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 New 18'-0" boxcar Build
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Author Previous Topic: 1/48, 1/43, 1/50 - 25, 28, 32, 40 mm, figure ref. Topic Next Topic: Coast Line RR vol 7
Page: of 38

Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 11/03/2011 :  5:45:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Tommatthews

Richard: The door for the O.F. box car; are the outside measurements the same as the opening on the box car?



Hi Tom...

The door OPENING for both cars is the width between the two vertical frame members on either side. The door WIDTH is from the right of the left frame member to the center of the right frame member. This is the concept, so if you have altered your car structure you'll be in good shape.

The drawings (addendum 5) show the bottom door frame to be 1.156" wide or 4'-7 1/2" scale.

I think that should cover your question.

Just a tidbit of information. I could never remember whether the bottom of a window sash was the width of the window or between the side sashes. I'd go out in the neighborhood and look at a half a dozen examples or so, make my decision and apply it to whatever I was working on and then promptly forget it, only to repeat the scenario the next time. This information applies to windows, door construction and, yes, our boxcar doors.

I finally figured out the concept and have had no problems since. The window sash has the side members go the full height because they need to slide on rails and ropes and you don't want to have joinery exposed to those forces. A door has the side frames full height because that is where you want the hinges and lock sets to go. All horizontal members go between them. For our boxcar doors, the top and bottom frame members go full width for the same reasons as the window sash. The door slides horizontally so you don't want joinery subjected to those loads.

FWIW Richard








Edited by - Richard Gardner on 11/03/2011 5:48:39 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/03/2011 :  6:58:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
On the left hand sash, is there a board there to stop the door from moving further to the left?

On a Bachmann box car there is.


Tom M.

Edited by - Tommatthews on 11/03/2011 7:01:33 PM

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Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/03/2011 :  7:17:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is the box car and door ...



Tom M.

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Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 11/03/2011 :  7:19:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Tommatthews

On the left hand sash, is there a board there to stop the door from moving further to the left?

On a Bachmann box car there is.



Hi Tom...

In Addendum 5 there is a note calling out for a 1/16" sq. piece just to the left of the door. It seems as I left out the red marker out, but it's there. It centers on the top of that left frame member on both cars. On the o.f. frame car it sits directly on the frame member, on the reg. box it sits on top of the sheathing, still in the same location. There is a reasonable amount of information on this addendum so I'm including it again here...

Richard...




Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 11/03/2011 :  7:26:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Tom

I was in the middle of answering your last question when you posted the photos of the door. Looks really good. The door stop will fit right over that left frame member and provide a nice stop and a level surface for latches.

Richard



Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/03/2011 :  7:29:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Richard
Thank you. Found the note for the door stop.


Tom M.

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spyder62
Crew Chief



Posted - 11/03/2011 :  11:59:21 PM  Show Profile  Visit spyder62's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looking good Tom, looks like all the parts are working for you. If you need more let me know
rich


In my many years I have come to a conclusion that one useless man is a shame,
two is a law firm and three or more is a congress.
--John Adams

Country: USA | Posts: 669 Go to Top of Page

Ron Knepp
New Hire

Posted - 11/04/2011 :  07:29:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote


Thanks for the compliments. Since this is 3/4 inch scale I am able to use a 23 gauge air nailer. With the thousands of kits,parts and vehicles available it is a great outdoor scale.

Ron Knepp



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Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/04/2011 :  3:25:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Richard:

Today I have managed to confuse myself.

For the side panel of the o.f. box the plan shows for part (7) 1.5" x 1.5". This would indicate that part (3) and part (2) are edged up to the sides of part (7). Correct?

On my first model I made part (7) 1 11/16" W and 1.5" H. I then glued part (3) and part (2) on top of the scribed sheet, part (7). Correct?



These side panels are cut 1 11/16 x 1.5". I have not glue part (3) and part (2) on top.



I hope I have clearly explained my problem so you might be able to help me.


Tom M.

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Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/04/2011 :  3:30:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Richard:

Your exploded view would indicate 1 11/16 x 1.5".


Tom M.

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Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 11/04/2011 :  5:15:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Tom...

When I used to do working drawings (blueprints to the layman) we used to have a standard clause or disclaimer to the effect that "the contractor is responsible for determining the accuracy of these drawings and field conditions" or something like that.

Welcome to the world of contracting. You have uncovered an error in my drawings and instructions. I didn't see the discrepancy because I knew how the side panels would fit.

I have revised Addendum-1 again. It is now Addendum-1.3 see below. The PDF will go out as soon as I finish this, which should take some time.



