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 New York Mill - Modeled in Balsa Foam
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Carl B

Premium Member

Posted - 02/21/2017 :  3:40:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Kris...get well soon!

That stripwood drying rack is great. I have to put that on my "when I'm retired" list of things to do! (Only 4 months away)....

Country: USA | Posts: 3790 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 03/14/2017 :  5:23:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well, just a short note to address my reduced posting activity.

As some of the forum members know, I'm currently experiencing a major set-back in my health. I'm having to postpone the required surgeries which 'may' allow me to sit/stand at a workbench. This is due to the high-risk post-surgical issues. I've worked with 4 surgeons and 3 hemotologist in an effort over the past year plus, but all teams,
including my cancer surgeon are saying that the benefits probably do not warrent the very high risks.

Bottom line is that due to the severe discomfort while trying to model, my future postings will probably continue to be sporadic. (And I just got a dedicated studio to work in.)

NOT looking for any shoulders to cry on, but just addressing the current situation of my not posting in the usual manner as expected.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 03/14/2017 5:27:50 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7237 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 03/14/2017 :  6:13:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow, that's a shame! Hopefully your health will improve over time. (If you're still able to sit at the computer, I'd suggest you consider taking your posts on this build and turning them into a series of articles for a model RR magazine.)


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8418 Go to Top of Page

Carl B

Premium Member

Posted - 03/14/2017 :  6:46:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
...I was somehow unaware of the severity of your health issues...

please accept my best wishes for a speedy recovery.

I have missed your contributions and comments to the forum.

Country: USA | Posts: 3790 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 03/14/2017 :  6:55:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, just get well please.

For contributing to my enjoyment of this hobby, thank you and don't stop.

Bob Harris

Country: USA | Posts: 5651 Go to Top of Page

Frederic Testard

Premium Member

Posted - 03/14/2017 :  7:13:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, my wishes go to you too.

Country: France | Posts: 17652 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill

Posted - 03/14/2017 :  7:42:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, best wishes for improved situation.

Country: USA | Posts: 3040 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 03/14/2017 :  10:14:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, I'm sorry to read about your set-back in health.
I hope that your situation will improve sooner than later.
Keep up your spirits, and focus on being well again.
Your New York Mill, will still be here when your ready to return.
And so will we!

Greg Shinnie

Country: Canada | Posts: 8784 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 03/14/2017 :  10:30:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jeepers Kris, my phone was buzzing all afternoon, thought you had written a novel again, but we can wait. Sorry to hear of your current health issues. Hope you have a speedy recovery and are soon able to build again soon. I miss the great posts.

Country: USA | Posts: 4588 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn

Posted - 03/14/2017 :  10:32:28 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote

You have my best wishes for a return to health.


Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 6332 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 03/15/2017 :  12:06:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good luck Kris', all the best of wishes to you'.
for a speedy recovery'...Sure miss your posts'. but we'll be waiting right here for you when you're back in full action'..


Country: USA | Posts: 6043 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 03/15/2017 :  11:31:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, Sorry to hear about your continued health issues. Here's hoping for a speedy and complete
recovery for you. We will all wait for your return because we need you and your modeling skills here
on the Forum.



Country: USA | Posts: 4025 Go to Top of Page

Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/15/2017 :  3:43:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wishing you the best, Kris!


Country: Ireland | Posts: 386 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 04/06/2017 :  4:54:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks all for the 'Best Wishes'. They are appreciated.

Let's get back to the modeling...

I'd first like to note that I have added a reference for those building this bridge and would like to see a detailed build done by another person. Mark Paulson has build the kit in On30, but he has lots on interesting ideas and techniques which can be applied. I strongly recommend taking a few moments and reviewing his build at https://markpaulson.wordpress.com/page/19

Copy Plans:
My next step was to copy the kit plans. I went a copy shop to have access to higher quality machines than my home printer. The copy machines at a professional copy shop have copy machines which hold the plan dimensions in register better and can make cleaner lines than my home printer.

As I'm working with relative small dimensions and precut stripwood, I did not make scale dimension marks on the plans prior to making copies. I often mark a 30 or 50 foot scale in both the vertical and horizontal planes on the plans prior to making copies. This allows me to identify and make adjustments for copy errors. I made 3 sets of plans to work with.

Project Goals:
1) Focus on using inks for the base coloring of the project and primary weathering of the structure.
2) As the bridge will be a foreground model and bridges tend to attract the viewer's eye, coloring and weathering will be the focus with accents on subtle coloring/weathering to enhance structure viewing.
3) Use Balsa Foam to create bridge stone abutments and possibly some concrete walls along the creek bank.

