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hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/16/2013 :  11:49:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is a HO scale scratch build using plans from Pat Harriman's book "Early Wood Frame and Stone Structures". This is a build of the fourth plan in the book, Seth's Cabin.
-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7124

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/17/2013 :  12:20:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Additional Sandbox Build Threads:
Small Miner's Cabin: (HO Scale)
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40225&whichpage=1
-- Base hues for wood coloring
-- Carving Plaster Castings
-- Coloring Plaster Castings for Colorado Clear Creek area.
-- Mortar line coloring in plaster cast stone walls.
-- Faded/worn paint on individual boards

Colin's Cabin: (HO Scale)
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40355
-- Base Yellow-Orange Hues for Wood Coloring.
-- Verifying Coloring Plaster Castings for Colorado Clear Creek area.
-- Simulated Concrete Using Stripwood and Mortar Line Coloring Mix.
-- Leadville, Colorado: pictures of Scandinavian Influence on Structures
-- Dry-Brushing with Builders-in-Square Yellow Wood Stain.
-- Coloring and Install of Laser-Cut window Products vs. Styrene Window Castings

Lucas's Cabin: (HO Scale)
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40591
-- Clapboard siding how-to.
-- Quick and effective clapboard coloring technique.
-- Obtaining grey-blue 'haze' on corrugated roofing.
-- 'Defines' of brush staining and wood graining techniques.

INTRO AND THREAD GOALS:
I want to try using some construction and weathering techniques which are new, at least to myself, or which I want to modify to fit my modeling style. I feel that prior to continuing on to some craftsman kits and continuing a major project, I want to increase my wood weathering skills and stone carving/coloring techniques. Building some structures from Pat's plans will provide the opportunity to expand my skill sets and test different techniques.

As I'm using the build to test/play with techniques, I will not be constructing the structure as suggested in Harriman's book.

I will attempt to show/describe:
-- The effect or technique which I want to achieve or try out.
-- How I approached the effect/technique(s), what tools I used and in what order so that others may be able to reproduce the effect(s) should one wish to capture the effect or try out the technique.
-- The results of the various attempts, and what I think I may want to consider for the future.

My overall goal is to create a notebook for future reference. I hope the notebook will also contain your thoughts and suggestions as that will only add perspective to the notes.

I will not be building the structure to my usual standards as these builds will be in the sandbox. As such, I'll be building the models only to layout or front of layout quality. I probably will not keep any of the models, but will donate the completed structures or mini-dioramas to a few local clubs.


Technique Defines:
In the first two sandbox threads, the documentation format has made it difficult visually and I restated various techniques multiple times. I will now only refer to a given technique by name and define the technique only once in the 'Defines'.

Tools and Techniques
This will become a subset of steps within the general construction sequence. The "Tools and Technique" header will indicate a new process or technique for future reference. The new or modified process will be denoted by using a letter following the general construction sequence number. For example:
Roof
1) Color sub-roof material with marker.
2) Measure and cut sub-roof.
Tools and Techniques
3a) Use new ACME corner cutter to cut sub-roof template.
4b) Squash coyote with roof underside to avoid coloring of top side.
5) Draw shingle row guidelines.

Lid Stain
1) Wire brush cut wood ends on both surfaces.
2) Stain stripwood cut ends with only minor wicking of stain solution.
3) Control the volume of stain applied by using only the stain remaining in the lid after shaking the solution bottle. It may be necessary to tilt the lid to obtain some of the solution.
4) Dip the wood into the stain and then pull the piece of wood between the forefinger and thumb, applying moderate pressure. Pull the wood with the fingers pinching the wood from the middle of the wood piece towards the end. This will pull the stain to the end of the wood piece.

For the following two techniques apply wash using brush hairs by ferrule to control volume of wash applied. (Use brush hairs between lines in drawing below.)



Brush Top - Pull
1) Use the brush hairs by the ferrule to control the amount of stain applied.
2) Load the brush with wash.
3) Lightly tap on paper towel to unload excessive stain.
4) Lightly touch brush hairs just below ferrule to wood piece and pull brush placing stain on the edge with extra stain going onto the surface opposite of pull.

Brush Top - Roll
1) Load brush with stain.
2) Lightly tap on paper towel to unload excessive stain.
3) Lightly lay brush hairs just below ferrule on wood edge and roll the brush to deposit the stain.
4) This allows some control of with amount of wicking by length of time in contact with the wood, the amount of brush pressure and the amount of wash loaded in the brush.

e-sand
Use emery board to sand object. Emery board may be cut to fit sanding need.

