Railroad Line Forums - Replacing Gears How To - Bachmann Railtruck
Railroad Line Forums
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register
Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 6 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 109 ]  [ Total: 115 ]  [ Newest Member: Midwest Mark ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 The On30 Line
 Replacing Gears How To - Bachmann Railtruck
Next Page
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: SR&RL Strong Freight House Topic Next Topic: Bachmann On30 Truck Screws
Page: of 3

BigLars
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 08/02/2013 :  8:00:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here goes nothing, rail truck 1 is running.

Note this rail truck was pulled a long time ago from under a full rail truck bash. The bash had to have a new rail truck for the drive as replacement parts were not available until now.

You will notice some grinding of the stake pockets and strange paint on the parts.

Your milage may vary on this fix.
My current build:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50375

Edited by - BigLars on 08/03/2013 11:09:31 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 11147

BigLars
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 08/02/2013 :  8:02:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Adding some extra comments to the thread from Reg Barron.

quote:
Originally posted by Reg Barron

A few years later and I have recently completed the gear replacement to my rail trucks. I am adding a few additional notes to Larrys excellent instructions, in the hope it will help some avoid a few pit falls that are out there:

- after removing the cab, the lugs holding the motor gearbox cover in place are visible. Do not try to pop the cover off at this time, since there are parts of the chassis still holding the lugs in place. Follow Larry instruction and remove the whole motor/gear box assembly before trying to remove the cover!
- the retainers holding the headlight wires in place, have wide and narrow lugs. The wide lugs go on the muffler side.
- I only loosen the muffler near the front trucks, since it is very easy to accidently break the joints where it is glued to the frame.
- a magnetized screw driver is very useful in holding on to the very small steel screws. The placement of the screws holding the motor/gearbox assembly is tough to reach with an ordinary swrew sticker.
- when inserting the 4 screws holding the motor/gearbox assembly, it is very easy to accidently capture and squeeze the headlight wires between the screw head and the frame. The wires should be gently pushed aside to avoid this.
- make sure the bevel gears sit squarely in the gearbox and nestle in to their ajoining gear.
- make sure the pickup tabs on the motor touch the circuit board above the front trucks, otherwise the motor won't go!
I have found with good gears and a quality decoder, these rail trucks can be excellent runners!

Regards,

Reg Barron











Remove these 7 screws and place them in a safe place the back screw is long the others are the same size.



Remove the exhaust pipe by lifting straight up.


Remove these four screws.



Turn the truck over and lift off the lid of the coffin. The long screw under the truck was holding this on.



Remove the single screw inside the coffin, be careful not to touch the wires for the decoder.



Remove screw to release the cab.



Pull off the cab, seat and engine covers.





My current build:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50375

Edited by - BigLars on 01/11/2018 7:56:43 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 11147 Go to Top of Page

BigLars
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 08/02/2013 :  8:02:43 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
See Picture below:

B) Pull motor up out of the truck from the front
A) Gently release the tabs covering the motor on each side
c) remove the gears




This is what I got from Bachmann for replacement parts. It is everything I need sort of.. more on that when I post how to reassemble tomorrow.





My current build:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50375

Edited by - BigLars on 08/04/2013 10:32:07 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 11147 Go to Top of Page

BigLars
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 08/02/2013 :  8:03:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Before moving forward test your replacement parts. Gently try to turn the two parts marked test. If they spin do not move forward. My replacement part had a defective connector, it spun freely which will mean the rail truck would not work. I replaced the part with the one from the old drive line and I had a fix.



Time to start rebuilding.

A) Insert the end section of the drive line in the motor and make sure the gears mesh. B) Replace the motor cover and made sure the clips go all the way over the ears.

C) You will have to slide the motor back through the frame on an angle with the front elavated.

D) When you push down on the front of the motor to secure it make sure you have contact between the brass tabs on the motor and the powered pick ups on the circuit board. Trust me make sure or you will be repeating the process.



Replace these four screws





Assemble the rest of the drive line and connect to the motor drive line part. drop the drive line in the rear transmission housing.

Squeeze the two wheel pickups in slightly and insert the wheel included in the package. Make sure you have contact between the wheels and the pick up. If not pull the wheel out and bent the contacts out slightly and repeat wheel install.

Lube the gears if desired.



Replace the bottom of the transmission cover and the four screws.




Test, Test, Test.


My current build:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50375

Edited by - BigLars on 08/03/2013 11:27:43 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 11147 Go to Top of Page

BigLars
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 08/02/2013 :  8:03:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
After 2 1/2 hours of running I think I am safe to finish putting the truck back together.

1) Replace the seat
2) drop the cab on the frame and slowly slide forward
3) Replace the engine hood covers. There are pins on each end that go into holes in the radiator and cab, you may have to slide the cab back slightly.
4) once all of the pins are in the holes slide the cab forward as far as you can.
5) replace the screw from the bottom of the truck that holds the cab.



