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 Full Steam Ahead's "Blue Ridge Coal Co."
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Author Previous Topic: foreground tree - experiment Topic Next Topic: Cheap 3D printer noted
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Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 12/02/2011 :  10:16:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi everyone, I only managed a little work on this project this evening.
I watched the movie "Super 8" with my family instead.
This movie is fantastic, especially if you grew up in the 70's.
Brought back some good memories for me.
Enough jibberish, show the nice folks what you did tonight!
This kit comes with a nice assortment of signs.
I wanted something a little larger then offered on this sheet.
For the large back wall of the tipple.
I was looking at Joe's photo's in the instructions, and noticed at the top of the page.


A large "Blue Ridge Coal Co."sitting right there.
So I measured how long it was....and it will fit.
I cut it out glued it on to a thin piece of styrene.
And painted some 2x4 material blue and framed it using it.Gave this sign a wash of A&I and here it is.
I will add lights above this sign eventually as part of this build.



I also glued in the coal elevator.





This is the page that gives you this nice sign.




That's it for now.
Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8279 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 12/03/2011 :  4:27:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey everyone, it's all about coal chutes today.
These holes in the front of my model have been bothering me, it's time to cover them up!
This kit comes with these really cool laser etched coal door assemblies.
I have already spray painted mine flat black.




Each coal door will need 1 cover plate, the large one with coal written on it. 1 door & 2 shims.





You must glue the shins on either side of the cover plate on the backside.See photo below.





I also spray painted the plastic castings silver that we will need for this task as well.





I added a bit of rust paint to these chutes to make them look less new.





I then gave them a wash of India Ink & alcohol.





When these were dry,I glued them into the tipple.
Sticking about half way out.





when these dried, I started to install the doors & cover plates.
You start with the door, either gluing it in an open or closed position shown on the left of this next photo.





You then glue over the door the cover plate seen on the right in the photo above.

When I finished all of these doors,I gave them a little Bragdon rust powder.






There is one more piece of the chute to add on to these coal chutes yet.
But we will hold off on installing them yet.
To keep us from braking them off while we still work on this tipple.





That's all for now.
Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8279 Go to Top of Page

wvrr
Fireman



Posted - 12/03/2011 :  5:49:42 PM  Show Profile  Visit wvrr's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Jeez, those look nice Greg. I like the Coal signs over the chutes. It is a really cool detail. But, what else would there be behind those doors? I'm just wondering why there would be a need for them, unless these types of places also might hold other products in some of the bins.

Chuck



Country: | Posts: 6491 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 12/03/2011 :  7:15:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Chuck! You can have what's behind door Number 1 or door Number 3.
Yes, you would think that behind all of those doors would be coal.
I do seem to recall though,seeing an old photo that showed this type of business.And remember seeing the word coke in it. Not the drink .
I would also guess that tipples could have been built into separate storage bins on the inside.
Perhaps they even offered better grades of coal.
You can buy the cheap stuff or you can buy the expensive stuff. It's up to you.
In the end it all burns, just how.
I agree with you about the coal signs being a cool detail too.
Thanks so much for your interest in this build!

Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8279 Go to Top of Page

wvrr
Fireman



Posted - 12/03/2011 :  8:40:00 PM  Show Profile  Visit wvrr's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Greg,

Well, as I told you, I have a resin version of the same structure. And, I have to assemble it, someday. But, it will be a bugger.

And, I do think there were separate bins inside. Maybe not to separate the quality of the coal. Instead, the separate bins probably divide the different sizes of coal.

I have really enjoyed your build, so far. When it is all done, I plan to capture this thread into a Word document for future reference.

Anyway, I located some photos of the resin kit I have. This was produced for a very short period more than 10 years ago. The problem I have with it is that it is cast in black resin. There is a lot of detail there, so I will need to paint it to bring it all out. That is something that will be really challenging to do. But, it looks like it can be done, based on the photos.





Chuck



Country: | Posts: 6491 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 12/03/2011 :  9:25:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Chuck, thanks for posting those photo's of your kit.
They are identical in design, Joe's kit has that additional platform on the end of the tipple.
And a little tool shed that fits under the tipple, I have not built yet.
And also the office & scales I still have to build.
but other then that, they are pretty much the same.
Chuck,alright it's time you let that old resin kit go.
I know you have been thinking about it,now resign yourself to that fact.
Don't let my build go down in vain.

Sorry, I've started my Christmas jollification program a little early this year!

Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8279 Go to Top of Page

Peterpools
Engineer



Posted - 12/03/2011 :  9:57:45 PM  Show Profile  Visit Peterpools's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Greg
Just starting to catch up with the going on and read through your thread. Thoroughly enjoyed your build. Excellent work on the Coal Co and it's weathered just perfectly: used but not abused.
Peter



Country: USA | Posts: 12335 Go to Top of Page

Joe Rutter
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/03/2011 :  10:53:25 PM  Show Profile  Visit Joe Rutter's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Greg:

You are modelling very, very well with this kit. You make it look so easy and you explain your steps clearly and thorougly. Your builds are a model of excllence.

I can't even slip an inside joke in the instructions on you! I put the "hardcore" modeller comment in for the legs and pins just for you and you spotted it right away!

