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 New 18'-0" boxcar Build
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Author Previous Topic: 1/48, 1/43, 1/50 - 25, 28, 32, 40 mm, figure ref. Topic Next Topic: Coast Line RR vol 7
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wesleybeks
Fireman



Posted - 11/24/2014 :  2:26:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Keep up the good work Thayer.

I love reading your updates.



Country: South Africa | Posts: 2830 Go to Top of Page

thayer
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/24/2014 :  2:37:59 PM  Show Profile  Visit thayer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I am still using the stock blades that I got with the Byrnes saw, both a 24 and 36 tooth 4-inch carbide blades, as well as the 3-inch 80-tooth .030 kerf HSS slitting saw.

http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/tablesaw1.html

The slitting saw has no blade set, so is about the worst possible case in terms of binding. What you might try is to set the fence a thou or two further from the back of the blade to create a little relief. Also, if you can rig up some sort of a splitter behind the blade that could help as well.

Thayer



Country: | Posts: 285 Go to Top of Page

Reg Barron
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/24/2014 :  5:29:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jim,

There are several videos on you tube, describing how people rip thin strips on full size table saws. I think most can be adapted to our modeler size machines. For example Izzy Swan uses a sacrificial push stick to control the board, the saw blade actually cuts into the stick. Geoff Carson made a home made curved splitter to push the strip away from the back of the blade. Others use home made jigs to move the fence, so the the thin strips are cut from the far side of the board, rather than the strip being between the fence and the blade. A search on you tube "cutting thin strips on a table saw" will suggest many interesting videos. Hope this helps.

Regards,

Reg Barron




Country: USA | Posts: 218 Go to Top of Page

jcoop
Fireman



Posted - 11/24/2014 :  5:56:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I cut strips as thin as I want on my 70 year old Delta Unisaw that is a 10" cabinet saw. I made a sled with an adjustable fence that will allow any width of strip. I cut ties as well as strip wood with no problem. I purchased a 1" x 8" x 8' Basswood board and have been cutting on it for years, cost of the board was about $12.00, figure I have several more years of cutting on that board. Bet there is tens of thousands of dollars worth of MT. Albert strip wood in it.

And I don't have to wait for orders to show up.



Sitting along side the orignal Central Pacific Rail Road.

Home of The Great On30 Barn Meet, that will be held May 16th 2015

Country: USA | Posts: 1407 Go to Top of Page

thayer
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/24/2014 :  9:30:06 PM  Show Profile  Visit thayer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Jcoop, Could you share a photo of your sled and fence combo? It sounds great. I am just using the traditional fence and push sticks.

Thayer



Country: | Posts: 285 Go to Top of Page

Jim Ellis
Section Hand

Posted - 11/25/2014 :  12:10:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey John (Jcoop),

If you can get set up to rip some accurate O-scale 1X8s and 2X8s, I'd like to come over to watch (we live just 10 minutes apart). I'll gladly pay you for them!

Jim



Country: | Posts: 56 Go to Top of Page

jcoop
Fireman



Posted - 11/25/2014 :  12:14:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jim / Thayer,

Jim, How long would you need them? May do it and take some pics along the way. A little how to so to speak.



Sitting along side the orignal Central Pacific Rail Road.

Home of The Great On30 Barn Meet, that will be held May 16th 2015

Country: USA | Posts: 1407 Go to Top of Page

Jim Ellis
Section Hand

Posted - 11/25/2014 :  1:21:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
John,

The length could be anywhere between 8 to 12 inches long.

Jim



Country: | Posts: 56 Go to Top of Page

Jim Ellis
Section Hand

Posted - 11/25/2014 :  1:35:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Reg,

Thanks for the YouTube "heads-up". I watched about a dozen of the clips. I think my best chance would be to cut the material on the side opposite the fence, using a stop jig and a wedge splitter. Even then, I'm not sure I can get "Mt. Albert accuracy" of a few thousands of an inch, board to board.

Jim



Country: | Posts: 56 Go to Top of Page

thayer
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/25/2014 :  5:41:40 PM  Show Profile  Visit thayer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The Byrnes will do that easily. I have found my stock is usually with .002.


Country: | Posts: 285 Go to Top of Page

thayer
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/07/2014 :  03:22:49 AM  Show Profile  Visit thayer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Well, I got a bit distracted by Thanksgiving, but am back at home now and making a little more progress. I now have four cars framed up and most of the roofing cut waiting for assembly.

I am planning to first use these cars on a mini layout as I get back into the hobby with my son and since I haven't figured out where to buy 12-inch radius track and suitable switches I decided to rip the rails out of some Atlas flex track and roll my own. I'm lucky to have the A2Z CNC mill and used that and some aluminum plate to create some fixtures inspired by the Fast Tracks system.


This is the first image of the curve template. I pressed some rail into the slots while still on the mill and tried a set of the side dump ore cars. That was encouraging enough to push on. Yes, I am using 1/2 thick stock as that is what I had on hand.


Here is the first turnout template in progress, milling the pocket for a guard rail.


Milling the pocket for the circuit board ties. The slots running off the upper edge of the stock on the left side are for cutting and bending the guard rails. Yes, I need some more relief around the points.


The fixtures for a 60-degree 12-inch radius curve segment and my first turnouts resting on the mill. I plan to mill the backs of these fixtures for straight track and the RH turnout respectively. No way I could leave them sitting like this before going to bed.


My first test parts waiting for soldering to the ties. Actually the stock rails end just out of frame as they are not yet notched nor the points tapered. It looks like the rail is flexible enough that I can go with continuous points/closure rails instead of hinging them but will know for sure once the first one is soldered up. I also realized at this point that stub switches would be very easy to build with this fixture.

A quick test at this point with a known good wheel set shows beautiful action. Hopefully that will last.



Edited by - thayer on 12/07/2014 03:24:41 AM

Country: | Posts: 285 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 12/07/2014 :  10:40:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thayer,

The templates look great. Your turnouts should work fine.


Tom M.

Country: | Posts: 9572 Go to Top of Page

thayer
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/07/2014 :  8:36:19 PM  Show Profile  Visit thayer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks Tom. I am confident that this round will work a lot better than the turnout I made with a file and dremel tool and hand spiked to a piece of pine when I was 13.


Country: | Posts: 285 Go to Top of Page

thayer
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/09/2014 :  02:55:10 AM  Show Profile  Visit thayer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
A little more progress on the box cars tonight, roofing the first car. Not much to talk about, other than there are lots of little sticks. I'm only making them for fun though, and so far it still is.


First roof with the next three cars waiting in line.


a bit closer view.


And a quick peek of the inside.


FWIW, the roofing is glued only to the rafters. I can easily remove it, figuring that is the preferred mode until I commit them to service. Next up will be the roof walk.

I just realized how ugly that one door post is. Yikes! Fortunately I can knock it back a bit with a swipe or two of Scotch-Brite.

Thayer



Edited by - thayer on 12/09/2014 02:57:09 AM

Country: | Posts: 285 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 12/09/2014 :  10:25:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice clean work. The coloring is nice.

Tom M.

Country: | Posts: 9572 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 38 Previous Topic: 1/48, 1/43, 1/50 - 25, 28, 32, 40 mm, figure ref. Topic Next Topic: Coast Line RR vol 7  
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