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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/07/2017 :  11:44:37 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
We're just wrapping up a major kitchen renovation (refinishing wood floors starting tomorrow.) I feel your pain...

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7948 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 05/07/2017 :  11:45:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My condolences for your flood. I hate when reality interferes with fantasy and stops the fun.

It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5326 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 05/07/2017 :  12:32:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris sorry to hear of the flood.

Hope you get things back to normal quickly.

The updates look fantastic as usual.


Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 11833 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 05/07/2017 :  1:00:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, sorry to read about your mishap with your dishwasher.
On the upside, your bridge and colouring of it looks excellent.
As always keep up the great work that you do!

Greg Shinnie



Country: Canada | Posts: 8437 Go to Top of Page

Ray Dunakin
Fireman



Posted - 06/09/2017 :  01:35:19 AM  Show Profile  Visit Ray Dunakin's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Sorry to hear about the dishwasher disaster. I hope things get back to normal quickly.


Country: USA | Posts: 3235 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/09/2017 :  11:33:07 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks all for the best wishes. I'm just going to say that I still don't have a kitchen or laundry room floors, and that Murphy has now overstayed the visit.

Since this thread got bumped, I'll bring folks up to speed on my modeling.

-- I'm in the process of trying to make some innovative techniques for the simulation/coloring of rust and stain weathering streaking effects, primarily for application to plastic/styrene model projects. The military modeling weathering products tend to be enamel with acrylic washes applied over the enamel base. They also tend to use Mineral Spirits/Turpentine or a diluted acrylic binder to fix dry pigments. I'm trying to make modifications to the techniques which will provide easier/quicker application and stand up to the model handling present in our hobby.

-- I've been using a acrylic wash fixer and dry pigments/pastel powders for coloring of styrene and diorama ground color.

-- In an effort to bring increased metal coloring and metal effects on styrene, I've been playing with encaustic mediums. The military modeling tribe have used this methodology for metal simulations for some time, and there are weathering products available. I'm trying to figure out how to adopt the medium for use on models which get handled, like rolling stock.

--I've presented two clinics to area NMRA divisions and I'm modifying the Balsa Foam carving and coloring clinics for presentation at the Narrow Gauge convention in Denver. I'm on tap for four clinic sessions, so I'm trying to make the hands-on clinics work for groups of 20 folks.

-- I also need to create a 49 square inch piece of scenery to cover a hole in one of the end loops for the slim-rails modules for display at the Narrow Gauge convention. Still in the planning stages...

-- Been doing a bit of ad hoc modeling on the mill and bridge, but I have to increase the focus in these projects. Again, I'm documenting in the background but need to present in this thread. The presentation takes more time than the actual modeling.

Anyway, I'm really hoping to have a few more New techniques to share soon.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 06/09/2017 11:36:33 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 7212 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 06/09/2017 :  8:41:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris thanks for the update.

Thought maybe you fell down the mine shaft!!


Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 11833 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/03/2017 :  1:48:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Not a lot of pictures to post now, but I'm redoing the construction of the bridge stringers and tie deck. I didn't follow the construction instructions and attached the ties to both the inside and outside stringers thinking that I could modify the construction later. Isn't going to work, thus the redo. I will use the existing deck at a later time for a open deck bridge.

For the replacement bridge, I'm using the same weathering and coloring techniques described earlier.

I also updated the reference section at the beginning of the thread with a bridge reference which may be of value to some modelers in all scales. http://kettlevalleymodelrailway.blogspot.com/2016/01/bridge-details.html

Also, NMRA members need to reference the bridge construction specification sheet on the NMRA site. Lots of good info.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 10/03/2017 1:49:27 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7212 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/03/2017 :  2:49:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
As I didn't have any 7x9x16 pine ties available (Kappler KP00SS16-HO ties http://kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-ho-ties.htm ) I used HO 8x8 strips cut to length for my ties.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7212 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/13/2017 :  2:44:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Added to 'References' on page 1, Steam piping scratch built under Mill Details the following link:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=42339


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7212 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/03/2019 :  8:07:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I first want to acknowledge that there has been a protracted period which I have not formally worked on this project, but I have placed this build back on my desk, so let's get this structure/diorama completed. I will note however, that this structure, even though not complete, has been to multiple railroad shows, clinics and some NMRA Division meetings where the structure has been passed around and handled extensively. In addition, the structure has been intentionally dropped repeatedly from waist level to show the durability of Balsa Foam. The only real damage the structure has experienced is a couple of glass window sheets have fallen out of the clerestory windows. I have not been able to effect repairs due to how I attached and weathered the clerestory.