GP-sand
Use green paint and varnish stripper pad or kitchen scrub pad to sand surface. Fold or cut pad as needed.

sand
Standard sanding techniques using a sanding block, Northwest Shortline Tru-Sander, sanding wand or small 4-inch power sander such as a Jarmac.

Grain wood
1) Apply following to both surfaces of wood pieces.
2) Use file card or stiff welders wire brush (wire bristles stiffer than wire paint scraping brush) to add grain to wood. Draw, never push, the wood under the tool with medium pressure.
3) Use a brass or steel wire brush to add additional grain texture.
4) Scribe a few longer grain lines with tip of #11 blade.
5) Sand with green abrasive pad.

Polish wood
Use photo copy paper or emery board for baby finger nails to sand object lightly.

Brush ends
1)All stripwood surfaces or both sides of stripwood are held on flat surface.
2) Hold piece(s) flat on surface to to the cut end.
3) Use medium pressure and 6-8 strokes of a wire brush.
4) Brush needs to go from all bristles on flat surface onto wood end, going about 1/4 inch past the cut wood end.
5) Lid stain ends with light A-I wash or Silverwood unless otherwise noted.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/17/2013 12:26:12 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 7124 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/17/2013 :  12:25:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Build Goals:
1) Study in using Prismacolor markers instead of stains/washes to color stripwood. I want to review coloring of the wood, along with some additional accent weathering with soft pastels when using Prismacolor markers on very small pieces of stripwood such as HO scale 2x2's.
2) Use of colored graphite pencils in the coloring of paper edges when using rolled roofing to cover a roof.
3) Use of liquid Dullcoat on styrene tubing to create a scale heavy rust when using soft pastels. Two different rusting techniques using soft pastels will be used to rust the smokestack. When dry, they will be evaluated to ascertain if one technique will provide a better heavy rust in scale.
4) Possibly review how well defined scale wood forms (board slats) will show in a poured concrete foundation/wall when using Plaster of Paris (POP) as the molding medium.

Basic Construction:
-- HO scale board-by-board with bats over a mat board template. (Matboard: Cresent Mfg.# 948. Two sides colored; beige/white)
-- Attached roof will be covered with a rolled roofing paper product with paper edges colored using pencil instead of my usual charcoal.
-- One window in the structure will be a laser cut product colored using Prismacolor markers.
-- Scratch built door.
-- Possible use of Plaster of Paris foundation to mimic a poured concrete wall.
-- Styrene tubing joined in an extended 'L' to create an external smokestack with a 90 degree joint.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/17/2013 12:42:31 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 7124 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/17/2013 :  02:19:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Templates/Sub-walls
Material:
A) Mat-board: Cresent Mfg.# 948. Two sides colored; beige/white.

1) Cut out piece of mat-board which is easily managed on the work desk from the larger hunk of mat-board if needed. Make sure to keep edges square if possible.
2) Cut pieces of of mat-board to create the four walls. Transfer the plan dimensions to the mat-board via the dividers. When cutting out the walls, note which walls will be on the inside edge per your cuts. Mark the tan side of either the end or side walls so that you remember which way you cut out the sub-wall templates.
3) Using a #17 blade, cut out the door and window openings in the front wall. Again, transfer dimensions as needed from the plans using dividers. Note that you will want to keep the top of the door opening even with the top of the window opening. Don't worry about the door opening being taller than 6 foot as the door will be scratch built. Make sure to make any necessary adjustments to the window opening if you are using a window casting other than the casting used in the plans.
4) Lightly sand all of the sides of the mat-board remove any bevel cuts. When sanding, hold the two opposing walls together so the tan side of the mat-board is together. This will provide you with mirror walls as the tan side of the mat-board will become the interior of the cabin.
5) Review the four walls making sure everything is square and the two end walls have the same roof angle. Also verify that the end wall roof angle mates at the correct height on the side walls.

Well, the hard part of the project is over!

