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Author Previous Topic: Cutting stripwood Topic Next Topic: Need help on GGG Burkholtz Ten Stamp Mill
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danpickard
Fireman

Posted - 03/10/2010 :  07:42:43 AM  Show Profile  Visit danpickard's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi all,
I thought I would start a build thread for "Thurogoods Transfer & Warehouse Company", a kit being released by Outback Model Company (the new partnership of Laurie Green & John Hunter). Apparently they are still finalising some Paypal details with their website, but I was able to collect this kit from them directly last weekend.



Starting with the opening of the box...




Nicely packed, smaller box for some of the more delicate items, printed B&W manual, CD with coloured version, signs, Mt Albert Lumber supplies and some detail castings...even a milimetre ruler for the US builders who tend to use inch measures still.


The former/shell of the structure is laser cut matt board. Matt board being what these guys would normally use in one of their usual scratch built models (not as prone to warping like a ply shell).


The really handy assembly/erection template for building the large deck, laser cut matt board.


3 sheets of rough shingles, laser cut heavy paper stock.










A selection of the laser cut ply sheets, including windows (that work), doors, rough cut weatherboards, board & battern siding, stairs and roof trims. Really nice class 1 ply sheets. There is extensive use of their new laser cutter used in this first kit.

All up about 17 laser cut sheets of materials and templates, a few Grandt Line details, a handful of their own resin detail castings, laser cut pulleys, rope, laser cut window acetate and a few handy tools to get things started.

I'll start prep work on some of the timber, and continue the build in the next day or so...

Cheers,
Dan Pickard
http://www.austnarrowgaugeconvention.com/

Country: Australia | Posts: 1326

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 03/10/2010 :  08:22:56 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dan

Will be following along. Looks to be an interesting kit.

Jerry


Jerry

"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 9347 Go to Top of Page

wesleybeks
Fireman



Posted - 03/10/2010 :  09:05:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks like an interesting kit Dan.

I was really excited when i heard that they are starting their own line of kits.

Is the price on their website Ozzy or American Dollars?



Country: South Africa | Posts: 2763 Go to Top of Page

Neil M
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 03/10/2010 :  09:44:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Why are the rough cut boards laser cut? are the edges cut unevenly?

It just seems a pain to have to sand off all those burnt edges when stripwood could have done the same without all the extra work if the boards are regular, straight edged boards.

I looks like an interesting and characterful building.



Built a waterfront HO layout in Ireland http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22161 but now making a start in On30 in Australia

Country: Australia | Posts: 2448 Go to Top of Page

BBLmber
Fireman



Posted - 03/10/2010 :  09:44:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dan, that does look to be a very nice kit, it will be great to see your build.

Mark


W,L,&E

Country: USA | Posts: 6046 Go to Top of Page

jknapp
Fireman

Posted - 03/10/2010 :  10:17:43 AM  Show Profile  Visit jknapp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Dan.....look forward to following along.


John Knapp
Sellersville, PA

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/photo_album_cat.asp?sqldtl=1292

Country: USA | Posts: 2535 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 03/10/2010 :  10:41:07 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Dan for posting. First I heard of this company (Outback Model Company) it looks to be a fine kit from your pictures and anything from Laurie Green should be a good one. Looking forward to your build.

Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast

Country: USA | Posts: 17354 Go to Top of Page

danpickard
Fireman

Posted - 03/10/2010 :  3:42:13 PM  Show Profile  Visit danpickard's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Neil,
Yes, the rough cut boards do have laser cut uneven edges, not big variations, just small nicks and wobbles so once laminated to the structure shell, they gain a bit of an aged look. The idea being that John & Laurie wanted their kits to end up looking like one of their scratchbuilds (since so many modellers ask how to reproduce their style of modelling, here it is now in a box). If you were to choose not to have the rough sawn edge on the weatherboards, simply install upside down and use the straight edge as the exposed side. They said they didn't want to use prescribed timber siding for the reason that getting there rough modelled look then takes more work. This is still is still pretty much board on board construction, just with laser cut board.

I've stained a few sheets of the laser cut ply, and I almost think it is a nicer/finer grain than some of the basswood I've used in the past. They have done a very good job of controlling their laser, just enough depth to cut the different materials, which has left minimal burn marks across the visible edges. Since the ply is 0.8mm and 0.6mm thick, in the few experiments I've done with some of their material, that fine burn edge has almost looked like the shadowed underside of the weatherboards exposed lip, which I would have created at a later stage anyway when I put an A+I wash over the walls the deepen the shadows.

Not sure if that all makes sense, hopefully some photos will explain it better.

Dan Pickard


http://www.austnarrowgaugeconvention.com/

Country: Australia | Posts: 1326 Go to Top of Page

danpickard
Fireman

Posted - 03/10/2010 :  4:01:25 PM  Show Profile  Visit danpickard's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I thought I'd start with a couple of the "tools" supplied with the kit. The instruction manual outlines some of the tools they use with their modelling. A couple of them are available as laser cut matt board pieces, that when assembled, do make handy tools (helps get you started if you don't already have that particular tool handy...I have a good number, but thought I'd try theres out anyway).




First up is a right angle/90 degree sanding tool, which also has some precut sand paper included (handy little tool for small clean ups on lengths of timber).


Second tool was a small assembly square. It is actually square, I have a few other small metal machinist squares that I use, but not as small as this one, so I will also keep it in the tool box.

On with the timber soon.

