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eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  09:35:22 AM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've a new project underway - but wanted to make sure I was getting somewhere before posting up. This will be a pier for my layout. I call it the Deep River Railroad Pier. If nothing else, posting up gives me the impetus to finish the sucker.

Country: USA | Posts: 2957

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 06/23/2012 :  09:38:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well post away Ed. Always good seeing something new from you.

Jerry


Jerry

"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 9051 Go to Top of Page

eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  11:13:48 AM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
First thing .. let me set the stage. Some of you may know that referring to my layout .. as a layout .. is something of an exaggeration. It consists of a pair of On30 modules mounted to my bedroom wall totaling 8' x 2'. I am in the process of populating a small extension which measures 6' x 21". This creates a 'L-shaped' layout (insert grin) that as 21" in length to the original 8' and a leg 44" long.

Here's a view of the sucker ..


Here we are early in the process. I'm starting to pin the track in place and cut out the area where the water will be.


Where the old bit meets the new. Scrap foam in the back stacked to extend the rockwork


Merging the two


Here's what I had to work with. The boat docked there will have to be imagined.



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eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  11:28:42 AM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I like to use what I term 'pseudo-engineering' with my designs. I find the best information I can on something and then make modifications using that information as a starting point.

I’m going to basically follow the design of a railroad trestle and modify it as needed for a pier (that’s mainly due to an excellent resource “A Treatise on Wooden Trestle Bridges” by Wolcott Cronk Foster published 1897 [1].) Up to about 10 ft. in height. Wooden trestle bents generally consisted of vertical piles .. above 10 ft. in height they would drive the outside piles at a batter of from 1 in. to 3 in. per foot. I will be following the trestle design for bent caps, stringers and so on.

Like I said .. start with reality .. and then pseudo-engineer it! Here is a D&RG trestle bent with all the dimensions. Note that it is dual-gauge.




I can't stress how cool Google books are .. this kind of information is great for model railroading.



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andykins
Fireman

Posted - 06/23/2012 :  11:58:33 AM  Show Profile  Visit andykins's Homepage  Reply with Quote
looking good Ed. your first module was a cracker and great fun to watch being built, looking forward to this one :)


Country: United Kingdom | Posts: 4278 Go to Top of Page

eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  3:10:20 PM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
In a book titled "Wharves and piers: their design and construction and equipment" I found this very helpful illustration. 'Fender Timber' .. beats "that boat bumper" ...

In the book I found drawings of them in 8×8 in.; 8×12 in.; 6×10 in.

In the drawing from Depot Harbor, Ont. there are several items of interest. The fenders are 10×12#8243; in two rows about six feet apart. They are bolted on with 1 in. screws spaced 5 ft. apart. The Bollard is also shown, which I had forgotten about.
Looking at various drawings I think the best bet for the dock side of the pier is to double up on the pilings there so you get a vertical surface to which I can mount the fender timbers.

Note: I was at Lowe’s yesterday and knowing they had large timbers for sale I wandered over there. The 6 in. x 6 in. timbers are BIG. My little docking area isn’t for giant ships but small boats as the pier is only 10 ft off the water. 6 in. timbers would be quite large enough .. thank you very much!




Edited by - eTraxx on 06/23/2012 3:11:05 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 2957 Go to Top of Page

eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  3:20:04 PM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Pretty happy with this .. about ready to start modeling. I’m thinking thought how to approach this. No matter how much you try .. that 17 inches of pier will be a ***** to get straight. I think what I will do is follow what Troels Kirk did .. drill holes for the piles .. insert then pull up till they touch a straight edge .. or some-such.

Anyway. Figured that the one part that was problematic .. was the support for that dock-side outrigger rail. I finally decided to simply replace the stringers/ties with a 12#8243;x12#8243; timber. Problem solved. I’ll cover that later.

This is a Kekythea rendering .. gives an idea of the finished pier. Just how well I follow my own plans .. still needs to be seen. What I have is the On30 lead onto the pier. Straddling that is a wide gauged crane track. To the right of this is the vehicular access and finally an outrigger rail on the far right




Edited by - eTraxx on 06/23/2012 3:24:05 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 2957 Go to Top of Page

eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  3:29:12 PM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I have at least a 40 mi round trip to the nearest hobby shop. Needing strip-wood I went to Lowes where they keep their doweling and picked up some 1/4 in square poplar strips. At 87¢ for 36 in .. beats the heck out of the LHS run.

I wanted to use my Proxxon mini mill to cut the notches exactly. The 1/4#8243; Poplar mills pretty well. The hardest part is keeping everything aligned in the mill. I basically have a stop at the far end that the wood butts against. Once I get the notch right in a scratch piece of wood I run all eight caps through .. then move the table enough to cut the right notch width and repeat.