Grain and Color the Siding
Material:
-- Kappler 12 inch lengths scale strip wood:
A) 2x12 (7) (I used 2x12 instead of 1x12 for ease of handling.)
B) Prismacolor marker French Grey 50% #PM-159

6) Grain the strip wood using the technique you like to use. I prefer to use a file cleaning card to create the grain as it does not create uniform grain marks like a razor saw and some other tools.
7) Use a green pad to sand the strip wood. 4/0 or 6/0 steel wool can also be used, but I am not sure of fine steel wool threads hanging around the magnets of locos on the layout, thus my use of the green pad. A sponge sanding pad can also be used, but my fingers get sore. For myself, I have found that a tack cloth leaves a film and does not fully remove the 'fuzzies'.
8) Color the strip wood using the broad tip of the Prismacolor marker. I did not worry about the edges of the strip wood as I will be covering the 2x12 siding joints with battens. I used 3 or more passes on each side of the strip wood. I sometimes just went back-and-fourth on about 1/4 of the length of the strip wood a few times. You will see the stain pattern develop as you wipe the wood with the marker.
9) Allow all pieces of strip wood to dry.

Cut and affix wood siding to sub-walls
10) Using a NorthWest Short Line Chopper II, I cut the strip wood into lengths to be applied to the mat-board sub-wall. The strip wood was cut to the length of the wall height at the roof peak plus a bit more for tweezers to hold onto. I cut all of the wood prior to starting my siding application.
11) Using a 1/2 inch wood guide glued to a glass surface plate, I placed the wall base against the wood guide. Then using a 2-inch angle plate against the sub-wall side and wood guide, I glued the first piece of siding into place making sure that siding was flush with the vertical and horizontal edges of the mat-board. I used a clear 4" plastic 45/90 triangle to press the piece of siding into place. This insured that the siding was being glued into place at a 90 degree angle to the wall base. Elmers yellow interior wood glue was used to glue the all siding to the mat-board.
12) After allow a few minutes for the glue to catch, I glued additional pieces of siding to the mat-board making sure each piece was tightly butted up against the prior piece and vertical on the wall via the triangle. Any small amount of glue weeping through the joints between the siding pieces was removed with a toothpick. Excess siding was allowed to overhang the top edge of the wall.
13) Once the wall was totally covered with siding, it was set aside under some weight to dry overnight.
14) The remaining walls had the siding glued into place using the same methods as the first wall. The front wall with the door and window openings had siding applied over the openings. The last siding board applied to the end walls went past the wall edge just a bit. This excess overhang will be removed at a later time.
15) Once the glue had dried, the walls were placed with the siding face down on a cutting mat. Excess siding was removed using a new #11 blade. Use the mat-board as the cutting guide and remove the excess siding with multiple light cuts along the mat-board edge.
16) Once all of the excess siding had been removed from the wall edges, the window and door openings were addressed. Again, cutting from the backside of the wall and using the mat-board as a guide, remove the siding in the openings using a combination of #11, #17 and #18 blades.

The following two pictures shows the general process of how the siding was applied and with excess siding removed:


An Aside Note
This following picture shows the 'behind the scene' practice walls at the top. When I ran out of siding I stopped applying siding to the practice wall mat-board. The sub-wall sections are from waste mat-board sections from earlier in the project. These 'practice' walls were done at the same time as the other walls and will be used for practice coloring and roof fascia angles as I used mat-board scrap from where the roof angles were cut. In the picture, only one of the practice walls has been trimmed to remove excess siding. You may also note that I made a couple of knot-holes in the practice walls to see the effects of coloring the holes with a marker.



17) Use a NorthWest Short Line True sander to square ad dress all of the wall edges.
18) Use various small and needle files (triangle, taper flat and square) to square the window and door openings in the front wall. Make sure to keep the top of the door opening even with the top of the window opening.
19) Use the Prismacolor marker French Grey 50% #PM-159 broad tip end to color all of the mat-board and cut end edges. You will note that some of the siding end cuts will quickly absorb the stain. Those end board cuts which do not want to take the stain easily can be easily coaxed into doing so by angling the broad tip end and by using the fine tip as needed. Color the window and door openings at this time also.

Add Bracing and Color the Inside Walls
Material:
-- Kappler 24 inch lengths scale strip wood:
A) 6x9 O-scale (1 stick) (I used O-scale 6x9 as I have a ton of it for bridge building.)
B) Delta CeramCoat Craft paint - Charcoal #2436.

Prior to adding the individual battens, I wanted a very solid flat surface to which I could apply the 2x2 bats to. I have therefore elected to apply bracing to the walls prior to adding the battens.

I chose to use the wider surface of the bracing on the end walls which allows a bit larger gluing surface area. This is due to how I cut my walls, with the side walls being glued to the inside of the end walls.

I used the bracing stock's edge, or smaller surface, against the front and rear walls to provide a larger gluing surface for the mating of the bracing at the wall corners. This also allowed clearance around the front wall between the door and wall corner and along the front wall top edge.

