Railroad Line Forums - 10th Anniversary Challenge: Scratchbuilt Cars
Railroad Line Forums
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register
Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 11 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 136 ]  [ Total: 147 ]  [ Newest Member: nevadablue ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 HOn30 and HOn3 Forum
 10th Anniversary Challenge: Scratchbuilt Cars
Next Page
 New Topic |   Reply to Topic |   Printer Friendly
Author Previous Topic: SierraWest special run of HO/HOn3 Work Train Topic Next Topic: Narrow Gauge  Convention?
Page: of 9

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/17/2012 :  11:16:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I decided to build a two HOn3 cars as my projects in the RR-Line's Tenth Anniversary Challenge. I hope to see a good showing of HOn3 and HOn30 projects over there - it is a great way to show that we HO narrow gaugers are alive and well.

Here is the link to the Challenge thread: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35452&whichpage=1

I will keep update photos flowing into the main Challenge thread, but all the details of the build will reside in this thread.

My first car will be a caboose based on this photo found on page 327 of Thomas Taber's "Ghost Lumber Towns of Central Pennsylvania" book. That book is No. 3 in the series: "Logging Railroad Era of Lumbering in Pennsylvania". I have established an e-mail relationship with Mr. Taber and the following photos are posted with his permission.





Actually that entire scene would be fun to model. But that is beyond the scope of the immediate project.

The second car might become a combination of a scratch build and the use of a kit. Last fall, at a meeting of the Garden State Division (NMRA), fellow forum member Joe Calderone (dnhman) won an HOn3 Ore Car kit as a door prize. He was nice enough to give me the kit as long as I promised to build it here on the forum.

Here is a picture of the car. I might scratch build a 26' flat car on which to build the ore bins instead of using the laser cut parts in the kit. We will see.



So those are my two Challenge projects.

More to follow - as soon as I get more done on the water car that I'm building.
Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3

Country: USA | Posts: 25239

Frederic Testard
Engineer



Posted - 01/17/2012 :  5:41:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sounds like an interesting project, Bruce.
By the way I share your opinion about the interest of the whole scene.


Frederic Testard

Country: France | Posts: 17603 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/17/2012 :  7:27:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bruce

Looks like a really nice project. And like Frederic and you said what a great scene that would be to do.

Jerry


Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 6084 Go to Top of Page

milocomarty
Fireman



Posted - 01/18/2012 :  03:28:07 AM  Show Profile  Visit milocomarty's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nice project Bruce, second the opinion of the whole scene being nice to be modeled..

http://martinwelberg.wordpress.com/
http://cardiganbaycoastalrailroad.wordpress.com/

Country: Netherlands | Posts: 5872 Go to Top of Page

wvrr
Fireman



Posted - 01/18/2012 :  07:33:44 AM  Show Profile  Visit wvrr's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I forgot about that car, Bruce. Looks like fun!

Chuck


Wyoming Valley Railroad
http://sites.google.com/site/wvrails/

Country: | Posts: 5239 Go to Top of Page

dnhman
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/18/2012 :  08:02:11 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Look forward to see how she turns out, Glad you were able to use it!

Cheers!, Joe

Country: USA | Posts: 1056 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/18/2012 :  08:41:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for checking in, guys. I did manage to get the drawing done for a 26' underframe yesterday while waiting for glue to dry on the water car.

Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3

Country: USA | Posts: 25239 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/23/2012 :  1:19:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have gone back and forth on either a 26' or 28' car, so I've done drawings for both and will make both under frames. I'll make the final division later.





My drawings are fairly simple. I just put double sided tape over the drawing and assemble the under frame right over the drawing.


Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3

Country: USA | Posts: 25239 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/23/2012 :  10:31:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Under frames go together pretty quickly.

Here is the 26' frame in progress right over the drawing.



The 28' under frame is already off the drawing and painted.



Once I finish the second under frame and get it painted, the next step is doing the brake rigging on both frames - not my favorite part of the build.


Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3

Country: USA | Posts: 25239 Go to Top of Page

luvchikn
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/23/2012 :  11:36:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dutchman!

thanks for the navigational aid. I have found your build and subscribed. (this whole forums thing is new)

First question is the area where the trucks attach in the bottom picture. Is this material the same thickness as the bolster? and a follow up, Do I see a second layer on top of the bolster for truck clearance?

Grandt Line has a flat car detail set for about $3 that has bolsters included. I picked up 2 of them last night, but this looks do-able to me.



