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 New 18'-0" boxcar Build
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Author Previous Topic: 1/48, 1/43, 1/50 - 25, 28, 32, 40 mm, figure ref. Topic Next Topic: Coast Line RR vol 7
Page: of 38

Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 09/21/2011 :  7:56:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mabloodhound

There's a couple of companies that sell those painting jigs, Minutman being one of them.
http://www.minutemanscalemodels.com/category_s/54.htm
At $9.25 not a bad price. No connection, just a customer.




Hi Dave...

Thanks for the heads-up.

I went to their site and took a look. They only have two sizes for HO, 33" & 36" wheels (not counting the Blackstone HOn3 version) which converts to 18" and 20" respectively. American Model Builders has a similar design, again, only for HO. For our needs, we need 22", 24" and 26" for O scale. There is another company that has a jig that bolts together. Overkill. My design, which I'm sure is not original, has only two parts held together by those small black rubber hair bands that you can get at any big box for cheap. But, I'm not against looking at any product that has the sizes we need.

Thanks, Richard...



Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

Martin Welberg
Fireman



Posted - 09/21/2011 :  8:05:15 PM  Show Profile  Visit Martin Welberg's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Did make a few myself today, just drilled holes the size of wheels into strips of 2mm plywood. Works great


Country: Netherlands | Posts: 6736 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 09/21/2011 :  8:34:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Martin,

What size did you drill?


Tom M.

Country: | Posts: 9572 Go to Top of Page

Martin Welberg
Fireman



Posted - 09/21/2011 :  8:43:44 PM  Show Profile  Visit Martin Welberg's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Tommatthews

Martin,

What size did you drill?



Not that familiar with US drill sizes but I used a 10.5 mm drill. Fits perfect around the BVM T2 truck wheels...



Country: Netherlands | Posts: 6736 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 09/21/2011 :  8:45:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Martin,

T-2 was what I am interested in.

Close to 13/32"

Thanks ....


Tom M.

Edited by - Tommatthews on 09/21/2011 8:48:42 PM

Country: | Posts: 9572 Go to Top of Page

Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 09/21/2011 :  9:41:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I E-mailed Minuteman and received this reply:

"Richard

We make them for On30 Bachmann trucks. I just came out with them right before the narrow gauge convention last month and have not had a chance to put them on the web site.

I can also make them for the sizes you listed. [Richard's note: I talked about 22", 24" and 26" wheels] The cost would be the same as the ones I sell on the website. $9.25 each if you are interested let me know. I just them out of .06 acrylic and they come fully assembles."


Thank You
Shawn Cavaretta

MinuteMan Scale Models
www.MinuteManScaleModels.com
978-302-4524

So, there you have it. If anyone is interested contact Shawn at the address listed above.

I have found, for the most part, that the model railroad community is full of people like Mr. Cavaretta who do not mind taking the time to respond to our needs and seem to do it quickly too!

I grabbed this off of his site, I'm sure he won't mind...



Richard... Saving the world by building one boxcar at a time!



Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

shayman
Section Hand



Posted - 09/21/2011 :  10:22:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Richard,
An old painting friend of mine had a real "cheap" way of making a painting jig. He just used two wooden rulers, drilled the appropriate size holes, tapered them to allow for the wheel tred. They were held togethter with wing nuts. Just losen the nuts, insert desired wheel, tighten the nuts, and paint to your hearts content. He also did his trucks about the same way you do. And, he got paid to do all this.
Mike Reuter



Country: USA | Posts: 92 Go to Top of Page

Geezer
Engineer



Posted - 09/22/2011 :  11:25:28 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have begun.....
Thanks for the info on the jigs Richard.



Country: USA | Posts: 12973 Go to Top of Page

andykins
Fireman

Posted - 09/22/2011 :  12:48:06 PM  Show Profile  Visit andykins's Homepage  Reply with Quote
jigs look great, but i think id follow martins way, while not a great wood worker im sure i could muster something up, but without a doubt these jigs should have a place in everyones paintng box


Country: United Kingdom | Posts: 4279 Go to Top of Page

Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 09/23/2011 :  1:21:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Geezer, been busy but not unproductive, will have good stuff soon, new information on trucks and detailed information on doors.

