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 New 18'-0" boxcar Build
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Rick
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 11/06/2011 :  4:31:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jerry, welcome to the forums.

Two things.
Picture can use only letters and numbers.
Rename the picture without the underscore and it should work fine.
Secondly, your end image tag needed a /.




Country: USA | Posts: 23929 Go to Top of Page

mabloodhound
Fireman



Posted - 11/06/2011 :  5:16:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote


Here it is Jerry. I just took your image link above and inserted it between some img tags



Edited by - mabloodhound on 11/06/2011 5:20:16 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 6703 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/06/2011 :  6:08:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
For those building in wood what glue are you using.

For my first two cars I am using "Elmer's Pro Bond Max" wood glue waterproof and stainable, contractor's grade.


Tom M.

Country: | Posts: 9572 Go to Top of Page

Jerry Kitts
New Hire



Posted - 11/06/2011 :  6:16:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Heady with a small success, I will try another post.





I got a bit closer to the car frame to show the Grandt Line parts and SJC coupler better. If its of help I can get much closer to the parts if anyone wants to see the Grandt Line parts in better detail.

I have just a little different design than Richard. I am using the Railway Car Construction by William Voss 1882 as my guide, its a reproduction offered by the Orange Empire Reprint series. The big difference is the use of styrene and a few more details from book by Voss. Also my car is a 20 footer compared to the 18 footer by Richard.

Richard's work has inspired me to not only join the group and do my own build along car, I have come up with drawings for four versions of the car. The basic outside framed box car along with a ventilated box car, and two versions of stock cars off the same basic design all will be 7' x 20'. In line with trying to be honest with the group we will release all four cars as kits sometime next year. (I hope I am not violating part of the code of conduct here, its not really a new kit announcement, just letting you know what I am up to) Of course when the kit or kits are ready we will include a message that the kits were inspired by Richard and any changes by the group will also be mentioned. Its not so much as giving credit were its due, we can blame Richard for the cars. [smiling]

In the mean time I am here to help were I can and lead were I can and do my best not to step on Richard's toes. It is also my hobby and I am here to learn and build like the rest of you.

Jerry




Jerry
Diamond Springs and Fiddletown Ry.

Country: USA | Posts: 37 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/06/2011 :  6:55:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I started to paint boxcar1 ....




The colors appear darker in real life. I must compare it to a Bachmann boxcar for color.



The roof is not glued on. I am waiting for detailed parts to arrive.



Boxcar2 ...



Boxcar2 is fitting together much nicer with the new measurements.


Tom M.

Country: | Posts: 9572 Go to Top of Page

Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 11/06/2011 :  7:25:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Tom...

Thanks for the info on the type of glue you use. I was most interested in the stainable part of the formula so I looked at the glue I use and it says it's stainable too. I use a consumer's version of Elmer's Carpenter's WoodGlue. The only difference I can see is that my glue is not necessarily water proof like yours. I'll keep a lookout for the "carpenter's grade".

If I'm glueing wood to plastic (or more likely the other way around) I use Aleene's tacky glue or Pacer's canopy glue.

Jerry...

You know I can't get enough pictures. I assume you were going to tell us later, but you know how patient I am. What size of vertical frame members are going to sit on the foot castings? I will order the #95 parts but in the meantime how wide (or deep) are the feet? We are using 1/16" sq. posts on the wooden cars, but I sense you are using something around .100" sq. styrene for yours. Please keep the progress photos coming, I'm as interested in your "procedure" as much as "what" you're doing.

I also did a Google on your above mentioned book. I think Google offers this book on line at:

Tiny URL:

<http://preview.tinyurl.com/7c4u542>

Y'all should check it out, at the very least, you'll be able to see if you want to buy it.

Amazon has two used for $70 and $99 respectively. It looks good to me, have to wait 'till I can afford it.

Richard...











Edited by - Richard Gardner on 11/07/2011 09:23:40 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 11/06/2011 :  7:29:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It seems as my last post's text did not wrap properly, Jerry's post did the same thing. Anyone know why?

Richard



Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

Bill Uffelman
Fireman

Posted - 11/06/2011 :  8:14:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Seeing the photos of the San Juan couplers on these small cars brings to mind the emails I sent earlier today on On3, On2 and Finescale On30 Yahoo group lists. If you would like to see a 3/4 size O scale (ala SPNG, EBT and lsots of logging lines) write Sergent too!

Bill Uffelman

To: sales@sergentengineering.com

I have a vested interest in the S couplers for 3/4 size On3/30 use -- dual marketing would help with volume. They would be a great compliment to San Juan's full size O scale couplers.

Bill Uffelman
Las Vegas NV

--- On Sun, 11/6/11, John Degnan <Scaler164@comcast.net> wrote:

Ok folks, if you're interested in the Sergent Engineering "scale" couplers, here is my latest e-mail from them :

From: Frank Sergent
To: scaler164@comcast.net

... Please let me know what the current situation in
the S scale world is. I went to the S Helper site and it looks like just
about everything is currently out of production (words about moving molds,
etc.) Are there any other S scale manufacturers left? My 3D printer problems
have prevented me from making much progress on the latest S scale design and
I was considering just biting the bullet at going to a diecast S scale
coupler much like the HO scale couplers. This requires a lot more capital,
so I need to be sure the pay back is there (even if it will take a while).
With the Showcase Line apparently on life support I'm a little scared of the
situation. Don't misunderstand; I'm not looking for promises from 50
different modelers to buy X pairs of couplers. I'm looking for confidence
that this would be winner over the long haul (5 to 10 years). If The
Showcase Line is on the way out, I don't see how S scale can survive, and I
don't see how I could ever recoup my cost. Please let me know.