Country: USA | Posts: 123 Go to Top of Page

DEFugere
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/24/2012 :  07:14:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bruce

I've been silently watching, this could be easily converted to HOn30 by myself so I will be checking in on a regular basis, hope you don't mind? My Black Fly Lumber needs some different equipment.

I also love to see pictures.


David



Country: | Posts: 200 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/24/2012 :  07:17:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bobby,

I add two things to the wood underframe. Over the area where I will put the couplers, I place a piece of .010 or .015 styrene to get a nice smooth surface. Over the wood bolster, I add scale 4" x 12" piece of styrene. That give me a nice smooth surface for the trucks to move against and raises them up for clearance. Those two things will give me proper height for the coupler above the rails with the use of one or two Kadee fiber washers. Remember, this is HOn3.

The Grandt-line set is nice and should work fine. I don't use them for contest models since I need all the 'scratch building' points I can get.


Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3

Country: USA | Posts: 25239 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/24/2012 :  4:42:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Last night, while listening to some music, I grabbed a pack of scale 2" x 8"s for the decks on the flat cars. I put some grain in them with sand paper and set them aside. Since I never know if the planks will fill the deck properly, I also prepare one full length 2" x 6" and one 2" x 10" in case I need them to even things out. I like to stain them all at once so they match. After roughing those two lengths up, I set them aside for further work today.

This morning, while taking some fuzz off with a fine Emory cloth, I thought that the 2" x 8"s felt more 'substantial' than those two individual 2" x 6"s and 2" x 10's. Laying them next to each other and using the very scientific finger nail test, I determined that the 2" x 8"s were indeed 'thicker'. Grabbing my caliber, I found they were really 3" x 8"s. I don't know whether I put the wrong stock back in the wrong sleeve (likely), or whether it happened at the 'factory'. In either case, I'm glad that I caught it. Not that using 3" boards would be 'un-prototypical', but mixing the two thickness would not have looked good.

Anyway, I'm glad that I caught it. I ended up putting the thicker stock away (in the right sleeve) and using 2" stock. It is now stained and ready to be installed on the decks when I'm ready.


Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3

Country: USA | Posts: 25239 Go to Top of Page

luvchikn
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/25/2012 :  12:18:56 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bruce, is it common for the "factory"†to vary their dimensions from run to run? How about from company to company? Do you personally endorse any over another?

Bobby



Country: USA | Posts: 123 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/25/2012 :  07:13:19 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bobby,

For scale dimensional lumber (Scale 2"x4"s, etc.) and for scribed siding for that matter, I have used wood from the three major suppliers: Northeastern, Kappler, & Mt. Albert, and gotten good results from all three. Since my local hobby shop does not stock wood, I go by what is available at the shows. Being from the northeast, it is Northeastern more often than not.

In my experience, it is not a good idea to mix wood from different manufacturers for the same project since I have found different thickness and widths from one to the other. Not enough to matter to the eye if you use all Kappler or all Mt. Albert, etc, but enough to matter if you are mixing say Northeastern with Kappler, etc.

Yesterday, while I had my calibers out, I measured the thickness of a bunch of 2"x8"s from Northeastern and from Mt. Albert. (Those were the only ones on hand.) The variation in thickness on the Northeastern spanned about 5 thousandths, while the Mt. Albert spanned about 3 thousandths. Not a scientific experiment, but accurate for the stock on hand. Also, the Mt. Albert was overall a few thousandths thicker than the Northeastern.

Having said that, I have used more Northeastern over the years than the other two combined and will likely do so in the future since that is what is reliably available around here.

Moving away from scale dimensional to fractional (1/16" x 3/32"s, etc.) I use either Midwest Products since that is available at Michaels and other craft stores or order from Micro Mark. I'm not sure who Micro Mark gets theirs from.

I hope that this helps.


Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3

Country: USA | Posts: 25239 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/25/2012 :  12:18:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
To make sure that the upper surface of the under frame is level and smooth, I keep a piece of Emory cloth on a glass surface on the edge of my bench. A few swipes with a little downward pressure is all it takes.



This is the 26' under frame ready for painting.

BTW, I drill all the holes for NBWs, stake pockets, queen posts, etc. in the various pieces before assembly - while they are flat on the bench.


Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3

Country: USA | Posts: 25239 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 9 Previous Topic: SierraWest special run of HO/HOn3 Work Train Topic Next Topic: Narrow Gauge  Convention?  
 New Topic |   Reply to Topic |   Printer Friendly
Next Page
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-14 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.34 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000