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Author Previous Topic: SRMW- Martins Machine Co. - Kitbash Topic Next Topic: Baileys Produce FSM #JS2
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tct855
Engine Wiper

Premium Member


Posted - 08/21/2017 :  08:03:45 AM  Show Profile  Visit tct855's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tony,
Why am I not surprised we have another two things in common.

I too have both of those articulated engines. One undec and one N&W. ha, so cool.

Sorry to say I don't have the N&W GP-30 version you have tho.

Can't have everything. Where would you put it!.

Nice video, thanks for sharing. Thanx Thom...



Country: USA | Posts: 466 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 08/21/2017 :  4:57:52 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks Ed for the confidence.

Oh, Mike, any time one wants to give advise, suggestions, I am always listening. Thanks for the ideas.

Thanks Carl, and your welcome.

Jim, I do have an HOn3 and an On30 layout along the walls, just a point to point, planned, does that count?

Thom, I had no doubt you would come up with more. The undec. one I plan of decaling one day to N&W, or Virginian, which I like also. I have a whole bunch of the articulates, mostly 2-8-8-2, but also a few others, one recently purchased is a Rivarossi Clinchfield 4-6-6-4. I just switch one engine for another, once in a while. I have a nice brass N&W 4-6-2 which runs very well, but doesn't like the slightly tighter inner radius, but runs fine on the outer one, a 28" rad. Who'd have thought.


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2816 Go to Top of Page

tct855
Engine Wiper

Premium Member


Posted - 08/22/2017 :  08:07:37 AM  Show Profile  Visit tct855's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tony,
Wow 28" radius for the outer! Humm the inner must be around 26" or so.

Wow, that's tight. That's streetcar/logging radius territory.

Funny thing is, most manufacturers claim their rolling equipment can run on 18" radius',

but most of us know it's more like 22" radius running.

I would check your inner curve gauge for a possible tightness or kinks. If not then-

Your 4-6-2 should be checked for articulation issues. Your brass model should negotiate at least a 22" with little issues.

Well my 2 worth. Thanx Thom...




Country: USA | Posts: 466 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 08/22/2017 :  5:08:17 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tct855

Tony,
Wow 28" radius for the outer! Humm the inner must be around 26" or so.

Wow, that's tight. That's streetcar/logging radius territory.

Funny thing is, most manufacturers claim their rolling equipment can run on 18" radius',

but most of us know it's more like 22" radius running.

I would check your inner curve gauge for a possible tightness or kinks. If not then-

Your 4-6-2 should be checked for articulation issues. Your brass model should negotiate at least a 22" with little issues.

Well my 2 worth. Thanx Thom...



Hi Thom. My radii are actually 24" and 27", just measured them. That 4-6-2 can negotiate that smaller radius if I nudge it a little on the left cylinder, and having read your thoughts, I turned it around, and it ran just fine the other direction. So it must be the linkage, but boy, oh boy, where would that glitch lie(?), I'll have to look at it closely. I have a brass 2-8-4 which runs on that track just fine. I only have one loco, a 2-8-8-2 from Precision Craft Models that really does have problem on that radius. But runs great on the outer one. All trial and error.

I would love to have had larger radii, more sweeping curves, but my space was limited, and after all, I am doing a operational diorama. Now, if I were to take some weight lifting equipment out of one room (I have 2!) I might be able to do something one day, but that doesn't seem too likely in the near future, I like working out too. However, I had actually thought about moving my layout outwards to the wall, but then I wouldn't have my HOn3 layout I plan on.

Thanks for your thoughts, much appreciated.


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2816 Go to Top of Page

tct855
Engine Wiper

Premium Member


Posted - 08/22/2017 :  8:46:41 PM  Show Profile  Visit tct855's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tony,
That's some tight radius'. Nice to hear you're able to do some troubleshooting of your engine.

I would still double check the radii of the track curve with a curved track gauge. (It's more accurate than using the string/pencil or tape measure methods) which don't allow for measuring slight kinks.

Here is a picture of a couple short curved 26" & 28" track gauges.




These are easy to use, just set inside the gauge of track and slide lightly back n forth and should not have any resistance.


Also, Here is a link to a quick clip I did for another customer on how to check engine drivers for enough side to side slack.

which is different from checking side rod binds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kAm7-zAd_8

Hope this helps T, although I can't help with your lack of extra needed layout space tho. ha. Thanx Thom...



Country: USA | Posts: 466 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 08/23/2017 :  4:47:13 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tct855

Tony,
That's some tight radius'. Nice to hear you're able to do some troubleshooting of your engine.

I would still double check the radii of the track curve with a curved track gauge. (It's more accurate than using the string/pencil or tape measure methods) which don't allow for measuring slight kinks.

Here is a picture of a couple short curved 26" & 28" track gauges.




