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 SS Ltd Boiler,Steam Engine&Water Pump Build
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closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/02/2011 :  09:35:05 AM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi All
I'm taking a break from the Tool House/Pillar crane and starting this build.The Boiler,Steam Engine and water pump will be used to power a sawmill down the line.
The 3 kits came from the new owner Peter, so they are a new generation of castings and parts. Unlike older kits these come in a plastic bag no box. Instructions are typical SS LTD instructions, sparse. Peter and I have talked and he is upgrading instructions and pictures on all the kits. This build will help with these 3 kits. It is truly a craftsman/scratch build kit. A cool change is that the card stock in the kit is now.5mm thick styrene. Much better to work with. So here goes the build
Mike M


Country: USA | Posts: 1855

closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/02/2011 :  10:50:09 AM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Lets get started.
Typical SS LTD instructions. A few sheets including scale drawings which in this case are about 96% of scale and some rudimentary instructions. This is the boiler and pump set.



I just found this gem at a local flea market and will get good use of it starting with this build. A small guillotine paper cutter from Sears. Unique that the blade is the metal top insert not in the handle like most. Real sturdy with a cast metal handle.




Instructions say to build the inner walls of the boiler from cardstock. It says you can make any size you want as long as it is no smaller than 1oft x 109" x 20ft . The boiler face castings scale out to 96" wide x 126" tall.


So I'm going 10ft wide x 126" tall x 19 feet long plus castings.
The card stock is actually now .5mm styrene. So I squared up the 3 pieces on the cutter and cut them to the above dimensions.






After my last experience using scotch tape, I now only use blue masking tape for holding things together for gluing. I spaced the stock a thickness apart to account for folding .








I cut the boiler top piece 2 feet bigger around. That was to allow for the styrene thickness and overlap.



Pickup this bag of match sticks from Michaels a while back. Will finally put them to use as corner supports.







I used medium set ACC to glue the wood to the styrene. It seems to hold ok..
Mike M



Country: USA | Posts: 1855 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/02/2011 :  11:20:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mike, just out of curiosity: Why not use square styrene instead of the wood for the corner braces? (I'd be afraid that the matchsticks might be out of square.)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8428 Go to Top of Page

closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/02/2011 :  11:25:23 AM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi All
I pulled the tape and cleaned up the seams with a quick flat sanding. I like to take self stick rolled sand paper, stick to the work surface and just run things square that way. I use the 3M papers for this.







The sheets of material provided are an odd size . The styrene and brick sheets are over size and the steel plating sheets are to small for one sheet to cover.
The brick sheeting is really nice. It has a heavy feel to it Embossed paper with a really deep mortar line. The red is a nice color.

What i did not want to end up with was 4 pieces glued to the boiler core and white lines at all the corners. So I decided to score the brick sheets at the corners and fold around to the face. The castings will cover the seam as long as it's kept to the center of the face. So no highly visible white line at the corners and the brick looks like it is built in place by matching up front and side.





this is the 3M tape that I had talked about in the Double Sided Tape topic last week. Its a a thin film and sticks to everything. It's applied with this gun.





The gun/tape combo can be a real pain to operate. I've thrown 2 of these around the shop in frustration while learning how to use them. I've been know to have a temper tantrum occasionally.they are plastic and they to break apart real nice.

Careful cutting of the brick sheets and than really careful measuring before scoring and bending. I started by sticking down the 1/2 face and worked around from there. If the tape grabs ,there is no repositioning. The paper will tear if you try and remove it. The tape holds to the styrene like iron. Nice to not worry about over spray or water damage from glue.











Castings cover the seams perfectly





Mike M



Country: USA | Posts: 1855 Go to Top of Page

closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/02/2011 :  11:34:25 AM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Steel Plating sheets


They have a nice 3 dimension feel and look with the raised printing. Again, they are an odd size .Too small to cover the boiler in one piece. I decided to join them down the middle The steam dome is in the middle so it will cover some of the seam. I tried interlacing , the printing of lines and bolts is brittle and falls apart when cutting.
I drew what I thought was well measured line down the middle of the boiler. Nope. I was off by 1 mm from square. I did not notice it until I had glued down the sheets and and trimmed them. I was out of square at one end by a heavy 1/16" and it shows.





Ouch. Not only out of square but the seam is way to large. Nothing can hide this screw up. I e-mailed Peter and asked for him to send me a single sheet the correct size. I've removed the offending sheets. I'll put the boiler aside and start the Steam Engine while waiting for the sheet.

Mike M



Country: USA | Posts: 1855 Go to Top of Page

BobB
New Hire

Posted - 12/02/2011 :  11:54:47 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Mike,
Nice start. I have the same kit so will be following your progress.

