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Neil M
Fireman
   
Premium Member
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Posted - 08/19/2009 : 10:40:43 AM
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I like your liftout. I'm sure you'll get it to work without flexing.
Could you just glue a sheet of plywood over the bottom of the bridge, between the two sides to stop it?
The hardboard/masonite you used for the sides is not very stiff but plywood over the bottom should stiffen it because the bottom of the liftout is arched rather than flat.
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| Built a waterfront HO layout in Ireland http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22161 but now making a start in On30 in Australia |
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Country: Australia
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
Premium Member

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Posted - 08/20/2009 : 2:03:21 PM
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Thank you, Frederic, all I was trying to do was to give me an extra 3" of clearence for when I duck under. It did come out looking pretty good though 
Neil, the liftout itself is very stiff, I can not twist it. The problem is that it is offset so much from the center line that the whole liftout wants to flip out though the doorway. I think that I have tamed it somewhat with the latest modification--pics later
On anther front, I am having issues with the springs for the bumpers. I bought some #1 springs from ACE Hardware and they are the right size but are way too strong when depressed.
Pics and info later on this also, either tonight or tomorrow.
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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
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mabloodhound
Fireman
   

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Posted - 08/20/2009 : 3:32:39 PM
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Phil, The springs you have, could you cut them in half and then stretch them out to the length you need? This would give you a weaker spring.
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Dave Mason D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30 “Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.”~Benjamin Franklin The 2nd Amendment, America’s 1st Homeland Security
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Country: USA
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
Premium Member

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Posted - 08/22/2009 : 02:09:35 AM
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Well, Here, we have the end of the saga of the liftout, all problems solved.
But first a reply for Dave, The springs are just too stiff, wouldn't stretch evenly, see rest of post for solution.
Here are pics with commentary:
Tom,(Mainframer) had suggested using a slide bolt to hold up the end and after buying some I decided that trying to cut the hole for the bolt was more than I really wanted to do, so---

I made a block to hold or force the outside edge up a little. This has stopped the twisting /torque of the liftout. So on to the bumpers....

Here are all of the parts of the bumpers

Mounted in the jig and soldered

Here one is test fitted to see if it would stop a car

The springs tested: Left: the #1 from ACE Hardware next, the first ball point pen spring(too short), next is the best ball pen a little short, and on the right #3 stretched. I found out that if I just stretched them they would contract back when compressed but if I gave them a twist while stretching they don't.

The two installed on the short end

And here I am checking if there is electrical continuity thru the bumpers and the contact pad on the liftout. I used an AA battery and one of my 1.5v mini bulbs and as you can see it lit up so it works.

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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
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mabloodhound
Fireman
   

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Posted - 08/23/2009 : 12:35:19 PM
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Phil, I posted some info under the 'Logo help needed' thread for this.


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Dave Mason D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30 “Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.”~Benjamin Franklin The 2nd Amendment, America’s 1st Homeland Security
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Country: USA
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
Premium Member

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Posted - 08/23/2009 : 3:24:50 PM
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Dave, Thanks, I'll check it out.
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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
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ak-milw
Engine Wiper
 

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Posted - 08/27/2009 : 10:49:49 PM
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Phil, I really like the collapsible bumper pins. Great idea and great job building them!1

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| Andy Kramer -- Modeling the Milwaukee Road in Wisconsin |
Edited by - ak-milw on 08/27/2009 10:51:36 PM |
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Country: USA
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Neil M
Fireman
   
Premium Member
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
Premium Member

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Posted - 08/28/2009 : 9:47:31 PM
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Andy, Thanks, Yes, they work great, but if I was doing them again I would use the next size down for the plunger and then solder some rings on as getting these to slide easily was a lot of work.
Neil, Thanks, also.
Here is a pic of the wider end bumpers. There is a pad of cork on top of the key to give me something to compress against

Well, I've been moving on now that the liftout is done. I have started making the turnouts on the Fast Track jig. I have made 3 so far, the last one took me 1 1/2 hr to make (from start of filing to the removal from the jig). Here is a pic of the first one.

You noticed that there is no throwbar, that's because I have another "brillant" idea  I want to try.
Later
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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
Premium Member

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Posted - 08/31/2009 : 4:38:39 PM
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Dave Mason, regarding you post concerning my logo. I have been playing around and have come up with this:
 This is Plantagenent Cherokee with extra space between letters.
To: Mike C or whoever handles the attaching of logos if you can tell me where to post a smaller pic of this so you can stick it for me I would appreciate it. Thanks,
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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
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mabloodhound
Fireman
   

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Posted - 08/31/2009 : 5:21:09 PM
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Phil, That looks real good, just like you had planned. Did you end up using MS Word? Mike has taken some time off from doing the avatars so you need to post a note and the photo to Joe under the 'Admin" section and he will put up your new avatar.
 
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Dave Mason D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30 “Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.”~Benjamin Franklin The 2nd Amendment, America’s 1st Homeland Security
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Country: USA
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
Premium Member

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Posted - 08/31/2009 : 10:38:09 PM
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Dave, Thanks, I'll do that. Yes, I used MS Word's Wordart. I had to get their Office program but I see that it will be useful so not a lost. The only thing is that I would prefer that the center line went thru the C & the K instead of under them but the smaller it gets it not so noticable. Couldn't figure that trick out, maybe later. Off to work, now,
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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
Premium Member

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Posted - 10/09/2009 : 3:41:25 PM
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Hi, all, Nothing new on the layout itself but some work done to my work desk. This is a student desk from K-Mart that I bought in '05 for$30.00. It is laminated particale board. As you can see from the first pic that there is a lot of empty space above the self, so I thought that I would make some drawers to fit. I had some 14" drawer guides laying around that fit perfectly. I made the drawers out of some 1/2" MDF board I had laying around. So the pics:




The inside dimensions of the drawers are 12.5" wide by 13.5" deep the sides are 3" high with 4.5" height clearence. There is 5.75" above the self and 9.5" above the bottom. That's it for now, still working on the turnout issue.
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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 948 |
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Carrie Creek
Crew Chief
  
Premium Member

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Posted - 10/11/2009 : 9:36:54 PM
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I thought that I would try a little background attempt so here is what I did. Had this piece of blue construction paper so taped it to the wall and got out my pastels. Oh, no, not the right colours , oh, well, try anyway. so here's a pic. This section will give me the most problems in pulling off something that will look good.

This was taken with the spots turned down and no flash. Just a crude attempt to see if my head is going the right way. The creek has to bend around the hill and come out past Tossi Stone. Later, got to go to work,
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Phil POR (press on regardless) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 948 |
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Mainframer
Engine Wiper
 
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Posted - 10/12/2009 : 1:44:50 PM
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Phil, as I said last night, your work bench drawers came out nice. Much better use of the space. Now about your "art work", I think you got your head going the wrong way. Ha Ha. I know, it is just a shot to see how it would look. I know my art work would not be displayable. Tom
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Country: USA
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