Chuck:

I was hoping to see a picture of the kit you mentioned. It is great to see what another modeler did in resin. I think the back wall sections are bang on with the prototype models section. As far as the coal chutes go I agonized and researched them for a long time. The prototype did have separate bins and grades so the 5 chutes did vary. The raised letter is a combination of plates I discovered in my research. What would you expect to come out of that chute other than COAL??? That gave me a good laugh tonight.

Great stuff,

Joe



Country: Canada | Posts: 485 Go to Top of Page

elwoodblues
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 12/03/2011 :  10:55:15 PM  Show Profile  Visit elwoodblues's Homepage  Send elwoodblues a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Chutes look great Greg and I also thing that the word "coal" on the chutes are a nice detail.


Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railway Co.
http://cvry.ca

Country: Canada | Posts: 6446 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 12/04/2011 :  09:29:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hello Peter, Joe & Ron, thanks for your posts guys!
Joe, you are the one that has made this kit easy to build,not me.I am simply following your hardcore instructions & jigs.

Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8279 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 12/04/2011 :  11:32:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Oh! One other thing I did yesterday, but forgot to show was the electrical box with the conduit running to it.
The kit shows the conduit just going into the tipple. I changed it a bit and ran the conduit up through the roof, into a masthead.
This is an extra SS Ltd. casting that does not come with this kit.
I have temporarily placed the roofing panel to show this masthead and how it will look with the conduit running up to it.
I am going to work on the lights today.
And will try and post something about those aspects a little later today.





Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8279 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 12/04/2011 :  11:51:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Greg, the details are terrific. The chutes and doors are nicely done by Joe, and your weathering really makes them 'pop'.


Country: USA | Posts: 31220 Go to Top of Page

DaVinci1953
Crew Chief

Posted - 12/04/2011 :  5:10:42 PM  Show Profile  Visit DaVinci1953's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looking great!
Joe...that's my favourite kit of yours so far!


Lance Russwurm
http//www.lancerusswurm.com

Country: Canada | Posts: 684 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 12/04/2011 :  6:14:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Bruce!

Okay as I mentioned earlier,I must start the lighting now of this tipple before I can start the roof.I believe, that a structure without lighting effects, is really a lost opportunity to add another layer of realism to your model.
So, as you should know by now,I do this with all of my structures.(I need all the help I can get)
I begin tonight with the steps needed to make up the several goose neck lights in the lighting of this kit, that I will use.
Also Due to the number of photo's needed to explain things,I will only tackle one aspect at a time.
The first thing we will use in the making of these goose neck lamps are these shades & escutcheons.





All of the parts that make up these lights, I purchased from www.ngineering.com or are also available from www.microlumina.com
I have no affiliation with either of these companies.
Now you must drill a hole into these parts using a #77 drill bit.
I place the lampshade on my finger tip and carefully drill a hole into it.





Don't worry, no fingers were hurt in the filming of this project.
After I had the shades done, I did the escutcheons.
For these I wrap a piece of masking tape around my finger tip, to help hold these little guys.





Now because these parts are small I keep them in a plastic snap shut case until ready to use them.





Next we will make up the goosenecks, using this stainless steel .018 tubing.
[shown here in the photo below.)




The first thing I do to this tubing is place it in a pin vise, one that allows you to pass the length of tubing right through it.
Like you see in this photo below.





You want to hold this tubing in a secure position while you flare the end of the tubing.
I do this using a thumb tac, I push the pointed end of the tac into the tubing and swirl it around.





You don't need a big flare, so just a gentle motion will do.
This flaring of the tube will hold the shade we drilled at the start, and keep it from slipping off.
Here is a photo showing how little of a flare you actually need.





After the tubing has been flared we are going to use this jig.Which you can purchase from either of the nice dealers mentioned earlier.
This jig will allow us to bend this tubing into a goose neck shape.




You begin by inserting the flared end we just made in between the first 2 pins in the jig. You also want to make certain that the flared end of the tube is touching the black line I have drawn on this jig.This line is equal to the bottom of the first pin.





You then start bending the tube around the second pin.Making certain that you are keeping everthing flat & even. Don't bend up.





You bend the tubing until you just clear the third pin hole, and then you pop that pin in place





You then bend the tubing back against the third pin, until you just clear the fourth pin hole.
You can then pop in the fourth & fifth pins in.





You now have a goose neck, just remove the last 2 pins you placed in and it will pop right out.





You then cut this from the rest of the tubing. Making certain you leave enough to work with.
The cutters crush the tubes ends, so you must use a dremil tool to clean up the ends again to allow the wires we still must feed in to pass through them.





We are now ready to install the shade & escutcheon too the goose neck. You will use a little tiny amount of 5 minute epoxy to secure the shade in place over your flaring.





You then slip the escutcheon on to the neck. you will glue this into place once it's on the building.





These will be painted once installed and we still have the LED's to hook up and feed the wires into this lamp. Which we will discuss next time.Here is how our first light looks again on the tipple.





That's all for now!
Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8279 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 12/04/2011 :  6:27:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by DaVinci1953

Looking great!
Joe...that's my favourite kit of yours so far!



Hey thanks Lance!

Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8279 Go to Top of Page
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