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Author Previous Topic: Martin G. Jones Machine Shop Topic Next Topic: The Oak Grove RR. 5-27-2018
Page: of 25

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 05/15/2017 :  10:52:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It's been a while since I've had reason to post but here is how I decided to connect the LED lights between the two modules. I fastened 2-plug terminal blocks to the side of the overhead supports, soldered 22-guage wire to the copper bits on the LED strips and attached them to the terminal blocks. Having the right size solder certainly helped to make that feasible. I then bridge the two modules with 20 or 18 gauge wire between the two terminal blocks.

Cheers,
Dave


This is a close up of the terminal block




This is a view of the end of the module with bridging wires



Edited by - David Clark on 05/15/2017 10:55:11 PM

Country: Canada | Posts: 1019 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 06/07/2017 :  01:34:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I apologize for the long interval between posts but posting the obvious - that I wasn't getting anything done, was pointless. Anyhow, I finally have some visible progress. I got my backdrop painted! As usual, photos don't quite reflect reality (in this case it's a good thing) I think the photos mask some of the goofs.
I'm struggling with whether to have some painted, distant, hills or not. Too small and they will seem too far away and if they are to be closer, I feel I would need more detail than I am comfortable painting. I even considered just leaving the sky bare.
This picture shows the right-hand module and the building mock-up there will be a mine (nothing like what the mock up is) and I am thinking of having a hill or rocky bit to frame the mine building, fill in the corner and give me an excuse to have a tunnel opening for the line to disappear into.



After rematching a couple of videos, staring at Marty's and Troels' layouts, I decided that fortune favours the brave and decided to attempt some clouds. I started with a mix of the sky colour and white to make a greyish cloud blob and then gradually added more white and dabbed at the clouds with the brush vertical relative to the surface. I had a dry brush on hand to feather the colour if I too sharp of an edge.








This is the right-side with the LED lights lit. The valance still needs to be attached, as does the fascia.


This is the left-hand module with the engine facility.
Of course, any comments are welcome.
Cheers,
Dave



Edited by - David Clark on 06/07/2017 02:15:31 AM

Country: Canada | Posts: 1019 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 06/07/2017 :  07:54:40 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dave,

Your sky looks pretty good to me.

Backdrop painting advice I've seen usually advocates for a simple background with horizon, hills or plains depending on locale, a suggestion of trees if appropriate. No individual trees, buildings etc. Simple is the key.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 3706 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 06/07/2017 :  1:29:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Mike. I figure I will have some foliage at the meeting point of backdrop and ground. A few buildings will be pushed quite close to the backdrop out of necessity for space. I may even just use flats or partial fronts for some of the commercial/town area.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1019 Go to Top of Page

Philip
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/09/2017 :  11:43:28 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice Progress!

Philip



Country: USA | Posts: 2390 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 06/11/2017 :  12:49:06 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Found some time to mock up Bill Banta's Little Creek Mine. My siding gets pretty close to the backdrop so I wanted to make sure it would fit. As it turns out I need to build it as a mirror image to the original but that shouldn't be an issue.
This will also leave me a large expanse to put the start of my hill/mountain on the right side and it also means that my wharf structures won't obstruct anything behind them.
Any ideas/critiques welcome.


The spur will give me ample room to put ore cars. The building on the left is the hoist room and the structure to the right is the head frame and tipple. Obviously these just take the place of the real models which will not have solid walls.


As you can see there isn't much room to build. I will want/need to put some sort of scenery bit to separate the background from the backdrop. At the end of the spur I expect I will put the start of a rocky mountain/outcrop. The line on the right is the mainline and will disappear into a tunnel or around the outcrop.

Cheers, Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1019 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 06/12/2017 :  11:31:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have installed my Bullfrog turnout controls with some guidance from Rich on his Franklin Junction Layout. As he suggested I screwed in the "Z" bar into the yellow control rod before installing it in the turnout control. You have to be careful sliding the rod through so as not to kink it but it is doable and, I think, much easier than trying to turn that little "tool" in a tiny space, above your head. I had a couple that were close to the edge so I put the "Z" bar in first and just screwed the control rod on by twisting from the outside of the fascia. The rod was short enough that there wasn't a lot of twisting in the rod itself and it went on quite easily. I also found that sometimes the "Z" bar had to be bent a bit so that the long edge didn't rub against the side of the turnout control.


This picture shows the "Z" bar installed, waiting for the yellow control rod. The hole in the fascia is on the top right.


Here we have the yellow turnout control rod and the red sleeve to allow it to slide smoothly. You can see I cut the red sleeve a little short as it should slide into the hole in the turnout control. I was able to fix it it but make sure you cut the sleeves long enough.


This shows the "tool" you get to screw on the yellow control rod to the "Z" bar. I found that for this short length, it was easier to do it from the outside and because of the short length, there was a lot of torsional flex and so it went on easily.


Here is the control rod trimmed and with half the end-cap put on. Rich had the great idea of glueing the bottom half and top half separately. I just have to add the top half but I will wait and make sure the controls are all operating properly.