20) Using dividers, I determined the height of the side wall edge. I then marked the brace stock with a puncture mark. I used the mark to align the chopper for cutting. The cut was made just a bit short (appx 1/4 inch) on purpose to allow for a bit of space when applying to the mat-board.
21) Using the same set-up as used when applying the first siding board, the brace was glued into place.
22) The opposite edge of the side wall was then braced.
23) The wall was set aside (siding face down) under a weight to allow the glue to set.
24) The other end wall was braced in the same manner as the first end wall.
25) The two side walls will sit inside the brace framing of the end wall. One must allow for the side wall bracing when bracing the end walls. I used the two practice walls placed on edge, two pieces of bracing on edge and measured a piece of brace stock across the balance of the mat-board to the wall edge. The bracing was then cut to size and applied to the mat-board using only one practice wall on edge and one brace on edge against a square against the wall edge. This gives the proper location to place the vertical bracing. Note that on the front wall, horizontal bracing was applied directly across the door opening as the brace will be used to assist in supporting a closed front door.
26) The horizontal bracing to fit between the earlier applied vertical bracing was then cut to fit and glued into place. The walls were again placed under weights while the glue dried.

At this point, the inside of the walls look like this:



-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/18/2013 01:44:26 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 7124 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/17/2013 :  8:58:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Now that is some nice coloring. And a great how to. Thanks for all the tips.

Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 10689 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/18/2013 :  12:43:11 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Jerry for the comments. Appreciate them. I'm hoping to get some better pics showing the 'true' coloring of the siding somewhere along the line as we go through this thread as the prior pictures do not truly show the coloring. I'm actually pretty happy with the siding coloring accomplished with a single color of the Prisma markers at this point.

Once the bracing glue had fully dried on the walls, the inside of the structure walls were colored. As this structure will not have a interior or removable roof, and has limited openings, I painted the interior walls with a black paint. For myself, I have found that a true black paint does not really look as good (trap light) as well as a slightly 'lighter hue' black. I have found that the charcoal color works well and is what I use as a 'standard' interior black color.

27) The inside of the walls were painted using the CeramCoat charcoal paint and a 3/8" soft flat brush. Two coats were applied, allowing the first coat to dry prior to applying the second coat.



-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/18/2013 12:59:21 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 7124 Go to Top of Page

grlakeslogger
Crew Chief

Posted - 11/18/2013 :  12:52:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris,
Your tutorial continues to look good! Like Jerry, I like the colors. Since you say what's pictured for color is not accurate, I am hoping you'll get a closer-to-true-color shot in the future.
Thank you for taking the time to enumerate your steps along the way.


--Stu--
It's a great day whenever steam heads out into the timber!

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Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 11/18/2013 :  08:52:19 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It looks like another well thought-out build, Kris.



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hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/18/2013 :  3:17:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Stu and Bruce for checking-in and the comments. Great to know what others are thinking.

I'm hoping that some of the following pictures will assist in the understanding of the siding colors.

Back and End Walls - Coloring and Applying the Battens
Material:
-- Kappler 12 inch lengths scale strip wood:
A) 2x2 (5) (I used 2x2 instead of 1x1 for ease of handling.)
B) Prismacolor marker Warm Grey 40% #PM-102.

Well, now that I have a really solid flat surface with some joints on it, time to get smoking on the bats.

As it is really a bit difficult to describe my exact procedure, I'll post a bunch of photo's to assist you in understanding what I'm trying to convey.

After spending a little time on the net looking at old batten walls, it appears that, in general, the bats are a bit lighter shade in color. There are multiple reasons for this lighter coloring which come to my mind, but I'm not going to go into those thoughts unless we really want to have the discussion. But for myself, it appears that lighter colored battens are common. To assist in capturing the feeling of the lighter colored battens, I have chosen to use a different colored Prisma marker. I also discovered that if I used the same marker as the wall coloring, the bats were too dark, giving a zebra effect.

