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Author Previous Topic: Geezers Lounge Volume 24 Topic Next Topic: Tuesday geezer lounge is open
Page: of 26

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 07/04/2017 :  11:03:46 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I made a little progress on the mine structures. The tipple is assembled (minus chutes) and the walls of the hoist house are assembled, stained and waiting to be raised into place. I tried to show a newer building with the eaves protecting the wood still so that there is a browner band at the top and the unprotected areas have been bleached and greyed more. I didn't want the wood to be grey on the inside (not that I plan on having a detailed interior, but this is also a bit of a test building for me). The stain bled between the boards but it isn't terrible looking. Any tips, ideas, etc welcome.
Cheers,
Dave








Country: Canada | Posts: 1087 Go to Top of Page

danielb
Engine Wiper



Posted - 07/04/2017 :  8:29:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice work, I do love structures made from individual planks. :)


Country: United Kingdom | Posts: 320 Go to Top of Page

BigLars
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 07/04/2017 :  10:31:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice to see some single board construction happening again.

My current build:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50375

Country: USA | Posts: 11193 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 07/05/2017 :  07:47:28 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
David,

Not many modelers try to color the inside and outside differently as you are doing, nor try the two tone weathering. To avoid the bleeding between the boards you would have needed to stain before assembly. Nevertheless It turned out very nice.
Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 3955 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 07/05/2017 :  10:16:31 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dan and Larry, thanks for the kind comments.
Michael, it never occurred to me that the stain would bleed around the edges. On retrospect, I should have - lack of experience, I guess. I considered staining the wood beforehand but as it is my first craftsman kit, I wasn't sure how much wood I would actually get. I was worried about staining the wood and not having enough to do other parts. As it happened, I am short of various pieces. to be able to complete the whole thing. I will need to go get some more from my LHS but that's not too convenient. Luckily, the mine sits at the back of the layout!
Thanks for the comments.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1087 Go to Top of Page

Dupesy
New Hire

Posted - 07/06/2017 :  3:34:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi David, great work! In regards to the turnout controls falling victim to passers-by, I also use the bullfrog controls and mounted plastic pipe brackets onto the fascia to protect them. Not the prettiest solution, but cheap and effective.


Country: USA | Posts: 17 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 07/06/2017 :  3:38:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dupesy

Hi David, great work! In regards to the turnout controls falling victim to passers-by, I also use the bullfrog controls and mounted plastic pipe brackets onto the fascia to protect them. Not the prettiest solution, but cheap and effective.


There will most likely only ever be me or a family member or two watching trains go back and forth so I'm hoping snagging the controls won't be an issue. Does "hope" replace proper planning?
Thanks for looking.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1087 Go to Top of Page

Dupesy
New Hire

Posted - 07/06/2017 :  3:43:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I also rarely have anyone else in the layout room, but I'm the clumsiest(?) person I know and have to protect my work from myself!


Country: USA | Posts: 17 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 07/10/2017 :  7:01:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Huzzah! Despite the sick dog, the kids, and travelling spouse, I managed to actually get some hobby time in.
I wasn't completely satisfied with the backdrop and thought I needed some greenery at the foreground/middle ground to transition the 3D to 2D. I am still not super-satisfied but I think it will do.
Here are the colours and brushes I used. I wanted a stiffer, round brush than the one I had so I pretty much just used the 2" angled paint brush for everything. For my attempt at trees, I used the fan brush. You can see the colours in the styrofoam palettes I used.


I started with some rolling hills in the distance and I used a light green (I mixed yellow with a spot of Mars Black and some White). Then I gave a light spray of rattle can white (rustoleum white primer was sitting around the house, so that did the trick). The idea was to push the hills back into the distance.


Then I mixed up some Yellow, Blue, and a touch of Mars Black for the shadowy trees/bushes and highlighted those with a mix using less Black. Here's where a stiffer round brush would have served me better than the 2" flat brush. The fan brush worked pretty good but I think that either my paint was the wrong consistency or I didn't load up my brush enough. My "bob ross" trees were always kind of fuzzy.



Looking at it, I'm thinking that I should have painted the trees (well everything, really) higher up. I may repaint it to correct that, later
As ever, comments are welcome.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1087 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 07/10/2017 :  7:16:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey there's more! The mine under construction is starting to look like something.