Prep and Cut Stringers:
1) Add heavy grain texture to both sides of the stripwood with a file card http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nicholson-File-Cleaner-21455L/202080321?MERCH=REC-_-rv_nav_plp_rr-_-NA-_-202080321-_-N using heavy pressure.
2) Cut the individual stringer stripwood to the correct length, making sure all stringers are cut to a uniform length. Remove the red stained ends when cutting the stringers to length. The use of a Northwest Shortline Chopper III http://nebula.wsimg.com/8b3d4d5a1a33b190b3d5e4521e9c9950?AccessKeyId=08BEE66B97B387F20C0D&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 makes this an easy task.

3) Use a stiff wire brush to dress both ends of each stringer. http://www.micromark.com/Stainless-Steel-Wire-Brushes-Set-of-2 Use 3 or 4 passes of the brush from the flat surface onto & over the wood end to about 1/2 inch past the wood end. Do one end, spin the wood 180 and dress the opposite end. Flip the wood over so the second side is up and repeat the process of dressing both ends.
4) Verify all stringers are of uniform length. Replace any stringers which may be too short.
5) Verify the addition of any 'add-on' item to the bridge by reviewing all items in the scrap box. Consider any construction issues and make build adjustments as necessary.
6) No knothole detail was included in the stringers as it probably would not be seen. If you want knothole details in the stringers, now is the time to add the enhancement.
7) GP-sand (Reference page one of this thread if needed for a definition of GP-sand.)

Color Stringers:
I chose to stain the wood using the staining solution and base technique created by Jerry (Trains1941). Reference the following link for a discussion of the stain mix and application techniques. http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45405&whichpage=1

I went to mix up a batch of stain per Jerry's notes and found that my brown leather dye and leaked (in a plastic bag thank God) during my last move. I thus ended up using a mix from a prior build. This mix has a light orange hue which I'll control with a A-I wash or Silverwood wash. The color of my stain when applied to the wood is very similar to the middle or mid-wash of the Hardwood Maple Stain found on Dr. Ben's website. http://www.debenllc.com/Hardwood-Maple-Weathering-Stain-4oz-Doctor-Bens-Scale-Consortium_p_28.html

1) Using a Q-tip (works better than a foam cosmetic applicator for this application) apply stain to the individual stringers. Apply the stain to all four faces of the individual stringers. Note that the Q-tip will tend to 'grab' when going against the wood grain and will slide a bit smoother when applied with the wood grain. Rub in the direction with the least amount of 'grab', so that you are applying the stain with the grain of the wood.
2) Place the stringers on edge to dry.
3) I found that applying more than one coat of stain will provide better coloring of the stringers. I applied 3 coats of stain, allowing the stringers to thoroughly dry between stain applications.
4) Rub each stringer with #0000 steel wool using light pressure to smooth the wood and remove any wood or cotton fuzzies.

As I have noted in the past, the first item noted by the viewer of the model is the finish. Thus, I spend a lot of time focused on the finish appearance of my work.

I realize that most 'layout' modelers do not have the large sums of time to invest in structure building, so a quick monotone finish will get a expeditious mop wash of A-I, and if lucky, the structure may get a bit of dry brushing.

Well, Jerry's coloring technique will provide a improved and enhanced finished appearance while taking just a bit more time than the quick A-I mop wash.

As I'm still unpacking my modeling supplies (yea, I know it's a year later!) I could not easily access my Driftwood Stains currently. Thus, I opted for an alternative medium to add some black-gray color tones to the stringers.

My solution was the use of a watercolor wash. (Not a tempera or gouache paint as both are opaque.) I used a Dr. Ph. Martin Stone Gray Transparent water color wash. https://www.docmartins.com/collections/synchromatic-transparent-bottles

I used a Stone Gray which provided the 'black' as well as some of the gray tone highlight coloring of the stringers. As the stringers are mostly hidden from sunlight and elements, I opted for more of the dark and black tones. As I move to upper bridge components, which are more exposed to the elements, I'll move more towards the gray hued highlights.

I believe that my technique/method will take about the same amount of time as Jerry's process, but my technique may be a bit more forgiving in the highlight coloring of the wood.

5) I used Dr. Ph. Martins Transparent Water Color Stone Gray #31 applied via paper towel dry-brushing. My paper towel dry brushing technique is a bit different from Jerry's however.
6) I folded a paper towel up into a dabber for my index finger. I then soaked the 'dabber' with water.
7) 1 to 3 drops of watercolor solution was then placed on the dabber pad.
8) The dabber was then pressed onto an old business card to remove excess moisture and watercolor.
9) I then stippled the stringers at random using the dabber. Then, with all of the stringers in a group and on a flat surface, I rubbed the stringers with medium to heavy pressure to impart additional coloring and blend the edges of the earlier stippled spots.
10) Both sides of the stringers were treated with the watercolor.
11) The stringers were set aside to dry.

I need to go to a railroad club meeting tonight, so I'll continue with the stringer build tomorrow.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 04/06/2017 6:24:06 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7237 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 04/06/2017 :  6:23:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Kris, nice to see you back here working again!
I hope this signals, that your feeling better!

Greg Shinnie

Country: Canada | Posts: 8784 Go to Top of Page
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