28) I colored a 2x2 12-inch stock strip, one at a time as needed during the application of the battens. Coloring of the strip was accomplished using multiple passes on a each side of the 2x2 using the heel of the broad tip of the marker.
29) I placed the wall against the wood guide. I then placed the 2x2 colored stock strip against the guide and laid the stock strip down on the joint with the overhand extending off the top edge of the wall.
30) Using a pair of styrene sprue nippers, I cut a length of bat to cover the siding joint and allowed a bit of extra bat to overhang the top edge of the wall. This overhang will be removed later.
Note: Notice that I did not start laying my first batten on the first seam in from the wall edge. I'll leave that first seam until after the walls are glued together and I have the corner trim boards applied. This will allow me to more easily work with the corner trim of the structure as well as adjust the bats to obtain the best visual appear against the 1x6 corner trim.
31) Holding the bat in tweezers, yellow wood glue is applied to the bat using a round toothpick. I first loaded the toothpick with a small amount of glue and then dabbed the glue onto one surface of the bat.
32) Then, I used the length and body of the toothpick to spread the glue on the bat while removing excess glue. This is done by laying the toothpick against the glue and pulling the toothpick body down the length of the bat. As you are pulling the toothpick, lightly twist the toothpick about 1/4 to 1/2 turn, picking up excess glue but not depositing additional glue on the opposite edge of the bat.
33) The bat is then lightly placed on the siding seam, placing the foot of the bat against the wood guide first.
34) Using the 90 degree edge triangle against the wood guide, slide the triangle across the wall to set the bat at a totally vertical position on the wall. (In the picture below I'm using a colored triangle for ease of viewing, but I normally use a clear triangle to easily see the position on the wall.)
35) Use the tweezers to coax the bat into position along the entire seam prior to pressing the bat into position with the tweezers.
36) Once the bat is in place, use the triangle to press the entire batten evenly to obtain a good glue joint.
37) Once all of the seams but the two corner seams have been covered with a bat, place the wall, siding face down on a solid flat surface and apply weight while the glue dries.
39) Continue the process until the other three walls have battens.
40) You may also find that a scrap of scale 10x10 with square ends may help in placement of the bats and cleaning out any excess glue from the big squeeze.

Use the pictures below to assist you in the above descriptions. Captions are below the picture.


Photo 1: Lay the colored batten stock along the seam of the wall making sure the foot of the bat is against the wood guide.


Photo 2: Cut the batten stock a little above the wall edge. Note that the bat to the right has already been cut and glued into place.


Photo 3: Apply a small amount of glue to one face of the bat. You will not have a thin glue film once the glue is on the bat. If the bat was placed on the wall now, there would be a lot of glue weeping from the joint due to the uneven amounts of glue. This results in a lot of clean-up and/or glue spots when the glue drys.


Photo 4: Use the body of the toothpick to remove excess glue from the bat by lying the toothpick on the bat and pulling the toothpick down to the bottom of the bat.


Photo 5: Once the excess glue has been removed, you will have a thin, but even, film of glue to apply the bat to the wall. After just a few bats you will determine how 'thin' the glue film needs to be to avoid having any excess glue come out of the joint when the bat is joined to the wall.


Photo 6: Lightly place the bat, glue face down, over the siding seam. This photo best shows the true color of the siding at this point.


Photo 7: Using tweezers, coax the bat into position against the triangle edge. Notice that the triangle foot is against the wood guide and that the bat is also against the wood guide.


Photo 8: Once the bat is in position, use the tweezers to first lightly tack the bat into position. Then use the triangle to press the entire length of the bat against the wall to obtain a good glue joint. Immediately clean up any excess glue which may have been squeezed out of the joint with a toothpick.


Photo 9: A picture of the entire work area to help you understand the work space. The clear triangle actually used is in the upper left of the workspace area. You can also see a simple king post bridge which I building. I was looking at the colors in the paper which will become gussets and forgot to remove it for this overview picture. Not shown is the Prismacolor markers.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/22/2013 12:26:42 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7124 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 11/18/2013 :  3:33:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris,your cabin is looking very nice!
Though,with all of this info,I think your starting to list to one side.
Keep up the excellent work my friend!

Greg Shinnie



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TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/18/2013 :  3:41:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good picture showing that color. I like the idea of the toothpick to take the glue off.


Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 10689 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/22/2013 :  12:05:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
First, thanks all for taking the time to peek in and make some comments. It's always nice to get some feedback.

Front Wall - Coloring and Applying the Battens
Material:
-- Kappler 12 inch lengths scale strip wood:
A) 2x2 (2) (I used 2x2 instead of 1x1 for ease of handling.)
B) 2x6 (1) for inside door frame
C) 2x4 (1) for door trim
D) Window casting, if using. I used a Laser-Art Structures Four Pane Window #BRA-727.
E) Prismacolor marker Dark Brown #PM-88.
F) Prismacolor marker Warm Grey 40% #PM-102.

