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Schoolmaster
Fireman
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 Posted - 01/16/2012 : 2:58:18 PM
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I have chosen to model (sort of) the warehouse on the Port San Luis pier for my challenge project for the following reasons:
a. I need it to put on my pier.
b. I have good elevations, photographs, including those of the warehouse under construction, and information about construction method and wood sizes.
c. I am under the {possibly deluded) impression that it will be fairly straight-forward.
d. Learn/practice/remember techniques for building my pier.
My pier is about 1/2 as long and 2/3 as wide as the prototype, so I plan to cut the warehouse down from 13 x 18' bays to 7 x 18; bays by leaving out three pairs of warehouse bays (3 door and 3 blank wall sections) This will reduce the length to 126 feet (about 32")
The width will be reduced from 60' to 40' (10")amd the track will run down the center. The prototype has a curve in the track towards the sea end so the end doors do not line up.
The warehouse seems built from using a modified post and girt frame, with roof trusses, so there are no posts/supports breaking up the interior except for the framing in the two-storey office section.
The lumber is 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10" but I'm going to use undersize 1 1/2, 3, 4 1/2, 6, and 9 not the least of the reasons being that's what I can get.
I'm building the model in the condition it was when it was built, shortly after it's predecessor burned down in 1915. It will be new and freshly painted, so i'm not staining the wod or distressing it. Genteel decrepitude has it's place, but I modelling my railroad near the height of the oil boom and at its most prosperous.
The last stick-by-stick model I built for indoor use was in Sn3 1/2 and over 40 years ago.
My N scale construction is all plastic/styrene or laser-cut wood, and the stick-by-stick glueless techniques I use for my outdoor railroad (router and pin-nailer are my very good friends) will not work on wood this small (unless someone has a router bit set of 1/16" dovetails)
BTW, if snyone has a clue what the roofing material was when the building was new, or is now or at any other time in the past, I would like to know, because I don't at the moment.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1581 |
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mabloodhound
Fireman
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Posted - 01/16/2012 : 3:09:00 PM
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Corrugated iron was very popular during your time period, both for siding and roofing. I think you'll find Evergreen has some suitable material.
Very ambitious project and fun to watch. Just too small for my fat fingers.
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Dave Mason
D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
“Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.”~Benjamin Franklin
The 2nd Amendment, America’s 1st Homeland Security
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Edited by - mabloodhound on 01/16/2012 3:09:31 PM |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 4616 |
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Schoolmaster
Fireman
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Posted - 01/16/2012 : 3:24:29 PM
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Corrugated iron was indeed very popular, but the roof is very unusual with that flat top and it is surrounded by corrosive salt water.
Given the nearby Port Harford Ashphalt Company, some type of tarred felt/paper/wood is also a possibility.
Small! Its 32" x 10" x 7" in O scale That's bigger than some of my H scale garden railroad structures. What do you have for fingers, bananas??
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1581 |
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elwoodblues
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/16/2012 : 3:36:45 PM
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John,
Looks like it's going to be a great project to follow along with.
I think Dave is under the impression you're building it in N scale "My N scale construction is all plastic/styrene or laser-cut wood". Although I bet you could put a small N scale layout in the building when it is completed.
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Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railway Co.
http://www.cvry.ca |
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Country: Canada
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Tommatthews
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/16/2012 : 3:48:39 PM
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John,
You have choose a "project" indeed. Lots of material will go into this one.
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Schoolmaster
Fireman
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Posted - 01/16/2012 : 3:58:19 PM
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At 32" x 10", an On2 1/2 micro layout is not out of the question.
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Edited by - Schoolmaster on 01/16/2012 3:59:33 PM |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1581 |
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Schoolmaster
Fireman
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Posted - 01/16/2012 : 5:09:56 PM
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Every journey begins with a single step
I need to make a 32" girt out of 24" lumber, so that requires a joint. The prototype probably did not use beams in excess of 30 to 40 feet, but I'm not going to add joints where I do not need them.
This is a simple scarf joint with a 1 foot overlap in my 9" x 9" lumber which I will glue and clamp.
Normally, I would use my router for the scarf, but it is at my brother-in-law's house. A router is a lot faster and more precise.
In H scale i would make an 18" long tongue and corresponding slot in the other beam with my router then drill two holes and pin them with two sections of bamboo skewer.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1581 |
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Geezer
Fireman
Premium Member
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Schoolmaster
Fireman
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Posted - 01/17/2012 : 08:49:27 AM
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No, it's 1:24 
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Country: USA
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Schoolmaster
Fireman
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Posted - 01/17/2012 : 10:51:20 AM
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Cut 16 x 18' posts to hold up the beam
Adjusting the post clamps before gluing
I have not done this sort of thingg for a long time, so if there is a better/more modern way of doing things, feel free to tell me. This is very much a re-learning project for me.
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Edited by - Schoolmaster on 01/17/2012 10:58:16 AM |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1581 |
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Schoolmaster
Fireman
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Posted - 01/17/2012 : 7:09:33 PM
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The last post for the first side is done.
Because I'm lazy and imprecise, I made the beam longer than it needed to be. The post clamps guarantee even spacing, but over the 32"length of the building they may not be exactly the prototype 18'. This time, I'm about 1.5mm too long.
The clamp will transfer the same measurements to the other side.
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Country: USA
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Mike Hamer
Engineer
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Schoolmaster
Fireman
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Posted - 01/18/2012 : 09:50:03 AM
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Like Dirty Harry said:
"A man has to know his limitations"
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Country: USA
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milocomarty
Fireman
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Schoolmaster
Fireman
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Posted - 01/18/2012 : 11:02:09 AM
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Martin
It was your wharf that convinced me that I could make the pier project work; a pale imitation of your work, but the sheer size will overcome some of the other deficiencies.
How did you stain the base of your pilings were they rise from the water? There seem to be three different stains.
Aside from my general climsiness, my modelling is hampered by my severe colorblindness.
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Country: USA
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milocomarty
Fireman
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Posted - 01/18/2012 : 11:13:12 AM
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John, I stained the pillings and added the rise of water colors later, done with plain artist acrylics. Blackish burnt umber for the lower parts and a orange brown color in the middle..
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Grtz Martin..
http://cardiganbaycoastalrailroad.wordpress.com/ |
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Country: Netherlands
| Posts: 4927 |
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