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 Yehuda's Heating Co. build:
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Author Previous Topic: My first kit in a long time. Topic Next Topic: Master Creations kits - McCabe Lumber Co.?I
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postalkarl
Fireman



Posted - 09/01/2011 :  4:55:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
HI All:

Here are photos of the 1st coat of paint. It is Ace hardware Premium Primer Red Oxide Primer. I think it came out well.





Karl S.
Lansdale, Pa.



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postalkarl
Fireman



Posted - 09/01/2011 :  5:30:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi All:

Here is the second coat of paint. It's Floquil reefer orange spray (Discontinued). It is meant to look like salmon bricks of the 30's.



Karls S.



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jsiekirk
Engine Wiper



Posted - 09/01/2011 :  6:43:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What a great idea - looking forward to following along with your build.


Edited by - jsiekirk on 09/02/2011 6:08:15 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 159 Go to Top of Page

postalkarl
Fireman



Posted - 09/02/2011 :  09:44:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Guys:

As I said above the walls fit pretty well. There was space at all the seems so I decided to fill them. Here's how I did it.

1. place blue painters tape on each side of the seem. Place it as close to the seem as possible.

2. Take fast and final spackle and spread it down the seem with your finger.

3. remove the tape. Seem is filled with no spackle on the bricks.

This took about 10 or 15 minutes to do.

I also wanted to mention that the walls were packed very well. They are wrapped with bubble wrap. Then the kit box is in another box surrounded by peanuts.

Karl



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kruisyk
Crew Chief



Posted - 09/02/2011 :  6:02:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Following along eagerly...my Yehuda is on order. I'll remember the tip about filling the seams.
Dave K.


"Promote what you love instead of bashing what you hate."

Country: USA | Posts: 594 Go to Top of Page

postalkarl
Fireman



Posted - 09/02/2011 :  10:51:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi all:

Here is a progress photo. Gable trim (Depot Olive), Lentils and sills (D&H Gray) And Foundation (Aged Concrete) Are painted. All trim colors are Floquil Polyscale paint. No weathering has been added yet.






Karl S.
Lansdale, Pa.



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kruisyk
Crew Chief



Posted - 09/03/2011 :  07:49:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Enjoying the build, Karl. I've been plodding through my first hydrocal kit, and I'm liking the medium. It's a change of pace from wood and you can't beat the detail that can be carved into the plaster.
Dave K.


"Promote what you love instead of bashing what you hate."

Country: USA | Posts: 594 Go to Top of Page

rsmilley
Engine Wiper



Posted - 09/03/2011 :  08:58:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
hey Karl... thanks for sharing this build...looking good so far.
one question - did you seal the plaster before adding the red oxide ? ...or straight to the red oxide.
I've seen recommendations for either approach in the past.

--steve



Country: USA | Posts: 429 Go to Top of Page

kruisyk
Crew Chief



Posted - 09/03/2011 :  09:42:00 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Steve: Karl will chime-in, but I believe his use of the oxide primer serves the purpose of sealing the castings. Randy Pepprock of Downtown Deco has an outstanding tutorial on his website (http://www.downtowndeco.biz/site/?p=901) for building and painting hydrocal kits, and he has a very strong argument for sealing prior to painting. Don't want to start a war...opinions on this are about as divided as the ol' nailholes debate, but if you read his tutorial he makes a strong case for sealing in the interest of the weathering you'll be doing down the road. Karl?
Dave K.


"Promote what you love instead of bashing what you hate."

Edited by - kruisyk on 09/03/2011 09:43:06 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 594 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 09/03/2011 :  11:21:00 AM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I've often used red oxide as a primer. I buy Red Oxide Primer at Wally world or Targets. Why start with white, then have to add more color on top and hiding delicate details like mortar joints. I also use this for pre-painting models I want to rust up, like mode cars, cranes etc.
Tony Burgess
Tulsa, OK


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 09/03/2011 :  11:37:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
For masonry buildings, I like to prime with the mortar color, and then use sponges to paint the bricks (dry-brushing to just color the bricks but not the mortar lines.)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7835 Go to Top of Page

PufferS
Engine Wiper



Posted - 09/03/2011 :  5:25:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Karl,

Nice Start!! I will be following along with great interest.

Seth P.
Minnesota



Country: USA | Posts: 169 Go to Top of Page

postalkarl
Fireman



Posted - 09/04/2011 :  10:00:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi All:

Thanks for all the fine compliments. they are much appreciated. I guees you could say the red oxide was the primer. I sent the top photo to George and he said the bricks where to white. He said he had the same problem. His fix was to use a wet finger and moist cloth to wipe powders off top of the bricks. This did not work for me. So I drybrushed the bricks with reefer orange then appled a light A&I wash.





Karl S.
Loansdale, pa.



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postalkarl
Fireman



Posted - 09/04/2011 :  10:14:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi All:

Here are a few more shots with star bolts and signs added to front and rear walls.






Karl S.
Lansdale, Pa.



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kruisyk
Crew Chief



Posted - 09/05/2011 :  07:58:56 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Interesting...what did you do for mortar that required the correction? I'm just wrapping-up my first hydrocal kit and tried Robert's Mortar and liked it a lot.
Dave K.


"Promote what you love instead of bashing what you hate."

Country: USA | Posts: 594 Go to Top of Page
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