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 Bachmann 3T shay decoder install
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Author Previous Topic: extra function decoders?? Topic Next Topic: status lite for power
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 12/17/2011 :  4:59:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This will be a thread detailing the modifications I did to my B'mann 3 truck shay installing a LOK sound decoder with the 100ohm speaker.
On to the next post,
Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950

Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 12/17/2011 :  5:44:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Continuing:
To start, I measured and test fitted the decoder and speaker into the tender. With the orginal C board removed there is more than enough room but not with the included speaker enclosure. If I made the whole tender shell as the sound box with the speaker facing down thru the floor it would work. So, I cut the enclosure apart leaving just the ring that holds the speaker rim. I had to remove the 2 rear mounting posts that held the orginal C board. I drilled some holes in the tender frame. The speaker also overlapped the hole that the wires from the tender pick up tab was fed thru so I used the front mounting post and ran the wires thru there.

the cut off piece of enclosure notched to fit down snuggly on the floor of the tender


the frame showing the mods


and the speaker ring siliconed to the floor and the wires from the pickup tab


Sorry about the small pics I had to get them below the 200kb threshold for posting.
Onward, I wanted to use the orginal wire connections so I cut off the plugs/socket end of the PCB and drilled and tapped a new mounting screw.(00-90) Needed also to add a .060" thick pad to hold the CB off the frame.








The two pickup wires will solder to the correct posts along with the red/black wires from the decoder to the 2 prong connector.
The 4 prong connector will carry the gray/orange motor and the white/blue headlite wires.
The resistors for the lites will also be mounted here in the tender.

This is it for this installment, more on the boiler mods later. Thanks for looking and any comments.


Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950 Go to Top of Page

Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 12/31/2011 :  04:46:12 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
continuing:
After affixing the ring to the tender frame I made a cap and drilled and tapped 4 holes in the tender frame for the 4 00-90 1/4" hex head brass bolts to hold the speaker in place. I decided that the decoder should lay on something rather than taped to the under side of the tank top. If the tape should let go then it would fall on top of the speaker, not a good thing. So, added some spacers and crossmembers over the top of the speaker to hold it up.





need to solder the wires in place yet.

I added a little more weight to the shay by filling in the voids in the bottom of the firebox with lead.



I didn't like the way the water hatch was flush with the top so I extended it and made a new lid. As my model did not come with the external water fill piping I made one and will have it positional. Picture here of the tank top and the filler pipe from the siphon pump.




And, again, I apologize for the smallness of some of these pictures. I can not upload anything over 200kbs.
A bunch of soldering to do before any more updates. When finished the only thing that will be attached to the tank body will be the rear lite. Unplug the two connectors and remove 5 screws and everything else comes out.

Would like to add more weight to the tender as its truck is 1oz lighter than the engine trucks.
So,later...


Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950 Go to Top of Page

Graffen
Crew Chief



Posted - 12/31/2011 :  04:58:23 AM  Show Profile  Visit Graffen's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looks like a real tidy installation there :-)
I recommend that you get as much weight as you possibly can in the tender.
The problems I had with my Shay's performance with the tender derailing, lead to the 2 truck conversion I did on mine......
Now I have to see how to install a sound decoder in mine... :-)


Swedish custom painter
http://sites.google.com/site/graffairbrushart

Country: Sweden | Posts: 861 Go to Top of Page

Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 12/31/2011 :  12:38:28 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the kind words, Michael. I think that I have room to glue a couple of 3/16"x1/4"x1.5" lead bars along the top sides which would be close to another 1oz.
I am thinking about painting the inside of the tank with the liquid electrical tape.

The tool box on the top instead of gluing it down I drilled and tapped for a 00-90 screw fastening.

Thanks for looking and comments
Later...


Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 12/31/2011 :  3:57:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Phil nice looking install so far on your part. Sure looks like alot of work though, but I'm sure it will be well worth it all in the end. I was lucky enough to have put in the Soundtraxx plug-n-Play sound decoders for my two Locomotives when they were available. However, they sound good but I would think the LOK sound decoder with the 100ohm speaker is going to sound Great.

Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 01/01/2012 :  3:02:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Louis,
Thanks, for the kind words. This hasn't been a lot of work, just test fitting and deciding how I needed to do it.

Here are a couple of pics of the lead weights I casted for the tender. Since i just needed two of them I carved the mold in a piece of 2x4 pine. About set the pine on fire with the second pour but all is well.

