Railroad Line Forums - The Coos Bay and Willamette Valley
Railroad Line Forums
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register
Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 4 | Anonymous Members: 1 | Guests: 118 ]  [ Total: 123 ]  [ Newest Member: rkovvur ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 Early Rail Forum
 The Coos Bay and Willamette Valley
Previous Page | Next Page
 New Topic |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: new (to me) line of HO and O scale figures Topic Next Topic: Etched brass locomotive kit build
Page: of 106

OK Hogger
Crew Chief

Posted - 04/08/2019 :  09:53:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob:

And now you're seeing first hand why rivet counting is a lesson in frustration. Make it a so-called "perfect" model at the expense of view-ability/usability, or make a great looking model?

I agree: IF you have to make the rivets a bit larger than prototype AND space them so they can be SEEN, then absolutely, do what makes for the best looking model and the rivets be damned. It would look silly for an 1870s era model to look like it has welded lines, which is about what the visual results will be with scale size/spacing rivets.

However, 'tis your model and you must do what you feel is best. It will be a dandy regardless!

Andre



Country: | Posts: 803 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 04/08/2019 :  10:57:58 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by railman28


The prototype's rivets are 1/4" heads spaced on 1" center spacing. Too small for printing, The smallest rivets I've drawn and printed are about 3/8" on 1" centers but don't show up on the print as they do on the prototype. the One that do show up, The diagonal line and the third line to the left, is 3/4" on 1" spacing. (They're also 3/4" tall).
I think I'm Going to draw a line or 3/4" at 1.5" spacing and see how they look.
For comparison the largest rivets you see on this test is the smallest that can be printed in Brass.

Any more thoughts?


Bob,

Makes sense to me. And I agree with Andre.

As detail gets finer one has to balance accuracy with artistry.

Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 5189 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 04/08/2019 :  12:54:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys, Thank you , for helping me work through this.

It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5192 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 04/08/2019 :  4:40:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I would again like to state how helpful hearing how others see my drawings and prints has helped me.
I played with the spacing and printed out drawing (on paper)to scale. 2" looked OK but 2.5" spacing was better.

This is the drawing. The diagonal is at 2.5"spacing while the third line on the right is at 2".



These decision were a lot easier when driven by mechanical necessity.

Bob






It's only make-believe

Edited by - railman28 on 04/08/2019 4:47:08 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 5192 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 04/08/2019 :  5:56:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great we could be of help. I think the new size and spacing will come out great once printed.

Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1730 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 04/13/2019 :  11:52:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm so excited. The mailman was kind to me today and I got my stuff from Shapeways. Where to start. I got the UN-FUD prints of the detailed pilot deck. It came out great and fits perfectly. The boiler also looks good. Take a look;




Here's a close up of the smokebox check out the detail around the deckbracing bracket and the pad for the builders plate:




Here's a shot of how the firebox portion of the boiler sits on the firebox sides cast into the frame:




So I checked all the holes for the various details. They were spot on. I then answered the question; can UN-FUD be taped? YES it can. At least for a #1-72 screw. Checking the alignment of the Main bolt that runs through the frame, cylinder and into the smokebox I found the hole in the smoke box was off just a tad. That will be an easy fix when I add the Rivets, the final step. One more shot with the running boards;





But Wait! There's more!

Take a look at this;




Yes, those are bolt blanks. Why? you may ask. I remind you all that I'm building 2 engines. Most of the pictures I've been posting feature the 1/8" axle model. The other engine is using drivers on 3mm axles I got from Greenways. These driver use crankpins with a 1/16-60W tread. I know of only one source for these screws. Precision Scale. Their number 335. I've been able to track down two packs of them. The packs had different Shoulder thickness. One was slot head and the other Hex Heads. While they worked They stuck out too much for my liking. I was able to get a die for the tread from NWSL and when I saw that Shapeways had lowered their Minimums for brass I saw the possibility of making my own. This is not the cheap way to do it but it is the only way I know to get screws with the shoulders I need. I'll let you know how it works out. On the same casting are the Lead trucks for both engines plus a couple of spares.




That's all for now

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5192 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Crew Chief

Posted - 04/14/2019 :  12:47:05 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
WOW! What a bonanza! No wonder you were stoked!

It's all looking very good. It's going to be fun to watch this as it starts coming together.

Good work Bob!

Andre



Country: | Posts: 803 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 04/14/2019 :  10:56:06 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Very nice, Bob. What a good feeling when everything fits as it should.


Country: USA | Posts: 5189 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 04/14/2019 :  11:20:37 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob McGlone suggests putting a bit of thin CA into tapped styrene, and then retapping. That reinforces the tap threads in his experience. Might be worth considering for your UN-FUD, too.

This has been a fascinating project!

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7695 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 04/14/2019 :  7:07:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Andre, thank you, I really appreciate your comments.

Mike, Thank you. Yes, it's a Very good feeling indeed.

Dave, That's a good idea. I regularly use ACC to strengthen UN-FUD so it should do the same for the treads. Thanks!!!

Thanks again

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5192 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 04/14/2019 :  11:50:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
And Bob said; Let there be rivets! And rivets appeared upon the boiler and it was good to his eyes. And it was the 205th body and the 76th sketch. And the boiler was finished. And he rested from his works, until Shapeways tells him it's all wrong.


Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5192 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 04/15/2019 :  07:03:12 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Amen to that!


Country: USA | Posts: 2655 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 04/15/2019 :  10:12:37 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Happy Birthday, Bob!

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7695 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 04/15/2019 :  2:58:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Dave,


And then Shapeways rose to their feet and with an Arch-angel voice shouted "Thou shall not Pass!!!".

Ok, enough of that. Shapeways computer didn't accept the rivets on the curved surface. I tried every repair software I have and got the same results. As long as the surface was flat, like the test I ran the row of rivets was fine but the rivets on curved surfaces were blown away.

So I have to accept less details;


This joining of the Boiler Jacket sheets was standard practice in my era. No one has successfully modeled it. I had hoped to raise the bar here as I did with my frame but, now, the boiler will be just as good as everybody's else's.

Bob



It's only make-believe

Edited by - railman28 on 04/15/2019 2:59:56 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 5192 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 04/15/2019 :  3:09:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'd be tempted to write off all the 3D printed rivets and just go with Archer decals. That's so I could sand down the surface if necessary.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7695 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 106 Previous Topic: new (to me) line of HO and O scale figures Topic Next Topic: Etched brass locomotive kit build  
 New Topic |   Reply to Topic | 
Previous Page | Next Page
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-19 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.75 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000