Dan Pickard


http://www.austnarrowgaugeconvention.com/

Country: Australia | Posts: 1326 Go to Top of Page

morganhillmodels
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/10/2010 :  6:40:12 PM  Show Profile  Visit morganhillmodels's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dan, Thanks for the update. Nice detail photos of the contents. I am glad to see they have the kit ready to go. Outbacks website for anyone who needs it: http://www.outbackmodels.com/index.html


Country: USA | Posts: 236 Go to Top of Page

danpickard
Fireman

Posted - 03/10/2010 :  6:41:04 PM  Show Profile  Visit danpickard's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I should explain how I intend on doing this build in two stages. Stage one will be basically following the intended construction of this structure, built to the designed footprint, on the deck etc. There are a few differnt options to which way you as the modeller can go with the construction, such as, it doesn't need to be built on the deck (use it for another project), or the layout of the warehouse and office could be changed to suit the available space. I intend to place this as a diorama (no plans to install in a layout in the future), so the footprint ins't really an issue.

The second stage of the build will be taking the model, and showing how I incorporate it and finish it as a diorama, including trying to explain some of the ground work and extra detailing. I want to show that although this is a kit, it can easily be personalised, adding my own impression of how the building should be placed and presented. As well as the SBS photos, I'll put up two sets of "final" photos in this thread at the end of each stage.

So, colouring the timber.
Some initial staining has been done of the Mt Albert strip timber, plus the joists for the large deck. The strip timber has just been grained with a razor saw, then stained with an alcohol and ink (A+I) mixture, 100ml alcohol + 4ml burnt sienna ink + 3ml black ink, which just adds a bit of warmth to the stain colour (there are various tips on staining the timber in the instructions, but I'll show my technique here, OMC guys use the A+I solution). The laser cut ply sheets have been grained with a course sanding block (supplied in the kit), which both adds a bit if grain, plus breaks the smooth timber surface allowing for a better application of the stain.


This shows the initial stain applied, dried, and then a light rub with a white Conte' pastel pencil, which adds a bit of grey tone to the timber (the stumps will be further treated at a later stage).






These next shots show the next stage of my colouring process. After the A+I prestain has dried, I then like to scrape/dust on some artists chalks, in a burnt sienna, and the other colour I like to use is actually called greenish burnt sienna. I'll try to set up some shots to show it being done, but basically I use a small wire brush to scratch the chalk over the timber that is lying on the work surface. Here's the advantage of all the timber being on a fret, it makes this colouring process very quick and a bit cleaner than doing it to individual strips of timber. The second photo above shows how the boards are actually all cut separately on the ply sheet (not just scribed in), which I guess also ensures there is the right amount of timber supplied.

Once the chalk has been dusted onto the timber, I dip a stiff brush into a bit of straight alcohol, and wash it across the sheet of timber. It sort of turns the chalk dust into a stain, which can then be gently worked into the grain. I have then gone back with the white Conte' pencil after this has dried (only takes a couple of minutes) just to add a bit of grey tone back into the aging timber. One sheet of timber, ready to release from the fret and use on the build (the tiny unstained parts where the timber is release from the fret is easily touched over with a spot of the A+I solution.

Dan Pickard


http://www.austnarrowgaugeconvention.com/

Country: Australia | Posts: 1326 Go to Top of Page

jknapp
Fireman

Posted - 03/10/2010 :  11:50:14 PM  Show Profile  Visit jknapp's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Dan....I'm really liking your in-depth updates. Keep 'em coming with lots of pics and building details!


John Knapp
Sellersville, PA

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/photo_album_cat.asp?sqldtl=1292

Country: USA | Posts: 2535 Go to Top of Page

LVN
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/11/2010 :  12:13:41 AM  Show Profile  Visit LVN's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Interesting kit Dan. Looking forward to following your progress

Chris Lyon
http://www.lyonvalleynorthern.blogspot.com

Country: Canada | Posts: 5281 Go to Top of Page

Neil M
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 03/11/2010 :  06:16:13 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the clarification Dan.

I didn't realise the boards were so thin so it makes sense to laser cut there. I agree, it looks like the burn marks will disappear on the finished model.

Nice colouring on the boards so far. I'm looking forward to seeing how this goes



Built a waterfront HO layout in Ireland http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22161 but now making a start in On30 in Australia

Country: Australia | Posts: 2448 Go to Top of Page

Mario Rapinett
Fireman



Posted - 03/11/2010 :  11:29:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Exciting overall design.
Would make a great barn or water front structure also. Could be a sellout, world wide.

Dan... great tutorials....( and pics )




Country: Australia | Posts: 5717 Go to Top of Page

danpickard
Fireman

Posted - 03/12/2010 :  06:46:24 AM  Show Profile  Visit danpickard's Homepage  Reply with Quote
A little bit of progress (damn work keeps getting in the way of the "hobby time"). I started initial work on the deck construction, which involves the use of a handly little assembly jig. Once the basswood stumps are stained and then cut roughly to length, I have been sanding them back to a good fit in the jig pictured below...



Since a fair number of the stump and bearer assemblies are needed, first the stumps are "loaded" into the jig (good directions given as to how many of each length of stumps/bearers is marked on the jig, so cross them off as you go).


Stumps in the cut out slots in the jig...


Bearer glued in place across the stumps...


So the resulting assembly should come out looking pretty straight and evenly spaced, all stumps at 90 degrees. This is probably going to be one of the more tedious parts of the construction, simply because of the sanding to get the stumps a good snug fit in the jig, but since this is the foundation for the whole model, I guess it makes sense to spend that little bit of extra time getting this part right.

Only about a dozen of these similar stump sets to sand and assemble...

Cheers,
Dan Pickard


http://www.austnarrowgaugeconvention.com/

Country: Australia | Posts: 1326 Go to Top of Page
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