Railroad Line Forums
Save Password

Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 1 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 61 ]  [ Total: 62 ]  [ Newest Member: SandersReview ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 Mike Chambers' Craftsman's Corner
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: power pole transformers Topic Next Topic: Corrugated roofing question  

Engine Wiper

Posted - 06/01/2011 :  10:06:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have several kits that are either Hydrocal/plaster such as Downtown Deco or have Hydrocal/plaster components such as SRMW. I was reluctant to undertake construction of one of these without have experience with working with a small Hydrocal/plaster kit. The Motrak Supply Shed is just what I was looking for. It is relatively simple to construct and can be done in two or three evenings.

The components are few: 4 walls, roof board, roofing paper, signs and plastic detail parts (windows, doors, smoke jack, barrels). Additionally, the kit contains strip word for bracing and making some pallets. Directions are straightforward and well written including painting suggestions ala Randy Pepprock of Downtown Deco. The following photo shows the components of the kit as well as the walls that I prepped with brick color primer from WalMart.

The use of the brick color primer inadvertently eliminated the need to paint the walls a brick color after sealing as the priming/sealing process created a nice brick colored wall that provided me with a good starting point for mortar and weathering. I believe I got this idea from a Scott Mason video, but I won’t swear to it as I have slept since I watched his videos.

Next I began constructing the walls by using white glue and my small (1”) angle plates to insure corners where square

Once the four walls where assembled, I braced the corners with the 1/8” square strip wood included. I attached wood to corners with gap filling ACC.

The next photo shows the beginning of the wash process I used on the bricks with various mixes of India ink and alcohol (IA). You can also see the windows (as well as door which is not shown) that where painted with the dabbing process using a fine sponge to create a peeling paint effect as suggested by Doug Foscale. I used Prismacolor Markers to color individual bricks to provide a more realistic brick look.

Next I applied the roofing paper to the sub-roof board. The hardest part here is the cutting of the rolled roofing paper into scale 3’ strips. The application is a snap as the sub-roof has laser lines burned into assuring straight and accurate application of the rolled roofing. I also distressed a corner by ripping the rolled roofing and scribing boards and nail holes on the sub-roof. I then applied several coats of I/A to “age.” I did not permanently attach the roof at this point, as I wanted access to the interior from both top and bottom.

Next I applied some Roberts Brick Mortar mix. This went on a little heavier than I had anticipated and made for very white and pronounced mortar.

It washes off the face of the bricks easily, but necessitates reapplying of I/A washes to tone down the mortar. The following photo shows the wall after some washes where applied, the windows and door where installed as well as shades using masking tape.

At this point, I installed baffles to insure no light leakage into the structure and provide a darken interior.

The last two photos show the completed shed with the roof installed and smoke jack installed as well as some application of Bragdon powders to provide final “ageing” of the brick. I am planning on placing this structure on my layout, so I did not use any signs on the walls. This will come when I decide where it will be placed and what function it will serve. I am now ready undertake building a more complex kit with Hydrocal/plaster components.

I look forward to any thoughts, questions or suggestions you might have.


A Maine Expatriate living in the valley of Northern California - Modeling in HO.
David Stickney

Country: USA | Posts: 466

Engine Wiper

Posted - 06/01/2011 :  11:22:53 PM  Show Profile  Visit HW's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nice job! I'd like to see more contributions of uncomplicated builds.

Country: Philippines | Posts: 165 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 06/03/2011 :  6:03:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well done - it would be nice if you could cover those seams with a vine or downspout or something to keep the eye from focusing on them. I agree Richard.


Country: USA | Posts: 4394 Go to Top of Page

Engine Wiper

Posted - 06/04/2011 :  1:15:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanx Elliot and Richard. The seams are not as obvious from the normal viewing distance (3' rule), but I agree and will have a junction box and piping up to roof for one seam. Another thought would be to have some scrap lumber in barrel on the corner to draw eye away from seam.

A Maine Expatriate living in the valley of Northern California - Modeling in HO.
David Stickney

Country: USA | Posts: 466 Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic: power pole transformers Topic Next Topic: Corrugated roofing question  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-2020 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.3 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000