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Author Previous Topic: new (to me) line of HO and O scale figures Topic Next Topic: Etched brass locomotive kit build
Page: of 106

OK Hogger
Crew Chief

Posted - 06/23/2019 :  6:55:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's going to make a fine looking little hog!

Andre



Country: | Posts: 871 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/30/2019 :  4:31:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mike, Andre, Thank you. I think getting there.

Here is some of what I got going;
Here is a rear view of the crosshead yoke showing the adjustments I've made to keep the drive rods from hanging up on it.



I've closed the gap between the way and the yoke on the right side. The crosshead is held onto the way by a 2mmx5mm nickel silver strip that I soldered to the back of the crosshead as seen hear;



And soldering that without un-soldering something or melting the plastic cylinders wasn't easy. But I did get it done.
You can also see the head of the 1mm screw that holds on the Main Drive Rod. These screews won't lock in place. While I'm testing the mechanism and fine tuning it these screws keep backing out and hit the front drivers main block (on the side rod) locking everything up. I think I can stop the screws from doing that with a little ACC but don''t want to do that until I'm certain I have everything aligned right. So I check and tinker until one of these screws work out. then I have to take the cylinders off again so that I can tighten them. Then reassemble and test some more. But I think I almost got it.

That's all

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5651 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 06/30/2019 :  5:43:03 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bob,

Your middle name should be Baldwin.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 6332 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Crew Chief

Posted - 06/30/2019 :  9:12:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
SO much piddly.

I'm impressed with your stick-to-it-ness, Bob!

Andre



Country: | Posts: 871 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 07/01/2019 :  07:57:39 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bob,

That picture with the screw in it. Is it possible to countersink that screw? It looks to have a "V" shape to the head. If so you could possibly countersink the hole a tad so it won't stick out as far.

Congrats on not un-soldering your other work and not melting the cylinders.

Bernd


WWG1WGA

Country: USA | Posts: 3594 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 07/01/2019 :  12:30:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bernd, Thank you. I did celebrate after the soldering. Yes, I did. On the screw; The screw pictured is a pan head. When tight there is enough clearance. It is after it loosens up that it loses the needed clearance. I do have some flat head screws coming from China ( a month now) that I will try but stopping the screw from backing out will solve the problem with ether style. I just prefer the screw to remain removable.

Thanks
Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5651 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 07/03/2019 :  3:33:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks very nice Bob!
I read the update at work but hadn't time to answer but to think:-).
When I have a space issue with a screw head I take the screw in a pin wise and file down the head so the slot is barely visible or so it just is possible to screw/unscrew with a flat screwdriver.
If I overdo it I use a jewelers saw to make the slot a little deeper. To lock the screw an idea would be to lightly pinch the threaded end with a pair of flat pliers. That will somewhat ruin the threads but will lock the screw once screwed in.


Another way is to use a screw which has a straight section on it between the head the thread.
Then the screw can be screwed in with tension and hopefully won't come loose.

My two cents (or whats its called)

Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1759 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 07/03/2019 :  3:48:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Håkan, Those seem to be very good ideas. The worst that could happen is wasting a screw. I think I'm going to try the pinching the thread idea.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5651 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 07/05/2019 :  12:55:14 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Adjust here, test here Fasten done the cross head yoke. test again. install gearbox, test under power. It passed. remove gearbox. install valve gear;


The valve gear is one of the few commercial casting I used. They are a Precision Scale product.

Back to comforting the pets.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5651 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Crew Chief

Posted - 07/05/2019 :  08:14:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice! Love all the nut/bolt details that emphasize the "railroad locomotive" look.

Seeing as how quickly this engine can be thrown together, how many of these engines are you going to build for your theme?



Andre



Country: | Posts: 871 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 07/05/2019 :  12:39:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob,
Have you thought about using Thread-lock? You can get semi-permanent stuff (blue, I think) and it is like a plastic liquid that gums up the threads. I remember getting a tube of it in with my RC cars back in the day. Any automotive shop will have it.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1243 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 07/05/2019 :  12:44:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by OK Hogger

Nice! Love all the nut/bolt details that emphasize the "railroad locomotive" look.

Seeing as how quickly this engine can be thrown together, how many of these engines are you going to build for your theme?



Andre



"thrown together" I hope you're being facetious there. I'm building two. Maybe a third if I feel the need to better illustrate construction. Thanks for noting all the detail I've added.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5651 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 07/05/2019 :  12:46:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by David Clark

Bob,
Have you thought about using Thread-lock? You can get semi-permanent stuff (blue, I think) and it is like a plastic liquid that gums up the threads. I remember getting a tube of it in with my RC cars back in the day. Any automotive shop will have it.
Cheers,
Dave



Thanks i'll look into it

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5651 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Crew Chief

Posted - 07/05/2019 :  12:54:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Oh yeah, I was being facetious! (A funny.) No way I would have the patience to do what you're doing!

Hats off to you, my man!

Andre



Country: | Posts: 871 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 07/05/2019 :  8:51:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
First, here's a better view of the valve gears;


I then took everybody's sugestion and got some tread lock blue (package says it's for 1/8" to 1/2" bolts and mine are 1mm but it's worth a try). i stop using the NWSL 1mm screws and replaced them with cheap one I got a few days ago. I figure cheap screws would mean sloppy treads. I filled the back od the main rod so the head didn.t stick up past the side of the rod. Then more adjust, tinker, ream and this is the result;

https://youtu.be/IsgWsu3QBO8


and finally this is the total mechanism.


but it still need a little work.

that's all folks

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5651 Go to Top of Page
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