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Author Previous Topic: Airbrush Booth Size ? Topic Next Topic: SWSM Essentials build--by a Newbie
Page: of 37

onl26
Fireman

Posted - 08/02/2010 :  12:32:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey KP
I'll never be able to keep up with your volume of info!! It will be a good balance though. I very much like the color and texture of the siding your "toying with". In regards to the laser cut stud walls I love the fact that I don't have to build them up from sticks but I know what you mean. I am really going to simplify the coloring of the stud walls and not color them at all since they won't show very much at all. The roof will not be removable, there is no interior detail and there will be view blocks in the interior I think that will be fine. If there are a few spots with cracked or broken boards where studs show I'll color them as needed.
Kevin



Country: USA | Posts: 1283 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/02/2010 :  12:43:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sounds like a plan Kevin.

I'll also try to keep my comments shorter. I know folks would rather see pictures than read text.


--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 4673 Go to Top of Page

UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 08/02/2010 :  4:51:18 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Type away Kris, I already picked up a thing or two from your posts. Thanks.

Karl.A



Country: USA | Posts: 5427 Go to Top of Page

onl26
Fireman

Posted - 08/02/2010 :  6:00:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
KP, Don't you dare shorten your posts by a single letter! Everyone enjoys them and you provide a lot of info which is especially helpful to newcomers to kit building and the forum regulars as well.
KO



Country: USA | Posts: 1283 Go to Top of Page

ETinBH
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/02/2010 :  7:52:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
There is an old railroad saying that goes something like: "The number of pictures posted with a entry on a forum should be directly proportional to the amount of words in the post" Type away!


Country: USA | Posts: 4239 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/03/2010 :  10:26:06 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys for the support. I will however try to keep the comments shorter but still disclose the information for the newer folks.

Below are the ‘base’ colors for my wood palette for the siding.

The chalks used are:
- Rembrandt Raw Umber #408-5 (Per kit instructions)
- Rembrandt Raw Umber #408-7 (Per kit instructions)
- Schminchke Neutral Gray # 098075-K
- Weber Costello Alpha Color Earthtone Set – Next to darkest brown

The two Rembrandt chalks were used on all strip wood per the kit instructions with the following modifications:
- A light dusting of the neutral gray #098075-K was applied to the still wet Rembrandt chalk mix base colored stripwood and was then washed with additional mineral spirits. The outcome is on boards 1 thru 7 counting from right.
- A light dusting of the dark brown was added to the Rembrandt chalk mix in boards 8 thru 11 counting from right.
-All remaining boards had only the Rembrandt mix applied.

Once the secondary stains are applied and the wood is further detailed, I think (hope) that the end product will be what I’m after.

If you do not have the kit, see the following link for a video clip on Brett's web site on how to apply the chalks to the stripwood.
http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/video/video.shtml



--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 08/03/2010 10:30:04 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 4673 Go to Top of Page

onl26
Fireman

Posted - 08/03/2010 :  3:08:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey KP
Like your coloring so far. I had not seen Bretts video before. I do a few things differently but it all basically comes out the same. I still use a rasor saw (finest tooth) first but don't draw the saw straight down the stripwood. I do one strip at a time and kind of wiggle the saw as I pass it down the piece of wood. Next I use the stiff bristle brush but not with a very heavy hand. I draw each piece of wood through a piece of 320 grit paper which removes a lot of fuzz and lessens the rasor saw marks slightly. Next is using the #11 blade to make some cracks and splits. Next drill or punch some knotholes and do some banding effects. Now I line up the stripwood and use Bretts exact method for applying them but I use alcohol (dries faster) and I use a circular motion to blend in the chalks. Lastly I dry 3 or 4 pieces at a time with a hairdryer. Time to go do some of my siding!
Kevin



Country: USA | Posts: 1283 Go to Top of Page

onl26
Fireman

Posted - 08/03/2010 :  7:12:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey guys
Just a little experimenting with the siding. I used Rembrandt black then just a little white brushing it in with alcohol. Touched up the nail holes with some PH Martin Vandyke brown & alcohol and also used some regular A&I on the ends. I use a fine #0 brush and go over some of the fine cracks with different inks. The results look much better to the naked eye. I need to build a new setup for my lights so I tried to get some pics with sun coming thru the window but no good. I know they don't go here but here are the last of the tool shed details as well. Well the good news is that with the big attic fan going and a small one right behind me it is quite comfortable to work up there.
Has anyone climbed Mt. Washington? Dee Dee and I are making the climb this Saturday so hopefully we have decent weather and our old joints hold up.
Kevin
















Country: USA | Posts: 1283 Go to Top of Page

UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 08/03/2010 :  7:41:15 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Typing 'on the fly' as I head out but , the details are fantastic especially the wood colouring I love it. Lighting..... I recently replaced my two overdesk bulbs with 150w daylight bulbs. makes it a little warm as they are fairly close by and my A/C is not working, however I find the photos much more true to what I see with alot less colour correction needed.