These are 3/16"x1/4"x1 11/16" long. After triming to size ended up weighing 1.1oz total. This will bring the weight on the tender truck to 5.1oz the same as the engine trucks.

The weights


and where they will reside


more later,



Phil
POR (press on regardless)

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closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/01/2012 :  7:44:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi All
One note. The issue with the tender derailment can be addressed by extending the holes in the draw bar thus increasing the clearance between the tender and the shay. The derailment comes when negotiating tight curves and the 2 frames rub against each other. I've done this 2 all 3 of my shays and stopped the derailment problems. At least this was the problem and solution I came up for me.
Mike M



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closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/01/2012 :  7:47:37 PM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Phil
I also did what you have with all the removal of posts. I fit a 1" speaker on the tender floor. I did not worry about installing an actual speaker enclosure however. Since the tender top effectively stopped all sound waves from the rear of the speaker from getting out, I had no problem with cancellation of sound waves .
Mike M



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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 01/02/2012 :  1:58:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mike,
I am using the tender top as the enclosure. I did not want to affix the speaker to the floor which is why I have the ring and the plastic piece screwed to the floor clamping the speaker inplace. This way, if needed, I can remove all of the electronics except the rear lite and not have to unsolder anything.

Thanks for the heads up on the clearence issue will check it out on my 18"r curves.

The extra weight wasn't for any derailement problems but a desire to have the same weight on all of the driving wheels. I figure that the pulling power would be better that way.

Have a ? though. One of the weights will block access to the screw holding the tool box down so, should I cut a gap for access later as I was planning on not gluing them in until all the detailing and painting was done.

Thanks again for the comments and for looking.
Later,


Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950 Go to Top of Page

simon1966
Fireman



Posted - 01/02/2012 :  2:29:06 PM  Show Profile  Visit simon1966's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Phil, if you don't mind me saying so, but this is a very impressive install. I did one back in the day when Soundtraxx had the custom decoder for the model, so it was a bit easier to accomplish then.


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djdutch
Crew Chief



Posted - 01/02/2012 :  7:57:48 PM  Show Profile  Visit djdutch's Homepage  Reply with Quote
great install

I bought mine without the sound,unfortunately.
when I got it on track at home I discovered that the side gears where crackt (all of them) :(
and the last truck was derailing only when I let it go backwards on a turnout is that only a weigth problem ?

regards DJ


DJ

Country: Netherlands | Posts: 521 Go to Top of Page

closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/03/2012 :  11:05:26 AM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
DJ
check the draw bar clearance. The tender and main frame rub when negotiating tight curves.
Mike M



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djdutch
Crew Chief



Posted - 01/04/2012 :  7:13:19 PM  Show Profile  Visit djdutch's Homepage  Reply with Quote
hello mike,

thanks for your reply I had to wait untill it come back to look at it
but I also recived the old revarossi two truck heisler this week to play with :)

regards DJ


DJ

Country: Netherlands | Posts: 521 Go to Top of Page

closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/04/2012 :  9:37:53 PM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Phil.
I just blew out my speaker. I'll use your method when I install a new one. The Short tube will help with sound isolation even more. The Tsunami's are 1 watt of power. Used a 1/4 watt speaker with a 1 watt amp. OOPS. The sub 200 hz bass region is a power draw and overloaded the speaker.
DJ -- enjoy the heisler. I converted mine to DCC with a TCS decoder.The motor is a can motor and isolated from the frame. I like TCS because they seem to be built proof.
Mike M



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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 01/05/2012 :  3:45:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Simon, Thanks for the come back, much appreciated. My brother put a Soundtraxx plug&play in his a long time ago. He wasn't impressed with the sound or that he lost so much weight having to place the speaker in the fuel bunker. He has replaced it with either a Tsunami or a LOK Sound unit, I don't remember which.

DJ, we haven't had any derail problems with Tom's 3T on his Kill Creek Camp #3. He has Shinohara #4s and 24"r & 30"r curves. When desigining the track we tried to not have any reverse curves. I wasn't having any either when running this one with DC on my switching module's #4s. We will find out here on the CCLC's 18"r curves and "S" curves.

Have you checked your wheels and turnouts for gauge?

Mike, sorry to hear about your speaker, hope you can find the correct one. BTW, my speaker is a little over 1/16" above the floor of the tender. I am hoping that I have enough holes so I don't have any bounce back into the speaker.

There will not be any updates this weekend, need to go see mom.

Later,


Phil
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 950 Go to Top of Page
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