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Hawx
Section Hand
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 Posted - 06/16/2012 : 10:03:13 AM
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Hi, all,
I am currently working on a quite large H0 scale warehouse that will be clad with 1X6 Kappler stripwood.
The core of the building is lasercut plywood that I plan to spray matt black.
There are no battens on the panelling, so the substructure may be visible (as on the prototype) between some of the boards.
But I am uncertain how to attatch the stripwood.
Double sided tape?
White glue?
Superglue (ACC)?
As I said, this is a fairly large building, so the time factor is important. White glue i probably the best as it dries transparent and should goive strong, durable joints. But I feel it will be quite time-consuming as just a few boards can be glued before you need to clamp the work.
Suggestions on materials and techniques are very welcome!
Edit: Since this thread is going to be about many other things in addition to board by board construction, I changed the subject.
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Remembrance of Trains Past |
Edited by - Hawx on 09/12/2012 06:28:24 AM
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Country: Norway
| Posts: 68 |
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brownbr
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 06/16/2012 : 11:06:22 AM
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I would use wood glue and start by securing a square corner to your workbench. Double sided tape with some scrap 1/4" basswood will work. Put more double sided tape down to secure the plywood making sure it is square in the corner you just made. You have now made a starting point for your first board. Make sure it is squared up into your jig and then work your way across the wall. The previous board will then be the side of your jig with the scrap 1/4" still being the bottom side. It goes remarkably fast and you shouldn't need to clamp, but you may want to add some weights as you move down the wall.
After everything is dry you will only have to dress up the top and 1 side of the wall and cut out window/doors.
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| Bryan |
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Country: USA
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kirk
Fireman
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Posted - 06/16/2012 : 11:36:32 AM
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I white glue this kind of work... never used a clamp. No trouble encountered ever. Some white glues grip very fast these days...
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Troels Kirk
Näsum, Sweden
http://coastline.no13.se |
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Country: Sweden
| Posts: 4526 |
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Hawx
Section Hand
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Posted - 06/16/2012 : 3:32:08 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by kirk
I white glue this kind of work... never used a clamp. No trouble encountered ever. Some white glues grip very fast these days...
Am I wrong, or did you experiment with two-sided carpet tape and ACC on the first models for your layout? But you had some trouble with the parts coming loose after a while?
I think white glue is a good choice, it should last forever and give very good hold.
But I am still looking for the ultimate way of applying white glue to large number of parts.
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Remembrance of Trains Past |
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Country: Norway
| Posts: 68 |
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kirk
Fireman
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Posted - 06/16/2012 : 3:40:51 PM
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Carpet tape is a no-go!! Not permanent adhesion... ACC is fine, and I use it for small stuff, but the white glue is very handy when planking whole structures.. I use a small, round bristle brush for the application, and do three-four planks at a time (applying the glue to the sub wall, not the planks)...
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Troels Kirk
Näsum, Sweden
http://coastline.no13.se |
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Country: Sweden
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Hawx
Section Hand
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Posted - 06/16/2012 : 5:02:26 PM
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quote:
ACC is fine, and I use it for small stuff, but the white glue is very handy when planking whole structures.. I use a small, round bristle brush for the application, and do three-four planks at a time (applying the glue to the sub wall, not the planks)...
I am concerened about the long term properties of ACC, I have heard horrorstories of models coming apart after 10-15 yrs. But those stories has been about white metal kits.
Speaking about things falling apart, if you want to pass on your models to future generations, do not use masking tape for roofing. After 20 yrs or so, the adhesive turns to dust and the paper backing comes loose.
And wood treated with A-west-weather will not stay silvery grey forever, it turns brown in the long run.
Back to white glue, I think maybe a fine toothed piece of discarded hacksaw blade could be used for spreading glue. Anyone tried that?
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Remembrance of Trains Past |
Edited by - Hawx on 06/16/2012 5:03:15 PM |
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Country: Norway
| Posts: 68 |
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milocomarty
Fireman
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Posted - 06/16/2012 : 5:41:00 PM
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White glue straight out of the bottle, dunno if Pattex is available in Norway but the have these medium sized 250ml bottles with the fast drying D2..works great for me..