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eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  3:31:54 PM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Finished milling the notched in the caps. Once set up the milling wasn’t a problem. What was .. was the setting up. I need to purchase some Parallels. Micro-Mark has a set but they are WAY too large – 20-piece Parallel Set. Heck .. the vise on my mini-mill is ONLY 1/2#8243; deep.
The 1927 Talbot Van is just in the photo to show the size of the caps (Talbot is 1:50)




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railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  3:36:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I look forward to learning a lot here.

It's Only Make Believe

Bob Harris

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eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  3:37:05 PM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
For the piling I followed what Troels Kirk did (I think). I used 1/4" poplar dowel which I picked up at my local Lowes.

I used a razor saw to texture each and every one of the pilings and caps. It’s true that for the most part these will be hid under the pier. That being said I can guarantee that if you don’t texture them all then the one that you CAN see .. would also be one that hadn’t been textured. It’s some kind of Corollary to Murphy’s law I think. Murphy’s law states “If anything can go wrong, it will”. I like one of the Corollaries (or perhaps just another of Murphy’s laws) is .. “No matter how perfect things are made to appear, Murphy’s law will take effect and screw it up.”

So. I textured everything. The pier will be right at the edge of the layout .. perfect for anyone to stoop down and peer under the pier (I like that).

Note: Why is it that I waited until I had all the pilings cut to length before I started texturing them? Sheesh.

There IS texture there .. I just didn't go nuts with it. The darker pilings are .. simply darker dowel. Shrug. Fine with me.




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eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  3:39:16 PM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Creosoting:

Think it came out pretty good. I used some brown RIT dye to color the bottoms a brown and then came back after that had dried with some AI on the bottom .. diluted and spread out with mopping on some more brown RIT.
Yep. Think that will work ok.

I may try something. I notice that looking at old creosoted pilings there are often almost a crust of creosote/tar. I might try mixing some Spackle and black acrylic and using a small bit of sponge to add that




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Carrie Creek
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/23/2012 :  3:52:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ed,
On your pilings, do you have a solid level base under the pier location? I was trying to figure out the same issue with my sawmill pilings. I ended up "drilling" down to the plywood base which is level and cutting the pilings the length needed to clear the ground the height I wanted. (see page 13 of my construction thread about half way down for pics)
Just an idea. Will be watching this also.


Phil Z
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 1406 Go to Top of Page

danpickard
Fireman

Posted - 06/23/2012 :  4:23:46 PM  Show Profile  Visit danpickard's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nice start on the extension Ed, and some neat work with the mill for the timber notching...a bit easier and cleaner than going nuts with a blade! I look forward to watching how the rest of the module progress unfolds. It should make a nice addition to the ovens section.

Cheers,
Dan Pickard


http://www.austnarrowgaugeconvention.com/

Country: Australia | Posts: 1324 Go to Top of Page

eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  4:31:30 PM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Carrie Creek

Ed,
On your pilings, do you have a solid level base under the pier location? I was trying to figure out the same issue with my sawmill pilings. I ended up "drilling" down to the plywood base which is level and cutting the pilings the length needed to clear the ground the height I wanted. (see page 13 of my construction thread about half way down for pics)
Just an idea. Will be watching this also.


Phil. It will have a solid base .. sorta. Here's the plan. I will print off a template of the bottom of the pilings and use that to mark the plywood. I will drill into the plywood approx 1/4" or so using a Forstner bit. Start with the left rear pile .. place cap on top, stringer, and tie .. and level with the Peco track. That means sliding the piling into the hole then raising up and gluing in place. Let glue set well .. and use a cap and level to set the right rear piling. Stick the other pilings into the holes .. pull up to fit in the notches in the cap and glue. From then .. use a carpenter's level to level the pilings and cap at the far end. Let set up and then repeat across the pier. If careful that should make them all level. I stole that idea from the way Troels Kirk did on his .. least I think he did it something like that. That's the plan.



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eTraxx
Fireman



Posted - 06/23/2012 :  4:33:47 PM  Show Profile  Visit eTraxx's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by danpickard

Nice start on the extension Ed, and some neat work with the mill for the timber notching...a bit easier and cleaner than going nuts with a blade! I look forward to watching how the rest of the module progress unfolds. It should make a nice addition to the ovens section.

Cheers,
Dan Pickard


Dan doing it using the mill let me know I need some parallels. A dial indicator helps a lot but you gotta be careful and double check everything. A scrap piece run through to adjust and double check before milling the 'good stuff' is a necessity.



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