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jbvb
Fireman
Premium Member
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 Posted - 01/19/2014 : 09:00:10 AM
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Plans for a number of Reading RR steel passenger cars were published in the Nov. 1984 Model Railroader. I've got some info on the 70 foot arch roof PBn coaches and CVi combines the B&M purchased used in 1946 and 1952 here:
http://www.faracresfarm.com/jbvb/rr/bmrr/passenger.html
I built 3 of BCW's kits years ago, but now as I'm getting ready for operations, I need more commuter consists.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6801 |
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jbvb
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/19/2014 : 10:14:00 AM
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I had brought this coach kit along on a trip some time back. I got the body assembled but hadn't brought references for the details.
This weekend I've been asked to do "build models and talk to people" as part of the Hub Division setup at the Wenham (MA) Museum. The lighting in the room we're using is decent, so yesterday I got almost all the details applied: side and end grabs, roof ventilators and low-voltage DC train lighting conduit, battery box and simple brake gear. It's the most common B&M configuration, with conventional vestibules, six roof vents and diaphragms (not yet applied for painting convenience).
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6801 |
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jbvb
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 02/01/2014 : 08:57:20 AM
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The way I applied the .033 brass wire for the train-lighting conduit drew some interest at the B&M get-together at W. Springfield, so:
I drilled angled holes to match prototype pictures. I've had problems in the past because styrene and brass expand at different rates with temperature changes. This has been enough to pull glue joints loose, so I drill the roof #80 on either side and tie the conduit down with single strands from old electrical cords twisted together inside. A friend says he's finding this useful in putting brass details on a plastic steam loco boiler.
I seem to recall earlier versions of this kit having plastic steps. But these are metal, so I attached them with Walthers Goo. One kit had a step opening that was larger than the step, the other was a decent fit. Grab irons are all applied, and I need to buy a vial of quality #79 drills - I've broken 3 or 4 on these two cars where my quality #80s make dozens of holes.
When I build another (two untouched in the kit box stack) I will ream or tap the truck screw holes - I sheared one of the supplied screws off last night. I was hoping to airbrush this during the weekend's relatively warm weather, so I guess I'd better get cracking with my set of left-hand-twist drills.
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Country: USA
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Dutchman
Administrator
Premium Member
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Posted - 02/01/2014 : 09:31:41 AM
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Interesting, James.
I don't think that many modelers realize that it isn't just wood and cardstock that react to changes in heat and humidity in the layout room.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 33279 |
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jbvb
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 02/03/2014 : 10:46:59 PM
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I haven't ever needed to get a broken-off screw out of styrene. I tried drilling it, but I couldn't center-punch a starting hole. So, in the spirit of "when you have a hammer, all your problems look like nails", I put the body in the milling machine vise and used a nice sharp 3/16" 4-flute end mill to remove the screw and everything around it.
Conveniently, I had a piece of 3/16" sprue around, from the color probably from another BCW kit. This photo also shows the steps Goo'ed in place. The cars are ready for paint, but I didn't get to it over the weekend, maybe Thursday.
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| Posts: 6801 |
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Orionvp17
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 02/18/2014 : 9:36:23 PM
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James,
This is looking good. I concur with the buy the bits in bulk philosophy, too. Mine don't break until there's a raging blizzard outdoors, and then I'm "good" for at least two.... 
The wire tip is a good one. Thanks for dragging it from the depths of my memory! I'm all over it! 
Pete
in Michigan
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Country: USA
| Posts: 7528 |
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dave1905
Fireman
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Posted - 02/19/2014 : 09:10:37 AM
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OBTW, if the doors are closed the traps will be down so there will be a "floor" in the step well.
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Dave Husman
Iron Men and wooden cars
Visit my website : www.wnbranch.com |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1178 |
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jbvb
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 02/19/2014 : 1:14:01 PM
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True, Dave, but these are headed for the commuter fleet. For all the passenger cars I've built, nothing I've done yet is really contest-worthy - only a few interiors, none complete. That will have to change if I ever want the AP certificate.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6801 |
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jbvb
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 02/23/2014 : 12:17:17 PM
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Spread out over last week I airbrushed the roofs Floquil Grimy Black, the underbodies Weathered Black and the sides AccuPaint Passenger Maroon. That last was kind of tired, so I wound up diluting it 1:1 with lacquer thinner to get it through my airbrush.
Friday I hammered old tire weights to fit between the center sills and applied KitBits #95A trucks. The MR drawings show 8' wheelbase and 13' over the beams. The BCW trucks match the dimensions, but are longer than the Overland trucks I'd used on earlier RDG cars. They didn't swing cleanly using either molded-in pivot hole, so I drilled #50 between the two holes; this seems to work but I won't know for sure till I install couplers.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6801 |
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Orionvp17
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 02/28/2014 : 9:33:40 PM
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Nice progress, James!
Pete
in Michigan
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Country: USA
| Posts: 7528 |
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AVRR-PA
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 03/01/2014 : 07:11:41 AM
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Lookin' good!
Don
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Glen Haasdyk
Fireman
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Posted - 03/05/2014 : 11:42:55 PM
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I agree. I like the maroon color. I wish I could get it here.
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Country: Canada
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Nelson458
Fireman
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Posted - 03/06/2014 : 05:13:27 AM
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James,
Your doing a fantastic job. The tire weights was a good idea.
May I ask, what kind of air brush are you using?
Thanks,
Tony
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Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene |
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jbvb
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 03/06/2014 : 07:15:46 AM
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Tony, I have a Paasche H. The tire weights take considerable time to hammer out, which is why A-Line sells quite a bit of their "moldable lead".
Glen, some B&M modelers use either E-L Maroon or Wisconsin Central Maroon. I see Scalecoat has the latter, but they aren't shipping to Canada either. Which is too bad, as I have some of the special colors they did for the CN SIG a few years ago. I see they also have a B&M Maroon, which I will have to try. You aren't that far from the US, but I suppose once in the US you might have to drive to Spokane for a hobby shop.
I need to get back to this, since all that's left is two evenings with decals and airbrush sessions for the dull varnish and weathering. But scenery has beckoned.
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Edited by - jbvb on 03/07/2014 2:39:35 PM |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6801 |
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jbvb
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 03/07/2014 : 11:46:09 AM
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Decals are on, but only after I walked the yards and checked the storage boxes for the numbers of my previous cars in this series:
These are 1401 and 1432. This picture also makes it clear how differently I located the roof vents. There were variations, but I don't think I'll show off the closer spacing to the B&M RRHS. Tomorrow's warmer weather will make applying the dull varnish and weathering more pleasant.
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Orionvp17
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 03/07/2014 : 12:17:56 PM
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Nicely done, James, compromises and all. They look good.
Pete
in Michigan
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Country: USA
| Posts: 7528 |
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