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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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 Posted - 04/07/2012 : 4:29:48 PM
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Hi all, been awhile since I worked on this prodject, so here is an update.
A while back (post of 1-2-12) I stated that I would be able to remove all of the electronics from the tender without unsoldering anything. Well, I was mistaken. I had the tender pickup wires routed thru a post and then to the piece of circut board.
I would have to unsolder the wires to remove all.
I have rerouted the wires to pass thru the hole for the 4post plug. The pickup board will pass thru this hole.
So, now everything will lift out and by pulling the bulb from the rear lite the decoder and speaker is completely separate.
Here is the completed wiring install
and a close up
and a final one with the tender closed up
This finishes the decoder install. Now, I need to finish detailing, installing the headlite, the smokebox front will be a press fit so I can access the lite bulb if need be, and then weather the engine.
I am wondering if anybody has tried to attach the cab to the boiler casting so that they are one piece? The backhead can only be installed, as far as I can figure, after both the boiler and cab are fasten down as the throttle handle and the gauges and piping is in the way if you have stuck it on before the cab.
Any thoughts on this? Thanks for looking and comments.
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 984 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/08/2012 : 4:20:53 PM
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Here is what I have done to mount the cab to the boiler casting. There is a small gap between the cab and the boiler.
I filled it with a piece of .040" thick styrene shaped to fit the spot.
I then drilled a 00-90 tapping hole thru the cab into the mating surface on the boiler
and tapped for a 00-90 1/4" screw. Then ran a 00-90 clearence drill thru the cab hole and screwed together.
and with the backhead in place.
This now lets me thread the piping into their proper holes in the front of the cab and they will stay there. I will also be able to touch up the scratches from installing the pipe ends.
The cab/boiler assembly will now drop straight down over the motor and can be screwed down without the cab twisting around.
I was a little concerned that one screw would not be enough to hold but it holds tight.
Some black paint on the screw head and with the johnson bar and engineer in place the screw shouldn't be too oblivious.
Pictures of the detailing and weathering will follow as they are done.
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 984 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/21/2012 : 4:34:30 PM
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Been working on some of the details and thought that I would post pictures of my progress so far.
Made a push pole and another tool box. The push pole is from a piece of .060" styrene rod a scale 14' long When painted will have steel ends and a couple of steel bands around the pole. They are carved in but not show up in the pic. The pole brackets are .015"brass wire bent into a "U" shape and filed flat across the bottom.
Did not like the orginal cab steps so made new ones. The side pieces are .030"x.060" strip a scale 27" long from the notch. The steps are made from a 1/16" "H" beam with 3 of the legs cut off leaving a 6" step with a 3" high backstop. I would have prefered to go longer but they would interfere with the U-joint. Here, compared with the orginal step
and a picture of one in place. When glued in place will trim off the top of the pegs.
As you can see it's still a ways up to the bottom step
After I get more details made will then paint all.
More to follow some time...
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 984 |
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/21/2012 : 8:45:00 PM
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Nice progress Phil. I do like the idea of mounting the cab to the boiler, and also like the water filler and hatch changes.
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 Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 11333 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/22/2012 : 3:21:51 PM
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Thank you, Louis.
If anybody wants to attach the cab be very careful to get the bolt holes lined up and the cab in the right position. It would be best if you screw the cab and boiler down on the frame and then drill.I didn't  just held them together on the bench. Had to enlarge the clearence hole in the cab a bit. What happens when you rush.
Talked with my brother last night and I think I'll see if I can move the steps outboard some to clear the U-joint and make them longer, three steps instead of two.
Somehow I have missed placed my rear ladder that goes on the back of the tender. Quess I'll have to make one. As everyone knows it will show up after.
Posted a question in the crew lounge about the colour of the green paint Bachmann used inside of the cab.
Later,
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 984 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/27/2012 : 02:05:49 AM
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Well, with the responses I recieved on my colour question I will be repainting the interior of the cab. I think that I will go with more of a dirty wood colour than a green since this is a wood cab.
Made a brake stand that projects out from the corner of the seat/front wall junction. Couldn't go any higher or I wouldn't be able to access the screw.
Here temporary in place. might make the face of the screw the gauge.
I had a Cal-scale Pyle National generator laying around so decided to use it here. Pulled up some pictures of them and found where the steam in line connected at and added the pipe. Made a better exhaust pipe and glued it in place.
When I get the black paint out this will get a coat.
More later,
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 984 |
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/27/2012 : 09:35:53 AM
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Nice job with the brake stand Phil, and great addition using the generator. That makes a great looking detail to the shay.
And changing the inside cab color was a wise choice. 
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 11333 |
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/27/2012 : 10:37:51 AM
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Here is a gauge from a shay, maybe you could copy it, resize it, and use it over that screw.
Also, maybe of interest to you, here are some shay cab interiors.
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 11333 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/27/2012 : 11:00:43 PM
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Louis,
Thanks for the pictures, Will have to study them closely. A quick glance shows a lot of valves that aren't on the B'mann shay backhead.
If you look in the lower left corner of my last posted pic you will see the brown on the rear wall of the cab.
I added a couple of gauges to the brake stand.
I was thinking of leaving the sides of the screw unpainted and paint the face white.
Nice idea of resizing the gauge pic but I don't think the numbers would show in HO scale.
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 984 |
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/28/2012 : 09:53:44 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Carrie Creek
Louis,
Thanks for the pictures, Will have to study them closely. A quick glance shows a lot of valves that aren't on the B'mann shay backhead.
If you look ...................................
Nice idea of resizing the gauge pic but I don't think the numbers would show in HO scale.
You are right about not seeing the gauge in HO scale. I guess it is best to paint the middle of the screw head white, then just dab a few black dots for the illusion of numbers on the dial.
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 11333 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/05/2012 : 02:10:56 AM
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While letting some paint dry here are some pics of the backhead. I made some injectors and stuck them on the pipes that run down along side the boiler. Some pics of before I painted and some after.
tool boxes, wood crates, another bucket, the push pole with the steel bands painted, cab steps and the brakestand
The paint that is drying is on the details seen in the first pic. I also painted the Tuscan Red on the cab window frames which the back wall shows in the second pic and gave the whole engine a coat of Grimy Black.
More as it happens...
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 984 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/06/2012 : 12:56:50 AM
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Well, here are some pics of the cab all put together.
with the cab back wall installed
view thru the left side
view thru the right side
an overall pic of the right side of the shay, no engines yet, waiting to be painted
and a view into the cab over the fuel bunker
Still needs some touch ups
Seems that the Grimy Black has turned blueish. Even without the flash there is still a blue cast. Thinking of stripping it off but will I lose the Shay Builder Plate decal on the cab? Can I get some somewhere?
That's it for now, more later...
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 984 |
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/06/2012 : 10:51:15 AM
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I'd leave well enough alone. However, if you do want to go the re-paint route, try taking a picture of the shay builders plate and print up your own decal of it. IMO
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 11333 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/06/2012 : 3:05:57 PM
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Thanks, Louis, I'll quess I'll leave it as is unless I get fed up with it. I might try, after making a copy of the decal, of placing a piece of masking tape over before trying to strip.
Will get the fine brush out and finish the touchup painting.
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 984 |
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vzjtothalo
Section Hand
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Posted - 05/06/2012 : 4:17:35 PM
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Phil:
If you don't like the Grimy Black finish (yes, it is quite blueish), maybe toning it down with chalks or powders is in order. I do that with Floquil Weathered Black, which is also blueish.
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John Loesch
For God so loved the world, he did not send a committee.... |
Edited by - vzjtothalo on 05/06/2012 4:18:32 PM |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 90 |
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