'm being technical here!!),
If I 'drive' the loco it works fine now. I 'only' get the lock up if I try to be too clever and have it creeping along. (Sometimes it works fine. Other times not so fine).

The joys of model railroading!! Not.



Country: Australia | Posts: 496 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 11/23/2019 :  9:05:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by brucet

OK I didn't curse and got the trucks off. Didn't even drop a screw. They both run fine. I can't turn the drive shaft/s with the trucks off. But I guessed that was due to the gear box friction. I guess the binding is in the things that go up and down and around and around!!! (I'm being technical here!!),
If I 'drive' the loco it works fine now. I 'only' get the lock up if I try to be too clever and have it creeping along. (Sometimes it works fine. Other times not so fine).

The joys of model railroading!! Not.




I'm glad that you are at least narrowing the problem down. I believe now that it is the drive mechanism in-between the front truck, and locomotive gearbox. The picture below shows the gear box dropped down from the motor, and showing its contents inside. But the problem area is your drive mechanism. A little filing, greasing, and good old TLC will get it running smoothly. Bachman puts out some fantastic locomotives, but just doesn't spend the extra effort in time, and money needed into their products running mechanisms. (gears, etcetera, and so forth).
Don't give up and get disgusted. This is supposed to be the fun part of model railroading.




Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 5000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 16043 Go to Top of Page

brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/23/2019 :  11:06:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks. I'll have a look at the gear box next.

If I accelerate at a 'reasonable' rate all is well. It's only when I get the urge to see the loco moving at less than a walking speed. 1/48th of walking speed that is.

My issue is really about a loco than I was proud of. No running for sometime and it now is playing up. Moral of the story is use it or lose it.




Country: Australia | Posts: 496 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 11/24/2019 :  09:44:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by brucet

Thanks. I'll have a look at the gear box next.

If I accelerate at a 'reasonable' rate all is well. It's only when I get the urge to see the loco moving at less than a walking speed. 1/48th of walking speed that is.

My issue is really about a loco than I was proud of. No running for sometime and it now is playing up. Moral of the story is use it or lose it.





Well, if that is the case and it sat unused for some time, than it could possibly be that the grease in the gearbox has gummed-up and won't let the locomotive run at a smooth slow speed. Another thought to check on.
I'm an old model railroader, so what's modern to use for cleaning grease today I'm not sure. However, I use organic solvents starting with the mildest and working up to remove grease from gear boxes.
1. Alcohol. Sold as shellac thinner or high strength Isopropyl alcohol. It will evaporate completely, leaving no residue. Alcohol will not damage plastic, or paint.
2. Mineral Spirits. Sold as paint thinner. Good grease cutter. About the same strength as alcohol for cleaning. Leaves a slight oily residue. Also unlikely to damage plastic, or paint.
3. Naptha. "Last resort" Sold as Ronsonol lighter fluid. This was a favorite at the time. It cuts oil and grease like you won't believe, while being relatively safe on most plastics. Be sure it has all evaporated before attempting to re-grease the box and gears.



Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 5000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 16043 Go to Top of Page
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