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Grtz Martin..
http://cardiganbaycoastalrailroad.wordpress.com/ |
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Country: Netherlands
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Sean_OBrien
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 06/16/2012 : 8:29:33 PM
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A lot of the time when I am doing things like this - if the particular board placement isn't too critical - I will use low tack masking tape.
Take a strip of the tape and set it on your bench with the sticky side up. I then rest a square on top of the tape on the bench (looks like a framing square, but I had it laser cut out of acrylic so that it is 4" on one leg and 12" on the other. After that - I take my strip wood and start at the short leg with one end butted against the long leg and just lay the strips in place. You can fiddle with them a bit right now as you feel the need. Once you get as many as you need, lift the square out of the way and pick up the tape with the wood stuck to it. Put your frame on your bench and flip the tape with the wood around (the tape will be on the outside now). Apply your glue to the frame (white glue is my preference when working with wood) and lay the whole strip in place. Set a sheet of wax paper on top and then set an Oxford English Unabridged Dictionary on top of that. Go have dinner.
When you come back, every thing should be dry enough. Remove the dictionary, the wax paper and take a look at what you have. The masking tape should peel off without any problems and all the wood should stay in place. You can go through and do board on board siding extremely fast that way.
If you need to worry a bit more about the specific placement of the boards, you can either use the frame itself - or what I will do is use some of those transparency sheets for my printer and print out the template for the frame on it. This allows me to mess around more precisely. Just remember though - you are looking at the back side of things when aligning the stripwood and the transparency (forgot that once...went to flip it over and glue it in place and everything was backwards).
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kirk
Fireman
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Posted - 06/17/2012 : 12:25:27 AM
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I use exactly the same glue as Martin! But squeeze some into an old 35mm film canister and use a brush for application.
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Troels Kirk
Näsum, Sweden
http://coastline.no13.se |
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Country: Sweden
| Posts: 4526 |
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Neil M
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 06/17/2012 : 02:52:18 AM
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See if you can find an Alphatic Resin type of white glue. It is like normal PVA but it is stickier and dries faster so needs less holding before it grips.
It looks and smells like PVA but is not quite as watery.
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| Built a waterfront HO layout in Ireland http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22161 but now making a start in On30 in Australia |
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Country: Australia
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deemery
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 06/17/2012 : 10:15:59 AM
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With respect to ACC, I haven't had any problems with items coming loose, but I read that ACC joints are very sensitive to weather and generally fail when exposed to below freezing temperatures.
dave
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Country: USA
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mwbpequod
Crew Chief
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Posted - 06/21/2012 : 07:43:57 AM
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I generally use CA for this type of construction, but standard yellow Carpenter's glue will work just fine for this.
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| When you become obsessed with the enemy, you become the enemy. |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 649 |
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Hawx
Section Hand
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Posted - 07/02/2012 : 5:11:33 PM
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No updates lately, but I am toiling away on my board by board walls.
I am using white glue, the challenge is to use just enough glue. I want a good bond for the planks, but no glue oozing out between them.
By the way, the windows are etched mullions with 1X4 stripwood framing.
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Remembrance of Trains Past |
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Country: Norway
| Posts: 68 |
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Hawx
Section Hand
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Posted - 07/02/2012 : 5:18:30 PM
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A bit late maybe, but here is a picture of the prototype:
It is a combined warehouse and tramway terminal. Stone products was stored here before beeing shipped out by rail.
The lasercut plywood substructure:
The plywood was painted black before the panelling began.
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Remembrance of Trains Past |
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Country: Norway
| Posts: 68 |
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brownbr
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/02/2012 : 7:32:56 PM
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Very neat work. Nice color variations in the boards. This will turn into a fine structure.
One thing I noticed is that all of the boards run the length of the building. I think it would look good to stagger cuts in the boards and butt them together.
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| Bryan |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 704 |
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Hawx
Section Hand
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Posted - 07/03/2012 : 12:46:33 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by brownbr
Very neat work. Nice color variations in the boards. This will turn into a fine structure.
One thing I noticed is that all of the boards run the length of the building. I think it would look good to stagger cuts in the boards and butt them together.
I think you might be right. But on the other hand, when we look at the prototype picture, is it really possible to see where boards butt together?
This might be a parallell to marking out nails in the boards. Possible a nice touch, but strictly speaking not really that visible on the prototype.
Regards, Hauk
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Remembrance of Trains Past |
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Country: Norway
| Posts: 68 |
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