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UKGuy
Fireman
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masonamerican
Crew Chief
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 Posted - 01/23/2012 : 03:57:54 AM
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Hello, here is a picture of the brake assembly underneath the car. Note that the small pipe line is not installed but will be when I have assembled the brake wheel at one of the cars end. A bit crude but good enough for me for something that is not usually very visible.
Håkan
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Country: Sweden
| Posts: 529 |
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Mike Hamer
Engineer
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luvchikn
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 01/23/2012 : 10:04:03 AM
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Thank you for the picture of the brake set up. I should have one to share this evening. Alas, Monday is here and work is in the way of my life.
Bobby
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Country: USA
| Posts: 123 |
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Dutchman
Administrator
Premium Member
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/23/2012 : 11:10:00 AM
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An Update from my Challenge thread: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35557
Tugging right along, here is my Tug Boad Christened “la Rosa Maria” (The Rosemary). I still have some more painting, touch-ups, detailing and construction left to do, but this Tug should be ending it's building process. And then, I'll be off to construct the Sam Cahoon's Fish Pier structure to complete this challenge.  
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 Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
Edited by - desertdrover on 01/23/2012 11:13:34 AM |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 11258 |
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mecrr
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 01/23/2012 : 2:50:27 PM
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I have laid out the parts for Fulasz’s firehouse which I will call “Engine No. 11”
After reading the directions provided as well as info from Downtown Deco and C. C. Crow’s website I gathered the tools suggested – 60 grade and “extra Fine (220) sandpaper sheets glued to sheet of plate glass – similar selection of sandpaper was glued to a 1 ½” x ¾” 4” piece of wood. I decided to use 5-minute epoxy for main assembly as suggested by Downtown Deco and white glue for flat pieces joined (such as roof and cornice piece.
I first sanded the roof, cornice piece and peak parts.
I next sprayed pieces with H2O, prior to applying a thin layer of white glue to the cornice piece and spread glue with my finger to insure coverage. I then placed roof piece on top of the flat cornice section and move in circular motion to insure the spreading of glue in order to make a tight bond. Next, I applied the 3 triangular peak pieces in same manner. Here are a couple of shots of the completed roof assembly and a close-up of the roof/cornice sandwich.
I next undertook the assembly of the two sections that make up the tower. The first section has windows. I was having trouble insure tight fit and then read C. C. Crow’s “How to Work with Hydrocal” on his website and he suggested bastard file to square off pieces.
The 2 section tower pieces where all prepped and sanded
I then glued trying both epoxy and white glue. After trying both, I prefer the epoxy. I broke one of the pieces of the lower tower fiddling around with the two sections while white glue dried. Once I started these pieces with white glue, I could not then switch to epoxy, so after several agonizing attempts and gathering the patience I didn’t apply in the first place, I got the broken section assembled to the other window section of the tower. I used epoxy for the balance of tower assembly and had no problem
Looking closely, I see that in spite of my careful sanding and use of the bastard file, I still have joints that will need to be addressed. This is more evident on the tower section with windows that had an overlap joining (like a shiplap wood joint) rather than a simple butt joint as used in the upper section of the tower (section on right in photo).
After the tower and roof assemblies where complete, I undertook the main building. I first secured the 4 walls rubber bands to check fit and make it easier to assemble (per Ed Fulasz’s suggestion).
The kit provides strip wood for corners that I coated with 5 –minute epoxy. The trick is to line up the exterior blocks on the corners as the top and bottom can be sanded later should they not be square.
In the directions, Ed cautions about the front wall and the delicacy of the section for the main door. It is stated that later in the directions will be mentioned how to remove the panel for door, as you can see from the photo - Too Late. My fingers went right through – fortunately it was a clean break without damage to the main casting.
Next will be dealing with the blending of brick joints and cutting window openings. After reading directions, I see that this is going to take a few days of patience and a steady hand
David
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A Maine Expatriate living in the valley of Northern California - Modeling in HO.
