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andykins
Fireman
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 Posted - 01/26/2011 : 04:29:16 AM
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this thread will follow the build of my new and 1st on30 layout.
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"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
Unknown |
Country: United Kingdom
| Posts: 3877 |
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andykins
Fireman
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Posted - 01/26/2011 : 04:49:55 AM
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we all leanr from our mistakes, and i made alot of mistake on my HO layout.
1. the base boards where far to large for me on my own.
2. the way i joined the base boards had a lot left to be desired.
3. some jobs where rushed to meet a deadline
4. poor choice on plugs/ misc parts
this layout will hopfuly address these, as well as doing something in a larger scale, bizzarely enough apart from on30 being the scale that got me into american, this is my 1st on30 layout. it will be two base boards. both 3ft long and a foot wide, so a small layout, however this is the room i have aloted myself, and will be far better for me to lug around on my own etc etc.
the track plan is simple, yet thanks to careful planning before any wood was cut, knew where id have space for buildings. and how long of stock i could fit, while it still be fun to run at shows/ on my own.
in my dream world i would have used ME points and hand built track, but since this is a portible layout and didnt have the space for the size of the ME points, settled with peco code 100 on30 track, its a bit chucky but with careful painting and weathering shouldnt look too bad.
as before hand operated points, this time via wood dowels and wire. i fidn this more fun to use (as everything isnt "hands off") and less lickly to go wrong. its cheaper too.
unlike last time the layout will be DCC and has been wired so (i.e floaded with feeds just to be safe)
in under a week i have built the base boards (18mm x 70mm pine frame work, with 6mm ply top and 2"x1" to support joins in the ply and have laid and wired 90% of the track.
to get rid of the fumbly joints like on my HO layout i had desided to try loose pin hinges, however failing standards in the making of these ment they had far to much play in them, so pattern makers dowels, and over centre latches have been used.
the dowels are easy to fit, but laying th boards down on something flat, drilling a pilot hole, splitting the boards, and using a 25mm flat bit, drill in about 3mm, and on the female side, drill right through with a 9mm bit as well. and the boards will join the same way everytime, the latches just clamp the two together.
on my HO layout i did use copper clad sleeps (as they are called here) at the edges of the base board. the idea being that this will hold the track in place in case of a knock. however theses where an dogs bottom to get right, and didnt hold all to well, so ive gone back to a tried a tested mehod that i 1st saw use on a now defuct club layout i once belonged too. and a little step by step that might of use to anyone.
1st the track is laid across the join, and ties removed, mark for a pilot hole and drill.
next screw in solid brass screws down, and adjust so they fit just under the rail, tacking care that they dont life the rail. and tin with solder (took a while to get hot enough though)
once you are sure that the track is inline properly, use two bits of wet kitchen paper as heat sinks to stop the plastic chairs melting. and holding the rails firm with a track gauge solder the rails to the tinned screws.
then check with the gauge and a bit of stock to make sure everything is golden, then slit the rails in half and there you have it, solid as a rock track that should withstand a knock or two.
just to end, here is a pic from monday  before track work started to give you an idea of over all size, the fiddle yard will be fed via a casset system. and as you can see, fits nicle on the dinner room table while being worked on.
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"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
Unknown |
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Country: United Kingdom
| Posts: 3877 |
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hiesler
Engine Wiper
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Locoman
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/26/2011 : 06:00:42 AM
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Andy, Fantastic start. Glad to see you decided to build a layout. I like some of you techniques, i.e., snap looks and mateing pins to keep the modules in alignment. Looking forward to your build. BTW, you are providing excellent explanations.
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Jim
Curmudgeon Rock and Timber Co. Short Line
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=28246 |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1534 |
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Geezer
Fireman
Premium Member
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Neil M
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/26/2011 : 07:49:19 AM
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That looks good Andy. What is the idea for the layout? Logging, mining, larger carrier (DRGW, EBT type thing)?
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| Built a waterfront HO layout in Ireland http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22161 but now making a start in On30 in Australia |
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Country: Australia
| Posts: 2173 |
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kirk
Fireman
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Posted - 01/26/2011 : 08:22:59 AM
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Off to a good start there Andy! I used the solder-to-screws method for my drop leaf bridge by the door, and it works a charm.
