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Ironhand_13
Section Hand
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 Posted - 09/22/2011 : 7:46:36 PM
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First off, please forgive me. I've used my web browser on this subject so much it sighs and casts me a pathetic glare, then slowly loads 'the ususals'.
Ok, everything I've come across gives diagrams for a DPDT switch inconjuction with a Tortise or other motorized switch, or as a power router for the turnout. Ok, but...
I'm strictly manual here. REAL old-school basic. My layout uses push/pull rods (coat hangers) running through my fascia then through a hole drilled into a DPDT switch, 90 degrees up through the scenery base, then piano wire connects to a modified Rix groundthrow. It actually pulls/pushes the throwbar while turning the signal target. Lost that link when I got a new PC. The source mentioned that you could then use the switch to power a light indicator. Twoyears later the time has come.
I'm busy carving mountains when there is a last-minute OK from the railroad CFO (wife) allowing a 10 x 3 foot area for a maintanence siding/possible turntable/roundhouse along an 'unused' wall. This translates to a turnout in a foam tunnel. I was at the scenery stage, even applied some foam in certain areas, then got this new area of the layout. Because of that, updated benchwork has been 99% complete, but I need to finish this mini-project before it gets alot harder to do so. Adding those last two boards joining the new wall-mounted siding to the existing layout will make it very difficult to deal with in the future. I plan on scratch-building two light stands on either side of a tunnel to indicate to the scale world, as well as me the operator, which way the throw is going.
So, despite being DCC, I like the manual and visul aspect of my turnouts. My 1 lighted scrachbuilt building (but more on the way) runs off a 12-volt wallwart from my Grade Crossing Pro system, and I will use that to light my track indicators. That is how I planned my layout from the start, and not gonna change.
I have LEDs, 1K 1/4 watt resistors (plus a few others if need be), DPDT switches, and foolish ambition. All I need is a wiring diagram so I don't blow my LEDs or melt my resistor.
Thanks in advance!
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 09/22/2011 : 10:21:55 PM
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I understand your hole drilled into a DPDT switch concept, with the 90 degrees up through the scenery base, and piano wire connecting to a modified groundthrow for switching. I saw a how-to article in a past Model Railroader, or Railroad Model craftsman, about it.
What I believe you want to do is come off the DPDT and light an LED at your fascia to see what direction your switch is in. So this wiring diogram would do that for you. I hope this helps you out.
Also, here is a past thread of a way another member(John Johnston)did his; http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23644
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 Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
Edited by - desertdrover on 09/23/2011 09:54:56 AM |
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slimjerkins
Fireman
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Posted - 09/23/2011 : 10:37:46 AM
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I know you mentioned that you already have your LEDs - didn't know if you have the bi-color red/green kind or not. Only need one hole in the facia for that. Just a thought.
-slim
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 09/23/2011 : 10:49:24 AM
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Hi Steve, after reading Slim's post, it made me think that I had posted above my favorite choice of bi-polar LEDs. If you are wanting to use two LED's (a green and a red) than here is a similar circuit using two LED's. The first post circuit has only one bi-polar LED, this second post of the circuit uses two LED's; take your pick.
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
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Ironhand_13
Section Hand
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Posted - 09/23/2011 : 1:06:25 PM
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That link is exactly what I have set up. Funny, it's from around the time I planned my layout but never saw it.
Anyway, desertdrover's bottom diagram is what I'm after but if I read it correctly it gives one signal for the main in one direction and the opposite signal for the diverging route. If I read that correctly. What I'm after is the same signal on both ends of my tunnel, with no signal at all on the diverging track- the one signal will "split the Y" at the tunnel entrance and 'tell' a train on either track which way the turnout is thrown, MAIN or DIVERGANT.
Also, I think I see how you have the DPDT itself wired but need confirmation. See below-
Also again, if I read that diagram correctly, your two light sets are in series. Not sure how to do that with LEDs at all. I believe my diagram is in parallel?
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Ironhand_13
Section Hand
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Posted - 09/23/2011 : 1:08:49 PM
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Oh yeah, is the resistor drop form 1K to 680 due to the fact there are two sets of lights instead of 1 set? Does it make a difference with LEDs as opposed to incandecant bulbs?
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 09/23/2011 : 4:09:16 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Ironhand_13
Oh yeah, is the resistor drop form 1K to 680 due to the fact there are two sets of lights instead of 1 set? Does it make a difference with LEDs as opposed to incandecant bulbs?