To all... There have been a number of options presented regarding painting jigs, both simple and complex. I made my first home made jigs by drilling holes in some .060" styrene and used them for years. So, whatever y'all can put together should work fine. Been talking with Jerry Kitts of FMW and he says he doesn't use a jig at all. He just cleans the tread with the appropriate solvent, and in my opinion, his results are outstanding.

Richard...



Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 09/26/2011 :  11:08:04 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good morning y'all, hope your team won this weekend!

My Kappler order came in allowing me to resume construction on the boxcars...

But, in the meantime, I've been conversing with Jerry Kitts of Foothill Model Works. Jerry is one of those manufacturers that is so generous in helping any of us when we have questions, and he knows way more about this stuff than anyone I know. He noted that I had an error in my drawings. And... he was kind enough to ask if he could make suggestions. A true gentleman without ego, making sure he doesn't offend others.

He said, and I quote:

"Looking at the drawing of the bottom of the car. The brake lever were the hand brake rod, and the rods to each truck is called a live lever. I am not sure why they call it a live lever. I think its because it does not have a pivot. It just lays on the two rods that are attached to the center sills. It does not need a pivot, if the line has two or more levers then it has pivots. That is what I wanted to pass along to you.

You have a block between the center sills and a pivot for the brake rods. I have never seen this before. I think this is a mistake. I have books with drawings and copies of drawing all have a live lever or maybe its just called a brake lever. All my references span our whole country so its not just a Western thing. The two terms are different for the same lever. It may depend on what railroad you work for what the lever is called. I can not find the lever the way you drew it. I searched last night and for a bit over four hours this evening.

When there is an air brake then there is a second lever that has a pivot back close the needle beam on the A end of the car. I think you may have thought this pivoting lever was needed for a manual braked car.

One thing the live lever allows which is not prototype, but works well for modelers. The clevis we use has little tabs in the clevis opening, they snap into the lever. Thus they really can pivot. So when the wheels come around on a sharp turn and wheels bump into the brake rods the lever just moves over (no pivot) of course moving the rods as it goes and helps get the wheel clear of the rods.

I only refer to what I think is a mistake to help you get your drawing right. You put so much work into it, I thought it best to mention it".

Jerry Kitts

So... there you have it... out of the mouth of a pro. I have issued addendum 6.0 which covers this revision. (addendum 5.0 is still in the works)

A jpeg of the addendum is attached below, participating members will receive the pdf's as usual. Keep in mind that If you haven't already signed up for the drawings and wish to receive them, an E-mail to rlgardner@cox.net will get you on the list.



Keep in mind, this is a just a suggestion of how I intend for the brake rigging for my boxcar build to work. If you have a preferred brake system, by all means, use that.

So, now that the lumber truck has arrived, I have some boxcars to build...

Richard...



Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

NVNGRR
Engine Wiper

Premium Member


Posted - 09/26/2011 :  12:40:10 PM  Show Profile  Visit NVNGRR's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Jerry has gone out of his way for me also. I have a habit of asking him for items that are out of production.

Kevin Miller
Winlock, WA

Country: USA | Posts: 365 Go to Top of Page

n6nvr
Engine Wiper



Posted - 09/26/2011 :  10:18:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
http://www.earlyrail.org/NNGC/large-103.html shows one of the levers on one of the cars on tour at the NNGC. Now it makes sense to me. Having it floating like that allows the system to transfer the tension (pulling) from the cylinder mounted on the car frame to be transferred to the brakes on the trucks while it is moving/turning.


Don't push me bureaucrat, I've got a bit of hangover

Country: | Posts: 325 Go to Top of Page

Geezer
Engineer



Posted - 10/06/2011 :  10:49:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for updates Richard - I purchased all three wheel
weathering units (clear plastic ones above) That should
handle just about everything I do.....I have started
the outside frame Boxcar.....(again) lol!



Country: USA | Posts: 12973 Go to Top of Page

Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 10/06/2011 :  5:01:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Geezer

Thanks for updates Richard - I purchased all three wheel
weathering units (clear plastic ones above) That should
handle just about everything I do.....I have started
the outside frame Boxcar.....(again) lol!



Hi Bill et al...

Haven't posted in a couple of days due to health reasons. While I was "taking a break" the last of the trucks I wanted to evaluate came in. Dallas of BVM sent his T-1 trucks. I'll have a report prepared soon. Not as many choices as i'd originally hoped for but should be informative.

Also, I now have a plan of attack on the outside frame boxcar sides. Will let you in on that soon too...

Later,,, Richard





Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page
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