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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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 Posted - 05/08/2010 : 2:56:24 PM
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As you might have noticed, per my previous post on the DCC forum, I have been working on my MDC shay. I thought that I would share the things that I have done to it.
Here is a pic of it as bought and running on DC:
Shortly after getting the DCC system I installed a z121 decoder and after listening to my brother's sound in his B'shay I bought a MRC sound unit and started installing it. I needed more space so I raised the top of the bunker 3/16"
While I did this I replaced the MDC gears with NWSL stuff. After the trials and troubles getting this to run right and getting the lights to look the way I wanted I am ready to move on to more detailing.
More later,
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
Country: USA
| Posts: 948 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/08/2010 : 6:11:56 PM
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Here are some more pics.
pic of the raised bunker
speaker installed in bunker
NWSL can motor installed
and the shroud around the fly wheel
a test fit of the bunker
more later
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 948 |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
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Posted - 05/09/2010 : 09:16:59 AM
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Phil, it's always interesting to see people build this model with great potential but difficult assembly. And even better to see you've overcome the running problems and have reached the much easier decorating step.
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| Frederic Testard |
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Country: France
| Posts: 16438 |
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/09/2010 : 10:41:30 AM
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Nice looking progress, great looking job!
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 Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 11258 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/09/2010 : 4:40:19 PM
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Frederic, thanks for your kind words. I discovered that most of the binding was in the bull gear housing after tighting it down. Have to remember NOT to over tighten as the sides spread out top and bottom but squeezes the idler. The rest of the binding was in the gear mesh at the wheels and "bevel" gears.I had to go thru the wheel gears and round off the bottom of the sawtooth like gears. I ran my fine small round file once between the teeth from outside to the center.
Louis, Thanks also for your kind words.
Now, for the lights I replaced the large 12v bulbs with 1.5v mini bulbs which are installed vertically in the lite housings. They look like glass chimmeys for oil lamps. I drilled a hole thru the vent knob on top and up from inside to meet the cross drill.
red lines
After testing different resistors I settled on the 820ohm for the best effect.
I needed the wires for the front lite to [past along the left side of the cab instead of the right which necessitated making a groove for the wires and while doing that I enlarged the orginal groove to clear the resistor. I made a styrene plug to hold the lite wires in place and so that I could replace the lite if needed.
For the rear lite I needed some way to corral the wires and a mounting area for the resistor so I made this mount/retainer and screwed it to the bunker mounting lug.
We will have to see if I'll need a third mount in the front for vibration control.
Next up will be the fire box modifications.
Until then,
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 948 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/12/2010 : 2:51:24 PM
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Moving on.
Since I am doing all of this detailing I was looking at the piece of plastic that MDC stuck on to simulate the fire box side and the big emptiness under the frame and decided to do something about it.
I pulled off the side which is just a force fit of a couple of pegs in holes. I glued a piece of 3/32" evergreen H-beam to the bottom of the side to give this a little more depth. Then laid out and notched the new ends to fit around the drive shafts and the bull gear housing.
This filled the area and after some paint it doesn't look too bad either. I didn't make rivets or other details as it is well hidden and not much would show in the shadows.
After this was finished I thought I would see if I could make a backhead that would cover the shaft to the bull gear. I made this arch and fitted it around the shaft.
Then went wild and started slicing slices and small pieces of various rods for gauges, valves and pipes.
and another pic
painted. I painted the throttle, brake valve handles and the sides of the gauges with brass paint.
in place without cab
set in the cab and here you can see the johnson bar lever that is glued to the cab side instead of the backhead
and a couple of pics thru the windows. Also you can see the painted firebox.
and the new Cal-Scale bell and air compressers. I also opened up the cab hatch. It doesn't look like it but the hatch and the top of the stack are right at 2" high from rail head.
I had painted some red danger zones on the gauges but have since decided that they would not be there in 1910 so have removed them.
Now, need to find me some crew and find some one to make the Carrie Creek decals.
Later,
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 948 |
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bitlerisvj
Crew Chief
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Posted - 05/13/2010 : 09:43:19 AM
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Hi Phil,
Which MRC Sound unit did you decide on? I am curious as the only Shay sound I found was from a Tsunami. Is the MRC sound unit for a Shay and what does it sound like? Are you pleased with it? I have not yet gotten to that point on my 3-truck Shay, but am gathering all needed parts and stuff. I kind of think a Shay with sound would just be fantastic.