Yes, and Yes, you could even have three LEDs if you wanted; just add a third in series with the first two, and again reduce the resistor value to 470 ohms this time.
You will be using the Bi-Polar type LED's.
BI-POLAR LED’s, they have only two leads; when current flows in one direction, you get red; when it flows in the other direction, you get green. These are the most popular type of bi colors; use depends on your application.
There are also, COMMON CATHODE LED’s, these have three leads. Diodes have two electrodes (the "cathode" and the "anode"), and that current flows from anode to cathode. Three-leaded LED’s that allow you to illuminate neither, either one, or both at one time. As the name implies, the cathode of the red LED and the cathode of the green LED are connected together inside the package. These are the second most-common types used; there use also depends on your application use.
When you see the Bi-Polar diogram below, and also my first post, that is one (1) LED shown.
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
Edited by - desertdrover on 09/23/2011 4:14:56 PM |
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Ironhand_13
Section Hand
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Posted - 09/23/2011 : 6:19:05 PM
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OK I think I got it.
The actual colors may be reversed then what the switch shows (up or down). I haven't tried it yet.
Switch up-
Switch down-
The two LEDs are joined together opposite, right?
How's my wiring on the back of the DPDT? Those jumpers are needed, correct?
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Edited by - Ironhand_13 on 09/23/2011 6:23:35 PM |
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| Posts: 97 |
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 09/23/2011 : 9:55:44 PM
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You are fine, the worse that will happen is the LED won't light for you. If that happens just turn the LED and reverse the legs (+ and -) and it will light.
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
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Ironhand_13
Section Hand
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Posted - 09/24/2011 : 12:02:21 AM
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Yup, roger that!
Thanks for the time and patience you put in to educate me!
How am I gonna get any sleep tonight knowing the solution is RIGHT THERE...?
Thanks again!
-S
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 09/24/2011 : 09:02:33 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Ironhand_13
Yup, roger that!
Thanks for the time and patience you put in to educate me!
How am I gonna get any sleep tonight knowing the solution is RIGHT THERE...?
Thanks again!
-S
 
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 11274 |
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wirten
Section Hand
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Posted - 09/27/2011 : 10:02:04 AM
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Hi, I’m having trouble wiring a crossing combined with LEDs for the Control panel.
Is there anybody who can help me, and tell me what is wrong with this circuit.
Regards
Anders Wirten
Download Attachment:  Crossing_LED_b.jpg
67.42 KB
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| Anders |
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Country: Sweden
| Posts: 70 |
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slimjerkins
Fireman
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Posted - 09/27/2011 : 10:52:04 AM
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Anders
Check out Ironhand's drawing showing the DPDT switches in the up and down positions. Notice that you are missing a jumper wire on the switch in your drawing.
-slim
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wirten
Section Hand
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Posted - 09/27/2011 : 11:57:12 AM
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Slim
I see what you mean.
But unfortunately, that is just me showing a lack of skill when it comes to drawing electrical diagrams.
This is of coarse how I’ve wired it.
Anders
Download Attachment: Crossing_LED.jpg
68.2 KB
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| Anders |
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Country: Sweden
| Posts: 70 |
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wirten
Section Hand
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Posted - 09/27/2011 : 12:00:30 PM
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By the way, since I’m fairly new to the Forums.
How do you post a picture that gets visual?
My way of doing it seems to generate a link.
Should I use some other format than .jpg?
Anders
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Country: Sweden
| Posts: 70 |
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emccamey
Crew Chief
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Posted - 09/27/2011 : 12:25:20 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by wirten
. . . How do you post a picture that gets visual? My way of doing it seems to generate a link. Should I use some other format than .jpg?
Anders
Anders, while in the "posting form" dialog, create a blank line:
(Then click on the "insert image" button)
(this gives you two "img" 'tags')
Next go to bottom and click on "insert file". file - NOW copy the link data - and then paste that data BETWEEN the two "img" tags in the posting form dialog text.
(The img has been uploaded to the forum and your message dialog has been linked with the markers.)
It's a bit 'cumbersome' - but the display makes it work better).
P.S. Close out the file uploaded dialog box after doing the copy and paste).
-ed-
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Edited by - emccamey on 09/27/2011 12:30:01 PM |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 908 |
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