Here the control is pulled out so there is the potential for snagging clothing on a larger layout or where there are people milling about. Luckily there is some flex in the rod so hopefully it won't snap.


This shows the "Z" rod screwed into the yellow control rod. Make sure it goes in far enough that when it is sliding through the hole in the control box, the edge won't catch. The red sleeve should prevent that but better to be safe. It was hard to screw on that far and I found the star-shaped tool useless. I just held the rod loosely with a pair of linesman pliers and turned the "Z" bar with some needle-nosed pliers.


A couple more done and all 7 are waiting for end caps. Actually I had an oopsie and seem to have lost the little screw to hold the cap on to the yellow control rod. Not sure where I'm going to find a tiny machine screw like that.

It was a learning experience. Hopefully they will all work. If worse comes to worse I can always chop off the rods and flip the switches manually. Everything is within reach.

Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1019 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 06/19/2017 :  12:42:13 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I started on my Banta Little Creek Mine today. Spent some time distressing and staining the wood. There was a broken piece in the kit, which Bill has said he would replace, so I'm waiting on that to build the hoist house. I will get going on the tipple and head frame. I used the edge of a razor saw, wire brush, and dull X-Acto knife to scribe the wood. Then I rubbed down the wood with 0000 steel wool to remove the fuzz. I tried some different concoctions of stain and settled on an India Ink/alcohol mix. I didn't measure exactly but it was somewhere around 20 drops of ink in the 500ml of 70% alcohol. True to expectations, the balsa sheet Bill used for flooring and tipple sides warped after being stained. I put some weights on them to keep them flat and that seems to have worked.



This shows the front of the tipple wall after scribing with the knife.



Some of the wood strips and the implements of destruction I use. The large file cleaner was used to scribe grain (br dragging it along the wood) as well as wormholes (by thumping the wood with the bristles).


The strip wood drying after a dip in the IA mix


A close up of the 8x8 wood after distressing and staining.

Any comments, welcome.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1019 Go to Top of Page

RichBeau
Fireman



Posted - 06/19/2017 :  06:16:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave

Finally got around to visiting both threads. I like the plan. And it looks like you've got those BullFrogs installed. The mine looks to be a fairly well thought-out design. Plenty of those extra details will make it 'pop.'

Nice work! I'll be following along.
--Rich



Country: USA | Posts: 2698 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 06/19/2017 :  09:35:17 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dave,

Looks good. India ink in alchohol: still a classic.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 3706 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 06/19/2017 :  11:49:05 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rich, Thanks for the kind words. I value your opinion as a long-time participant in the forums. I am hoping I can, one day, create some good-looking buildings like yours.
Mike, thanks as well.
Cheers,
dave



Edited by - David Clark on 06/19/2017 12:11:31 PM

Country: Canada | Posts: 1019 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 06/21/2017 :  3:34:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I got the headframe almost all built last night. I found that the problem with using the cardboard templates that Bill provides likes to absorb the glue. If I let it set too long, the cardboard wants to come with the structure and not long enough the structure is still wobbly. Maybe I have to re-draw the templates and cover them with wax paper. The tipple is next....
I will have pictures tonight.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1019 Go to Top of Page

Fritz1952
Engine Wiper



Posted - 06/23/2017 :  11:59:07 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David: Ah progress! The mine lumbers looks good. Waiting for more pictures. I just wish I could get so motivated to start my benchwork. Just almost out of little projects that keep me procrastinating.
Fred


Superintendent
Kebler Pass Subdivision
Colorado and Southern RR

Country: USA | Posts: 105 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 06/26/2017 :  11:39:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It's taken longer than anticipated but I made some progress over the weekend. I got the head frame done, minus the big ol' pulley. The tipple sub-assemblies are done and I'm ready to tackle the shed itself. I was going to stain the wood first, like I did with the other structures, but I decided that I wanted to try for a two-tone look that one gets when the eaves protect the wood so I expect the uppermost portion will be browner (less weathered) and I didn't think that dunking all the pieces would allow that to be done. We'll see what happens.



There were a few things I didn't like about this kit and one of them was the cross-bracing having to lap over itself. I had to weigh down the ends to keep them glued down. That slowed down progress.



Here is the front of the tipple with the scribed siding attached; the supports for the back of the tipple; and two of the three sub-structure supports for the tipple without their cross-bracing.



Here are all the sub-assemblies laid out. I don't know if the kit was short some wood or not but at the end of tipple and head frame construction I only had one 8x8 left and I still have to do the supports for the head frame, and the sub structure for the ore car rails. I had a few short pieces left one but even if I strung them together there wouldn't be enough for everything. I imagine Bill would send me more but he already replaced a busted shed frame and for the sake of a few pieces of 8x8 I will just visit my LHS.
Next step will be siding the shed, and slapping on the roof.
Thanks for looking.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1019 Go to Top of Page

drmsparks
Engine Wiper



Posted - 07/04/2017 :  11:03:24 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great to see your progress. I can't break ground till January (train room revisions / construction in progress till then) but you are using many of the techniques I want to use and learn.

Keep up the good work!



Country: USA | Posts: 108 Go to Top of Page
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