Railroad Line Forums - 0-6-0 Porter; all brass
Railroad Line Forums
Save Password

Forgot Password?
  Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register
Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics
Photo Album | File Lister | File Library
[ Active Members: 0 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 225 ]  [ Total: 225 ]  [ Newest Member: wandering rr ]
 All Forums
 Model Railroad Forums
 The On30 Line
 0-6-0 Porter; all brass
Next Page
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Author Previous Topic: Sandy Creek RR Topic Next Topic: S. Pettit inspired engine house scratch build
Page: of 4


Posted - 04/25/2010 :  3:50:06 PM  Show Profile  Visit lab-dad's Homepage  Send lab-dad a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
I purchased on of these brass and cast metal kits that uses a Bachmann HO 0-6-0 mechanizim.
I used the etchings that make the cab and saddle tank but will not be using the cast metal details.
I have some PSC details I may use and have been building the others from scratch.
Obviously these are "in progress" shots


Country: USA | Posts: 1543

New Hire

Posted - 04/25/2010 :  4:07:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Is that a Backwoods kit or from another manufacturer?

Modelling anything with a flange

Country: Australia | Posts: 23 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 04/25/2010 :  4:25:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice job Marty!!!! WOW~!

Country: USA | Posts: 12973 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 04/25/2010 :  4:30:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good looking engine Marty!

This is a fine model and it will be even more interesting to see some extra details added.

I have a Backwoods brass kit (climax) sitting here in the box, so any hints on working with the brass would be most appreciated.


Country: USA | Posts: 11713 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 04/25/2010 :  7:05:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks good Marty. Roland

Country: USA | Posts: 1922 Go to Top of Page

Frederic Testard

Premium Member

Posted - 04/25/2010 :  7:15:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice new project, Marty. I'll follow with interest and pleasure the machining of the various domes so as they fit the boiler curvature.

Country: France | Posts: 17652 Go to Top of Page

Mario Rapinett

Posted - 04/25/2010 :  11:33:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
G'day Marty. Another one of your classic's in progress. Could you advise of the manufacturer for the metal kit.

cheers mate


Country: Australia | Posts: 5872 Go to Top of Page

Dave D

Posted - 04/26/2010 :  07:27:52 AM  Show Profile  Click to see Dave D's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Gee, I hope that is the BWM kit Marty.

I just purchased one and have yet to open the box and niff around it, and your looks fantastic!

Now I have to go look.

I decided to build the Boxcab conversion from them first.

Can I ask why you decided to go with the PSC detail parts over those from the kit?

Great work, keep the updates commin!

Edited by - Dave D on 04/26/2010 07:31:13 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 1058 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 04/26/2010 :  08:19:34 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Marty, you're becoming the brass master.
Thanks for sharing your build with us.

Country: USA | Posts: 23861 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 04/26/2010 :  08:26:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Excellent work so far. Your brass work just keeps getting better!!!



"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 12638 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 04/26/2010 :  09:30:12 AM  Show Profile  Visit lab-dad's Homepage  Send lab-dad a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys!
Yes it is a Backwoods kit (they dont pay me to advertise) :D
I chose to use the brass pieces over the kit pieces as the pot metal (or Cero, or whatever)
is not really round and clean.
Then again neither is the PSC castings.
The PSC sand domes are not round enough, or the filler holes straight enough to allow mounting
in the lathe for truing or drilling for mounting hardware.
As for machining the radius on the dome bases I am going to try a flycutter in the mill.
Mounting the dome in a fixture sideways should do it (ordered the fly cutter today)
If the steam dome works I may try the sand domes.

Working with brass is easy.
I always solder, it is bullet proof!
Most guys use too much solder, I only use what will stay on the end of a iron.
I have the Radio Shack 20/40 watt iron for most things.
Larger pieces I use a micro torch on.
Also clean, clean, clean.
Most of all a little paste flux (not too much)
Try some scraps from an etching and see how easy it is, clothes pins and
metal blocks make great soldering fixtures.

I also use a piece of black marble tile 12" x 12" to solder on.
Hope this gets some of you started on your brass project.

Country: USA | Posts: 1543 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 04/26/2010 :  09:46:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I love seeing brass work, looks great, I may have to make one of those some day.


Country: | Posts: 1382 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 04/29/2010 :  09:43:10 AM  Show Profile  Visit lab-dad's Homepage  Send lab-dad a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Well the flycutter came yesterday! (Ordered from Sherline Sunday night!)
So I set up to cut the radius on the steam dome.

First off;
How to set the cutter to make a .750" radius cut? (1.5" diameter)
I thought about a dial indicator, but how to "read" the backside?
So I checked with my caliper and set it a little smaller.
Then I put a scrap in the vise and made some test cuts, eventually I snuck up to a diameter of 1.495"
I had to trim some of the back of the cutter so it wouldn't hit the workpiece.

I decided I didnt need a "jig".
I just mounted the rotary table on it's side and put the 3-jaw chuck in it.
I wasnt really sure how to make sure it was all lined up on the centerline so what I did was put a .032"
music wire in the chuck and a .032 bit in the mill.
Even so I guess the cutter is slightly offset, so I had to move the table back .005"

And the final pass!
The fly cutter cuts great! I'm really glad I needed it!
I ended up moving (or removing from) the dome .025"

I think I did pretty damn good for a first time!
Now for those sand domes that look like turds........

Hope you enjoyed this.

Country: USA | Posts: 1543 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 04/29/2010 :  10:26:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Very interesting and enjoyable. Please share more with us.

Tom M.

Country: | Posts: 9572 Go to Top of Page

Engine Wiper

Posted - 04/29/2010 :  10:35:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey Marty,

Thanks for the step-by-step with the milling process; very informative.

I have been interested in getting a mill and lathe, but I can't yet justify the cost; especially when I don't know how to use one.

So thanks for providing a perfect example of the use of one!

BTW: I too have the same Backwoods Miniatures 0-6-0 conversion kit; it is still in kit form.

Thanks for sharing; looking forward to your continued postings.

Country: USA | Posts: 324 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 04/29/2010 :  11:31:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Marty, Very nice. Dumb question, what is the piece in front of the dome with the ring through it? I've never seen that before. Roland

Country: USA | Posts: 1922 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 4 Previous Topic: Sandy Creek RR Topic Next Topic: S. Pettit inspired engine house scratch build  
 New Topic |   New Poll New Poll |   Reply to Topic | 
Next Page
Jump To:
Railroad Line Forums © 2000-2020 Railroad Line Co. Go To Top Of Page
Steam was generated in 0.39 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000