This revision addresses errors to the outside frame boxcar drawings. As Tom pointed out, the error involves the side panels on either side of the door. Those panels should be 1 1/2" tall and fit to the inside edge of part 3 and cover all of the part 2 at the door opening. Look closely at the corner drawing, it has not been revised but has a red cloud to draw attention to it. Once again, that is the concept. If you have adjusted your construction (you 3/4" scalers out there) you should be good to go. The drawings now indicate that panel to be 1 1/2" high by 1.595" wide.



This photo shows just about where I was before my life was distracted. As you can see, that left frame member will be left hanging by itself tenuously attached to the top horizontal frame member (4). That frame member is attached only to the tops of the side verticals (3)s and (2)s. This is tricky at best using the assembly procedure I am pursuing. The end frames fare a little better. The panels go to the outsides of the narrow verticals (1) trapping all the end frame members. The gable piece is part of the roof assembly so is ignored. Once the end frame has been assembled, I'm thinking about glueing the frames (3) to either side of it. Go ahead and assemble the side panels as I have shown. If the top frame (4) and the end frames (3) do not come up with everything when you pull it off the template all is not lost. When you start to assemble a box use the inside corner posts as shown in the corner drawing to help align and support the structure. I'm indicating 1/16" sq. for those parts, but anything small and square will do. I doubt if they can be seen once all is done.

I do hope this answers your questions. I promise to attack this issue soon and will report if any of the above worked.

Richard









Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

Jerry Kitts
New Hire



Posted - 11/06/2011 :  3:29:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Richard and Group:

I have been following along for sometime now, like Richard life has gotten in the way which is why am slow in getting started here.

I should say right up front that I own Foothill Model Works just so everyone knows.

I am using our flat car kit as the basis of my start. Its Richard's fault as he picked a 7' x 20' car size that we make kits for. My favorite medium is styrene which is why I am using the flat car frame and underbody.

Here is how far I have gotten, assuming I get things right with my first post to the group. Its a theory that my picture is going to appear with this message.

I am using a Grandt Line parts for the base to the outside bracing. The deck boards are being glued in place one at a time.

Also in following along with Richard I am trying a larger coupler than the Kadee HO coupler. I am trying the San Juan Car Company scale coupler and so far it has worked rather well. My only heart burn so far is I have to leave off some of the draft timber detail we provide.

Jerry

Download Attachment: ofbox1a.jpg
87.98 KB


Jerry
Diamond Springs and Fiddletown Ry.

Country: USA | Posts: 37 Go to Top of Page

Tommatthews
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/06/2011 :  3:48:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jerry,

Interesting .... styrene. I'll be watching your build.


Tom M.

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Richard Gardner
Section Hand



Posted - 11/06/2011 :  3:57:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
[quote]Originally posted by Jerry Kitts

Richard and Group:

I have been following along for sometime now, like Richard life has gotten in the way which is why am slow in getting started here.

I should say right up front that I own Foothill Model Works just so everyone knows.

I am using our flat car kit as the basis of my start. Its Richard's fault as he picked a 7' x 20' car size that we make kits for. My favorite medium is styrene which is why I am using the flat car frame and underbody.

Here is how far I have gotten, assuming I get things right with my first post to the group. Its a theory that my picture is going to appear with this message.

I am using a Grandt Line parts for the base to the outside bracing. The deck boards are being glued in place one at a time.

Also in following along with Richard I am trying a larger coupler than the Kadee HO coupler. I am trying the San Juan Car Company scale coupler and so far it has worked rather well. My only heart burn so far is I have to leave off some of the draft timber detail we provide.

Jerry

Welcome aboard Jerry...

I think your perspective will provide yet another approach to scratch building these cars. I know of at least one other member who intends to build his version in styrene.

I have two requests... could you provide the Grandt part number for those o. f. brackets? They might also be used for the wooden cars.

The other is, please make your images a little larger for us "old poops". Go here:

<http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15110>

to see how to up-load photos along with size restrictions.

The only issue I can see with you owning a kit business is "why can't I own one" :-)

We all can, and have already benefitted from your experience.

Thanks again...

Richard







Country: USA | Posts: 81 Go to Top of Page

Jerry Kitts
New Hire



Posted - 11/06/2011 :  4:28:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jerry here trying to get it right, lets see if an old poop can get a photo into the text.



The Grandt Line part is #95 N.G. stock car post & feet brace.

In theory I have the picture larger

Jerry


Jerry
Diamond Springs and Fiddletown Ry.

Edited by - Jerry Kitts on 11/06/2011 5:26:43 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 37 Go to Top of Page
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