Thanks and regards, Vic Bitleris
quote:
Originally posted by Carrie Creek
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Country: USA
| Posts: 926 |
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Thorn Creek and Western
Fireman
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Posted - 05/13/2010 : 1:05:51 PM
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Phil-
Excellent work on that backhead!
-Dave
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Country: USA
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 05/13/2010 : 11:52:29 PM
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Vic.
I am using the Mini HO/N Gauge Synchronized steam sound decoder #01639. It is not for shays specificly. LOK makes a sound decoder designed for shays which I have for my Bachmann 3 truck shay. I haven't installed that one yet so can't tell you what it sounds like.
The MRC unit gives you 4 options for setting the chuff. CV55 sets whether you want single/double chuff, CV120 sets the rate (faster/slower) CV 121 sets the start point and CV56 sets the volume.
Hope, that this helps in your decision.
Dave, Thanks for your kind words.
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 948 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/08/2010 : 8:01:17 PM
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Update on the build,
Since I have finished with the testing and have the wiring figured out I removed the big bulky plug connectors and soldered the wires together and then slipped a piece of shrink tubing over that was a tight fit but did not shrink them. This will allow me to disassemble without cutting the wires as I can unsolder the joints.
I discovered that I needed to screw down the front edge of the bunker as it wanted to pull up and I had vibration buzz when running so needed to tighten it down.
You can see the brass hex heads under the front edge of the bunker. I think that even painting them black they will show so I would like some suggestions of what to hide them behind.
I have thought about some re-railer frogs. Although I didn't find any in my Walters catolog. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for looking and for any comments good or bad.
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 948 |
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Thorn Creek and Western
Fireman
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Posted - 07/08/2010 : 10:10:30 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Carrie Creek
...I have thought about some re-railer frogs...
Phil-
Durango Press makes them-- part no. 106.
Also Detail Associates, part no. 7-103.
And Precision Scale makes several types. HO-3115 and HO-3110 are brass, HO-32102 and HO-31644 are plastic.
-Dave
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Country: USA
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/11/2010 : 12:20:13 AM
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Thanks, Dave, for the part numbers. Was down at my LHS yesterday and had him order some Detail Ass.ones along with some Labelle LP's for my engines. I was suppose to buy some more CA glue but forgot .
Today (Sat) I tried to make a steam driven pump first one was no good so tried again. Pics:
decided that the styrene rod was too big changed to a piece of brass wire .019". The .015" wire for the steam line also goes across as the drive shaft for the pump.
probably did not need to make the exhust pipe so long but looks neat.
I then made a coiled up canvas hose out of .020"x.060" styrene strip. Needed a way to get the water from pump to tank.
If this looks okay I'll paint them up and glue down. then hang the suction hose under the frame rail.
Thanks again for looking and for your comments
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 948 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/26/2010 : 3:17:06 PM
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After finailly finding some pictures of rerailers I thought that I would try and make some. The first fact I discovered was that there are inside and outside rerailers and they have to be used in pairs. They are two different things, the outside is designed to lift the flange back over the rail head while the inside one lifts just enough to get the tread back on. The outside one relies on a slope to work the wheel over and the inside has a V shaped flange to guide the wheel over.
Here are some pics of my unpainted attempts.
Now paint them and make some hangers that will hide the screws under the bunker.
These things weigh around 150+lbs each which might explain why my brother and I are having such a hard time finding pics of them hanging on hangers.They seem to be just slid on to the running boards loose. For two guys standing on loose ballast while lifting 150# up to shoulder height and trying to get it hooked on hooks would be a bit taxing. That aside, these I need to hang.
Thanks again for pausing and looking.
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Phil
POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 948 |
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closetguy
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/26/2010 : 9:29:45 PM
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Nice work..
I need to keep this all in mind when I start my redoes of my 2 and 3 truck MDC shays.
Mike M
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1288 |
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BigLars
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 07/26/2010 : 10:08:16 PM
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Very nice! Maybe one day I will get mine back in service.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 7356 |
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Neil M
Fireman
Premium Member
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