Type later, pup needs a run and I need a beer or three.....


Karl.A



Country: USA | Posts: 5427 Go to Top of Page

Bbags
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/03/2010 :  9:09:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris wrote
"Thanks guys for the support. I will however try to keep the comments shorter but still disclose the information for the newer folks."

Not sure if just the newer folks will be the only ones to benefit from what is being posted in this thread and others.

While I consider myself a step above a novice modeler I am gaining some very valuable information each day that I will hopefully put to use in the future.
So please keep on posting all this information for the benefit of us not so newer folks who also are learning a lot.



John Bagley
Modeling the Alaska Railroad in HO in Wildwood Georgia.

Country: USA | Posts: 13050 Go to Top of Page

silveradonorthern
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 08/03/2010 :  9:49:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Kris,

Here is a suggestion for coloring the exterior siding. Try PH Martin's Bombay Brown mixed first in a small amount of water then added to alcohol. I like to use denatured but rubbing alcohol works fine. The brown thinned down will have a orange tinge to it. Play around with the ink to alcohol ratio until you get something close to the orange/brown color in your reference picture. Then use chalks to add additional shades. I use a razor blade to scrape the chalk right on to the wood then a stiff brush to move it around leaving some spots of heavier color.

To get a bit of sheen to the black areas you might try thinned down shellac applied with a small brush. I've not tried this but I think it might work. Experimentation would be the key

Just my .02 cents Hope it is of some help.


Michael

Country: USA | Posts: 614 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/04/2010 :  01:43:09 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Mike for the input. You are kind of going where I am, except that I'm using some old PH Martin's #5 orange "Synchromatic Transparent Water Color" as the base. I'll have to also look for a new base, probably Martin's acrylic in orange or your suggestion as I'm down to about 1/2 bottle of the water color. It's that 'sheen' that has me going nuts. I thought of various toppings like the shellac, but I don't want to be trying to apply it to all of the various 'black' colorings as an additional coat. I also need something which I can control the graduation of the 'sheen' as the sheen becomes stronger the blacker the wood gets. I was hoping that Troels Kirk could make some sort of suggestion from his fine art experience, but nothing so far.

It sounds like there are others beside myself who are looking for a way to recreate this weathering/coloring. I have not found anything on the military forums for this, but it is probably out there somewhere as those guys are amazing in what they do. Like Kevin, I'm planning on some more practice on this a bit later, but if anyone see's anything or has any other ideas please, please voice them.

Mr. "B"... Thank you for the kind words. They mean a lot.

Kevin, the wood is looking great, but it's those 'wood' castings which really got me going. Can you do a quick review on how you obtained the great wood look? It's outstanding!! Thanks in advance, and it looks like I'll be redoing my castings. But now I've lost that great 'resin smell’ for this new painting session....


--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 4673 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/04/2010 :  02:48:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Guys.. Getting into bed the 'light went off' and I think I may have an answer to the riddle of the 'orange-brown to black siding'. I need to test however, and I'll try to do that in the next couple of days. In a word... 'Creosote'... and a 4 step process.

--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 4673 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/04/2010 :  11:02:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The left wall with the siding detailed and applied. Provides a better idea of where I'm going with this coloring and build look.

I'm not liking the rusting nails (middle of picture) so stopping for the moment to review nail holes and ideas.

Kevin, you noted using the van dyke brown for nail holes. Are you doing a wash on the board or applying it with a pin or small brush? I can see the knot holes in you picture which look like they were treated with the van dyke brown, but I cannot see the nail holes.

And yes... I did screw up. I went and set up the left side with a trap board, then noted that Brett was putting the traps on the long sides, so I just went back a cut down the board. Don't ask me as I really have NO clue as to what I was thinking!



--KP
Life is to short to make all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 08/04/2010 11:08:09 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 4673 Go to Top of Page

Frederic Testard
Engineer



Posted - 08/04/2010 :  5:31:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I really like this wall, Kris. All your work on color and texture leads you to this nice achievement.
Personnally, I add a tiny amount of paint with a pin in a previously made nail hole and use a thin brush to draw the paint towards the bottom. If there's too much paint, I usually wipe with my finger. Since I use oil paints for this kind of work, it's very easy to control the amount of colour you get.


Frederic Testard

Country: France | Posts: 16438 Go to Top of Page
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