David Stickney |
Edited by - mecrr on 01/23/2012 3:10:45 PM |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 223 |
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Mike Hamer
Engineer
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boomer44
Section Hand
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Posted - 01/23/2012 : 5:02:36 PM
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I completed the windows today. These are perfect window castings whoever did them. The only thing I had to do was clip them off the sprue after painting. I painted these the same as the rest of the building.
The window "glass" was trimmed for upper and lower sash. I was lucky and only had to redo one glass. The window material was glued in with Pledge/Future floor wax which is really an acrylic. This material is very forgiving. Scratches disappear. I use this for all my windows.
I brushed on some chalk to represent rust from the door rollers in the door glide for the main door. I then glued the door to the glide. The door handle is wire painted a rust color and glued on. I then burnished the handle with a lead pencil to give the handle a used metal sheen. The door assembly was then glued to the building front.
I would have liked for the loft door to be smaller but I had to go with this size to hide the octagonal window opening behind it.
Gordon
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Country: USA
| Posts: 70 |
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/23/2012 : 6:13:09 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Hamer
Louis, the tug looks fabulous! Did you give her a customized name or was this one offered in the kit? Again, she looks beautiful! 
Dave, I've got the fire station by Ed Fulasz on my shelves. I'll be following along with keen interest.
Thanks Mike. The decal was made as in my Homemade custom decals _ How-to
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23297 the Tug is named after my wife.
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 11258 |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
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Posted - 01/23/2012 : 6:34:52 PM
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The variety of subjects, techniques and mediums is amazing.
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| Frederic Testard |
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Country: France
| Posts: 16438 |
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mecrr
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 01/23/2012 : 10:10:54 PM
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I had some time tonight to work on the brick joints. First I located some spackle in the garage (I think I got this from my father’s cellar a long time ago).
Then I scored all the seams with the point of a #11 blade making several passes.
I mixed about 1 teaspoon of the spackle with enough water to make a paste. I sprayed the joint with water and applied the spackle with the wide end of a toothpick.
I will let this dry overnight and begin scoring the bricks with the point of a #11 blade which should provide me with enough definition that the seam will basically be imperceptible once painted (or so I hope).
David
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A Maine Expatriate living in the valley of Northern California - Modeling in HO.
David Stickney |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 223 |
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Glen Haasdyk
Crew Chief
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Posted - 01/23/2012 : 10:13:24 PM
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Some very good work in here.
Unfortunetly my project is on hold for a few days while I do a bit of research on the prototype for the slope sheets and braking system (anyone have some pictures of that?). I contacted Sylvan and they discontinued the kit almost 10 years ago and don't have any pictures or data on it.They did mention that I will have to make a styrene filler piece for the gap as they had a desgn flaw in the kit and never fixed it. I did find a series of articles in Canadian Railway Modeller magazine that I'm looking on as well as some prototype photos. If all else fails I may have to model by the seat of my pants on this one.
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Edited by - Glen Haasdyk on 01/23/2012 10:18:10 PM |
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Country: Canada
| Posts: 770 |
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Dutchman
Administrator
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/23/2012 : 10:35:14 PM
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I am almost done with two HOn3 under frames - one a 26 footer and the other a 28 footer.
Here the 26' frame is in progress over the drawing.
The 28' frame is off the drawing and painted.
Next up will be the brake rigging.
The detailed build: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35550
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Bruce
Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3 |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 23228 |
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luvchikn
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 01/23/2012 : 11:15:47 PM
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many Thanks Dutch! Wow, it looks so easy. I will follow the link to the build. The other link you provided came up as access denied. But again thank you for the thought.
With the work week now upon us, my modeling time is very limited. I just got my marching orders for the night and it looks like KP for me. Sounds like barracks inspections around here. Gotta get my gear squared away for the Admiral (wife). Can you believe she wants me to pick up my modeling stuff off of the kitchen table? GEEZ!
But I will get a look at the link in the morning.
Bobby
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Country: USA
| Posts: 123 |
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