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 Scratchbuilt HOn30 Monson flats
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Author Previous Topic: wanted...HOn3 MDC Roundhouse steam loco parts Topic Next Topic: Minitrains Couplers
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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/15/2015 :  4:14:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here's the first flat I built using a set of jigs that I'll describe in the next couple of days.

The bracing for the car ends is (code 40) rail, just like the prototype. It's a good reason to keep those snippets of rail from track laying.

dave
Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7505

Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 06/15/2015 :  5:04:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks good, Dave.


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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/15/2015 :  5:14:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Like.

Nicely done, Dave!

Welcome to Two-Foot Nation!

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 6491 Go to Top of Page

jschumaker
Fireman



Posted - 06/15/2015 :  6:32:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking forward to seeing the jigs, Dave.

Jeff S.



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Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 06/15/2015 :  6:38:09 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jschumaker

Looking forward to seeing the jigs, Dave.

Jeff S.



Yes, me too. Would the jigs work for HOn3?

Nice job Dave.

Bernd



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hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/15/2015 :  6:40:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm also jumping on the bandwagon about viewing the jigs and seeing how you created/use them.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7124 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/16/2015 :  10:43:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm working from photos and sketch drawings in Peter Barney's Freight Equipment of the Other Two-Footers http://quickpicbooks.homestead.com/files/MaineOtherFreightCarsbook.html The prototype is Monson's 25' slate flatcars, that have slanted ends. (I think that slant was deliberate, rather than an effect from shifting loads.) The end stakes were often (but not always) cut from old rail.

First I created some scale drawings to work out the size of the stripwood parts against the overall look of the cars. I hate to admit I use PowerPoint for this kind of work; any drawing tool where you can explicitly set the length and width of a box object will work.


Here's the main jig:

This is constructed on a piece of 1/16 styrene, using bits and pieces from the styrene scrapbox. I cut test pieces of wood (side and end sills) and then added bits and pieces of styrene to hold them in place. (A full scrap box is essential for making jigs like these :-) The call-out boxes show the various parts of the jig. I'm cheap and reuse parts for multiple purposes.

The rough assembly sequence is as follows: 1. Cut 6 side sills a bit longer than they need to be. Square off one end of the set. Insert into the miter box jig and cut them all to length. 2. Insert a side sill into the stake pocket jig and drill the stake pocket holes. Do the same for the other external side sill. 3. Cut two end sills. 4. Insert an end sill and carefully drill the NBW holes for the truss rod ends. Repeat for the other end sill. 5. Place an end sill on the right hand side of the undercarriage jig. 6. Glue the side sills into place against that end sill. 7. Glue the other end sill. (I may add "sliding wedges" to help hold the right hand sill in place and add some pressure to the assembly.)

For decking, I'm cutting 1/32 scribe siding on my modeler table saw. Here's the jig I'm using to prevent tear-out.

The jig fits over top of the scribed siding, providing zero clearance so I don't get any tear-out on the scribed pieces.

After the decking is glued on the undercarriage, I use the other jig to drill the slanted holes. You can see the angle.

Here's how I cut that angle using my drill press. The styrene jig piece is held to the (laser cut kit scrap) with a piece of double-stick tape. (The angle here is not critical, I just messed with this until it looked about right.)


Although I did a mitre box on this jig for the side sills, I think I'll do a different jig and cut the side sills on the table saw. Getting 6 sills exactly the same length with square ends is a key to getting a strong model.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7505 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/16/2015 :  11:20:07 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
One more design note: I used a piece of scale 10x10 for the coupler and bolster area (center of the undercarriage). I'm strongly tempted to re-engineer to use a piece of styrene there, so I can drill and tap for couplers and trucks. And I'll do another jig (for either wood or styrene) to set the locations of the truck and coupler mounting screws.

Here's a photo of the undercarriage:


dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7505 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 06/16/2015 :  2:38:33 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Very nice Dave. Love that all in one jig.

Bernd



Country: USA | Posts: 3081 Go to Top of Page

jnj1097
Section Hand

Posted - 06/17/2015 :  06:54:57 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks great Dave! Looks like you used different wheels in the Grandt trucks, who are they made by?

Also, what stake pockets are you using?

Nice work...

Jeff



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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/17/2015 :  08:48:56 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm using Fox Valley N scale, wide tread, 36" wheelsets. They are a little loose in the Grandt trucks, but then so are the wheelsets that Grandt included in some of the truck sets I have. One difference is the Grandt wheelsets have square axles, while the Fox Valley trucks have the more common pointed axles. The stake pockets are 3D printed from Shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/product/CBENXBEHH?optionId=42783127&li=ostatus

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7505 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 06/17/2015 :  10:37:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I like that jig you designed, Dave.

George



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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/17/2015 :  10:41:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave,

Again, nicely done. I think your thought about making the bolsters from plastic to facilitate drilling, tapping and having everything work correctly the first time has a lot of merit.

Pete
in Michigan



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Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 06/17/2015 :  10:46:44 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dave,

Nice looking car. I've long thought those two-foot flats were pretty cool with the end stakes sticking up through the floor. When I did a bunch of flats a couple of decades ago I did a couple with stakes like that, but in standard gauge. I've since decided that was pretty rare in standard gauge so they are not at all accurate. Still, they are part of my MOW string of cars; I use them for ties.

I'll have to remember your jig next time I build some flats.

Good job all around.

Mike



_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 4814 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/17/2015 :  10:51:45 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Same jig would work for house cars, in fact I think Monson had some boxcars built on flatcar frames. For most boxcars, you'd have to adjust the size of things to account for the external sheaving.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7505 Go to Top of Page

jnj1097
Section Hand

Posted - 06/18/2015 :  09:26:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by deemery

I'm using Fox Valley N scale, wide tread, 36" wheelsets. They are a little loose in the Grandt trucks, but then so are the wheelsets that Grandt included in some of the truck sets I have. One difference is the Grandt wheelsets have square axles, while the Fox Valley trucks have the more common pointed axles. The stake pockets are 3D printed from Shapeways: https://www.shapeways.com/product/CBENXBEHH?optionId=42783127&li=ostatus

dave



I thought the stake pockets looked familiar... They are mine! I'm glad that they are getting used by someone.

Thanks for the information Dave. It looks great.

Jeff



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