Replace the coffin box and screw to the frame, the screw is close to the cab. Careful you do not catch any wires under the box bottom.



Place the lid on the coffin, turn the truck over and attach the coffin with the long screw that was removed.



Attach the muffler.





Attach the wire holders a with screws b



You should be good to go. I hope this helps someone.



My current build:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50375

Edited by - BigLars on 08/04/2013 1:46:12 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 11147 Go to Top of Page

BigLars
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 08/02/2013 :  8:04:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have now fixed three of my four rail trucks.
Interesting on the first ruck I used the whole new drive line and wheels.

Truck 2 and 3 had issues with the white gears meshing. The solution was to use the wheels from the replacement and the same drive line parts from the rail bus or vice versatile the wheels from the original truck and the new white gears.

I did test run the old wheels on one truck ank they failed. Cracked gear after an hour.

Your milage may vary.


My current build:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50375

Edited by - BigLars on 08/04/2013 1:55:34 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 11147 Go to Top of Page

elwoodblues
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/02/2013 :  9:29:18 PM  Show Profile  Visit elwoodblues's Homepage  Send elwoodblues a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
I'm holding....

Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railway Co.
http://cvry.ca

Country: Canada | Posts: 6446 Go to Top of Page

Geezer
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 08/03/2013 :  08:45:43 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Still holding here......;-)
(Good show, so far!)


"You can find my Website & Threads here:"
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=47229

Country: USA | Posts: 12973 Go to Top of Page

Rick
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/03/2013 :  09:03:25 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Geezer

Good show, so far!



I agree with that.



As you think, so will you be.

Country: USA | Posts: 22007 Go to Top of Page

visman48
Fireman



Posted - 08/03/2013 :  09:07:00 AM  Show Profile  Visit visman48's Homepage  Click to see visman48's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Larry,
Thanks for doing this, I will hopefully be doing this for mine, I think I only have a split gear in the rear gearbox...

BTW once this thread and others are done we should communicate these back to Bachmann...

semi holding

Les



Country: USA | Posts: 6031 Go to Top of Page

CieloVistaRy
Fireman



Posted - 08/03/2013 :  09:24:16 AM  Show Profile  Send CieloVistaRy an AOL message  Reply with Quote
holding here too

Arthur

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40645

Country: USA | Posts: 5831 Go to Top of Page

BigLars
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 08/03/2013 :  11:10:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by visman48

Larry,
Thanks for doing this, I will hopefully be doing this for mine, I think I only have a split gear in the rear gearbox...

BTW once this thread and others are done we should communicate these back to Bachmann...

semi holding

Les



I will be posting a link on the Bachmann site and letting the parts manager know.


My current build:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50375

Country: USA | Posts: 11147 Go to Top of Page

mabloodhound
Fireman



Posted - 08/03/2013 :  11:21:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Larry, you didn't mention anything about lubrication. Do the gears need a coating of some plastic lube before closing the box?


Dave Mason
D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
“Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.”~Benjamin Franklin
The 2nd Amendment, America’s 1st Homeland Security

Country: USA | Posts: 6625 Go to Top of Page

BigLars
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 08/03/2013 :  11:25:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mabloodhound

Larry, you didn't mention anything about lubrication. Do the gears need a coating of some plastic lube before closing the box?




Good point, I did not lube mine and they have been running on the test track for over 2 hours. I will lube them now.


My current build:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50375

Edited by - BigLars on 08/03/2013 11:28:48 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 11147 Go to Top of Page

Railtwister
Section Hand

Posted - 08/03/2013 :  11:28:42 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Though it seems typical for Bachmann, it does not bode well that the replacement parts they sent were also defective.

Reminds me of the case where a photo in their website catalog showed a package of replacement gears (perhaps for the 44 tonner), if you looked at the photo carefully, you could see that the gears in the photo were already broken. When a customer received his replacement gears and they came broken, he noticed the website photo showed a similar problem. At least they are consistent.

My luck with the Climax was the worst, not only were the little pinions all cracked, so were the universals on the center drive shaft. Even with new gears (that Bachmann parts department charged me $25 dollars for) the ting just sits there with the motor spinning. The drive train on the On30 Climax is the worst engineering I have seen in over 50 years of experience in this hobby!

Bill in FtL

Bill in FtL



Country: USA | Posts: 88 Go to Top of Page

RobMorrison
Section Hand



Posted - 08/03/2013 :  7:55:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Larry,
Fantastic job of showing how to fix the Rail Truck. It should be obvious why so many are afraid to jump into fixing Bachmann On30 locomotives. I lost count of how many screws had to be removed. And in such obscure places!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

Rob Morrison



Country: USA | Posts: 74 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 3 Previous Topic: SR&RL Strong Freight House Topic Next Topic: Bachmann On30 Truck Screws  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Next Page
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-17 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.42 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000