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Troels Kirk
Näsum, Sweden
http://coastline.no13.se |
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Country: Sweden
| Posts: 4526 |
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andykins
Fireman
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Posted - 01/26/2011 : 09:07:52 AM
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max, since thay are below rail hight, just a touch more ballest will hide them, not to add with track as base board edges i ballest alone the sides of the rails too. make sure you get solid brass screws. ive found plated to be an arse to solider too, also clean the tops off with a wire brush in a mini drill as some come with a coating to stop the brass coroding.
the idea is mid west, 40's-50's narrow gauge shortline, purely because i want too it seams the midwest lost its narrow gauge railways in the late 1800's but my excuse is there was enough need between a number of towns to warrent a railroad, however lack of cash ment the only locos and stock that could be aforded was narrow gauge. and its been biteing them in the backside ever since with the extra work needed at transshipment points with the sandard gauge network.
just ran the 1st loco. forgot to feed one sideing so i'll just go solder some wires to a fishplate and plug that in. i'll get a photo of the underside so you can see how much i "hate" wireing and try to keep everything a simple as i can (after all, the more there is, the more there is to go wrong.
i may also add another plug to the front of the layout for home use. but all seams well, im just now waiting for some more brass screws (because my mind went "meeeher" and i brought 10, when i needed 12) so i can do the line upto the fright depot.
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"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
Unknown |
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Country: United Kingdom
| Posts: 3877 |
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Tommatthews
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/26/2011 : 09:52:44 AM
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Andy,
Very good ... I sure like the idea of the brass screws. I can think of a few applications where hand laid rail needs to be held solid to make it work.
Thanks ...
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milocomarty
Fireman
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ba4990
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 01/26/2011 : 2:07:29 PM
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Good start Andy.
If I understand you right you're modeling a midwest USA narrow gauge? If so, you're right that most were gone by the late 1800's but a few hung around later. Here in Iowa we had the Bellevue and Cascade (or Cascade Branch of the Milwaukee Road). It lasted into the 30's.
Though only lasting into the first decade of the 20th century I find the Fulton County Narrow gauge, the Burlington Western and Burlington Northwestern inspirational for midwest narrow gauge.
Good luck!
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Bill Allen
A.C. & M.R.V. Ry. |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 113 |
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anubis51
Crew Chief
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Posted - 01/26/2011 : 2:31:34 PM
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Hi there Andy,
Your first attempt at On30 looks good, and I like the brass screw method of aligning the track joins.
The plywood used in your baseboard construction is the blue layer in your pix, is it not? This then appears to be covered with a sheet of cork. Should be a quiet runner.
(I really like the two bottles of HP sauce on your table, too......) 
Please keep us posted with your progress.
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| Time is the Gauge of Existence |
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Country: Australia
| Posts: 932 |
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elwoodblues
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/26/2011 : 3:10:35 PM
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Andy, great start on the railway.
I can see that you Brits are ahead of us on the building of modules. I only found out about the pattern makers dowels a couple of weeks ago and I really like the idea of using the brass screws to hold the track at the module joints, very simple yet very effective.
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Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railway Co.
http://www.cvry.ca |
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Country: Canada
| Posts: 4872 |
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BigLars
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/26/2011 : 7:41:12 PM
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Andy,
Keep it up and I will have to have you visit this summer to build me some modules.
Thanks for the how to.
Larry
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Country: USA
| Posts: 7365 |
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andykins
Fireman
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Posted - 01/27/2011 : 03:52:42 AM
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ron. we kinda have too, most houses are far smaller compaired to yours. so most layouts need to be "broken down" to store if they are not permament set ups. not to add its always fun to build a layout that can be used at shows, the show scene here is huge with 100's of show (most small, hosted by a club local to the venue) thought out the year. if this is ready for our next show (march 2012) then it'll go in.
anubis, yes the ply is the blue layer, any paint would have done to seal the ply and blue just happened to be what i grabed, makes seaing the wires easier too though haha
bill, thanks for the info, i'll just go look those up, i want to base mine in iowa (as my last layout was too) so its great to hear something lasted intot he 30's
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"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
Unknown |
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Country: United Kingdom
| Posts: 3877 |
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andykins
Fireman
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Posted - 01/27/2011 : 08:19:45 AM
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larry you're always welcome.
just a couple picture updates from yesterday
although it looks hectic. its as simple as i thought i could do, i had thought about bus wires and having the feeds tot he track join at the closest point, but that would increse the number of joints, and the number of placese where things can go wrong.
and the track work re; 4pm yesterday. i was also playing trains *cough* testing*cough* with just a old hornby controller everything works fine.
this morning the brass screws turned up, so the last bit of track, the line to the freight depot was finneshed and wired. and tested *cough* played trains *cough*
next task is to make a start on the cassettes. thats after lunch though.
also dug out an old o gauge building i made for the club, and the club have yet to ask for it back. and plonked it on and worked out a few sizes, and drew on the cork to give me a rough idea where i want buildings, and of what size. mostly just the "flats" at the back.
not sure what to do regarding passangers. they may just get a small wooden platform and no shelter. not sure. (ideas?)
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"Is it really "rivet counting" if it's regarding NBW castings?"
Unknown |
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Country: United Kingdom
| Posts: 3877 |
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