The front wall provides a moment of contemplation as to how you want to approach the final product and shadows. Your decision will determine how you want to apply the battens.

If you want to have the window casting frame and door trim flat against the wall, with the battens butted up against the casting, then you will want to do the door frame and window prior to applying the battens.

If you are not worried about the casting and door trim being flat against the wall, but with the frames sitting on top of the battens, then you will want to apply the battens first and later install the door and window.

The advantage of applying the battens prior to the door and window is that it is easier to obtain a straight batten below and above the openings. The downside is that there will be a small shadow created by the casting sitting on top of the battens, and it is not prototypical. Also, take into account that this wall will be under a porch overhang.

Humm... decision time. I opted for keeping the window and door trim flat against the siding, thus I had to address the window and door first.

41) Let's address the window first. Cut from the carrier sheets the 3 parts of the window. There is the outer window frame, the inner window panes and glass.
42) Use a emery board to sand off any nubs on the window frame remaining after cutting from the carrier sheet.
43) Color the window panes and window trim with the Prisma markers. I used the PM-102 on the 4 panes and the PM-88 on the window trim. I found that the small tip of the marker is best for this coloring process.
44) Assemble the window according to package directions. Pretty easy here as it's all a peel and stick assembly.
45) With the window assembled, remove any excess glass using a #11 blade tip.
46) Install the window. I did use a bit of wood glue on the outer window trim to assist in holding the window in place. The package directions state that this is not needed however.

Door Frame and Trim
47) Color the inside door frame trim with the PM-88. This is the 2x6.
48) Cut a piece of the colored 2x6 to line the top of the door opening.
49) Lid stain both ends of the header piece.
50) Glue the header in place. Make sure that the outside edge is even with the outside wall surface.
51) Cut, lid stain and glue into place the two pieces of colored 2x6 to line the side of the door opening. Again, make sure that the edge of the 2x6 if flush with the exterior wall surface.
52) Color the 2x4 trim. Here I used the PM-40 as the primary color with light touches of the PM-88.
53) Measure and cut the first long door side piece making sure that the top of the piece is even with the bottom edge of the header installed earlier.
54) Use this piece as a template for setting the guides in the Chopper. Then cut a second piece of 2x4 for the other side of the door.
55) Glue the two door trim pieces into place. Make sure that the inside door edge if flush with the trim being added.
56) Measure and cut the piece of trim for the top of the door. Measure the piece so that the piece covers the top of the two door trim pieces and is square with the outside edge of the door trim. You do have the option here of having a couple of inches extended on each side of the vertical door trim for a bit of a fancy door.
57) Lid stain the cut ends.
58) Install the door header trim making sure that the trim is flush with the edge of the door header installed earlier. It should also fit flush against the vertical 2x4 door trim.
59) Install the battens. If you chose to install the battens prior to adding the door & window, then cut out the battens extending over the openings. If you chose to install the battens after installing the door frame and window, then install the battens, cutting the battens as needed. Make sure to butt the bats against the trim tightly. Also, try to keep the two piece bats in a straight vertical line.
60) Touch up the cut end of the bats which are butted against the frames with the point of the PM-88 marker.

OK... so this is were we are at:





-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/22/2013 12:07:26 PM

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hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/25/2013 :  02:42:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I added a couple of battens over the door after posting the last pictures to complete the front wall prior to continuing.

Assembling the Walls
The next step is to get the walls ready to glue together.
61) Grab the weapon of your choice and remove the excess batten material extending over the wall edge. I used a single-edge razor blade. Try to use a chop cut instead of a slice to reduce the chance of breaking the batten loose from the front face of the wall. Use the mat-board sub-wall as a cutting guide.
62) Use a large emery board to lightly sand the edges of the wall flat.
63) Use the broad tip of a PM-102 marker to color the edges of the walls and the cut ends of the battens.
64) Glue two of the walls together to form a "L". Keep the walls in some sort of jig which will provide square corners. I used strong magnets, square metal plates, small machinist squares and angle plates for my walls.
65) Once the two "L"s are dry, glue together forming the structure. Again, keep the structure square and the walls vertical.

Below you can see how two "L"s equal a box in my book.









-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7124 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/25/2013 :  4:42:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Scratch Building a Door
Material:
-- Kappler 12 inch lengths scale strip wood:
A) 2x4(1) (I used 2x instead of 1x for ease of handling.)
B) 6x6 Scrap piece - used as spacing guide.
C) Light A-I wash.
D) Two sided tape.