Chimney Castings

The Blazek plans http://blazeksplan.com show two (2) brick chimneys mounted in the mill's main roof. The following is how the chimney castings were colored and mounted to the mill's main roof.

Prepare and color the castings:
Materials:
A) Model Masterpieces Ltd. D&RG Durango Chimney #308 (2 castings)
B) Drill handle and 1/16th inch bit
C) Toothpicks
D) Flat file for metal
E) Rust-Oleum Automotive Primer - Gray
F) Vallejo Model Color Burnt Cad #70814
G) Vallejo Model Color Flat Brown #70984
H) Vallejo Model Color Black-Red #70859
I) Light A-I wash (1 tsp non-waterproof black ink per pint Isopropyl Alcohol 91% (ETOH))
J) Tensocrom Lifecolor Smoke #208
K) CC Crow Pre-Mixed Brick Mortar Mix http://www.builders-in-scale.com/bis/parts-weather.html (or) Acrylic Gesso and a dark black toned pastel powder.
L) Soft pastel stick Schemike Neutral Gray #098075
M) 220 grit sandpaper
N) Acrylic Airbrush Liquid Medium (optional)
O) Rust-All product clear matte medium.

The Model Masterpieces Durango brick chimney #308 is a soft metal casting. These castings are a close match for the chimneys shown on the plans. The castings provide the roof with a larger short chimney and provide a 'heavy' appearance.

1) Clean the castings of flash using a #11 knife and dental probe/scraper. Make sure to smooth and/or re-carve the casting seam as needed.
2) Drill a 1/16th inch hole in the bottom of the casting. This hole will have a toothpick press-fitted which will provide a handle for holding the casting during painting.
3) Fit the chimneys to the mill roof, filing the bottom of the casting to fit the mill roof's slope. Make sure the chimneys are vertical on all four sides.
4) Lightly scrub the chimney castings with soap and a toothbrush to remove any excess metal filings and grease. Soak the chimney castings in ETOH overnight to complete the removal of all grease. I actually soaked my castings for a full week.
5) After inserting the toothpick handles, prime the castings with Rust-Olum Auto Primer (grey) from a rattle can. Allow the primed castings to dry for a full day.
6) Paint all brick surfaces with Vallejo Burnt Cad. using a semi-dry brush technique. Hold the casting at a pronounced angle to the brush, and using lightly pressured strokes, apply paint to all the brick surfaces. When properly done, only the brick faces will be painted leaving the gray primer showing in the mortar lines. Using a #2 flat brush with short synthetic hair will make the process of painting just the brick faces easier to accomplish.


Chimneys showing the semi-dry brushed brick faces colored red and the gray primer mortar lines.

7) Using a #1 sable round or liner, recolor individual bricks at random. This additional recoloring of some of the individual brick faces with the same red color will color the bricks so the bricks will appear slightly different in hue when dry. I colored approximately 15% of the bricks individually in this step.
8) I then picked out a few bricks on each chimney side to color with Vallejo Flat Brown.
9) Color a few more individual bricks on each chimney side with Vallejo Black-Red.
10) Finally, pick out a couple of bricks on each chimney face to color with Vallejo Model Color Cork Brown. Allow your castings to cure dry, at least couple of days is recommended. Note that the castings need to 'cure' dry, not just 'touch' dry, otherwise you will have various paints smeared and exposed primer in the next step(s). Do not be concerned that your brick castings look like a sick leopard at this point. Some of the strong color differences will diminish in the drying process and the remaining strong color differences will be blended/resolved in the next steps.


Castings after individual bricks have been painted with the various colors. Note the majority of bricks are only colored in the previous step. Note also that only the face of the individually colored bricks are painted, keeping the paint out of the mortar lines.

11) Submerge the castings into a mixed light A-I wash. Give a light stir and remove the casting. Lightly tap the casting on a paper towel to remove excess stain. Set aside to dry.
12) Add a 'primer' coat of soot to the inside of the chimney castings. I used Tensocrom Lifecolor Smoke. An alternative to the Tensocrom product would be to use an acrylic black paint with a dusting of black or soot weathering powder/pastel over the damp acrylic paint. Set the castings aside to dry.

I still was not satisfied with the look of the chimney castings. The very fine mortar lines between the bricks were too dark in color and the chimney's still looked like they were getting over a case of chicken-pox. The brick surfaces did not have the light gull-gray 'wash' look of weathered brick.


