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Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 03/01/2010 :  8:45:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi everyone, well it seems their is a lot of talk about boats, so I thought this might be a good time to show you a build featuring one of our great Canadian kit manufacturers "Sylvan" Scale Models produces this steam ship Langell Boys. The history of these ships according to the instructions that come with this kit, are as follows. These wooden Great Lakes freighters known as "lumber hookers" built in the late 1800's and early 1900's were designed to carry sawn lumber.From ports in northern Michigan,Wisconsin and Ontario to the burgeoning cities of Chicago,Detroit,Cleveland and Buffalo. They ranged in size from 125 feet to over 200 feet. The Langell Boys at just over 150 feet was one of the smaller ones. This ship was built by Simon Langall at Marine City Michigan in 1890 and named for his seven sons. In 1920 this ship was completely rebuilt at the McLouth Shipyards in Marine City. She ended her career on June 13,1931 when she burned and sank on Lake Huron while destined for Spragge, Ontario to pick up a cargo of lumber.





This kit is moulded in polyurethane resin, I have built many structure and now vehicles by this company, but this will be my first ship model. I have taken photos of the kits contents for you to have a look at. And I plan to follow the instructions closely. I hope you will join me on this voyage.

















Greg Shinnie

Country: Canada | Posts: 8345

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 03/01/2010 :  10:12:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Greg,

A recommendation if this is your first Sylvan ship: Find a hull paint that you can apply in large quantities, yet duplicate for the inevitable touch-up. I didn't want to run out of hull paint using my airbrush, so I used a rattle can for the hull on the ore carrier, then had an "interesting" time trying to duplicate the paint color without spraying a pond into the top of the can in order to touch up the seams. I ultimately used the "touch up" color as a weathering process and hid things pretty well.

This is a cool kit, and I really like the Sylvan stuff. I'm looking forward to your build.

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 6731 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 03/01/2010 :  10:18:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Oh. One more thing: Don't skip the "mould release removal" step! It's important. Don't ask how I know this!

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 6731 Go to Top of Page

wesleybeks
Fireman



Posted - 03/02/2010 :  01:06:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks to be a great model Greg.

Will be watching with real interest how you go along.



Country: South Africa | Posts: 2829 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 03/02/2010 :  08:10:28 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hello Pete and Wes, thanks for your interest guys in my thread! Pete,I will take your suggestion about painting the hull, and I always use the Sylvan resin prep formula to clean my castings before painting. Also Pete since I know you are really informative regarding ships, I am not crazy about the hull colour in the photos, was this colour typically used on these ships? I would prefer to use black, any help you can give me on this matter would be great.

Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8345 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 03/02/2010 :  08:29:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Greg, those are some nice crisp castings. I'll bet it will make up into a beautiful model.


Country: USA | Posts: 31317 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 03/02/2010 :  10:57:13 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Ensign

Pete since I know you are really informative regarding ships, I am not crazy about the hull colour in the photos, was this colour typically used on these ships? I would prefer to use black, any help you can give me on this matter would be great.

Greg



Greg,

A "ship expert" I am not. That said, I do follow the Lakes pretty closely. The fog has just lifted and the bay is serene... but I digress.

"Red Lead" was used for decades to prevent rust on hulls. Many of the ore boats still plying the lakes are this color to this day, although the paint formulae have probably changed. While I have no idea about the accuracy of the Sylvan color, I'd say there is a precedent for it and you probably won't go wrong with it. I'll also note that Sylvan owner and Forum member Clare (Jimmytruck) Gilbert does pretty good research and probably has good reasons for his recommended colors.

You might photocopy, in black and white, a picture of the ship itself, then photocopy a couple of good-sized color swatches, using the same light settings on the copier. Compare the two and see what looks closest. And if in doubt, Remember Rule One!

HTH,

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 6731 Go to Top of Page

railmus
Fireman



Posted - 03/02/2010 :  11:24:18 AM  Show Profile  Visit railmus's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I have known Clare for a long time. A great guy and can talk your ear off as he is so knowledgeable. He used to work on Great Lakes ships and did most of his modelling there.
Kits like these are a labour of love for him. I would go with all of his recommendations.

P.S. I bought the very first kit off his first production line! - a trackside shed I think.

Greg, I will be watching the build closely as will Clare, I am sure.



Edited by - railmus on 03/02/2010 11:26:20 AM

Country: Canada | Posts: 1974 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 03/02/2010 :  1:02:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey guys, thanks for your comments. Pete, thanks for explaining the red lead paint. I grew up near the Welland Canal and also remember seeing this colour on many a ship. I guess wooden hull ships were treated the same way as a steel hull. John I too know Clare, and yes I find him very knowledgeable about the history of his products. I will probably go with the colour he suggests. Thanks again everyone for your ideas.