The hoist house still needs a roof and doors; head frame needs a wheel and supports; tipple needs some rope to haul open the chute doors and some 2x4 to keep the chute doors from falling out. The kit doesn't provide for, or even call for, NBWs, pulleys for the chute doors. I feel like I should add those as well as hinges for the doors and some lights. If anybody has suggestions for easy outdoor lights, that would be great.
Something else I feel is needed is a house/structure to go over the tipple to keep snow out during winter or rain during summer. I will look at building a simple "lean-to" type shed to go over top of the tipple.
The effect of having two weathering patterns due to the protection from the eaves is evident, but may be too subtle. Perhaps I can enhance it with powders. I will make an attempt at weathering the remainder of the building exteriors with powders, as well. The instructions call for rolled roofing and there is some tissue paper supplied. They suggest using spray-on adhesive and I don't want to buy a can just for that. Can I use glue stick? The worry is that white glue may warp the wood sub base.






Comments/suggestions are welcome.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1087 Go to Top of Page

robchant
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/10/2017 :  7:20:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Dave,

I think that backdrop looks amazing, and hope you won't have to paint it again. Nice work on the structures too.

Take care,
Rob.



Country: Canada | Posts: 1091 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 07/11/2017 :  10:26:01 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Rob, I think the pictures make it look good! My only fear is that once I get some land forming going on, it may prove to be too low. I will have to wait and see. My struggle has been where to set the horizon and I couldn't find any help. I was also limited by the viewing "window" that will come from the valance, once installed. Technically, speaking I am happy with it but it's just the location that bothers me.
Thanks for looking,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1087 Go to Top of Page

Hopeless
Fireman



Posted - 07/11/2017 :  10:32:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, I think the backdrop looks really nice. Once you get buildings and trees in front it will look natural. You could also paint a few taller trees on to give a middle distance.

Roland



Country: USA | Posts: 1810 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/11/2017 :  12:45:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, your modeling efforts are looking really good and I'm excited to see the structure and layout scene components come together. It appears that the area is going to be a nice piece of eye-candy once completed. You have a wonderful start on a foreground structure being supported by an attractive backdrop.

I'm a bit late to the party, but I noted that you have asked a lot of questions and seem to be encouraging feedback on some of your modeling thoughts and techniques. If I may, I'll try to address some of these.

Your structures are being weathered to address some of the more subtle effects of the environment. I strongly commend your attention to the details. But the presentation of a detailed rendition of weathering effects makes the viewer eye look for additional details. Because of this natural interest/instinct, the fine details of the structure construction also need to be presented to further enhance the viewing experience. This is probably why you feel that the structures are not responding as expected when viewing them. I suspect that you are on the correct track with the ideas of additional structure details like N-B-W's, hinges, etc. So I encourage you to add those items as you can. Some of these fine details may be difficult to incorporate, and I for sure don't feel that lack of some of the details will detract from the finished product, especially as you are going to place the mine at the back of the layout.

I know that you are still in the construction and coloring phase of your roof, but please remember to color the underside of the eve.

I've rarely used a glue stick to attach rolled roofing. I have found that often the use of just a acrylic paint will hold the tissue material in place for most applications. The addition of a small amount of white glue or acrylic matte medium to the paint will increase the long term adhesion, but comes with the price of a possible dry coating making the use of weathering powders and pastels a bit more difficult and requires a spray fixative. (Not DullCoat, but a pastel art spray sealer.) My preferred method of attaching roofing materials is 3-M #465 adhesive transfer tape. https://www.amazon.com/3M-465-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape/dp/B002MYPSCM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499790065&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+transfer+tape

As for the idea to use soft pastels or weathering powders to darken the top edge of the walls under the roof overhang, I'm not sure that it is necessary. If you are going to incorporate fascia or barge boards, you may want to take advantage of the lighter coloring and place a slightly darker fascia board over the weathered wall, allowing the weathering to weep from behind the fascia board.

If you are interested, I can suggest a couple of possible techniques which you may want to consider if you still want/need to apply additional coloring to the walls directly below the eves.

Please continue to share your modeling and thoughts with us as you're certainly doing a lot of wonderful work.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 07/11/2017 1:10:51 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7124 Go to Top of Page

ed k
Fireman

Posted - 07/11/2017 :  2:30:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, Nicely done. You are intelligent enough to listen to great advice. A lesson many have not learned.
ed



Country: USA | Posts: 1091 Go to Top of Page
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