As you can see, Frank needs a little reassurance that all is not dead in the S scale world! I can only do so much on my own, so I'm asking for everyone to chip in and help me bring Frank up to date on what IS going on and how many other active manufacturers are still out there.

If Frank backs out on doing the new S coupler, that will also mean the death of my new, scale-sized draft gear boxes... and maybe a few of the other under-the-radar projects I'm working on that most of you have no knowledge of.

The ball is in our court. Anyone wanna take a swing at it?

John Degnan
Scaler164@comcast.net





Country: USA | Posts: 1105 Go to Top of Page

Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 11/07/2011 :  09:26:05 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Rick

quote:
Originally posted by Richard Gardner

It seems as my last post's text did not wrap properly, Jerry's post did the same thing. Anyone know why?

Richard



It's because that Google link you posted is longer than the standard page width.



Thanks Rick...

I fixed it!

Richard






Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/07/2011 :  1:50:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Boxcar 1 was completed this morning to the point of being able to make a maiden run. I am waiting for the detail parts to arrive.

The couplers lined up nicely.



She sure is short compared to the Bachmann cars.



She ran through three turnouts forwards and backward without a hitch.



Now to bring Boxcar 2 to this point of construction.


Tom M.

Country: | Posts: 9572 Go to Top of Page

Jerry Kitts
New Hire



Posted - 11/07/2011 :  1:59:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Tom and Richard,

I am holding both of you up with the lack of detail parts, the parts were mailed late they should be in the post office this morning. I will brave the cold and chip some ice off my car and check to see if the post office was kind to us or not.

Richard,

I will work on the getting some measurements of the Grandt part #95 to the group and the size of framing I am using.

Jerry


Jerry
Diamond Springs and Fiddletown Ry.

Country: USA | Posts: 37 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/07/2011 :  2:15:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jerry,

Not to worry about the parts. I only mentioned it for those who might think I was not going to detail the boxcar.

I am working on #2 and have 2 more on the drawing board. I will have 4 o.f. box cars. I may then move onto the regular box car and / or a flat car or a MOW of some sort. All will use the same frame.


Tom M.

Country: | Posts: 9572 Go to Top of Page

Jerry Kitts
New Hire



Posted - 11/07/2011 :  2:43:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Tom,

Using the same frame for different cars was done by real railways. We do the same thing, which makes kit making a lot easier. The Central Pacific was one of the railroads that followed this practice, they stock piled flat cars at Sparks, NV so when a order came in they could send out flats quickly or put a box car or gondola on the flat and get it out to the customer pretty fast too. They also severed their own needs too. The cars of the day were pretty small, so the flats might go out as a narrow gauge car also.






The box cars are 20' cars, I think the flats are too, the stock car my best guess is 24'. The cars are standard gauge. The photo was taken in Oregon.





Some more of the 20 foot cars the two photos are from 1867.

Here on the Left Coast in Northern California the 20' car was very common.

Jerry


Jerry
Diamond Springs and Fiddletown Ry.

Country: USA | Posts: 37 Go to Top of Page

morganhillmodels
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/07/2011 :  7:44:11 PM  Show Profile  Visit morganhillmodels's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Guys
I thought I would jump in too as I have been following along. I have been producing similar car kits under the Morgan Hill Models name for a while now. In fact it was Richard's Gazette article that I built my first small boxcar from. I really like the cars he is designing and how you guys have jumped in and started scratch building your own.
If anyone is interested; I have some laser cut sides and ends from a previous project that were unusable. The would make a good foundation for an inside or outside framed car. They were originally designed for a stockcar. You would just need to build the flat and add the siding and roof and hardware.


The dimensions are:
sides19'8" long x 6'6" tall
ends are 6' 3" wide (set inside the sides car width of 6' 10")
The sheet stock is about 3" thick and they come withe roof rafters to.
I have nine sets and I will give them out to anyone who is interested. just P.M. your address.
Keep on buildin'!





Country: USA | Posts: 238 Go to Top of Page

Jerry Kitts
New Hire



Posted - 11/08/2011 :  01:29:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good Evening All,

I tried to shoot some close up photos of the Grandt Line parts on sprue #95. Black parts are hard to get good detail.






The car framing I am using .080" x .080" Evergreen styrene. The 1882 car builders book calls for 3" x 4" framing. Evergreen does not make that shape, so 4" x 4" is OK. The 4" is the face of the framing and 3" would be the depth of the framing. I did not look to see if other scales have what works out to be a 3" x 4". It did not seem that important to me. I don't know if the timber size is a rough cut - a full 3 x 4 or is it finished lumber and a reduced size. I suspect for the time period it is rough cut lumber.

The Grandt Line part #95 would work well for the wood cars too. It makes a nice bit of detail.

As Richard says its the "texture" of the outside braced car that makes the model, and details are the texture that makes this project.

Jerry


Jerry
Diamond Springs and Fiddletown Ry.

Country: USA | Posts: 37 Go to Top of Page
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