[Land Lubber}
Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8345 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 03/02/2010 :  3:50:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by railmus

I have known Clare for a long time. A great guy and can talk your ear off as he is so knowledgeable. He used to work on Great Lakes ships and did most of his modelling there.
Kits like these are a labour of love for him. I would go with all of his recommendations.



I probably should have mentioned that I've known Clare for more years than either of us wants to remember....

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 6731 Go to Top of Page

UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 03/02/2010 :  4:09:47 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
This will be an interesting thread to follow Greg, I look forward to your progress.

Karl.A



Country: USA | Posts: 6276 Go to Top of Page

Frederic Testard
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 03/02/2010 :  5:06:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very interesting project, Greg. The finished boat should be a nice model!



Country: France | Posts: 17652 Go to Top of Page

jimmytruck
Section Hand

Posted - 03/02/2010 :  8:40:36 PM  Show Profile  Visit jimmytruck's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Greg,

I'm really looking forward to watching you build the Langell Boys. You do great work and I know you will do her justice. As for the colour. In my research I discovered that she was known as the "Red Barn" during her sailing days. Second guessing what shade of red she might have been I painted the hull with Delta Ceramcoat Marroon from Michael's Crafts. I didn't feel she would have been painted a bright red and I liked the maroon. Shortly before the kit went into production I had a conversation with Pat Labadie, the former curator of the US Army marine museum at Canal Park in Duluth. He mentioned that he had found the paint formula for her during some of his research and that his wife had painted a mural of her for another museum in Minnesota. He would forward a photocopy of her mural. I couldn't believe it when I got the copy. It was EXACTLY the colour I had painted my model.

Wooden boats were often painted fairly bright colours. Much more so than the rather drab black or red oxide that is seen today.

Pete,

As for painting a ship red lead. That is really the OLD and now forbidden primer. One of the main reasons that US lake boats are painted red oxide is that when you load ore and it invariably spills on deck it doesn't leave stains after the deck is hosed down and the boat still looks clean. The same reason Huron Cement boats are grey.



Country: Canada | Posts: 92 Go to Top of Page

jimmytruck
Section Hand

Posted - 03/02/2010 :  8:57:08 PM  Show Profile  Visit jimmytruck's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I would like to add that in the past year I have met two interesting people connected with the Langell Boys. The first was a teenager from near Marine City who is a scuba diver and interested in Great Lakes history. He just informed me a couple weeks ago that the hull he and some diving friends had discovered last year in Saginaw Bay has been identified as the Langell Boys. Unfortunately somebody beat them to the wreck and stole all the valuable items off her.

The second person is a retired gentleman from Lansing whose father sailed on her for one season, in 1918. He has been collecting information on her and allowed me to borrow his files to read. Some fascinating stories and photos that I had not seen.

Clare



Country: Canada | Posts: 92 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 03/02/2010 :  11:01:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi everyone, thanks again for taking the time to check out this build. Clare, I'm so glad you have added this additional info, they called her the "Red Barn" eh. I was doing some research tonight, and came across a business that is selling artifacts from Langell Boys. Her steam whistle and a bunch of other stuff.I also found some photo's of her loaded with lumber and frozen in ice. Perhaps Clare you might like to share some of the stories you have learned of this ships past during my build. I would love to hear them as would others I'm sure. I must compliment you Clare on the quality of the castings, lots of detail and little flash. I will begin the build tonight by drilling out the openings in the hull, for fairleads, anchor hawse pipes and anchor stowage.





At first I was drilling the holes using a hand drill, some of the holes require drilling multiple holes.





Once I got a feel for this I switched to using my cordless drill, It was much faster.I used a small file to smooth the holes out.








When finished the bow this is how things looked





Next I turned my attention to the stern.





I did these the same way, I also rest the hull on some foam so I don't mark the hull up as I work on it.





The stern drainage slot requires you to drill several holes and carefully file out the space between them. It ends up looking like this.





Next I had to drill 10 3/32 holes, evenly spaced, on each side of the hull, 1/2" apart, just above the lower rubbing strake to create the scupper drains. I used a pencil to mark the spot where I would drill these holes.





when this was complete, this is how it looked.





That's it for now, I'm off tomorrow to find some paint. Thanks for checking in!

Greg



Country: Canada | Posts: 8345 Go to Top of Page

UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 03/02/2010 :  11:14:34 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
It looks like great progress Greg, from the outside looking in ..... it could be interpreted as alot of tedious work, but, I'm sure that while you are working on it the time 'vanishes' and your attention is held with each step and perfecting each hole. This is going to be an outstanding model, I can already tell by your pragmatic approach to these preliminary steps.

Karl.A

(I always wanted to be a deep sea diver when I was a kid, discovering wrecks, strange marine life..... Jacques Cousteau is a name I remember well from my early childhood)



Country: USA | Posts: 6276 Go to Top of Page
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