BobB



Country: USA | Posts: 44 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 12/02/2011 :  1:05:18 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Mike, I'll be following your post. I have several of these kits, bought a few years back and some. Same with the machines from SS Ltd. I've built the boiler and steam engine a couple of times, and will be interested to see the differences in our builds. I have one installed in a machine shop I scratchbuilt some 20 years ago, still one of my favorite models. I'll post a pic if your interested.

Tony Burgess


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 3151 Go to Top of Page

closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/02/2011 :  2:25:48 PM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi All
Dave. I've never built with styrene before. To admit my ignorance I actually thought the card stock was a special paper product that had a plastic sheen to it. I've worked with melamine infused sheets so much that the idea of a paper being coated with a resin was not out of the ordinary for me. When I asked Peter about it, he informed me it was styrene. Since the box was square and the brick facade was going to go around the corners, I was not too worried about the edges on the boiler inner walls. The wood was just there to act as stiffener to the corner and since I used a medium thick ACC if there was any problem with the sticks being square the gaps would be filled with the thick ACC. Through trial and error, I've learned that if you give thick ACC time to set(24hrs or so) it's an amazing gap filler.
Tony. Would love to see your builds. Post a few pictures. All help is appreciated since the instructions and pictures suck.(sorry Peter, I know you're fixing it)
Mike M



Country: USA | Posts: 1855 Go to Top of Page

closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/02/2011 :  2:27:21 PM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thank you Bob
Mike M



Country: USA | Posts: 1855 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 12/02/2011 :  3:36:51 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by closetguy

Hi All
Tony. Would love to see your builds. Post a few pictures. All help is appreciated since the instructions and pictures suck.(sorry Peter, I know you're fixing it)
Mike M



Sure will, I'll post it under a new thread so it doesn't clog all yours up. I'll send a link soon.
Tony


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 3151 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 12/02/2011 :  3:37:28 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by closetguy

Hi All
Tony. Would love to see your builds. Post a few pictures. All help is appreciated since the instructions and pictures suck.(sorry Peter, I know you're fixing it)
Mike M



Sure will, I'll post it under a new thread so it doesn't clog all yours up. I'll send a link soon.
Tony


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 3151 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 12/02/2011 :  4:12:52 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
OK, here is the link to my machine shop. There are some 35 pictures I posted. I thought it better to post is separately because of this.
Tony

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35010

Called "machine shop with SS Ltd machines"


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 3151 Go to Top of Page

closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/03/2011 :  11:06:49 AM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
While waiting for the steel plate sheet, here is the Steam Engine.. Some of the parts are real clean, others have a lot of flash.




Ive done a trial fitting of all the parts as I clean them up. Some are obvious in what they are and where they go, while a few are mysteries. I'll takes pictures of all steps so that future builders have an easier time at assembly. Cleaned up and ready for finishing. I'm going to give everything a vinegar bath and than a black-in it bath. I'll than paint certaion parts before assembly.



The metal castings are harder. Filling took longer, but there was less clogging of the files. The only soft piece is the crank shaft. It does bend easy. Be careful when handling. I drilled shaft holes in the flywheel and drive wheel.I drilled out all dimpled holes to allow play when assembling. The piston hole in the cylinder was drilled deep. I have not decided yet if the crank flywheels are going to be facing down or up and the depth of the piston shaft will be affected.
Mike M



Country: USA | Posts: 1855 Go to Top of Page

closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/03/2011 :  8:00:29 PM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Howdy All
Here are the parts after a vinegar soak for 30 minutes. Sheen is all gone.


After a 20 minute soak in black-in it


After an hour of drying


This is the coloring after being brushed with a nylon wire brush. I like the burnishing effect.

Mike M



Country: USA | Posts: 1855 Go to Top of Page

wvrr
Fireman



Posted - 12/03/2011 :  8:45:42 PM  Show Profile  Visit wvrr's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I think they look great, from the photos. I can only imagine what the parts look like in person. I was never successful with BlackenIt on metal castings. I will have to try the vinegar bath as a first step, next time.

Chuck




Country: | Posts: 6595 Go to Top of Page

closetguy
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/03/2011 :  9:32:31 PM  Show Profile  Visit closetguy's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Chuck
I had the same problem. I would get an uneven coloring and not that deep into the metal. I was always told to pickle the metal before painting so finally I listen to that advice. I tried it for the first time on the machinery build I did. Some of the parts I decided not to paint and went back to use the black-in it. I was surprised at how pickling made such a big difference.



Country: USA | Posts: 1855 Go to Top of Page
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