Scratch building a door to fit this structure is not difficult. It's actually easier than adding the battens. I'll show how I create my doors. Note that there are lot's of other ways to make board-by-board doors, this is just how I do it.

This is really for the 'younger' guys who are just getting into scratch building. This was always one of those things which 'intimidated' me for some reason, thus my step-by-step and pictures. I invite anyone who may have a bit of a twist or different method to feel free to throw it out here for future reference.

66) Color the 2x4 to the general color of the door. I happened to spill a small bottle of A-I on my door during the process of building the door, so all of my wood got stained with a light A-I.
67) Measure the height of the door using dividers or by placing the structure on it's side and placing the 2x4 strip against one of the vertical door edges. Cut the piece of strip wood to match the door height. I used flush nippers to cut the wood flush with the door opening.
68) Using the first door plank, set up the chopper to cut multiple boards from the 2x4 strip wood stock.
69) As you are cutting the stripwood from the stock, lay the pieces in the door way to obtain/fill the width of the door opening.
70) If needed, cut a board from a piece stock which is just a bit larger or smaller in width to correctly fit the door. In my case, I ended up with one 2x2. (I probably should have used a 2x6 instead of a 2x4 somewhere. This probably would be less noticeable than the 2x2.) Color this piece of wood to match the other boards which make up the door.
71) Lid stain all cut ends.
72) Place a piece of double sided tap against a guide board. Make sure the tape is long enough to tape a small triangle or square to it in addition to the width of the door.
73) Place a triangle on one edge of the tape. This will become the vertical guide for the door boards.
74) Start laying the door boards flush with the guide at the foot of the door and tightly against the triangle edge.
75) Continue to lay the door boards lightly on the tape. Move the board into position and then use a square to make sure the board is vertical. Use something soft which will not leave impressions on your door boards to firmly attach the boards to the tape. I used the eraser end of a pencil.
76) Mix in the odd board (if you have one) off center and a board or two in from the edge boards.
77) Continue laying down the boards on the double sided tape until all of the boards are down. Remove the triangle and test fit the door opening over the boards forming the door to make sure that you have a good fit.
78) Place the triangle back on the tape making sure it is against the door edge.
79) Lay the stock 2x4 across the door and cut to match the width of the door boards. Use this piece to make a second board of the same length. This second board will become the top horizontal board of the door frame.
80) Lid stain both horizontal pieces.
81) Lay a scrap piece of 6x6 against the guide. This will be the spacer for the bottom cross-board. (Harriman's plans call for a 6-inch space.)
82) Glue the bottom horizontal frame board onto the door, pushing the board flush to the triangle edge and the 6x6 spacer. Make sure to hold the piece in place when removing the 6x6 spacer.
83) Place a square along the top edge of the door.
84) Repeat the process, using the 6x6 spacer, to add the top piece of the door frame.
85) Remove the triangle and 6x6 spacer.
85) Lay a short piece of 2x4 stock diagonally across the door frame.
86) Using the top horizontal piece as a guide for cutting the stock, lightly cut the diagonal angle into the 2x4 stock. Use the top of the horizontal board to make this light cut. Complete the cut with the stock removed from the door.
87) Lay the diagonal brace in position against the top door frame piece, and lightly cut the bottom angle.
88) Verify the fit and then lid stain the cut ends.
89) Place the triangle back into position against the door edge.
90) Glue the diagonal frame brace into position using the triangle to make sure that the diagonal piece does not extend past the door edge. Use a square on the opposite edge of the door to align the diagonal brace.
91) Place some weight on the door and allow to dry.
92) When dry, carefully remove the door from the two sided tape. I generally find it easier to remove the tape from the surface plate prior to removing the door from the tape.


General Supplies for Scratch-building Doors.


Guide piece, double sided tape and triangle in place.


Using triangle edge and square to keep door boards vertical. Use guide to keep boards flush at foot and top.



Make sure boards are secure against tape.


Test fitting door width.


Spacer in place to assist in obtaining horizontal alignment and correct height from bottom of door.


Horizontal frame piece in place at bottom of door and spacer in place at top of door.


Both horizontal frame pieces in place.


Getting ready to cut top angle of diagonal brace.


Board-by-board framed door.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/25/2013 6:02:19 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7124 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/25/2013 :  6:01:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's a nice little door Kris. The more I see of the color the more it looks so realistic for that part of the country.

Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

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hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/27/2013 :  1:03:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Jerry. I'm pretty happy with the coloring of the cabin considering that this is a new coloring technique, to me at least. I'm trying to avoid using stains and paints and only use markers, and maybe a bit of soft pastel, on this structure.

Well, let's get this door ready for installing. Not a whole lot of pictures, but I'll throw out the descriptions for those who want the information.

Detailing the Door
Material:
A)Detail Associates .010 brass wire. #WR-2503(1/2 inch in HO scale).
B) Prismacolor marker Eggshell #PM-72.
C) Prismacolor marker Sand #PM-70.

The tools I used for this process can all be found ad Micro-Mark:
A) Hex Anvil:

B) Flat Jaw Plier - small set
C) A number 76 drill in a pin vise.
D) Flush Nip wire/track cutter. (I used old an Lamberts set.)



93) Bend the wire around one jaw of the pliers holding the wire tightly in the jaws. Use the anvil face to obtain square corners at the edges of the pliers jaw. Note in the picture where the yellow line would be the wire.
94) Holding the bend/handle in the flat pliers, cut the wire handle from the wire stock. Leave about 1/4 inch legs which will be removed once the handle is in place.
95) Place the door next to a scale ruler and press the wire into the wood door at about 3 foot from the bottom of the door. I tried to split the difference of the handle width at the three foot mark.
96) Place the door edge over one of the smaller holes in the anvil and drill two holes into the wood. Use the indents made with the wire handle as guide marks.
97) Holding the handle in the flat pliers, push the wire through the holes in the door using the anvil to support the back of the door. Use about a #72 drill bit shank to keep elevate the wire from the door face.
98) Flip the door over and add a dot of glue to the wire extending thru the door. Allow to dry for a bit.
99) Use the flush wire cutter to remove the excess legs of wire extending out of the back of the door.
100) Carefully paint the handle if you choose. Old gold and tarnished steel are good color choices. I've chosen to leave my handle as a brass handle.
101) Add a bit of weathering around the handle with a dark chalk or rust stain running down the door. Make sure to also add a bit of the same weathering on the door frame at about the same height as the door handle.
102) As I noted earlier, I spilled a bunch of light A-I on my door. Once this had dried a bit, I hit the door with the Eggshell and Sand markers, using the fine tip in an attempt to lighten up the door a bit. Was not really successful in lightening the door. Since the door will be mostly hidden on this structure I'm calling it good. I'll live with a dark door. The final dry-brushing with a flesh tone paint will somewhat lighten the door hue.
(102) Put the completed door aside for installation at a later step.



Corner Trim and Addition of Remaining Battens
Material:
-- Kappler 12 inch lengths scale strip wood:
A) 2x2 (1) (I used 2x2 instead of 1x1 for ease of handling.)
B) 1x6 (1) for corner trim.
C) 1x8 (1) for corner trim over mat-board edge.
E) Prismacolor marker French Grey 50% #PM-159.
F) Prismacolor marker Warm Grey 40% #PM-102.

Add the corner trim next. Note that the 1x8 will need to go over the mat-board edge as a 1x6 will not totally cover the board edge. There is not quite enough material here to do traps, so careful alignment of of corner seam will be needed to insure a flush and tight corner seam. If you want to use traps, then use 1x8 on all of the corner trim and remove the excess as needed.

103) Grain wood and color the trim boards with the French Grey marker.
104) Apply the corner 1x8 board over the edge of the mat-board. Make sure that the board is flush with the mat-board edges. Leave a bit of extra board on both the top and bottom of the wall face. Allow to dry.
105) Trim the excess board from the wall face using a #18 blade or flush nippers.
106) Apply the 1x6 boards to the corners making sure that the board edge is flush with the 1x8 edges and that the seam is tight. Allow to dry.
107) Remove excess 1x6 trim boards using the same method as on the 1x8.
108) Color the 2x2 bat stock with the Warm Grey marker.
109) Add the necessary battens to cover the remaining siding joints. Use your best judgement in adding to the corner seams next to the corner trim. You will note that these bats are flush with the trim board face due to the fact that the walls were assembled with the bats as the outside face of the wall. Allow the bats to dry.
110) Trim the bats flush to the mat-board.
111) Use the French Grey marker to touch-up the corner trim boards and batten cut ends.

Well, there it is, a board-by-board batten siding structure. You will note that the subtle color hues of the individual siding boards, as well as the battens, is something which you just don't achieve with scribed siding.


Adding bats with corner trim in place.


Corner trim in place.


Completed end wall.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/27/2013 1:11:42 PM

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