These are easy to use, just set inside the gauge of track and slide lightly back n forth and should not have any resistance.


Also, Here is a link to a quick clip I did for another customer on how to check engine drivers for enough side to side slack.

which is different from checking side rod binds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kAm7-zAd_8

Hope this helps T, although I can't help with your lack of extra needed layout space tho. ha. Thanx Thom...



Thanks Thom, it is one thing I had thought of. I have looked at the track very closely and had run several pieces of equipment over each section to eliminate any of these 'kinks', and am pretty sure it is free of them, but I can easily make one and see how it goes. Good tip.


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2816 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 08/23/2017 :  5:43:52 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Ok, much to my delight, I have found the problem with the loco. I knew it couldn't be the track, I was too meticulous in getting it just right, and have made several re-do's to that effect. So I ran the engine slowly around the track, and as expected, it stopped. So I got down with a flashlight and saw the problem. There was a short in the training truck. There are a couple of tabs that stick out like footboards, and one side was a tad too close and kept shorting. The other side, for some reason, didn't get that close. So, I just snipped it off, problem solved. Ran around several times, not a problem.




Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2816 Go to Top of Page

tct855
Engine Wiper

Premium Member


Posted - 08/24/2017 :  4:21:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit tct855's Homepage  Reply with Quote
T~,

Ah! Buggar! I'll say it, YOU DA MAN! T...



Country: USA | Posts: 466 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 08/24/2017 :  4:48:32 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tct855

T~,

Ah! Buggar! I'll say it, YOU DA MAN! T...



, they call me that at work too.


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2816 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 08/26/2017 :  8:18:13 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
OK, the loco bit got a bit off topic, so here is a post that shows how I get going. I won't be able to post again at least until next week, so this will be it for a while, and unfortunately, I won't be able to answer anyone, so please accept my apologies ahead of time.

So, what I like to do is draw out the plan for the walls exactly like you would see in a professional kit, ehh, maybe not as well done or detailed, but you'll get the idea.

I leave off the cross timbers for when I build it, as it isn't really needed in a drawing. At least not for me. So without any further ranting, here are the sketches of two walls, still have 4 to go (the front, rear, small offset wall and the right side end wall).





For the most part, I like to get the overall sizes sized in, and the doors and windows drawn in. Since the Rusty Stumps large roundhouse windows will take up most of the height, I will use two long headers for the length (or maybe a single piece double the width) and start working down, placing the windows in place to size in the support timbers.

The windows will be painted, and when dry and weathered, will be glued back to back with clear (weathered) styrene between them. I may cut some windows in the center to have some swung open, or slid up. Not sure yet.


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2816 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 08/26/2017 :  9:19:51 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tony,

I think I've used the same Rusty Stumps windows and they look great; I was very pleased with the results.

Your plans look very prototypical.

Mike



_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Edited by - Michael Hohn on 08/26/2017 9:21:08 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 3446 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 08/27/2017 :  04:47:01 AM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Michael Hohn

Tony,

I think I've used the same Rusty Stumps windows and they look great; I was very pleased with the results.

Your plans look very prototypical.

Mike


Thanks Mike. Yes, I have always uses Rusty's windows when I can. I have a load of Grandt Line, and whenever I pull them out in search of possible windows, I just shake my head and say, 'no, these just won't look right'. So Rusty's are the first ones I turn to, especially if the interior will be seen. A few exceptions, I sometimes use Grandt's for masonry buildings. So, Walt, if your listening, I thank you for helping make our models look better. You have a great product at a great price, and it is very much appreciated.


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2816 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 09/07/2017 :  09:56:31 AM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Now I am back from the Denver convention, (I am sharing many photos over the next few days on my Facebook page, as the larger pictures can be posted there: https://www.facebook.com/tony.burgess.75248)
I have had a little time to finish the drawings of the engine and car shed, as I am calling it now, as the smaller side shed will be for repairing freight cars and such.

Anyway, I like the design, now I have to get on to the framework, a little later, as my wife wants to go to the Botanical Gardens here in Tulsa.





Comments and suggestions are always welcome.



Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2816 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 09/08/2017 :  4:22:03 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Getting started on the framing. This is the long wall. I have the windows sized in, and decided to add a door on one end. I used a Rusty Stumps freight door frame, cut in half and glued to some 1x6" stripwood. Have a couple of small windows to add for the 'office' area, and associated framing for that.

The windows will be glued to clear styrene, and another window added on the inside. The self adhesive windows from Rusty Stumps makes this so easy and neat. No messing with glues. Some windows will have the lower portion open.




Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2816 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 09/08/2017 :  8:54:20 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Just a quick one before I retire for the night. I finished one wall, the longest one. Hopefully, the others, 5 more, will go a little quicker.





Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2816 Go to Top of Page
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