Castings after A-I wash dip. Note the dark mortar lines and lack of 'grayish' surface of the bricks which defines older used brick.

Clearly some medium representing mortar was called for. As I could not find my pre-mixed scale mortar mix product from CC Crow http://www.builders-in-scale.com/bis/parts-weather.html I decided to try a different blending of mediums to capture the effect I wanted. I chose to try a bit of finely powdered pastel mixed with a bit of acrylic gesso. Note that one **would not** want to use a weathering powder in this application as the adhesive in the weathering powder could make too much of the powder adhere to the brick facing and/or make the removal of the colored weathering powder difficult. With a soft pastel, only a damp rag and light touch would be required to remove excess pastel powder from the brick surfaces.

13) Using a #2 1/4 inch synthetic hair flat brush, I used a couple (2-3) full brush loads of acrylic gesso as the base. To the gesso, I added about 1/8th teaspoon of Schemike Neutral Gray soft pastel #098075. I sanded the pastel into a powder with 220 grit sandpaper prior to adding the pastel to the acrylic gesso. The gesso and pastel powder were mixed well to create a light gull gray color.
14) I added two (2) drops of acrylic airbrush medium to the pastel-gesso mix for a added bit of binder. This would be an optional step/addition.
15) The chimney castings were coated with the pastel-gesso mix. All four sides of the chimney were brushed using light brush pressure and moving the brush in both vertical and horizontal directions (not circular brush strokes). Use a minimal amount of brush strokes as excessive strokes will remove the brick coloring, especially affecting the sharp brick edges of the casting(s).
16) Using a damp (clear water) folded/wadded paper towel corners, lightly wipe away the excess pastel-gesso mix from the castings. This should expose the large brick surfaces and their coloring.
17) Allow the castings to air dry about 5-10 minutes. The castings will obtain a light gray wash effect as the castings dry.
18) Quickly dip the castings into a liquid clear matte medium. I used the Rust-All product clear matte medium. You may use a similar product, but avoid solvent based mediums such as Dull-Coat. Just dip and remove the castings. Do not let the colored casting sit in the clear matte medium. Allow the castings to cure dry.
19) Using Lifecolor Smoke paint, flood the interior of the chimney opening and floor with the paint. I used a 1/4 inch synthetic flat brush with a rolling motion of the brush to color the interior opening of the chimney. Pull the brush over the sharp chimney opening edges, removing excess paint from the brush and a excess deposit of paint on the interior top edge of the opening.
20) Remove most of the remaining paint from the brush by rinsing the brush in clear water 3 or 4 times, wiping the brush on a pad between rinses.
21) Load the brush with clear water and lightly tap the brush on a rag to unload excess. Lightly pull the brush across the top edges of the chimney openings to deposit a bit of excess a water on the outside of the chimney. Use your thumb or finger to lightly pull the excess water partly down the chimney sides. Blend the bit of excess smoke paint onto the chimney sides. Put the chimneys aside to dry. NOTE: If you get excess water all the way down the chimney, let it remain. Do not remove excess water/paint from the base of the chimney. This will produce a bit of pronounced weathering/soot around the chimney base.


Chimneys showing a more weathered brick with the mortar lines a more appropriate hue.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 12/03/2019 8:20:33 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7212 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 12/03/2019 :  9:19:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, nice to see this thread back up, and you working on it once again!
Also nice to read that many modellers have witnessed the durability of "Balsa Foam" from you intentionally dropping it from waist height.
You must have had some surprised looks from your audience watching your demonstration.
Your latest demonstration regarding painting chimneys, has given you outstanding results!

Greg Shinnie



Country: Canada | Posts: 8437 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 12/04/2019 :  12:03:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wonderful to see you back at the bench and working on this favorite again.

Now on to the chimneys love the color and weathering you achieved.

Thanks for a great tutorial on how to do this.

For me your rurorials are so precise and so well written.

I'm sure there are many modelers learning a lot of new skills from your work. Thanks.



Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 11833 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 12/04/2019 :  08:13:42 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Kris,

Surfed through a few earlier pages to look at your wall making techniques. Quite well described. Going to have to try your method sometime in the future.

Those chimneys look great. Nice SBS on them. Going to have to go back over this build thread to see what more I can learn.

Bernd



Country: USA | Posts: 3372 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 12/04/2019 :  5:02:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the information. The Chimneys look good. Nice to see this tread continue. Since you lost some window glazing perhaps you can model some broken planes?

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5326 Go to Top of Page
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