Railroad Line Forums - Warped Splice
Railroad Line Forums
Username:
Password:
Save Password


Register
Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 9 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 57 ]  [ Total: 66 ]  [ Newest Member: Faire to Midland ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 Mike Chambers' Craftsman's Corner
 Warped Splice
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: Paper/Card Challenge - Rolling Stock Edition! Topic Next Topic: A new railtruck and an old Climax on the Sundance.  

Pooga
New Hire



Posted - 03/13/2011 :  3:07:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi All,
I was hoping to get some advice on how to fix a warping problem.



Above I have the two pieces that will make up the rear of my barn wall. It is about 47 scale ft. to the peak, and it is in S scale, so the normal 6 inch wide NorthEastern basswood clapboard obviously wasn't high enough. (don't they sell this stuff in bigger sheets or something?)

So...what I did was glue together the two pieces and put a support piece on the back for strength. The support piece is balsa.


This worked out swell for front wall...but the rear wall looks something like this:




I don't quite understand why. I had it weighted down totally flat overnight. The only thing I can think of is that I was a little "heavy handed" with the glue, and maybe the balsa wood splice just sucked it up and and curled. (I dunno)
My question is...how do I fix it?
Do I wet the whole thing...or one of the sides (back or front) and then press it flat under glass or something?
It is difficult to brace the whole thing now because the splice is kind of in the way.
help?
Paul B.

Country: USA | Posts: 9

LVN
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/13/2011 :  3:58:48 PM  Show Profile  Visit LVN's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Since the back is unpainted there is a tendancy for the wood to warp. At this point I would build the four walls of the structure and put a bass wood beam across the building peaks from one end to another. This will force the top pitch of the roof out and take the warp out of it.

Chris Lyon
http://www.lyonvalleynorthern.blogspot.com

Edited by - LVN on 03/13/2011 4:01:08 PM

Country: Canada | Posts: 5293 Go to Top of Page

DaVinci1953
Crew Chief

Posted - 03/13/2011 :  3:59:45 PM  Show Profile  Visit DaVinci1953's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The grain on the balsa piece goes the same way. I'm guessing that is the problem. If you can add some beefy braces like the ones you have lower down going across the splice I'm sure it would hel[.

Lance Russwurm
http//www.lancerusswurm.com

Country: Canada | Posts: 684 Go to Top of Page

DaVinci1953
Crew Chief

Posted - 03/13/2011 :  4:00:30 PM  Show Profile  Visit DaVinci1953's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The grain on the balsa piece goes the same way. I'm guessing that is the problem. If you can add some beefy braces like the ones you have lower down going across the splice at right angles I'm sure it would help.

Lance


Lance Russwurm
http//www.lancerusswurm.com

Country: Canada | Posts: 684 Go to Top of Page

Pooga
New Hire



Posted - 03/13/2011 :  4:13:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Chris:
I had not thought of that! That does seem like it might work. Although, with me luck, the rear wall would just push out the the front wall and they would both be warped.
Actually, if I can "super-brace" the front wall, and not brace the peak part of the rear wall, I would probably be ok.
thanks!

Lance:
I think you may be right. It was so much easier to cut the balsa with the grain that I got lazy...next time I will make sure that the two pieces grain run perpendicular to each other.


Paul B.

Country: USA | Posts: 9 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 03/13/2011 :  4:25:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Lance, You need stripwood braces that cross the splice. that way the grain is going in the opposite direction from the siding. You should have at least two pieces and at least 10x10 HO scale in size.

Those long vertical pieces should extend across the splice.



Edited by - Rusty Stumps on 03/13/2011 4:26:16 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7895 Go to Top of Page

mabloodhound
Fireman



Posted - 03/13/2011 :  5:51:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Lance,
You always want your braces to have the grain running in the opposite direction to the grain of the wall.
I would bet that you could remove that balsa piece (might have to do a bit of sanding) and then put a couple of vertical braces on the walls.
Chris' suggestion is good but I have the same fear that you mentioned so it is better to fix it correctly now before you get too far into it.
I always add a ridge piece to my structures too for strength in the roof.



Country: USA | Posts: 6700 Go to Top of Page

Pooga
New Hire



Posted - 03/13/2011 :  6:20:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Walt and Dave,
My name is Paul actually...Lance was one of the people that responded to my Post.

It makes sense that I should run a brace the full length. (across the splice).
I was worried that running over the top of the splice though would compound the problem...but perhaps you are correct Dave...maybe I could remove the splice first (but I REALLY used alot of Flamingo glue on it...I thought it would make it strong...now it's just strong and crooked)


Paul B.

Country: USA | Posts: 9 Go to Top of Page

Rusty Stumps
Fireman



Posted - 03/13/2011 :  7:03:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Paul, Sorry, I tend to do that, even forget who I am sometimes!

Your issue is why I use 1/32" plywood for a sub-wall on all my kits, well most of them anyway.



Edited by - Rusty Stumps on 03/14/2011 12:30:18 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7895 Go to Top of Page

Pooga
New Hire



Posted - 03/13/2011 :  10:23:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Not a problem, Walt.
Sometimes I think the only reason I remember my own name is because my wife "reminds" me of it so often ("Paul, do this...Paul, do that)

She even has the nerve to complain about sending part of my paycheck to you! (the nerve of that woman)
BTW...I do love your products. And I appreciate the fact that you do make some in "S" scale. I'm just getting in to the hobby, and made the decision to work in "S"....but I think I am in for a long lonely road...because there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of offerings out there for this scale. It will either make me a better modeler, or be the death of me!


Paul B.

Country: USA | Posts: 9 Go to Top of Page

Neil M
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 03/14/2011 :  05:15:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
you could stick more balsa to the wall under the vertical braces if you don't want to remove the balsa brace that is there.

it would be a good idea to brace the other walls as well to avoid then warping in the future.


Built a waterfront HO layout in Ireland http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22161 but now making a start in On30 in Australia http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=52273

Country: Australia | Posts: 2501 Go to Top of Page

mabloodhound
Fireman



Posted - 03/14/2011 :  09:48:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Paul,
Sorry, got it from Walt
Neil's suggestion is an option if you can't get the old balsa off.
Just add pieces of balsa under the vertical braces and weight it down until it dries and hope the warp goes away.
As for 'S' scale, there is quite a bit out there. And definitely check with Frederic as his modeling is S scale as are his buildings and he has tons of research info for S.



Country: USA | Posts: 6700 Go to Top of Page

Pooga
New Hire



Posted - 03/14/2011 :  12:10:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
"stick more wood under the vertical braces"

Well...it's official.
I'm an idiot.
I totally didn't even think of that! (so simple)

Thank you Neil. I'm gonna give that a try tonight and see how it goes.


Paul B.

Country: USA | Posts: 9 Go to Top of Page

Nutty Professor
New Hire



Posted - 03/14/2011 :  5:14:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi,

On another track, what's wrong with the warp? I've seen many real structures with warps of various types, perhaps due to water damage since the time of their construction.

If you put in a square "floor" inside the walls and add a square "ceiling" to make the lower part plumb and square, then perhaps putting in a square (rectangular) under-roof on one side, that might bend the warp out of that piece.



Country: USA | Posts: 5 Go to Top of Page

anubis51
Fireman



Posted - 03/15/2011 :  12:59:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hello Paul,

I seem to have heard of this happening before.....





http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32676







Time is the Gauge of Existence

Country: Australia | Posts: 1349 Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic: Paper/Card Challenge - Rolling Stock Edition! Topic Next Topic: A new railtruck and an old Climax on the Sundance.  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-19 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.48 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000